[jk@home]

FYI, if anyone is interested in playing around with mass loading on top of their Crowns, I found (and purchased) a couple of these wood boxes, for not much money. They are lightweight, about a pound each, but still decent quality and nice looking. Will hold at least 10 pounds of steel shot each, even with the insert dividers. You can use the supplied Palette as a template for a solid piece of paneling to seal the contents.

Leave unfinished, or finish it to your taste ( I prefer Howard's Feed-N-Wax) Someone real arty could use a wood engraver to draw the Crown logo on the lid. 

http://www.dickblick.com/products/art-alternatives-artists-sketch-box-with-palette/

[maplegrovemusic]

Hi Guys , Just put my xls 2500 monoblocks back in my system after a couple of weeks of using the ncores. Why i do not sell the ncores is going through my mind again . I purchased a pair of 4 pole nuetrik connectors for use with my mogami wiring . I  seen someone posted a link to a nuetrik guide awhile back . I cannot figure out how to do it though . There was nothing about bi wiring stated. I hooked the wires up wrong and got a god awful noise . I assumed i needed to hook up one positive to the 1+ slot and the other positive to the 2+ slot and the same for the negative. But it is not correct . Cannot find any useful info on google . Is it even possible to biwire with nuetriks. if not can i still use the 4 pole connectors?

Any one have any answers? Thanks,mike.

[maplegrovemusic]

Those boxes look pretty spiffy . I would bet if you closed them up and drilled a hole in the top for loading the bb's you could probably get another 20% more in ?

[Occam]

Hi Guys , Just put my xls 2500 monoblocks back in my system after a couple of weeks of using the ncores. Why i do not sell the ncores is going through my mind again .

If you subjectively prefer the XLS (via the pos binding posts, no less) to the Ncore 400, I'd think you've not adequately addressed the necessity for the proper subjective choices  of internal mains, speaker and input signal wiring in its implementation.

I purchased a pair of 4 pole nuetrik connectors for use with my mogami wiring . I  seen someone posted a link to a nuetrik guide awhile back . I cannot figure out how to do it though . There was nothing about bi wiring stated. I hooked the wires up wrong and got a god awful noise . I assumed i needed to hook up one positive to the 1+ slot and the other positive to the 2+ slot and the same for the negative. But it is not correct . Cannot find any useful info on google . Is it even possible to biwire with nuetriks. if not can i still use the 4 pole connectors?

Any one have any answers? Thanks,mike.

RTFM - You are bridging, NOT Bi-amping

Bridge-Mono Mode
Bridge-Mono Mode delivers the power of both amp channels into a single 8 or
4 ohm load.
Before you get started ensure that you:
1. Connect signal source to Channel 1 only using either the XLR, ¼ Inch, or
RCA connectors.
2. Connect the speaker as shown.
a. If using the binding post outputs, connect the positive terminal of the
speaker to the positive terminal of Channel 1 and the negative terminal of
the speaker to the positive terminal of Channel 2.
b. If using a Speakon® connector, connect the positive terminal of the speaker to 1+ and the negative terminal to 2+.
Plug the connector into the Channel 1 output only.
Follow these quick steps to confi gure the amplifi er for “Bridge Mode”:
1. Hold the “Mode/Menu” button down for 3 sec until the LCD screen displays “Amp Mode <More>”.
2. Press the “Mode/Menu” button to begin confi guring the Amp Mode.
3. Press the “Next” button until the LCD screen reads “Mode: Bridge”.
4. Press the “Mode/Menu” button to confi rm your selection.
5. Now press the “Next” button until the LCD screen displays “Bypass”. Press the “Mode/Menu” button to confi rm your selection. The LCD screen should now read
“Bridge Bypass”.



EDIT: If you want to bi-wire, even bi-wire a bridged amp, simply connect on the Neutrik side, both the high and low (+) wires to the appropriate pin, and the high and low (-) wires to the appropriate Neutrik pin

[maplegrovemusic]

Looking for actual nuetrik connector schematics for bi wiring .I need to properly assemble the nuetrik connectors to my 4 wire mogami wires.When using the binding posts two are used as i am currently doing . When using the nuetriks are both channel one and two used when bridging? or is it just one connector used ?

[maplegrovemusic]

so it looks like i use just speakon number one on the crown . the only other logical way of connecting my 4 conductor mogami to the 4 pole nuetrik is to do a positive and negative wire for the lows to 1+ and 1- on the neutrik and the highs would go to 2+ and 2- . Does this sound right ? is anyone using a neutrik with 4 conductor wiring ?

[mjosef]

Not exactly sure what you are trying to do...but, there is always the Crown Application Guide to consult...see from page 10 onwards...
http://www.crownaudio.com/media/pdf/133472.pdf

[jk@home]

Those boxes look pretty spiffy . I would bet if you closed them up and drilled a hole in the top for loading the bb's you could probably get another 20% more in ?

I filled just to the top of the dividers with BBs (8 lbs) and a little sand and got a touch over 11 lbs. total.

 

so it looks like i use just speakon number one on the crown . the only other logical way of connecting my 4 conductor mogami to the 4 pole nuetrik is to do a positive and negative wire for the lows to 1+ and 1- on the neutrik and the highs would go to 2+ and 2- . Does this sound right ? is anyone using a neutrik with 4 conductor wiring ?

I'm using 4 conductor wire, but had the Speakons in the bridged config. Maybe if you are using two amps, and have bi-wire speakers, then the above scenario would work if you set each amp for "input-y" (instead of stereo), using just one input?

http://www.crownaudio.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4687
 

 

[barryso]

Just curious if anyone can compare the Crown xls amp to the TPA3116 class d amp.  My system sounds very nice with the TPA3116 but it doesn't put out enough power to handle higher volume or dynamics.

[steve f]

Barryso, I have no familiarity with the TPA amp chip. The big question is why bother?

The Crowns are good sounding, cheap, and very powerful. IMO the big advantage of Class D is that a lot of power is easily obtainable, with low distortion. There is so much efficient power available that you can drive your speakers without clipping waveforms. It can't be done with transformer coupled tubes at all. To get the same power from a Class A/AB will cost over ten times as much. I know it's tempting to say I don't need a lot of power, but once you experience a system that's clean, I'm sure you will be impressed. The sound is effortless.

If you buy the Crown, and don't like it, you can resell it at small loss, or repurpose it for subwoofers.

steve

[Mojo Warrior]

I used the Pomonas, fits perfectly. On the inside of the amp, I left out those plastic washers that comes with these posts, my buddy Rex told me to do. These are about $10 each at Mouser.

There seems to be several Pomona binding posts listed.

Can you post a link to the parts number?

[Odal3]

I asked the same question a while back on this thread, but now have both amps. I listen to both the TPA3116 and Crown XLS 2000 amps on a daily basis and I really like the sound of both. I think either amp is one of the great deals in audio - excellent performance for the money. If you like the TPA amps, you will not be disappointed moving from the 2 x 50w TPA boards to the much more powerful Crown - especially if you have hard to drive speakers and needs some more power. However, if you ask the question if the Crown is better or worse, my answer would be somewhere between I don't know, and it depends.

As the TPA3116 is a diy's dream at ~$15 - 40 per board, with multiple versions and mods out there, performance varies a lot. So to give you a point of reference here are two comparisons using stock boards: a stock version of a Sure TPA3110 board using laptop brick sounds a bit harsh and digital, and the Crown easily beats it. A stock TPA 3116 audiobah board (the green one) with an Astron power supply on the other hand is a different story. In my system and my "non-audiophile" ears, I find that I prefer the TPA3116 board from high mids and up (but not by much since the HF on the Crown is really good too), while the Crown gets the upper hand on mids and down and especially on the control and authority of the bass, which shouldn't come as a surprise with several hundred more Watts to cover peaks. So to me it's not matter of one over the other - I like both and each shine and have strengths depending on the system and preferred volume level...which have lead to that I'm constantly rotating them in and out. At the moment I use the TPA3116 for the top and the crown for the bottom.

If you can't find a used one, many of the larger music store chains (guitar center, etc.) have great return policies, so you should just try one out and let us know how you like it.

I'd also be curious to hear Sallis thougts on the Crown (modded and stock) vs his modded TDA7297 vs a more tricked out TPA3116.

[Folsom]

I had a TPA3116 with Elna Silmic II caps, Blackgate N input caps (all 4), and a nice PSU that made a substantial difference like the caps. Another one I put into a little box for a ceramic studio with some speakers that were free. My understanding is OSCON's on the 3116 might bring the detail around to be comparable to the XLS; prior to, even with good caps, I didn't get the detail when I gave an XLS a few tracks.

Overall I don't think the TPA3116 is nearly as good. But we're talking about a much less powerful amplifier so it doesn't necessarily matter to anyone. My TPA3116 sounded good, but it just didn't have the authority, the feeling of force. It lacked life for me. The character of the music wasn't as prevalent. It performs well, measures well, etc, but wasn't an amp I knew I could indefinitely feel a form of satisfaction with.

[barryso]

Thanks for the replies, it really helps.

The TPA3116 I'm using is a bone stock blue/black board.  It was considered one of the better sounding stock boards until the green and Sure boards were released.  Ran it with a small laptop brick at first and it was OK sounding and then upgraded to a brick that put out far more amperage.  The additional amperage cleaned up the sound nicely.

Odal3, your Astron power supply with the green board is probably even better yet.  You're probably getting better mids and highs than my rig so that gives me a reasonable idea of where the Crown stands.   Sounds like the it would be a pretty good fit.

The authority improvement that Salis Audio mentioned with the Crown is probably the main motivation for an upgrade.  A bit more control of the woofers and an increase in dynamics would make a huge difference.

Many thanks for the descriptions and the help.

[OzarkTom]

The Crown amp has responded very well with every tweak that I have made. What was a forward sounding amp has now become a more laid back amp. With the cost of the used amp and all the mods, it still cost me less than $500.

[jk@home]

There seems to be several Pomona binding posts listed.

Can you post a link to the parts number?

Pretty sure it is the 3770 series, with the Gold Plated Tellurium Copper plating. I have come to the conclusion that the speakons didn't improve the sound of my amps compared to the "craptastic" binding posts and bare wire. So I have ordered some Pomonas to mod. 3770-0 for black, 3770-2 for red.

http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/d3750-3760-3770_101.pdf

Also, has anyone replaced the steel nut and washer on the Pomonas with something else, like copper or stainless steel?

[gcos]

I am thinking of replacing the plate amp on my Velodyne DLS5000 sub with an external amp. It has a 15" woofer. Which Crown amp would you guys recommend ?

[rodge827]

I am thinking of replacing the plate amp on my Velodyne DLS5000 sub with an external amp. It has a 15" woofer. Which Crown amp would you guys recommend ?

Go with the most power you can afford!
or
Match the wattage on the plate amp to the XLS that is equivalent.

 

[Folsom]

Pretty sure it is the 3770 series, with the Gold Plated Tellurium Copper plating. I have come to the conclusion that the speakons didn't improve the sound of my amps compared to the "craptastic" binding posts and bare wire. So I have ordered some Pomonas to mod. 3770-0 for black, 3770-2 for red.

http://www.pomonaelectronics.com/pdf/d3750-3760-3770_101.pdf

Also, has anyone replaced the steel nut and washer on the Pomonas with something else, like copper or stainless steel?

McMaster Carr has copper-Nicole nuts. The amp needs a washer per post, you can get plastic ones from them, too.

I found some actual copper nuts for tattoo guns, but they're funky and may not fit.

[OzarkTom]

McMaster Carr has copper-Nicole nuts. The amp needs a washer per post, you can get plastic ones from them, too.

I found some actual copper nuts for tattoo guns, but they're funky and may not fit.

Does anyone know what size nuts those are? I went to Radio Shack today and all they could do was send me to Amazon.