DC-Coupled B1 Buffer Build

toxteth ogrady · « **Reply #40 on:** 2 Jan 2011, 01:56 am »

Go to the thread in question and find the member Teabag. Send him a pm and he'll give you payment instructions.

TimS · « **Reply #41 on:** 2 Jan 2011, 08:56 am »

PM sent.

Quote from: Bemopti123 on 2 Jan 2011, 01:50 am

I have a simple but stupid question, how do I sign up for that GB at DIY? I am a member but I am unaware of the logistics of GB.

bigaudioscotto · « **Reply #42 on:** 11 Apr 2011, 08:17 pm »

Can you guys estimate the parts cost for dcb1 build.

walkern · « **Reply #43 on:** 12 Apr 2011, 11:12 pm »

With the parts listed in the BOM, a basic chassis and knobs and such, no frills RCA, IEC and speaker connectors, standard sorts of internal wiring and switching, I believe you could come in around $175. And you could easily triple that if you wanted exotic parts, audio jewelry quality chassis and connectors, etc. IMHO the design is certainly of such a high quality that spending extra to get the best parts will yield sonic benefits well worth the extra $ spent. That said, I have been thrilled with my no frills unit.

Neil

wushuliu · « **Reply #44 on:** 12 Apr 2011, 11:50 pm »

Thanks Neil. I think i told scott ~$80 to populate the board itself, but the rest does add up!

why can't we live in a world without enclosures, with wires hanging freely and high voltages exposed to the air... sure would be a lot cheaper.

*sigh*

dave_c · « **Reply #45 on:** 21 Apr 2011, 12:20 am »

Just ordered a mesmerize kit. Is this also hot roddable?

wushuliu · « **Reply #46 on:** 21 Apr 2011, 12:27 am »

Quote from: dave_c on 21 Apr 2011, 12:20 am

Just ordered a mesmerize kit. Is this also hot roddable?

Yes...

dave_c · « **Reply #47 on:** 21 Apr 2011, 07:50 pm »

cool, is it done the same way? Modify the pertinent resistor values?

wushuliu · « **Reply #48 on:** 21 Apr 2011, 08:12 pm »

Yes, the only functional difference w/ Mez board from the regular board is the number of signal input/outputs.

dave_c · « **Reply #49 on:** 22 Apr 2011, 01:46 am »

Excellent! Thanks so much for the help!

Nick77 · « **Reply #50 on:** 2 Dec 2011, 12:47 am »

Just wanted to post in appreciation of Wushuliu's time and effort in posting the tutorials of the B1 builds.
Ive been dragging my feet for months with the DCB1 build, because i built and dialed in the B1 buffer with TX2575 resistors and Sonicaps with teflon bypass. The B1 is an excellent preamp and has served me well, but the DCB1 is on another level.
I just got it it installed into a Hammond case using premium parts in the build.
Naked Vishay TX2575 220r resistors
Caddock MK132 1m resistor
Caddock TF020 220k resistors
Mundorf AG Audio caps
Antek 100va Transformer
Hotrodded version currently 200mA

The DCB1 has a huge soundstage and low level detail is amazing, i am listening at lower volumes because of the increased resolution. This is a very special build, thanks to Salas and Teabag for the design. Thanks to Anand for answering all my pm's.

Big thanks to Wush because i would not have attempted either build without your tutorial's.

S Clark · « **Reply #51 on:** 2 Dec 2011, 02:19 am »

Congrats, Keith. It looks like a very nicely done project. Next time I'm in the Austin area, I'd like to hear it. Perhaps even bring along a Dodd buffer to do a little A/B.

Scott

toxteth ogrady · « **Reply #52 on:** 2 Dec 2011, 02:24 am »

Well done! I agree that Wushuliu deserves a big thanks for this thread, I wouldn't have built mine without it either. The DCB1 and Uriah's Lighter Note kit were big game changers for me.

poseidonsvoice · « **Reply #53 on:** 2 Dec 2011, 03:36 am »

Good work Keith, now you can wade in sonic nirvana.

I would also like to see a DCB1 versus Dodd tube buffer comparison as well.

Anand.

wushuliu · « **Reply #54 on:** 2 Dec 2011, 05:40 pm »

squalor · « **Reply #55 on:** 8 Dec 2011, 04:42 pm »

I want to build one of these. I have a LM3886 based chip amp, the MyRef revC design and don't want to spend money for nicer input caps. I want to remove my basic input caps and go DC-coupled.
I'm new to electronics and there is much I do not understand. Does the DCB1 eliminate DC at it's output ? I plan to have my only input be a Toslink to a DAC, then to a LightSpeed or other volume control and into the DCB1. Can a LightSpeed be better than software volume on a DAC (ES9018) ? Can the DCB1 be used as a headphone amp ? How much gain can a DCB1 (Hotrodded) provide ? What high-quality transformer for the HotRod (600mA ~ 2A) version ?

walkern · « **Reply #56 on:** 8 Dec 2011, 05:30 pm »

Quote from: squalor on 8 Dec 2011, 04:42 pm

I want to build one of these. I have a LM3886 based chip amp, the MyRef revC design and don't want to spend money for nicer input caps. I want to remove my basic input caps and go DC-coupled.
I'm new to electronics and there is much I do not understand. Does the DCB1 eliminate DC at it's output ? I plan to have my only input be a Toslink to a DAC, then to a LightSpeed or other volume control and into the DCB1. Can a LightSpeed be better than software volume on a DAC (ES9018) ? Can the DCB1 be used as a headphone amp ? How much gain can a DCB1 (Hotrodded) provide ? What high-quality transformer for the HotRod (600mA ~ 2A) version ?

The DC-B1 is DC coupled, and as such does not block DC from coming in or passing through it. I've tried a Lightspeed based volume control with a DC-B1 and it is a very nice combo, but I can't say if it is better than a software based control. Since the B1 is a buffer, and does not amplify the incoming signal (only attenuates it), it may or may not work well as a headphone 'amp'. It would depend on the output characteristics of your source, and the input characteristics of your headphones. And if you read back a few posts you'll see the recommendation for a transformer for the Hot Rodded version.

Neil

squalor · « **Reply #57 on:** 8 Dec 2011, 08:08 pm »

Thanx for the fast response.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102700&filterName=Brand&filterValue=RadioShack
Would this be the one ? Looks like it's time for me to read some BIG threads and see what I can find. Thank you for posting this in a circle. Sometimes it seems that if you post over there without meeting the minimum intelligence requirements you get served up.

Nick77 · « **Reply #58 on:** 8 Dec 2011, 08:26 pm »

Its recomended for the hotrod version you use either a 50va or 100va transformer. Antek is now making a shielded version.
http://www.antekinc.com/details.php?p=644
http://www.antekinc.com/details.php?p=660

Fredly · « **Reply #59 on:** 23 Feb 2012, 04:14 pm »

Hello Folks, I recently received a fully stocked Mezmerize Board and plan to put everything together in a case this weekend, however I have a few questions that I know you good people can easily answer.

Wiring the Antek transformer to 110V

I have 2 Black and 2 Red wires to connect to the 110V IEC, so do both pairs need to be connected, or just one. Does it matter which wires are connected where? No ground wire is used?

Powering the Mezmerize Board with the Antek Tran 12V

Again, I have 2 Green and 2 Blue wires coming out of the transformer, how exactly do these connect to the Mesmerize Board?

Selector Switch to inputs on Mezmerize Board

Included in the bundle, was an Alpha 7M4 Selector Switch. I understand this Selector Switch connects to the boards Selector Pins and Ground, but again I am confused how this is to be wired. Any assistance/explanation as exactly how this is done would be greatly appreciated as I’m a bit/very confused.

I believe the rest is pretty straight forward, and don’t foresee any issues, however I do have a few questions, that I wouldn’t mind getting answered.

Is the Selector Switch actually in the signal path, or on the Mezmerize board is it purpose simply to engage the correct relay/input. Curious?

I plan to run an output for a Sub, in addition to an out to the Amp. No problems in doing this? And is as easy as taping a second set of RCAs of the first set of outputs?

I think that’s all my questions for now.

Again, I realize these are very simply questions, but want to avoid screw ups, and do it right the first time.

Thanx in advance for your input, Fred in Canada