[Folsom]

You have to be a little bit careuful, but I've twisted plenty of that same wire. Like I was saying, you don't need really tight turns with it.

[Odal3]

Nice picture guide

[ebag4]

Nice job Bretherman, the fine folks frequenting this website always appreciate pics.  Welcome to AC.

Best,
Ed

[Bretherman]

Thanks guys.

I've assembled the other board, and tested that it works as well. Sounds exactly the same as the first one, so I guess I'm still on the right path. As you can imagine, it went quite a bit easier the second time.

Folsom, I've assembled the second board with at least a little intentional orientation of the wires, so I was able to plan on twisting them. Haven't tried the first board just yet.
Hopefully everything will fit in the box without getting squished, or tugged on (or my handling yanking wires out).

I've applied silicon to key areas over both the boards, and called it a night.
Hopefully tomorrow I can start installing them. Can't wait to apply the liquid nails so I can wait for it to dry  .

I'll post up pictures of the second board in a future post.

[pinkfloyd4ever]

Very nice, Bretherman!

I'm in the middle of this upgrade on a pair of these myself. I didn't know anyone else was still doing these. I wish I'd had this resource when I started. One thing you did correctly that I f'd up (and have been stuck trying to fix for awhile) was to mix the water putty very thin, and work quickly when putting it in the slots. So my insides are rough and lumpy, and I'm trying to smooth them out. The lower section with the port is the real PITA when trying to fix this.

I'm not sure how you were able to get your binding posts out without destroying them. Mine had so much glue on the nuts inside that I couldn't get a grip on them with a socket or any type of pliers. Maybe yours had less glue? I had to cut mine off from the outside and replace them with the WBT-style ones that Parts-Express sells.

The stock speakers are often available used for ~$50 on CL though, so they're a good way for someone who wants a bit of DIY fun to get a great set of speakers for around $175 (including zip ties, a small tube of construction adhesive, and shipping the upgrade kit).

[aceinc]

Very nice, Bretherman!

I'm in the middle of this upgrade on a pair of these myself. I didn't know anyone else was still doing these. I wish I'd had this resource when I started. One thing you did correctly that I f'd up (and have been stuck trying to fix for awhile) was to mix the water putty very thin, and work quickly when putting it in the slots. So my insides are rough and lumpy, and I'm trying to smooth them out. The lower section with the port is the real PITA when trying to fix this.

Is there any benefit to smoothing out the inside of the cabinet? I could come up with some reasons why lumpy might be better.

[pinkfloyd4ever]

Is there any benefit to smoothing out the inside of the cabinet? I could come up with some reasons why lumpy might be better.

So the No-Rez sticks to the whole surface of the inside of the cabinet rather than just the peaks of the humps. Without it sticking well, I don't think you'd get much benefit from the No-Rez.

[FullRangeMan]

Is there any benefit to smoothing out the inside of the cabinet? I could come up with some reasons why lumpy might be better.

Maybe this help:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=100689.0

[FullRangeMan]

A cheap upgrade is paint mate black inside the enclosure.

[Danny Richie]

Maybe this help:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=100689.0

Actually if you are using any type of absorbing material or lining the inside with No Rez then it really doesn't matter if the inside of your cabinet is lumpy. And a smooth surface is better for allowing the No Rez to stick to it.

[Danny Richie]

A cheap upgrade is paint mate black inside the emclosure.

Painting the inside black? Really?

Whether it is black, white, red or blue, or even not painted at all will have no effect on anything. The paint won't have enough mass for any effect.

And in this case this speaker is being lined with No Rez.

[Bretherman]

So the No-Rez sticks to the whole surface of the inside of the cabinet rather than just the peaks of the humps. Without it sticking well, I don't think you'd get much benefit from the No-Rez.

Hey pinkfloyd4ever,
I'll tell you right now that the No-Rez did not stick to the water putty. Like, 0%. Take it out, and touch the adhesive and it's super sticky. Push it as hard as you can against the water putty... and it just falls as if there is no adhesive. Wiping the inside down didn't help.
I was starting to question if this dried thin mixture could be the culprit, and if I should have mixed it thicker.
Does it need to be stuck to work?
I'm past the point of correction, but I guess maybe I could have went out and bought some heavy duty spray adhesive or something. The way it is in now, the circuit board is so tight in there, that I can't imagine the No-Rez will move in the least bit. At this point I'd guess worst case scenario is that non-stuck No-Rez is better than no No-Rez
Speakers are assembled, I just have to get all the pictures together into a post.

No issues taking out the posts, luckily I didn't have to cut them! Though that would have given me an excuse to upgrade them. Just a tiny bit of glue on only one of them.

[Danny Richie]

The No Rez isn't going to function properly if it is not stuck to the side walls.

You can add adhesive to the side walls to make them sticky and that should solve your problem.

[S Clark]

I had similar problems lining the cabinets of my LS9's. These were cabinets bought from the failing AV123 company, and I didn't realize that the inside of the cabinets had an invisible layer of fine sawdust.  Within days of installing the No Rez, it fell off, and the adhesive was covered with dust.  The solution was Liquid Nails.  It's held for over 5 years. 

[Bretherman]

I had similar problems lining the cabinets of my LS9's. These were cabinets bought from the failing AV123 company, and I didn't realize that the inside of the cabinets had an invisible layer of fine sawdust.  Within days of installing the No Rez, it fell off, and the adhesive was covered with dust.  The solution was Liquid Nails.  It's held for over 5 years.

The No Rez isn't going to function properly if it is not stuck to the side walls.

You can add adhesive to the side walls to make them sticky and that should solve your problem.

Hmmm... I'll see if I can paste some liquid nails on the No-Rez. The liquid nails I put on the board should be dry by now, and I have to put some fiberglass in there anyways. Though everything is so tight, I'm not sure if I can do much about it unfortunately.

[S Clark]

If necessary, cut the No Rez into smaller pieces until it's manageable.

[gmurray618]

Has anyone ever tried this new fanged as seen on tv flex seal?

On their website it says stays flexible and "Stops Noise & Vibrations"

http://www.flexsealproducts.com/product/liquid/

Im sure it doesn't do the job of No Rez, but it might be ok.  Just thinkin out loud.

[JakeJ]

Would contact cement work?

[Danny Richie]

Would contact cement work?

Yes.

[Danny Richie]

Has anyone ever tried this new fanged as seen on tv flex seal?

On their website it says stays flexible and "Stops Noise & Vibrations"

http://www.flexsealproducts.com/product/liquid/

Im sure it doesn't do the job of No Rez, but it might be ok.  Just thinkin out loud.

I've used it. It dries pretty quickly after spraying it out. And you'd have to spray out a lot of layers of it for it to start being very effective as resonance control. 

Those cans don't go very far either and they are not cheap.