The OFFICIAL Super-7 thread

Tyson · « **Reply #300 on:** 29 Jan 2018, 11:12 pm »

Don’t get me wrong, the stock parts are great! But if you are the type of person that likes to upgrade things, then the Jantzens and Jupiters are what you should look at.

SoCalWJS · « **Reply #301 on:** 30 Jan 2018, 12:21 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 8 Dec 2017, 04:22 pm

I'll take 10k for this pair plus shipping and I do have shipping creates.

Quote from: Tyson on 29 Jan 2018, 04:43 pm

If you are going to build the S7's, do yourself a favor and go straight for the Jantzen wax/paper/copper foil inductors. I also prefer the ClarityCap MRs bypassed with Jupiter copper foils. Both caps are great, but the real magic is the Jupiters, IMO. If you can afford it, just get Jupiters as your full sized caps and forgo the CarityCaps (or Sonicaps) completely. Jupiters are so good, they do not need to be bypassed, if you use them as your main caps.

Danny. Does the completed pair already have the Jupiter's?

That would be a hell of a deal......

2bigears · « **Reply #302 on:** 30 Jan 2018, 04:00 am »

3500 for standard parts , 2400 for better caps , $$ for sub boxes and baffles ,, shipping ,, am I missing something ? That's if you want the very very best of the best ? Am I correct ? I can't imagine 4 caps costing that much ? Is this right ? Please post a breakdown for all interested parties ,,please. Thanks

Captainhemo · « **Reply #303 on:** 30 Jan 2018, 04:52 am »

We're running the Clarity CMR's / CSA's and a mix of Jupiter/dueland bypass caps inthe NX-Treme networkss. The setup also has a mix of Jantzen wax/copper foils in the mid /high pass filters. It's a great signature but I think we may try some Jupiter bypasses onthe high pass cap for the tweter, not so sure we can say the duelands are a perfect match. Would have loved to have gone straight Jupiter coppers but again, the cost is hard to fathom

still far less than going say all dueland

I'm not sold onthe Jantzen's yet....I've done some direct A/B comparisons with the Gortz Alpha core foils vs the Jantzen 12 ag wax/copper foils.but that is just MHO. I didn't feel there was a big , if any , difference here except a hughe cost increase and long lead time. When I did that comparison, the inductor on the midrange was the only component I swapped, no othe rchange. Inductors both had a denent amount of hrs on them. Obviously YRMV.

jay

Ric Schultz · « **Reply #304 on:** 30 Jan 2018, 06:39 am »

All air core coils (especially good ones) need to be oriented so the signal goes into the inside of the coil and comes out the outside.....big difference. Make sure you do the same with all coils you A/B or you are not hearing what is possible. I experience the best sound by having the coils sit on a piece of cardboard. This isolates the coil from whatever is underneath and adds some damping. Those big 12 gauge coils are heavy....they are not going anywhere. You can use a tiny amount of Amazing goop underneath them and also underneath the cardboard to secure them better.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #305 on:** 30 Jan 2018, 05:18 pm »

Yeah, they are all orientated correctly. No cardboard but sitting on a nice pile of Dap

jay

orientalexpress · « **Reply #306 on:** 30 Jan 2018, 05:25 pm »

Sweet,can't wait

studiotech · « **Reply #307 on:** 30 Jan 2018, 11:51 pm »

Quote from: Ric Schultz on 30 Jan 2018, 06:39 am

All air core coils (especially good ones) need to be oriented so the signal goes into the inside of the coil and comes out the outside.....big difference.

We're talking AC signal here, not DC. There's no "going in one side and coming out the other."

Greg

mikeeastman · « **Reply #308 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 02:06 am »

I think you've got it backwards, if I put my meter on the output of my amp it's D/C.

studiotech · « **Reply #309 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 02:24 am »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 31 Jan 2018, 02:06 am

I think you've got it backwards, if I put my meter on the output of my amp it's D/C.

Whaaaat? You're pulling my leg, right?

mikeeastman · « **Reply #310 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 02:47 am »

All electronic equipment operates off D/C, it takes the A/C and converts it to D/C. How else do you explain battery powered amps they don't take D/C and covert it to A/C that would require massive transformer like the one used in off grid inverters. But hey do a quick Google and check it out.

JDUBS · « **Reply #311 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 03:04 am »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 31 Jan 2018, 02:47 am

All electronic equipment operates off D/C, it takes the A/C and converts it to D/C. How else do you explain battery powered amps they don't take D/C and covert it to A/C that would require massive transformer like the one used in off grid inverters. But hey do a quick Google and check it out.

This is incorrect. My lenco turntable had an AC motor.

-Jim

Ric Schultz · « **Reply #312 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 03:24 am »

Quote from: studiotech on 30 Jan 2018, 11:51 pm

We're talking AC signal here, not DC. There's no "going in one side and coming out the other."

Greg

There are things in audio that can be heard to be different but the audible difference is not measureable. All wires sound different....and all wires sound different depending on which direction you orient them......this cannot be measured but can be heard......same with "coil directionality". In fact, there are way more things that cannot be measured that make a difference than those that can be measured. However, in order to know this, you have to have an open inquisitive mind and be willing to do very tweaky controlled listening experiments (not blind A/Bs or double blind.....these tests are for those that don't believe in differences)

mikeeastman · « **Reply #313 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 03:34 am »

JUBS, Thats true, but all the electronic circuits are still D/C and studiotech was talking about the output of a amp into a speaker which is always D/C.

HAL · « **Reply #314 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 03:45 am »

The output of an amplifier driven by DC power is an AC signal. DC would only push the speaker cone to one position and then back when turned off like a square wave. Not very good to listen to. You may see a small DC offset on the output, but put the meter in AC mode and play something and you will get an AC signal.

Music signals very with time and that is the definition of an AC signal.

If you would like a demonstration, put an AC coupling cap at the output of the amp. This will block all DC and you will still hear music when it is played though the speaker.

mikeeastman · « **Reply #315 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 04:04 am »

Hal, your right, how does a battery powered amp work? Does it convert to D/C to A/C at some point? So A/C amps take the A/C convert it to D/C for the circuits than converts the D/C back to A/C for the output signal?

S Clark · « **Reply #316 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 04:06 am »

There's a great story about Harvey "Gizmo" Rosenberg running a 60 hz signal to his Moscode 300 amp, hooking a blender up to the outputs,... and then proceeded to make margaritas for his audience. Amplifier outputs are AC.

HAL · « **Reply #317 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 04:24 am »

Quote from: mikeeastman on 31 Jan 2018, 04:04 am

Hal, your right, how does a battery powered amp work? Does it convert to D/C to A/C at some point? So A/C amps take the A/C convert it to D/C for the circuits than converts the D/C back to A/C for the output signal?

A battery amp bypasses the AC to DC conversion step of a power supply and uses the battery DC directly.

Think of an amp as a copy machine that makes a bigger copy of the input by modulating the DC power supply in the output stage with the input signal. DC is turned into AC.

Scott's example is a perfect one. Same idea used by PS Audio for the Power Plant series of AC power regenerators.

mikeeastman · « **Reply #318 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 02:41 pm »

Thanks Hal for the info, cleared up my misunderstanding on that

Thank you studiotech for bring it up so that could happen.

HAL · « **Reply #319 on:** 31 Jan 2018, 02:58 pm »

Glad to help!