RM30 Series II upgrade: Thickness of Blanks to Replace old 6" Passives

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monsterbill

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Howdy fellow VMPS-ers.  Much gratitude for keeping this going!

I'm about to convert my RM30Ms to the Series II, but I need to cut my own blanks to cover the cutouts from the removed 6" passive radiators. I have the old 28oz megawoofers, and I find that 1/2" board just barely squeezes under the magnet to the 28oz driver.

Here's my question: Will a 1/2" board fit under the magnet of the 40oz driver?  I hope one day to upgrade to the 40oz drivers and I don't want to glue in a board that will block the 40 oz-ers.

Thanks!

Stimpy

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So, it sounds like you have to remove the 10" side firing woofer, to start the conversion process.  So, do the original passives have to be removed from within the cabinet?  No way to remove the base of the speaker, and remove the passives, and then screw the blanks in from underneath?  It seems like that would give you more room, and the blanks wouldn't interfere with the active woofers, as such.  Or, why not just close the front facing port, in the base, to seal the cabinet.  That'd slightly change the volume of the cabinet.  But, you'd have to retune for the new 10" passive anyway...!

Good luck. 

monsterbill

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Stimpy--Ah, of course! Appreciate the help.

monsterbill

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Follow-up: Under-mount of the blanks is working out.  For looks, I put on some black edge banding tape on the part of the black that you can see in the old bottom port.  I packed in some putty in the interior to make sure the whole thing is airtight and non-resonant.

Also, the Series II mod is great upgrade.  Finally, my RM30s have some cojones. 

G E

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I am considering the Series II upgrade. Where did you get the side passive radiators?

G E

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So, it sounds like you have to remove the 10" side firing woofer, to start the conversion process.  So, do the original passives have to be removed from within the cabinet?  No way to remove the base of the speaker, and remove the passives, and then screw the blanks in from underneath?  It seems like that would give you more room, and the blanks wouldn't interfere with the active woofers, as such.  Or, why not just close the front facing port, in the base, to seal the cabinet.  That'd slightly change the volume of the cabinet.  But, you'd have to retune for the new 10" passive anyway...!

Good luck.

I am doing the Series II upgrade and had the base apart to assess best approach for plugging the old PR ports.  It would be easy enough to add a piece across the front of the frame that mounts between the base and the RM30 proper, but one would also need to add gaskets/caulk/whatever to make an airtight connection between all the sections.  I plan to just plug the ports.