[G Georgopoulos]

hi guys relax you know the song RELAX by franky goes to holywood in the 80s,banning someone is not a good thing, lets forgive him,he shares this forum like us,relax...

[lowtech]

I was thinking the Orion crossed at 160Hz though.

You stand corrected.

Steve didn't have any loose screws and his receiver wasn't contributing to the panel flexing and resonating...

The No Rez did help his sound considerably, and it was pretty obvious.

Whatever you claim, Danny.  Tightening loose screws and using a proper amplifier would have been the correct way to start addressing your friend's underlying problems.

But hey, if you want to believe that 3/4" hardwood side panels is good enough for the job then feel free to build yours that way

The Orion side panels are just that - panels.  The woofer section has a 3/4" carcass underneath that the side panels attach to.  3/4" + 3/4" = 1 1/2", I think.  It acts as a constrained layer when properly secured together (glue/screws).  Steve had some major misconceptions about the design (using the wrong amplifier was just one).  No disrespect, Danny.  It's okay to be wrong sometimes.

If you don't have something positive to contribute here then please don't.

Are corrections considered positive, neutral or otherwise by your standards?  Seems that it doesn't matter much.

[Danny Richie]

[quote author=lowtech link=topic=132865.msg1409096#msg1409096 date=1425501085
Whatever you claim, Danny.  Tightening loose screws and using a proper amplifier would have been the correct way to start addressing your friend's underlying problems.[/quote]

There were no loose screws. And I think they might have been glued together. And his amplifier had nothing to do with the coloration caused by the resonating side panels. You know better than that.

The Orion side panels are just that - panels.  The woofer section has a 3/4" carcass underneath that the side panels attach to.  3/4" + 3/4" = 1 1/2", I think.  It acts as a constrained layer when properly secured together (glue/screws).  Steve had some major misconceptions about the design (using the wrong amplifier was just one).  No disrespect, Danny.  It's okay to be wrong sometimes.

I am glad to know you feel it is okay to be wrong. That way you won't feel bad about yourself.

Only on the back side of the lower woofer and in a few places on the back side of the upper woofer are the layers 1.5" thick. The rest is all just 3/4" panels. See for yourself. Those panels were quite excitable.

Are corrections considered positive, neutral or otherwise by your standards?  Seems that it doesn't matter much.

I think everyone has clearly noted your condescending attitude and sarcastic comments plus suggesting I have a mental condition...

Find a new place to cause trouble Mike.

[mlundy57]

didn't realize lowtech was also a Mike.

Gives the rest of us Mike's a bad name.

[bladesmith]

So moving forward....


1) A very rigid frame is a benefit.

2) And the next step forward would be a "U" or "H" frame.

3) And better yet, a rigid, H/U frame with a separate amp for both sides.

Seems like some good advice...

Thanks.... for the info Danny...


 

[bdp24]

oops

[bdp24]

So moving forward....


1) A very rigid frame is a benefit.

2) And the next step forward would be a "U" or "H" frame.

3) And better yet, a rigid, H/U frame with a separate amp for both sides.

Seems like some good advice...

Thanks.... for the info Danny...


 

Don't forget the W-Frame! There are plans for a W in the listing for the 12" OB Servo woofer on the GR Research website. A separate amp is not necessary, nor advisable, for the GR OB subs. The A370 amp actually puts out more power driving two woofers than one, their combined impedance taking advantage of the amp's higher output with a lower-impedance load.

[bladesmith]

Danny,

I'm going to try a 1.5" thick "U" shaped baffle or an "L" shaped baffle..

(I was going to use a straight baffle, but you have convinced me, other wise.)

Thanks...

("bdp24", I will check out those "W"s...)

[Early B.]

With all of this talk about side panels, I'm wondering if I need to add mass to the sides of my OB servo sub. Made of soild walnut. It ain't pretty, but it does the job. When I place my hand on the cabinet while the woofers are woofin', I don't feel any movement at all. I never play it loud, if that matters. I tried No Rez once, but it looked awful because I didn't cut straight lines, so I ripped it out. I didn't hear any differences when it was installed. Am I OK? 

[Danny Richie]

If you had taller sides and a top on it then you'd get more output from it, and you'd shift your off axis cancellation area forward. Right now the top woofer is cancelling output 90 degrees from the plane of the tilt. 

[bdp24]

Beautiful walnut, though! Bladesmith, the two baffles of Early B's frame above is a W, but in Danny's plans the side panels are straight-sided rectangles about 14" deep, and there is a top panel as well as the bottom one in Early B's. His W has what is usually the back side of the frame facing forward. It makes no difference, just sayin'! A good thing to add to Danny's W plans is a brace across the open cavity on the opposite side (the back, in Early B's case), connecting the two side panels at their front edge. A strip of 3/4" plywood will do, or a dowel.