AudioCircle
Audio/Video Gear and Systems => The Vinyl Circle => Topic started by: TheChairGuy on 28 Dec 2008, 05:35 am
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The initial reaction to this table was great...so big (13" platter, 10" arm), so sophisticated (fully auto including auto-off, magnetic supported platter and anti-skate, Q-damped arm) and lovely (rosewood finish is a stunner).
After filling it's gizzards with 8lbs of plast-i-clay....the first impulse is to marvel at it's utter quietness. However, for the past two days I have played with it, 3 no-fail cartridges now, and this table doesn't merit the high level of playback the QL-F6 achieves.
It's conclusive now that I have hooked the far cheaper JVC QL-F6 back into the system....it seriously outplays the newer, upper-crust QL-Y66F. No doubt about it now....the top-of-the-line 66F is a downgrade in performance.
The instruments all sound like themselves now, including the triangles, high hats, etc (which were near impossible to get right with the 66F) are all sounding swell now. No dynamic short-fall either...and it sounds good turned up or fairly low.
I think, but not at all sure, the shortfall lies in the arm itself. By no means bad, it just doesn't handle itself like the arm in the F6.
One additional thing the 66F had going for it was that it was a delight to set-up and play with the marvel of Japanese mid-80's engineering....and it was absolutely skip-resistant. I was thumping the table top and not a trace of feedback emptied back into the chain. Unfortunately, this is not the only barometer of sonic delights...and in the ways that count (most like real music), the gorgeous 66F takes a back seat to the lowly/dowdy F6 in the pecking order of JVC decks.
Money and good looks alone don't necessarily buy happiness in turntables 8)
It sure is a purdy one, tho:
(http://www.vintage-audio.com.ua/pict_mod/cat_items/1222_pict_big_jvc_ql_y66f_b.jpg)
John
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john, which arm are you using with it, straight or the "s"? i've always thought mine is partial to brighter sounding lomc cartridges, maybe its just my ears.
sam :o
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The straight pipe.....the only one the seller had with this particular table (which is in otherwise very good condition)
Sam - rather than you looking for your next $300 'fix' in cartridge, now that I have owned and compared this one (even stuffed 8lbs of plast-i-clay into it's guts).....save some money and but a better deck. Unless I'm doing something spectacularly wrong in set-up, or there is a fantastically simply tweek that I have missed for improving this deck - I have to say for a modest amount of dash you can improve on this deck.
I'm going to keep tinkering with it as I am absolutely gobsmacked and smitten with it's looks, fluid controls, et al....but I'm not sure at this point what could have been missed :roll:
John
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i've always used the heavier s arm on mine, been meaning to put my dl-110 on the straight arm to see how it sounds. mine's always sounded a little laid back, but with klipsch 5.5 speakers that's a good thing. i think i'll keep mine until i can afford vpi scout or something similar. i love the fact that the 66 is fully auto, i don't have much interest in a manual tt, not the bargain basement ones anyway. i really think you should hunt for the heavier s arm. i've got an at-f3 mkll coming this week, found it for a little over a hundred bucks on ebay new. i'll let you know how it works with it.
keep the faith bro, sam :deadhorse:
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Sometimes using putty isn't a good thing. It Can sick the life out of a TT.Same with putting granite Andree a TT....
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Boy spell check really F***ed that up. I was saying sometimes using putty isn"t a good thing on a TT it sucks the life out of it. The same can be said for granite.......
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i never used the plasticlay in mine, and now i'm not too sure if i will. i pretty much agree with you, i think a good thick maple isolation block is probably the way to go. maybe line the inside of the platter with plasticlay.
sam :dunno:
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Hi guys.
Mine, I changed de power cord and the RCA's. Inside I used a bit of a bitumen material but no clay.
Damped the underside of the metal disc and I'm using a matt with it.
The bigger improvement was when I added my Roller Base where the unit seats.
I'm using a Grado Red Cartridge but would like reccomemdations for this unit.
Jose
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Jose,
Hi bud :wave: - I'm glad you chimed in here (or in at VE). I've not updated everyone on the Y66F here, so here goes...
There is a ton of resonances held in the top plinth of this deck....much like all the other DD's I've encountered.
The feedback issue has now been cured thru use of 8 Herbie's Tenderfeet underneath...damping the flapping (cheap) mdf bottom. I think I prefer hard feet overall, but on this deck, one has little other choice than the damp the flapping bottom.
The top is very resonant...despite 8lb of plast-i-clay inside. I took 2 x 3" square pieces of EAR Isodamp constrained layer damping, placed near the tonearm and one in the back left side of the deck. Then, I took 2 small plastic bottles filled with lead shot that I had around...and placed the bottles (which probably weigh 1+ lbs with shot inside) on top of the EAR squares.
Mission accomplished....a hard tap on the top plinth during playback does not enter the sonic chain....and the music is much clearer as a result.
It seems, all of these non-broadcast DD decks with auto arms are plagued with the same resonance issues...and need a lot of (mechanical/damping) help to overcome them.
On my uglier DD decks, I actually plat-i-clay the top plinth, too, as it improves playback so (but looks wretched). The JVC QL-Y66F is just too pretty to do this to, tho :)
Unless changed recently, Jose shared with me his 'recipe' for the Y66F base he uses here: http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=157267
John
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Hola John!
I didn't mentioned that I also replace the lower lead with a cedar plywood replica which impoved the unit and use a set of cones instead of the original footers.
The base, I call it Roller Base Platform
They are simply two pieces of plywood about 18"w x 16"d x 3/4"h with 6 pieces of 4" x 4" x 3/4" squares.
Between them, there are 6 concave door knobs atached to the shelves and with the squares having a cut-out in a circular way (used a router).
The shinny things between the mirror imaged devise are ball bearings that flout over/under the knobs giving the effect of a Double Stack Symposium Roller Blocks alike.... ( as per Listener review).
The other thing you see between the cones and devise top, is a whole pad of Rubber-Cork-Rubber Mat that cost around $30 at any industrial refrigeration store and that some audio dedicated stores charge $10-30 for 4 square pieces. ( the pad can give 81 of those pieces).
The TT move around if touched but never felt down. The mechanism allows for strong movement is required but keep the system in place at the center of the cones once it stop moving.
Results... under a CD player is like magic and do much of what Darumas, Symposium and other bearing systems bring. With my TT I eliminated the feedback that haunts me before and eliminate most ( if not all) the vibrations entering to my TT even with my heavy weight DIY rack ( granite, cedar wood and cedar plywood with 3/4" long screws).
(http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85248&d=1206989202)
(http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85249&d=1206989202)
(http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85250&d=1206989202)
(http://audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85251&d=1206989202)
Jose
PS. Thanks for the link, I just pirated in..... aa
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John, I saw you mentionning about the modified power supply for the Technics -1200.
I wonder if you have ever considered if it could be a good thing to move the internal power supply on the JVC QL-Y66F away from the unit to a separate box. What effect, if any, could this have on the units performance?
Regards,
Jose
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Hola Jose!
I'm not a techie to make an outboard power supply....but I think it's always a good move to have it with a TT if you can.
The more you outboard, the less vibrations and EMI within :)
John
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Found this page with some great pictures of a unit like mine. Enjoy....
PS. John .. I'm still waiting for your new comparison with the Herbie's feet... :drool:
http://blackswampaudio.smugmug.com/gallery/957873#44043393_pXGNw
Jose
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Herbie's Tenderfeet and brass discs under that...couple with spray damping the bottom tray is the winner :thumb:
The TT is the best one I own now...it plays fantastically - I cannot wait to play it everyday.
I am among the first folks to get VPI's new 'Classic' table (10" arm as well, but belt drive)
I'm kinda' hoping the VPI doesn't sound as good....I love the fully auto play of the JVC :wink:
John
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Thanks for replying John :D
What brand of spray damping did you used?
Got to love the auto play for sure...
I have a better bottom base which is made of 5/8" A/B Cedar plywood.
When you refer to the bottom tray, you mean, the bottom base, right?
Jose
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Yeah, the bottom base (where the stock feet are normally attached) is what I mean. It's the achilles heel of this fine deck...which is playing fantastically now.
Spray damping brands work all much the same....it's liquid spray of some rubberized compound that dries when exposed to air for a time. I've tried the stuff they sell at Parts Express (Cascade) and it works well...but takes up to 48 hours to dry. I ended up using Dupli-color UC-103 spray damping compound. It takes only 15 minutes to fully dry and does great. It's also cheaper than the Cascade stuff by 1/2.
I haven't seen it in the market in a while...it may have been discontinued the past couple years.
A new, less resonant bottom like you crafted would do the trick, too :thumb:
John
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I'm trying to order a Mint Best Tractor cartridge alignment tool, and they want to know what the spindle diameter (7.10 to 7.25mm is the range?) is for the JVC QL-Y66F. Didn't find anything in the user manual or the service manual.
Anyone know this one?
Thanks in advance,
Wilson
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No need for a protractor. The manual (downloadable from Vinyl Engine) states that the stylus tip is to be 47mm from the end of the headshell (right where it ends at the arm pipe). It's got a picture.
JVC further says that differences of 1mm either way are largely inaudible. I tend to agree.
No need for a stylus pressure gauge either...you dial it in close and you tune each cartridge by ear. The dial for tracking force is conveniently located on the front of the machine, so you can do it while a record is playing and hear the result for yourself.
A fantastically easy deck to set up, tune and quality tunes, too. Almost nirvana it is.
You're thinking WAY to hard about this deck. Enjoy it - I/we're here to help if you're really stuck.
John :wink:
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Thanks for replying John :D
What brand of spray damping did you used?
Got to love the auto play for sure...
I have a better bottom base which is made of 5/8" A/B Cedar plywood.
When you refer to the bottom tray, you mean, the bottom base, right?
Jose
Hey Jose!
Dupli-Color UC103 fast drying. Not sure it's made anymore tho (and it ran out spraying the JVC)
Yep, bottom base = bottom base (the part the horrible stock feet are attached to)
Ciao, John
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Just wanted to give you all an update. As you know, about a month ago I took some advice here and got a JVC QL-Y66F.
I took the same advice and made some easy mods/additions:
1. Added 7 lbs (just couldn't manage to fit 8 lbs) of Plast-i-Clay to the interior of the chassis.
2. Replaced the stock feet with 5 Herbie's tenderfoots
3. Got Herbie's Way Excellent Mat II, the 4.5mm version
4. Applied Duplicolor sound dampening spray to the bottom board
5. Added some brass weights to the plinth
I also replaced the stock cartridge with a Dynavector 10x5, and I'm using the Jolida JD-9 with NOS Raytheon 12AX7 black plates. Other equipment is a RWA Isabella linestage, RWA 30.2 amplifier and Zu Druids and Zu Mini-Method subwoofer.
My conclusion is that the JVC QL-Y66F sounds excellent. To be frank, I was half expecting to be somewhat disappointed. I'm not sure what a $2500 turntable sounds like, and I'd like to find out, but I'm quite happy with what I have right now.
My only disappointment is with my local dealer who sold me the Dynavector 10x5. He setup the cartridge for me and demoed it with powered mini-monitors, listened from 2 feet away and in the hallway of his shop, and dismissed the JVC QL-Y66F as inferior to the Music Hall MMF 2.2. He claimed that I could do a lot better for $400.
When I mentioned that the MMF 2.2 that he demoed for me two months earlier had a lot of groove noise by comparison (is that tracking that's responsible for that? I don't even hear any groove noise on the JVC) he said that no, the MMF is much quieter than the JVC. It was surprising to me that he could have such a strong and definitive opinion given no break-in on the cartridge and the less than ideal listening environment. That and the way that he spoke about how belt-drive will always be superior to direct-drive, only makes me think that he is hopelessly biased against direct drive and unwilling to even bother listening with an open mind.
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That is why there are not many brick and mortar dealers.
I have not been in one in 10 years. I did just purchase a Dana 10X5 and it is a great cartridge. With the Jolida it must sound very nice.
That JVC you have is probably much better built than the MM he was recommending.
It's not cool to come across like that to a customer anyway.
Enjoy!
D
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My conclusion is that the JVC QL-Y66F sounds excellent. To be frank, I was half expecting to be somewhat disappointed. I'm not sure what a $2500 turntable sounds like, and I'd like to find out, but I'm quite happy with what I have right now.
My only disappointment is with my local dealer who sold me the Dynavector 10x5. He setup the cartridge for me and demoed it with powered mini-monitors, listened from 2 feet away and in the hallway of his shop, and dismissed the JVC QL-Y66F as inferior to the Music Hall MMF 2.2. He claimed that I could do a lot better for $400.
My two immediate responses to you post are...
1. AWESOME :thumb:
2. Your dealer is a close-minded dickweed :lol:
The reason you heard more noise with the Music Hall is probably two or three fold:
1. The motor is simply inferior. You don't need a stethoscope to know this...just put your ear next to the plinth of each without music in the background and listen for yourself. The belt drive does partially de-couple this noise from the platter...but, the motor resonance still rattles your deck and travels it to the incredibly sensitive stylus/cartridge.
2. The horizontal and vertical damping does wonders for squashing resonant peaks inherent from the production of the record itself, any warps that develop at any time and helps ease the burden of compliance mismatch between cartridge and tonearm. Electro-magnetic damping, in this case, works as a very effective mechanical subsonic filter so your woofers are spared of a lot of subsonic garbage so you get 'cleaner' sound thru your speakers and on to your brain
3. It's a 10% tonearm on that JVC...of at least decent quality. In itself a 10" tonearm will normally track 10% better (less tracing distortion) than a typical 9" tonearm - depending on what you listen to, this can be readily heard (I hear the betterment significantly as I listen to a lot of solo piano). A l-o-n-g-e-r tonearm will also track warps better...the worse the warps, all other things being equal, the better a 10" arm will sound.
I have one or maybe two $2500 turntables coming in soon....I will let you know if spending 8x as much fetches you a better deck than the JVC QL-Y66F. I, too, listen to it and am thrilled each time (if you have never tried a Grado on a damped arm, you are in for a thrill I tell ya' :))
So far I've pitted 2 decks at about $3000 in deck, arm and outboard motors against it and they did not measure up (subjective as ar all matters, of course)
It's likely the best turntable that JVC ever made on the cusp of impending first death for vinyl in 1985...and while it may not :dunno: be the equal of $5000 decks or among the top 20 of all time from anyone, it's a highly competitive deck for $400 and a few hundred in kindly care and updates (like the clay, feet and new mat)
I used inelegant steel shot on my plinth to damp it...I'd like to try your more elegant brass weighs. Where did you buy these may I ask?
Thx, John 8)
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Edensound sells brass weights. On Audiogon, search for "brass weights" and you should get this hit:
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?accstwek&1239378551&/Edensound-Damping-Disc-massive
If you want to write directly to the proprietor, Daniel Sherbrook, his email address is: dansherbrook@gmail.com.
The standard 3 inch wide, 5/8 inch brass weight measures 1 lb. On the JVC QL-Y66F you can fit one under the tonearm easily, and another in the back left hand corner just barely (the disc has some overhang, but the feet fit solidly). He'll machine smaller ones to your specification too, although they will all be $18 regardless of size.
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Some more comparisons. I visited another local dealer today, heard the Rega P5 ($1500), the Nottingham Interspace Jr. ($2000) and the Nottingham ACE Spacedeck ($3500). I spent about 2 hours total time in the store. Based on my brief visit, and considering that associated equipment was different, my impression was the the JVC QL-Y66F is better than both the P5 and Interspace Jr. Each turntable was equipped with a Benz Micro catridge, I did not take note of which one, although the proprietor did say that it was very comparable to the Dynavector 10x5 that I presently have paired with the Y66F.
Only when I got to the $3500 Nottingham ACE Spacedeck did I think that it exceeded the capabilities of the QL-Y66F. Low level detail retrieval, ambiance, nuance, and a deeper sound stage were all better with the ACE Spacedeck. But that's a $3500 turntable versus the (assuming you can find one) quite affordable Y66F.
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Brilliant Wilson...about what I figured; as good as most tables up to $2500 :thumb:
Considering these tables go for <$500 and are FULLY automatic...they are stellar values :)
I'm sure (I KNOW) it gets better from here...but it's nuances and subjective likes, not leagues of difference I think. The fully auto function is fantastic to have, too.
EDIT: It wasn't until over $2500 invested in a VPI HW-19 Mk. III + Audioquest PT-6 arm with VTAF + Revelation Audio Labs cable + SDS did I find the VPI as good as the JVC QL-Y66F. Actually, in soundstage the VPI was IMMENSE (absolutely amazing in that respect) and that alone could have one preferring it to the JVC. But, new, this setup was $4000...versus the $600 that the JVC sold for in 1979 and the $400-500 it fetches today.
John
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Digging up an old thread. I am REALLY excited, as I managed to find this table at what I consider to be a fair price. I will certainly post some pics of the unit when it arrives. I will order some plasticlay, a Herbie's mat, a maple cutting board, some brass feet, etc. I think I will do the mods one at a time though so that I can have fun listening and tinkering. My unit is coming with the MC-200E coil cartridge from JVC. The seller says it is plenty sharp still and in no need of re-tipping. How do you know when it is time for a new cart or re-tipping? This is my first real TT so I will be reading and researching a lot in the vinyl circle. I have no doubt I will get quite educated.
Michael
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When I mentioned that the MMF 2.2 that he demoed for me two months earlier had a lot of groove noise by comparison (is that tracking that's responsible for that? I don't even hear any groove noise on the JVC) he said that no, the MMF is much quieter than the JVC. It was surprising to me that he could have such a strong and definitive opinion given no break-in on the cartridge and the less than ideal listening environment. That and the way that he spoke about how belt-drive will always be superior to direct-drive, only makes me think that he is hopelessly biased against direct drive and unwilling to even bother listening with an open mind.
Some dealers just HAFTA talk like that!
Enjoy it!
Paul
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Digging up an old thread. I am REALLY excited, as I managed to find this table at what I consider to be a fair price. I will certainly post some pics of the unit when it arrives. I will order some plasticlay, a Herbie's mat, a maple cutting board, some brass feet, etc. I think I will do the mods one at a time though so that I can have fun listening and tinkering. My unit is coming with the MC-200E coil cartridge from JVC. The seller says it is plenty sharp still and in no need of re-tipping. How do you know when it is time for a new cart or re-tipping? This is my first real TT so I will be reading and researching a lot in the vinyl circle. I have no doubt I will get quite educated.
Michael
Awesome Michael...keep us abreast of the progress.
My QL-Y66F is in disrepair right now...hoping my quality repair center located not far away is capable of the repair. Fortunately, the parts list, service and owners manual are now available from those great folks at VinylEngine...so it'll be easier for my tech to trace the issue.
I suggest you download these to have around for the arrival of your new baby: http://www.vinylengine.com/library/jvc/ql-y66f.shtml
The JVC cartridge, assuming it's got life left on it, should provide you pleasure to start your journey at the beginning :thumb:
If you read thru this topic you saw that there is some massive feedback issues with this deck caused by the particleboard construction of it. Prime issue is the thin bottom piece...which creates a speaker cone of flapping 'excitement' backing up into the deck, unfortunately. It needs to be damped down, replaced or removed entirely to get the best with this deck (in addition to the plasticlay inside)
This deck responds to isolation aid better than any other deck I'm aware of and is really a swan when you dial it all in.
Regards, John
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Hope you get it back up and running soon, John.
I recieved the 'table last night. Big. I read the dimensions and I know 495mm is nearly 20" but I still wasn't prepared. Impressively heavy as well. I plugged it all into my new (to me) Audible Illusions M3a and low and behold... No left channel. After doing some simple checks, I pulled off the bottom and looked around thinking a wire lead might have dislodged during transit. Fortunately no re-soldering required.
I went to a local record shop and picked up a 25 dollar Audio Technica cartridge and voilà, left channel back in business.
It certainly isn't up to the bar set by my Modwright Transporter, but I have plenty of tricks provided by all of you for getting it there. I have some work to do this morning, but later on I think I will go to the hobby shop and look for some modeling clay. Pliable and non-hardening, correct?
As for the base, I see at least one person here has replaced it with plywood. Has anyone considered/suggested or implemented internal plywood bracing? I just thought about B&W's work with bracing MDF for loudspeakers in the same timeframe as when this deck was new, or perhaps after. I'd have to read up on their design history. The point being, a rigid body for damping resonances has been established. I think bracing the interior with precisely cut plywood, then claying it and finally attaching a clayed plywood bottom using the original pre-drilled holes in the MDF as well as predrilling the new bracing might be an interesting experiment. Is over stiffening/damping cause for concern? This is my first TT (technically 2nd - I had a plastic fantastic Sony from the 90's) so if I'm all wet let me know.
Michael
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Michael,
Nope - you're not all wet...the table is big and sounds terrific once you dial out all the feedback issues.
For reference, it sounds better than a Technics SL-1200 with outboard motor, strobe disabler and a $2700 Origin Live Illustrious arm. It's nearly as good overall, but has fantastic auto return standard, than a $2700 VPI Classic that I own, as well. That's the type of company the overachieving JVC QL-Y66F is in.
Frankly, while the Y66F is down I've been using the older F6 model that preceeded it in JVC's line circa 1979. It's terrific, too....better to my ears the Technics combo, as well.
The thin, flexy bottom is the worst offender...I damped mine down with tacky rubberized spray undercoating (like the type you buy at automotive aftermarket palces) and a layer of soft, pliable modeling clay. Then, set up on a Herbie's blocks sitting on 4" maple. The inside is stuff with the clay, too.
It probably would improve further with cross-bracing...but doing something about that flexy bottom is paramount to enjoying the deck. I hope to bring to my local repair center soon and hope they can figure it out :roll:
John
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Responding to this older post as I have just joined the forum and am interested in the upgrades mentioned for the JVC QL-Y66.
Do you have any pictures of the spray applied to the bottom cover plate of the turntable by chance? Is the spray inside or outside on the cover?
Concerning the Herbies feet, did you go with the standard or tall feet, and also did you remove the stock feet?
I don't really want to do too much to denigrate the originality of the table as it does sound great to me already, but small improvements that would improve sound would be great.
I plan on checking and replacing the electrolytic caps as time allows as this is an older unit and caps have some end of life to figure in. I don't think the friend that had the table before me played it that much and it sat in storage for several years before I got my hands on it. I've already had some issues with the left and right movement buttons that seem to had had some of the plastic retainers maybe block the function. I did remove the debris and all works as it should.
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A great loss to all here at AC, we lost JohnTheChairGuy a couple of years ago. Hopefully someone else can tell you what he used to dampen his JVC. I know he was a promoter of using clay inside the plinth, but I have no idea what he was using on the outside.
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Thank you SClark for notifying me of JohnTheChairGuys passing. From looking through the forum it seems he will be/is missed.
I did end up ordering some DYNAMAT type material and will try that for the bottom cover of the TT.As it designed to be a sound deadening material it should help.
Thanks
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I found one this turntable for $300 last November, loaded the plinth with as much material that I could insert.
I used a combination of plastic clay and multiple layers of peel and stick vinyl floor tile that were cut to size and stacked from the bottom of the top plate to the bottom cover. As a result the bottom cover has maximum contact with the clay and vinyl tile with absolutely no vibration. Rapping the sides of the plinth is very solid without the hollow sound was was initially present.
I added about 12 pounds of total material and the total weight is now a hefty 43 1/2 pounds. I did not change the stock feet; however, the table sits on a solid 3 inch maple block.
This is a fantastic sounding table!
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=143326)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=143327)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=143328)
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That looks like it's in perfect shape. I also have the straight tone arm, and evidently the extra weight and S tome arm were lost during moves when my friend had the TT. Mine has some scrapes on the dust cover and the top of the plinth due to being bounced around with the platter loose between the two. Still it's in really nice shape if you don't look too hard and plays nice. Nothing peeling or anything like that.
WOW, almost 50 pounds!! Crazy.
I ordered some VIBRAPODS so I will see what happens with those and the DYNAMAT when they get here. How did you get all that stuff inside yours without getting in the way of all the electronics and tone arm etc.? Must have taken some time and patience. I'll put up some pics once I get it all done and get some time to do so. I'm still a working man unfortunately.
Thanks
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Trackball,
people can say what they want, but they sure don't make nice looking turntable like that anymore.
Congratulation for your (300USD) purchase.
I paid 695 USD for a Rega P3
and mine sure look like an El Cheapo beside yours.
Guy 13
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The guy I bought it from, had it for many years. I told me that he did not like the JVC brand, since he associated it with cheap stereo equipment, such as the mass market stuff at Best Buy. It told him it wasn't the case. He just sold it to me at his purchase price. Since everything worked and even the interconnects were perfect, I did not have to do any repairs.
There is surprisingly lot of room in the plinth just fill in as much as you can. Stay away from getting too close to the tone arm mechanism since it swings. I found careful placement of layers of peel and stick floor tile working from the inner top plate and inner sides that are cut to size is a good place to start. Go all of the way to the bottom of the pinth so that the bottom cover solidly rests on the tile. Once done, fill in the voids with the clay. Some of the edges of the electronic boards are also encased. All of this stuff can be removed later if there are any problems.
I got my plastic clay at Michaels. Find the thickest vinyl tile. I found some on Amazon that was 2 mm thick.
Just take your time, and your patience will be rewarded. :thumb: