If you can build IKEA furniture, these will be a breeze. H Frame Flat Packs

HAL · « **Reply #220 on:** 19 Apr 2015, 03:28 pm »

Ruben,
I have another idea for attachment and connection of the modules. No need for extra holes.

Use the existing holes on the bottom and tops and just drill the relief plates to match. This connects the modules together for stability.

Run the wiring to the back of each box and on the sides to a 12 wide euro style terminal strip at the middle of the stack. This way the modules can be taken apart and moved if needed at a later time. Minimizes wiring runs from the drivers and servo coils to the amps. Also allows for the stack to be reconfigured from 1-6 modules as needed for different trials. Totally modular and reconfigurable. Each module can be shipped independently for weight and size reduction.

My thoughts so far.

Outofthewoods · « **Reply #221 on:** 19 Apr 2015, 03:42 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 19 Apr 2015, 03:28 pm

Ruben,
I have another idea for attachment and connection of the modules. No need for extra holes.

Use the existing holes on the bottom and tops and just drill the relief plates to match. This connects the modules together for stability.

IMO, it would be better to use 4 bolts located near the outside edges to keep everything really stiff. Only 2 bolts near the center would leave the 3/4" panels loose and able to resonate and would likely allow some front to back movement/sway on the entire array.

If you plan to use just the 2 holes near the center I would recommend you add at least one bolt in front and back that's centered and about 1" - 1 1/4" in from the edge of the 3/4" panels.

Quote

Run the wiring to the back of each box and on the sides to a 12 wide euro style terminal strip at the middle of the stack. This way the modules can be taken apart and moved if needed at a later time. Minimizes wiring runs from the drivers and servo coils to the amps. Also allows for the stack to be reconfigured from 1-6 modules as needed for different trials. Totally modular and reconfigurable. Each module can be shipped independently for weight and size reduction.

My thoughts so far.

That would be a good option for people who needed to reconfigure them regularly.

For people who plan to build and leave them alone, a pre-drilled run would likely be ideal. Nothing else to buy, configure, or install.

Thanks,

Ruben

Captainhemo · « **Reply #222 on:** 19 Apr 2015, 03:57 pm »

Quote from: Outofthewoods on 19 Apr 2015, 03:00 pm

The 3/32" set back on the 3/4" top and bottoms from the face of the side panels and the 1/8" reveal between each module not only look nice, but are designed to allow some slight misalignment without being noticeable.

Thanks for taking us all through the build process, Rich. It's fun to watch.

Really looking forward to seeing them finished and reading about your impressions on how they sound.

Ruben

That was a great idea Ruben, you think of everything

Rich, using a pair of bolts up front as well as out back to connect each layer is probably a better idea. Having 4 points spaced apart like that is going to be nice and solid

Interesting idea about the wiring

jay

HAL · « **Reply #223 on:** 19 Apr 2015, 04:14 pm »

Since I have to use a hand drill to make holes, they would not be very strait. Never drilled a straight wood hole in my life without a drill press.

I was thinking of using the rear corner and opposing front corner for the bolt holes. This way the airflow in the direct front and back are not disturbed buy the bolts.

Four flush mounted C clamps with plates and clamping bolts at the front and rear corners might be better and easier to install than drilling holes in my case. Then the center holes would still be available for wiring. This would put two bolts at each corner for clamping, but with distributed force. More is better!

HAL · « **Reply #224 on:** 19 Apr 2015, 06:40 pm »

Found them. Laptop docking station C clamps.

Line them with self adhesive rubber for damping and should be good to go.

Outofthewoods · « **Reply #225 on:** 20 Apr 2015, 12:15 am »

Quote from: HAL on 19 Apr 2015, 04:14 pm

Since I have to use a hand drill to make holes, they would not be very strait. Never drilled a straight wood hole in my life without a drill press.

I was thinking of using the rear corner and opposing front corner for the bolt holes. This way the airflow in the direct front and back are not disturbed buy the bolts.

Four flush mounted C clamps with plates and clamping bolts at the front and rear corners might be better and easier to install than drilling holes in my case. Then the center holes would still be available for wiring. This would put two bolts at each corner for clamping, but with distributed force. More is better!

Sounds like you've found a solution that works well for you.

In the future, if you ever need to drill straight holes and using a drill press isn't an option, this drill guide would be a great solution. http://www.amazon.com/Gator-V-DrillGuide-Standard-Portable-Drilling/dp/B0061FY004/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TN2DZSV61GCH6GDW3J1

From now on I'm just going to drill the holes here and leave a little slop for alignment. It would only take me a few minutes to drill them all. The holes don't really need to be tight against the bolts anyway. Once all 4 bolts are tightened they won't be budging.

Best,

Ruben

HAL · « **Reply #226 on:** 20 Apr 2015, 12:22 am »

Ruben,
Thanks. The jig looks promising for a hand drill.

HAL · « **Reply #227 on:** 20 Apr 2015, 10:07 pm »

First two 12" drivers installed.

Temporary 3x12" stacks for the other four 12" driver installs.

Guy 13 · « **Reply #228 on:** 20 Apr 2015, 11:18 pm »

Hi HAL,
up to now, very good, please keep going, keep going...
Are you sure that six (06) blocks will fit under the ceiling ?
Did you take masearements ?

Guy 13

Phil A · « **Reply #229 on:** 20 Apr 2015, 11:30 pm »

Rich - been watching your postings. Looks really nice.

HAL · « **Reply #230 on:** 21 Apr 2015, 12:04 am »

Guy 13,
My ceiling is 10' tall in my listening room. I could have gone one more 12" module high if I wanted. This will be the close to the 87" tall line arrays when they are done.

Phil A,
Thanks! Had lots of fun with glue and clamps!

Outofthewoods · « **Reply #231 on:** 21 Apr 2015, 12:34 am »

Quote from: HAL on 21 Apr 2015, 12:04 am

Had lots of fun with glue and clamps!

Glad to hear that!

Ruben

Guy 13 · « **Reply #232 on:** 21 Apr 2015, 02:18 am »

Quote from: HAL on 21 Apr 2015, 12:04 am

Guy 13,
My ceiling is 10' tall in my listening room. I could have gone one more 12" module high if I wanted. This will be the close to the 87" tall line arrays when they are done.

Phil A,
Thanks! Had lots of fun with glue and clamps!

Hi HAL,
it would be interesting to have picture of you or someone else
climbing the ladder or at top of the 8' ladder with one block at arm length
struggling to put it on top.
Just joking, I am sure you will do the erection in a safe manner.

Guy 13

Tyson · « **Reply #233 on:** 21 Apr 2015, 03:21 am »

Quote from: Guy 13 on 21 Apr 2015, 02:18 am

Hi HAL,
it would be interesting to have picture of you or someone else
climbing the ladder or at top of the 8' ladder with one block at arm length
struggling to put it on top.
Just joking, I am sure you will do the erection in a safe manner.

Guy 13

Well, if it lasts longer than 4 hours he should contact his doctor.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #234 on:** 21 Apr 2015, 04:49 am »

I just can't wait for Christmas when we see them decorated with lights and an angel on top cuz you can't fit a Christmas tree in the room

Seriously, they are coming along nicely Rich
As for the glue and clamps, that's what's it's all about man , FUN

jay

HAL · « **Reply #235 on:** 21 Apr 2015, 11:00 am »

Quote from: Tyson on 21 Apr 2015, 03:21 am

Well, if it lasts longer than 4 hours he should contact his doctor.

LOL!

S Clark · « **Reply #236 on:** 21 Apr 2015, 01:36 pm »

Quote from: Tyson on 21 Apr 2015, 03:21 am

Well, if it lasts longer than 4 hours he should contact his doctor.

Guy can be pretty dang funny when he's not trying.

HAL · « **Reply #237 on:** 21 Apr 2015, 04:33 pm »

I see that there is a dark tint base for Duratex at this point in a 1 gallon size.

Anybody tried it in another color than black? Maybe dark red or maroon?

Also can you use a standard roller for a non-textured surface?

HAL · « **Reply #238 on:** 29 Apr 2015, 09:35 pm »

Ordered the 16 Neutrik Speakon 4 pole connectors for the 6x12" array's. Connector and plug for each module and one set for each amp.

Using 14awg stranded copper wire that will be as short as possible to keep the DC resistance down and time delay low for the connections.

gab · « **Reply #239 on:** 30 Apr 2015, 06:38 pm »

Quote from: HAL on 21 Apr 2015, 04:33 pm

Also can you use a standard roller for a non-textured surface?

I used their "spray" mixture with a very thin nap roller and got a very lightly textured finish (but not a satin smooth finish like Ruben produces with his spray gun). I'd call the Duratex people up for advice on what you are after - they are very helpful!

gab