[Early B.]

I'm interested in getting someone to build a set of stereo, OB, H-frame subwoofer stands using three of Danny's 8" drivers, but need some help on design ideas and drafting a schematic. Here's the caveat -- the amp needs to be installed on the frame.

This is the gist of my idea -- there would be three separate compartments of the H-frame -- one for each driver. The bottom section should be wider than the top two compartments (maybe trapezoidal?) in order to accommodate the amp install. Will I need to build some kind of partition or enclosure to separate the amp's transformer from interacting with the magnet of the driver? How would I evenly distribute the weight of the H-frame?

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.     

[Peter J]

Early, I like the idea of a "community" project, is that what you're proposing? I'd envision it like this: Input from the community here on how it needs to be done, design parameters, dimensions etc. What I would offer is to draw it in Sketchup and post renderings for review and eventually a plan that would somehow be archived for easy access.

It seems to me that there are several designs, particularly open baffle sub plans, that are mostly contained in threads which makes quick access difficult at best. You wouldn't even know about them if you just happened in to the circle and weren't following the thread.

My thought would be to have a sticky thread that contains these plans and not much else, Ultimately it's Danny's circle so I suppose the decision would be up to him.

I realize this is a tangent off your original request, but it just got me thinkin' about the possibilities.

[rollo]

  Keep it simple by having the amps outboard. Is there a specific reason to have them in the enclosure ?


charles

[mlundy57]

When I built my three 8" driver H-Frames I made the base long enough in the back to accommodate the amp boxes.






Don't know why sometimes pictures import sideways or how to fix it 




I was a little concerned about blocking part of the bottom opening but Danny said due to the frequencies involved it wouldn't be a problem.  I'm not totally fond of this arrangement but it does save space.

Mike

[corndog71]

Seems a bit overkill to me.  Why does the amp have to be attached?

[Danny Richie]

You already have the 12" servo subs. Just build them into a matching Wedge shape and it will complete the look of the speaker. I think Mike Lundy already made some this way. Where are the pics of that one Mike?

[Captainhemo]

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=138533.0

[Early B.]

Early, I like the idea of a "community" project, is that what you're proposing? I'd envision it like this: Input from the community here on how it needs to be done, design parameters, dimensions etc. What I would offer is to draw it in Sketchup and post renderings for review and eventually a plan that would somehow be archived for easy access.

Yes, the "community project" was my intention. I greatly appreciate your offer!

  Keep it simple by having the amps outboard. Is there a specific reason to have them in the enclosure ?

An inquisitive two year old. Plus, an integrated sub amp is less cluttered and more wife friendly. The setup is in the den/TV room, so it's used heavily by family members and friends.

When I built my three 8" driver H-Frames I made the base long enough in the back to accommodate the amp boxes.

This is very cool! I haven't seen this one. Do you have a schematic for it?

You already have the 12" servo subs. Just build them into a matching Wedge shape and it will complete the look of the speaker. I think Mike Lundy already made some this way.

This build is for another system. The sub stands need to be rectangular, not wedge shaped, to match the shape of the monitors.   

[rollo]

When I built my three 8" driver H-Frames I made the base long enough in the back to accommodate the amp boxes.






Don't know why sometimes pictures import sideways or how to fix it 




I was a little concerned about blocking part of the bottom opening but Danny said due to the frequencies involved it wouldn't be a problem.  I'm not totally fond of this arrangement but it does save space.

Mike

   Looks like someone needs some wire management kidding aside it does make a difference for the good.


charles

[dlparker]

Don't know why sometimes pictures import sideways or how to fix it  :scratch:

Mike

I usually lay down on the floor, or the desk if it's big enough..

[Captainhemo]

Don't know why sometimes pictures import sideways or how to fix it 



Mike

There you go man..

I really like how you extended thjat base to creat the space for the amp box

jay

[corndog71]

You already have the 12" servo subs. Just build them into a matching Wedge shape and it will complete the look of the speaker. I think Mike Lundy already made some this way. Where are the pics of that one Mike?

Danny,  Do you think the performance of the wedge box would be the same as the regular h-frame? 

Mike, That wedge looks pretty good. 

[Danny Richie]

This build is for another system. The sub stands need to be rectangular, not wedge shaped, to match the shape of the monitors.   

Gotcha.

[Danny Richie]

Danny,  Do you think the performance of the wedge box would be the same as the regular h-frame? 

Mike, That wedge looks pretty good. 

Pretty close.

[Early B.]

I like mlundy57's design, but let's see if we can get the footprint a bit smaller. Also, we'll need to keep the height to 28-30 inches so that the tweeters will be at ear level.

I'm thinking of the bottom third of the stand being a truncated pyramid in order to accommodate the amp being installed on one side. 

Another option -- just thinking outside the box -- what about mounting the amp on the bottom of the stands, and the stands would have 2-3 inch legs or spikes. Initially, it will be a bit annoying to tip over the stands and change settings on the amp, but once everything is dialed in, you're good. Plus, it would be a very clean look in terms of cable runs and no visible amp.

What do you guys think? 



 

[mlundy57]

This is very cool! I haven't seen this one. Do you have a schematic for it?

Early B,

Not really but it wouldn't be difficult to take some measurements if you want them

   Looks like someone needs some wire management kidding aside it does make a difference for the good.

charles

Charles,

I never have figured out how to keep all the cables and cords neat with so much in such a small area.

Don't even look at my main system, I have both a 2 channel and an HT setup in the same area using the same speakers. Talk about a snake pit of cables 

There you go man..

I really like how you extended thjat base to creat the space for the amp box

jay

Jay,

Thanks. It makes for a good place to set the amps.

How'd you get the picture to do that? The picture is oriented properly in my computer but shows up turned on its side when I post it.

Mike, That wedge looks pretty good. 

Thanks, one of these days I'm going to get the plinths finished 

I like mlundy57's design, but let's see if we can get the footprint a bit smaller. Also, we'll need to keep the height to 28-30 inches so that the tweeters will be at ear level.

I'm thinking of the bottom third of the stand being a truncated pyramid in order to accommodate the amp being installed on one side. 

Another option -- just thinking outside the box -- what about mounting the amp on the bottom of the stands, and the stands would have 2-3 inch legs or spikes. Initially, it will be a bit annoying to tip over the stands and change settings on the amp, but once everything is dialed in, you're good. Plus, it would be a very clean look in terms of cable runs and no visible amp.

What do you guys think? 

Early B.,

The height on mine is 29 1/2". I couldn't get it any shorter, the drivers are as close together as I could possibly get them. Both the top and bottom are 1 1/2" thick.

I'd sure hate to have to keep taking my speakers apart and moving everything to get to a bottom facing amp. Would have to redial in the imaging each time.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Jay,

Thanks. It makes for a good place to set the amps.

How'd you get the picture to do that? The picture is oriented properly in my computer but shows up turned on its side when I post it.


Thanks, one of these days I'm going to get the plinths finished 

Your computer is probably auto rotating it when it's displaying  it. When I saved the image and then opened it in PS, it was sideways.

Early B.,

The height on mine is 29 1/2". I couldn't get it any shorter, the drivers are as close together as I could possibly get them. Both the top and bottom are 1 1/2" thick.

I'd sure hate to have to keep taking my speakers apart and moving everything to get to a bottom facing amp. Would have to redial in the imaging each time.

Mike

Not to mention the additonal height  placing the amps underneath would add.  I will quite often tweak my subs when listening to different albums as  recordings are so different from one another.
I understand it would be cool to have  the amps hidden away but not sure how functional you'll be able to  make the  design

-jay

[Early B.]

I will quite often tweak my subs when listening to different albums as  recordings are so different from one another.

Oh, man, that would drive me nuts. Set it and forget it. That's what I do.

[gregfisk]

Not to mention the additonal height  placing the amps underneath would add.  I will quite often tweak my subs when listening to different albums as  recordings are so different from one another.
I understand it would be cool to have  the amps hidden away but not sure how functional you'll be able to  make the  design

-jay

You won't be able to stay under 30" with the amps underneath.
I'm with Jay, when I'm listening to different songs and at different volumes I adjust the amps to make the song sound better.

What if you built the amps in separate boxes but had lids on them? That would keep little hands away and they don't take up that much room, no more than if they were stuck to the back of the subs.

[Early B.]

Early B,

Not really but it wouldn't be difficult to take some measurements if you want them

OK, it looks like the best option would be your design. Yes, I'd really appreciate it if you could take some measurements, then perhaps we can ask Peter J to do a Sketchup on it. That would be awesome!