[Rod_S]

I have a few questions about the SST2 faceplates. I was just wondering how much stock you have on hand for the SST2 faceplates, particularly the 7's in silver, 17"? What is the Canadian price for them? I assume this is a factory only swap, we can't do it ourselves, at least not in keeping the warranty intact? Also what is the charge to change the LED color?

Thanks

[James Tanner]

I have a few questions about the SST2 faceplates. I was just wondering how much stock you have on hand for the SST2 faceplates, particularly the 7's in silver, 17"? What is the Canadian price for them? I assume this is a factory only swap, we can't do it ourselves, at least not in keeping the warranty intact? Also what is the charge to change the LED color?

Thanks

Hi Rod

Email Mike on that. mpickett@bryston.com

James

[Rod_S]

Thanks, e-mail has been sent.

[derekcooper]

Mike just built and sent me a 19" rack-mount faceplate for my 9B SST 2. Great communication, quick turn-around, new plate is perfect. Previous plate with 17" and thus not rack-mountable. Was about CDN$ 400 all-in.

[1ZIP]

Several weeks ago I asked Mike about dress plate changes for the 4 squared.  It was $300 + $85 labor  + shipping.

[Rod_S]

Yep, Mike got back to me and it was $300 plus $85 labour.

[Rod_S]

So I have the instructions for changing the faceplates. There isn't any soldering involved so on paper it seems fairly straight forward.

Has anyone changed the faceplates or even just the LED's (to get another color) themselves? If so how easy/hard was it in reality? I'm just wondering if this is one of those ..oh.. it looks easy but once the hood is popped and I'm part way into it that I have the dreaded what have I gotten myself into moments

[Rod_S]

Is a LED change on it's own even a possibility i.e. can just a different color LED or necessary LED swap components even be ordered on their own without the faceplate? If so does anyone know how much that costs? I hate to pester Mike again.

[servingko]

Faceplate swap is no big deal.  The difficult part is lining up multiple LEDs to the holes during reinstall,  particularly when there are more than two.  Swapping LEDs would either require desoldering/resoldering or swapping out the LED assembly.

[Rod_S]

Thanks, it's good to hear it's easy. This would be for the 7's so only a single LED to deal with

It would be the entire LED assembly I guess and not simply the LED bulb as the instructions for the faceplate swap mention if the new faceplate doesn't include the switch and LED board to simply transfer these from the old panel to the new panel so I'm thinking/hoping the LED and circuit board can be swapped easily for a new one.

[Rod_S]

So there's a line in the instructions that mentions removing mounting hardware from both channels, there's apparently 4 screws on each bottom edge, and 2 screws at each edge of the rear panel. Are these screws supposed to be on the inside of the amp or outside of the amp? If on the outside the back ones must be some of the quite visible screws I see there but what about the sides, the heat sinks are on the sides so I took a flashlight and looked within the fins but don't see anything. Do you have to flip the amp upside down perhaps and they are all on the bottom?

[Renato6]

So there's a line in the instructions that mentions removing mounting hardware from both channels, there's apparently 4 screws on each bottom edge, and 2 screws at each edge of the rear panel. Are these screws supposed to be on the inside of the amp or outside of the amp? If on the outside the back ones must be some of the quite visible screws I see there but what about the sides, the heat sinks are on the sides so I took a flashlight and looked within the fins but don't see anything. Do you have to flip the amp upside down perhaps and they are all on the bottom?

Hi...
When I changed my faceplate on  the 3BSST this is what I saw. There were 4 screws on the top of the amp (right by the heatsinks) on either side and 2 screws on the back. (Vertical) at either side. There are no screws within the fins. Top and back. Once you take those out, the heat sinks pull out horizontally. That is the most delicate part. Take care not to bend the pins as you pull the heat sinks out horizontally from the amp

[Rod_S]

Ah, so they are inside, the set of 4 and it's just the rears that are on the outside. OK, the photos help immensely. So it's really the heat sinks themselves then that were are removing, I'm assuming in order to get to the pesky screws I can see that secure the faceplate to the front. When I read in the instructions about removing channels I figured it was referring to some other component actually inside. It never occurred to me this was a reference to the heat sinks. I see the faceplate attaching screws are very close to the 1st heat sink fin, with no room to access them via a screw driver etc. thus why the heat sink needs to be removed.

Thanks for the warning about how to pull the heat sinks out.

[Renato6]

Ah, so they are inside, the set of 4 and it's just the rears that are on the outside. OK, the photos help immensely. So it's really the heat sinks themselves then that were are removing, I'm assuming in order to get to the pesky screws I can see that secure the faceplate to the front. When I read in the instructions about removing channels I figured it was referring to some other component actually inside. It never occurred to me this was a reference to the heat sinks. I see the faceplate attaching screws are very close to the 1st heat sink fin, with no room to access them via a screw driver etc. thus why the heat sink needs to be removed.

Thanks for the warning about how to pull the heat sinks out.

Yup.. you need to remove the heatsink to get to the front screws. I actually thought that if you remove the front heatsink you may be able to get to the screws with a shorter screwdriver. But probably best to remove both to get the best torque.

Hopefully this helps

[1ZIP]

Ah, so they are inside, the set of 4 and it's just the rears that are on the outside. OK, the photos help immensely. So it's really the heat sinks themselves then that were are removing, I'm assuming in order to get to the pesky screws I can see that secure the faceplate to the front. When I read in the instructions about removing channels I figured it was referring to some other component actually inside. It never occurred to me this was a reference to the heat sinks. I see the faceplate attaching screws are very close to the 1st heat sink fin, with no room to access them via a screw driver etc. thus why the heat sink needs to be removed.

Thanks for the warning about how to pull the heat sinks out.

Seems easy enough with a delicate touch needed.   How many screws total that need to be removed?  Any tricks with aligning the LEDS? 

[Rod_S]

Yup.. you need to remove the heatsink to get to the front screws. I actually thought that if you remove the front heatsink you may be able to get to the screws with a shorter screwdriver. But probably best to remove both to get the best torque.

Hopefully this helps

Yep definitely good to know, thanks.

[Rod_S]

Seems easy enough with a delicate touch needed.   How many screws total that need to be removed?  Any tricks with aligning the LEDS?

I'm not sure if all top covers have the same number of screws so that may vary but the instructions were worded as if applicable to all the SST2's. So once the cover is off that would leave the 8 screws on top and 4 on the back like the pictures above show plus the screws holding the faceplate, I think there are 4??

I'm still in the educating myself stage, I don't have the amps yet and just waiting to find out about if just the LED's (or entire assemblies if necessary) can be ordered. I also still would have to go out and purchase the proper screwdriver.

I'm feeling much more confident now unless there is something about just the LED/LED assembly swap that throws a curve ball.

[Rod_S]

Yup.. you need to remove the heatsink to get to the front screws. I actually thought that if you remove the front heatsink you may be able to get to the screws with a shorter screwdriver. But probably best to remove both to get the best torque.

Hopefully this helps

When you had yours apart did you happen to pay attention to the LED assembly, did it look like something that could easily be swapped out?

[Renato6]

When you had yours apart did you happen to pay attention to the LED assembly, did it look like something that could easily be swapped out?

To be honest, no I did not take a look at that.

I remember that the front plate had one cable that had about 8 pins that attached to the mother board. This had to be removed from the mother board (again very easy but just watch the pins) the other end was attached to the face plate. It looked like there was some work to remove it from the back of the face plate of you want to swap the leds.

[Rod_S]

To be honest, no I did not take a look at that.

I remember that the front plate had one cable that had about 8 pins that attached to the mother board. This had to be removed from the mother board (again very easy but just watch the pins) the other end was attached to the face plate. It looked like there was some work to remove it from the back of the face plate of you want to swap the leds.

Thanks, I'll give Bryston a call after work to get the details.