[mlundy57]

Those of you who have used DuraTex, do I need to seal and/or prime the MDF first or can the DuraTex be applied right after final sanding?

Thanks

Mike

[Outofthewoods]

Hey Mike,

Check this video out:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuav56tGIE4  The guy in the video created the stuff.

There are several how-to videos on his YouTube channel.

Ruben

[Early B.]

I used Duratex recently on my sub cabinet from Ruben. No sealing or priming necessary. It's thick stuff. You'll need to apply two or three coats and you're done. Easy.

[cody69]

Agree, no need to prime or seal. Used it on some LGKs... Couple of coats as Early mentions and you're done. Check the web as there are bunch of YouTube vids.

[mlundy57]

Thanks all. Ruben, I checked out the video. It doesn't look difficult.  He says it takes days for the DuraTex to cure.  Any idea how long before they can be loaded in a van and moved?

Mike

[Outofthewoods]

Thanks all. Ruben, I checked out the video. It doesn't look difficult.  He says it takes days for the DuraTex to cure.  Any idea how long before they can be loaded in a van and moved?

Mike

Tips and Tricks:  http://www.acrytech.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Applying-DuraTex.pdf

I'd just see how it feels before loading up. If it seems soft I'd wrap the subs with fleece and use padding/pillows on all pressure points. You can pick up anti pill fleece at Walmart for around $3.00 per yard.

Worst case scenario, you'd need to re-coat any problem areas when you got them back home. I doubt you'll have any issues though. Just get them coated as soon as you can.

How are the subs coming along?

Thanks,

Ruben

[mlundy57]

Ruben,

One of the H-Frames is built except for the bottom which I will attach in the morning. The second one has the second side clamped up and drying. I'll get the top and bottom on it tomorrow also.

I plan on spray painting (rattle can) the insides flat black since I will be covering it with NoRez. Should have them both done and DuraTex applied by Sunday night. Won't be loading up until Wednesday evening.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Just curious Mike, how did you align everything ?  Dowels ?
As you know, I used  Dados when I built mine but  no one else seems to do that, wondering why ?

jay

[HAL]

Has anyone tried tinting Duratex?  There are now tintable versions. 

Looks like the dark tint version will do red.

[Early B.]

He says it takes days for the DuraTex to cure.  Any idea how long before they can be loaded in a van and moved?

I moved mine after a couple of hours. Once I got them in place, I noticed I missed a spot and touched it up in my den. The great thing about Duratex is that there's no strong smell.

[Outofthewoods]

Has anyone tried tinting Duratex?  There are now tintable versions. 

Looks like the dark tint version will do red.

Hey Rich,

They offer custom colors. http://store.acrytech.com/Speaker-Cabinet-Coating-DuraTex-Roller-Grade-Custom-Color.html

Ruben

[Outofthewoods]

Ruben,

One of the H-Frames is built except for the bottom which I will attach in the morning. The second one has the second side clamped up and drying. I'll get the top and bottom on it tomorrow also.

I plan on spray painting (rattle can) the insides flat black since I will be covering it with NoRez. Should have them both done and DuraTex applied by Sunday night. Won't be loading up until Wednesday evening.

Mike

Cool.

Look forward to reading your impressions on the Wedge and 3 x 8 combo. I predict sonic bliss.
 
Ruben

[HAL]

Ruben,
Thanks!

Rich

[mlundy57]

Just curious Mike, how did you align everything ?  Dowels ?
As you know, I used  Dados when I built mine but  no one else seems to do that, wondering why ?

jay

Jay,

I did it the old fashioned way: layout lines, squaring jigs to keep things square vertically, a square clamped down to keep things parallel and square horizontally, cross squaring and then the inevitable sanding when things don't end up perfectly flat and level. You can see the squaring jigs and square (has the green bubble level) on the back side of the baffle.




I have used both dowels and biscuits in the past. Dowels can be really hard to line up and biscuits didn't seem to be worth the trouble. Dados would be a lot easier but not only do I not own a dado stack, I have never used one before. A good stack is on my list though.

Mike

[rajacat]

A router cuts nice clean dadoes.

[Captainhemo]

A router cuts nice clean dadoes.

I had picked up a 3/4" straight cut bit and had intended to do mine with the router.  A buddy who  has a cabinet shop in town offered to do it with his large table saw and dado set so I went that route.  I did do some  test cuts with the  3/4" bit in the router and it did indeed make very  ncie cuts.
The dadoes really  made assembly easy

Looks like you are doing a great job with your s Mike, time consuming  gluing it up like that I bet and tough keeping it all aligned/square....  I can see  frustration  written all over  it for me  !!

jay

[rajacat]

Another way of keeping pieces aligned is to apply glue, clamp one piece in place, use a finish nail gun to hold it in place, remove clamps and then move on to the next piece. A drawback to this method is that you'll have to fill the little nail holes although if you use 18 gauge nails it shouldn't be that much of a problem.