[lacro]

It is a Panasonic FC 1800uF / 25V electrolytic cap soldered into the J8 thru-holes where the power supply is connected to Vcc. The twisted wires from the power connector are routed beneath the board and soldered to the cap and thru-holes for Vcc (+) and Ground (0V). Taterworks had tried this and so I gave it a try too and obtained the same improvements in bass response, a larger soundstage and improved tonality. This was really apparent when using this amp as a standalone integrated amp in my system. I would have preferred a 2200uF / 25V Panasonic FC/FM cap, but the height would not fit in the compact chassis.

This is a fun amp to play around with if you have the right speakers to drive. I'm ready to try a TPA3116D2 amp now. I hope some good boards become available. The Yuan Jing boards don't look like they're as well constructed as the Sure TPA3110 board. I also need to explore power supplies that work well with these amps.

Rhing,
 That looks great The context chassis look like really nice quality.
I see you didn't use the ferrite beads? Also, did you you try different brand PS caps?

[rhing]

I haven't tried the Ferrite beads yet since I don't have any RFI problems, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try them.

As for trying different brands of power supply caps, I usually use Panasonic Aluminum electrolytic caps: FM, FC, ED, TS-ED, EE, TS-EE and TS-HA. I've used them in solid state and tube amp projects and they do not impart any sonic signature. On top of that, they are very dependable like a good Honda or Toyota car. And of course, they're cheap and cheerful. I have used Nichicon caps as well, and I like them, but I usually will lean to Panasonics.

I have used Elna Silmic II caps for signal coupling and for cathode bypass caps with excellent results. I generally don't consider them for power supplies, although they might work well in the TPA31xx amps, because they do impart a certain amount of warmth if that's your preference.

I have tried Rubycon ZA/ZL in power supplies that many have raved about. To me, they are overrated. They do their job, but they impart an electronic haze to the sound.

If you study what some of the best American amp designers like Nelson Pass or John Curl use, they typically specify Panasonic and Nichicon caps.

[Mortsnets]

I'm listening to my TPA3110D2 amp made by Rhing.  It has quality parts like Vampire RCAs and Insight 12v/5a power supply and Pangea AC cord.  Powering my 90db/4ohm JM Reynaud Twin Signature speakers the sound is very good, better that my NAD 3020, Cyrus 2, T-amp, B&K ST-140 or ASL Wave 8s with those speakers.  I've been using it with the built in volume control but plan to try it as a power amp with a Bottlehead Quickie as the preamp too.  The sound quality/value ratio is pretty amazing.

[HaroldHill]

I'm curious about driving a set of low-efficiency, low-sensitivity headphones (Hifiman HE-6) with a Sure TPA3110 amp. These are orthodynamic (not conventional dynamic) headphones. I'd be driving them directly off the speaker taps. Any reason that I shouldn't try this pairing?

(About the HE-6: Nominal impedance=43 ohms. Power rating=6 W. Efficiency=77 dB1mW, 91 dB1V.)

 

[Taterworks]

I'm curious about driving a set of low-efficiency, low-sensitivity headphones (Hifiman HE-6) with a Sure TPA3110 amp. These are orthodynamic (not conventional dynamic) headphones. I'd be driving them directly off the speaker taps. Any reason that I shouldn't try this pairing?

(About the HE-6: Nominal impedance=43 ohms. Power rating=6 W. Efficiency=77 dB1mW, 91 dB1V.)

If you do this, you may need to change the wiring of your Hifiman headphones. Most headphones share a common 'ground' conductor on the 3.5mm plug, but this won't work with full-bridge class D amplifiers which supply voltage on the negative and the positive terminals. You would need to use a separate positive and negative lead wire to each driver, which is probably different from what your headphones already use.

If a common ground wire is used, one channel of your amp will try to drive current through the very low output impedance of the other channel, and this will burn the whole chip out. This is also true of most IC-based Class D amps (Tripath, ST Micro, NXP, TI, others) which are four-channel devices and run two channels in BTL configuration to obtain lower distortion and higher power on two channels of audio.

Also, if you try this, remember the ferrite beads on the outputs so you don't subject your brain to radio-frequency electromagnetic radiation.

[HaroldHill]

Thanks, Taterworks. The HE-6 are terminated in four banana connectors (so no common ground) just right for driving out of a Class D amp.

I'll definitely remember the ferrite beads on the outputs. Thanks for that pointer.

[raysracing]

I just disconnected a Virtue 1 amp with the 30V 5amp SMPS for the brand new 3116D amp without the tone controls (Red board), but has a volume pot and my SLA 12v battery. Sounds smooth so far (first mmnute of play), but I got so used to the really bright on top of the Virtue that I feel like it is missing something, but the brightness was really a bit much. Really crappy RCA's and bone stock board so far. I'll let it play all night while I sleep.  Nowhere as hissy and crisp as the same board, but with the tone controls.

On a jazz piece with brushes on snare it has a very accurate sound already without sounding overly shimmery.

[raysracing]

Just an FYI, the 3116 amps do not draw 5 amps - they use far, far less unless you are cranking high spl's/dynamic range or really want to have reserve for peak current. One owner measured only 40mA with their speakers (though full range).

Also the 3116 is usable down to 6v. Consensus elsewhere is that 12-20v is the sweet spot. I use 12v SLA batteries.

24V SLA set-up for me and I love it. Nothing special in the wire, but was thinking is there a C&C wiring for the SLA set-up that would make a difference? I am using old thin wires cut from SMPS's. Maybe build a board of capacitors to add to the amp box for the incoming DC power?

A friend stopped the other day and recommended I try one then two Optima batteries. A bit of an expensive experiment, but could be cool if it works (massive reserves for dynamics).

[rhing]

24V SLA set-up for me and I love it. Nothing special in the wire, but was thinking is there a C&C wiring for the SLA set-up that would make a difference? I am using old thin wires cut from SMPS's. Maybe build a board of capacitors to add to the amp box for the incoming DC power?

A friend stopped the other day and recommended I try one then two Optima batteries. A bit of an expensive experiment, but could be cool if it works (massive reserves for dynamics).

I have used 18AWG or 19AWG Teflon-insulated Silver-plated, stranded Copper Mil-Spec wire that you can purchase via eBay or online retailers like Apex Jr. Use different colors to differentiate "+" and "-" battery connections. Twist them as a pair, and use your favorite expandable sleeving. I use 1/4" diameter spiral-cut tubing over the twisted pairs, and then slide expandable sleeving over that to give it a more finished appearance.

[Speedskater]

"Ray'' at least Optima automobile batteries should be easy to sell in Cleveland with this incoming cold weather.

[lacro]

I haven't tried the Ferrite beads yet since I don't have any RFI problems, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try them.

As for trying different brands of power supply caps, I usually use Panasonic Aluminum electrolytic caps: FM, FC, ED, TS-ED, EE, TS-EE and TS-HA. I've used them in solid state and tube amp projects and they do not impart any sonic signature. On top of that, they are very dependable like a good Honda or Toyota car. And of course, they're cheap and cheerful. I have used Nichicon caps as well, and I like them, but I usually will lean to Panasonics.

I have used Elna Silmic II caps for signal coupling and for cathode bypass caps with excellent results. I generally don't consider them for power supplies, although they might work well in the TPA31xx amps, because they do impart a certain amount of warmth if that's your preference.

I have tried Rubycon ZA/ZL in power supplies that many have raved about. To me, they are overrated. They do their job, but they impart an electronic haze to the sound.

If you study what some of the best American amp designers like Nelson Pass or John Curl use, they typically specify Panasonic and Nichicon caps.

I replaced the power supply caps on a new TPA3110D2 amp board with Elna Silmic II caps that were mentioned as being "warm" sounding. Also, I soldered a Panasonic FM 2200uF / 25V electrolytic cap where the power supply is connected. Plus, I added the Ferrite beads to my speaker wires.
 The result is amazing! These new mods have completely changed this little amp. If the Elna Silmic II caps add warmth, then I guess I like "warm"  I will try the Nichicon caps next.

[Folsom]

What inductor/ferrite are you guys using? My Sure has a bit less noise with some old bead clamps from PE, but it utterly destroys the top end and more.

I'm worried the 3116 could be like that. My Mini ClassDaudio has no top end, and similar looking inductors to the 3116 one-knob board.

[Taterworks]

I replaced the power supply caps on a new TPA3110D2 amp board with Elna Silmic II caps that were mentioned as being "warm" sounding. Also, I soldered a Panasonic FM 2200uF / 25V electrolytic cap where the power supply is connected. Plus, I added the Ferrite beads to my speaker wires.
 The result is amazing! These new mods have completely changed this little amp. If the Elna Silmic II caps add warmth, then I guess I like "warm"  I will try the Nichicon caps next.

Very glad to hear the bulk PSU cap and ferrite beads worked out for you, along with the Silmic mod. I need to give that last one a try.

With the bulk PSU cap mod, I noticed a change from a thin, literal sound to a fuller sound with weightier lows, without sacrificing the balance between smoothness and detail on top, so there is definitely an increase in the current that is available instantaneously to the amp chip. Intuitively, I prefer the idea of preserving the smaller, possibly faster and lower-ESR 220uF caps in the power supply decoupling capacitor positions, and then letting them recharge from the bigger 2200 uF reservoir. It also makes the change to premium decoupling caps less expensive.

[Taterworks]

What inductor/ferrite are you guys using? My Sure has a bit less noise with some old bead clamps from PE, but it utterly destroys the top end and more.

I'm worried the 3116 could be like that. My Mini ClassDaudio has no top end, and similar looking inductors to the 3116 one-knob board.

I provided the ferrite bead part number in a previous post. They're very small beads, only large enough for the wire to pass through once, though I doubt that unless you wound the wire around a larger bead several times (thus creating an inductor), that you would notice any change in the HF response. The main objective of using the ferrite beads is to reduce RF interference with surrounding devices.

If you review my previous posts about this amp board, I had noticed that music playback above a certain level would cause interference problems with my wireless mouse and keyboard. The ferrite beads helped somewhat, but I later found that at even louder levels my wireless mouse and keyboard reception would become spotty again. An output filter with a very elevated corner frequency (40 kHz or above) might be able to attenuate the RFI emissions further without having an audible impact on the sound, even with higher-impedance loads. Also, I might try using larger ferrite beads on the speaker cables to see if they can be effective at lower frequencies.

[lacro]

Very glad to hear the bulk PSU cap and ferrite beads worked out for you, along with the Silmic mod. I need to give that last one a try.

With the bulk PSU cap mod, I noticed a change from a thin, literal sound to a fuller sound with weightier lows, without sacrificing the balance between smoothness and detail on top, so there is definitely an increase in the current that is available instantaneously to the amp chip. Intuitively, I prefer the idea of preserving the smaller, possibly faster and lower-ESR 220uF caps in the power supply decoupling capacitor positions, and then letting them recharge from the bigger 2200 uF reservoir. It also makes the change to premium decoupling caps less expensive.

 Being the rookie I am, I'm not sure exactly how to describe the sound after the mods, but I certainly can hear a positive difference Your description of weightier lows is immediately noticeable. I have a small sub connected to my modest desktop system and after adding the third cap, I had to turn down my sub. Also, I concur with the "fuller sound" description.
 I didn't even know my amp without the ferrite beads was possibly causing RFI issues with my wireless mouse. I have been experiencing intermittent problems with the mouse scroll wheel not working. Since I installed the beads, everything seems to be ok. Not sure if the beads were the cure, but it was more effective than replacing the mouse batteries. I used the beads from Digikey that Rhing listed in a previous post.

[shadowlight]

Do the ferrite beads go on each L & R channel individually or together.  I need to get back to getting the amp up and running.

[rhing]

Each of the four wires, "+" and "-"  from the speaker output screw terminal blocks get a Ferrite bead. So four beads total.

[shadowlight]

Each of the four wires, "+" and "-"  from the speaker output screw terminal blocks get a Ferrite bead. So four beads total.

Thank you

[lacro]

It keeps getting better I added the Panasonic EVJ 50k ohm volume pot that Rhing used. I am using the amp for PC based listening primarily for streaming Pandora One, and now I can max the Pandora volume control, and use the newly installed pot for volume duty. Yet another very positive addition to this amazing little amp.
I am getting better at slinging solder with each new mod. Thanks everyone for all the great ideas and the help!

My experimentation board:

[rhing]

Very nice! The Panasonic pots are not the easiest to work with, but with a third hand tool and patience, it really can't be beat for the money--transparent and really great channel balance.