[ismarketing]

Anybody else have trouble with their IDA-8 "missing" commands from the remote?  I often have trouble muting, and turning the amp on and off (mostly off).  I've tried both stock remotes and a Logitech Harmony, and have the same issue.

Thanks.

[Armaegis]

How far away are you? Do you have direct line-of-sight? I've never had any trouble with mine, but I keep a relatively short range and clear sight.

[mresseguie]

My IDA-8 came with two remotes - one is 'regular' looking and the other is 'credit card' style. I don't use the regular looking remote because the battery dies within days. I use the credit card remote. The battery lasts for months. I only experience issues when the battery is low. I replace it when this happens.

Change the battery or use the other remote.

Are you directly in front of the amp or off to the side?

[ismarketing]

Thanks guys.  Direct line of site, and no more than 10 feet away.  Same issue regardless of the remote I try, or battery freshness, so I'm thinking its a bad receiver in the amp.  Before I call the dealer, any other thoughts?

Thanks

[John Casler]

Thanks guys.  Direct line of site, and no more than 10 feet away.  Same issue regardless of the remote I try, or battery freshness, so I'm thinking its a bad receiver in the amp.  Before I call the dealer, any other thoughts?

Thanks

As with "any" computer, there may be an occasional blip.

Try un-plugging and then plugging it back in, and allow it to reboot.

I had this happen once on mine, when I left it on all the time, rather than powering down.

It is my thought that living where I live, some stray, strange command may have caused it.

But, try shutting down via rear panel switch, un-plugging for a minute, then powering back up.

I would also suggest powering down after each use.

[ismarketing]

Thanks John, I'll try to power cycle.  Other than that, while I appreciate your suggestions, they strike me as far too fiddly.  I expect the remote to simply work, w/o any special steps or considerations like power cycling every time I use the amp.

[John Casler]

Thanks John, I'll try to power cycle.  Other than that, while I appreciate your suggestions, they strike me as far too fiddly.  I expect the remote to simply work, w/o any special steps or considerations like power cycling every time I use the amp.

I think you may have misinterpreted my response.

I am not aware of a single other event as you describe by any other users, and the one I experienced was "only once".

So, if your issue is continuous, then it is likely a "one off" malfunctioning unit, not a normal one.

My suggestion was a "try this" suggestion, since I have seen processors in AVR's, Bluray Players, Streamers, Servers, and other more sophisticated components, on occasion reboot to no further issues.

In these cases, there could be any number of causes, like temporary power failures, stray IR signals, voltage spikes of drops, etc.

My suggestion to "power down" when not in use, was under the possible issue of powerline or voltage vacillation, that could be the problem.  If power stops or drops, it is like turning your computer "off and on" quickly so the the reboot fails.

If your unit doesn't respond, or continues to be "fiddly" it should be looked at and repaired.

[chrisc]

Anybody else have trouble with their IDA-8 "missing" commands from the remote?  I often have trouble muting, and turning the amp on and off (mostly off).  I've tried both stock remotes and a Logitech Harmony, and have the same issue.

Thanks.

I don't have a IDA-8, but a HD-AVP and there are several (at least 5) remote commands that do nothing.  I looked at another HD-AVP and that one worked 100%, so for some reason the IR receiver is faulty, or there is an unknown hardware problem.  I did report it but had no feedback so far

[Ictwoody]

Hey guys and gals. I just got my IDA-8 from John/FedEx today and I have it hooked up and playing. I'm curious about a couple things from other IDA-8 owners.

1. How long does the NuPrime need to burn in? I think I'm hearing a little digital edge on it right now... but I also just put in some brand new 1M Clear Day Shotgun speaker cables at the same time, and being 100% silver and since I've had lots of Paul's cables before (including my entire main system) I know they need some time to settle down. So that could be compounding what I'm hearing a bit. I'll let it play continously until Monday+ to burn them in and the amp.

2. Plugged into my iMac via USB (I assume USB is the preferred digital connection on the desktop? I could use optical instead) this DAC doesn't fix the output volume of my Mac... do you guys max out your computer volume and then just use the volume on the IDA-8? I am using the Tidal desktop app currently to stream. It's volume is at max as well.

- Woody

[audioguy213]

Hey guys and gals. I just got my IDA-8 from John/FedEx today and I have it hooked up and playing. I'm curious about a couple things from other IDA-8 owners.

1. How long does the NuPrime need to burn in? I think I'm hearing a little digital edge on it right now... but I also just put in some brand new 1M Clear Day Shotgun speaker cables at the same time, and being 100% silver and since I've had lots of Paul's cables before (including my entire main system) I know they need some time to settle down. So that could be compounding what I'm hearing a bit. I'll let it play continously until Monday+ to burn them in and the amp.

2. Plugged into my iMac via USB (I assume USB is the preferred digital connection on the desktop? I could use optical instead) this DAC doesn't fix the output volume of my Mac... do you guys max out your computer volume and then just use the volume on the IDA-8? I am using the Tidal desktop app currently to stream. It's volume is at max as well.

- Woody

"Burn-in"
I don't think it is Nuprime specific.
 I like to leave gear on and off in long cycles for about a week before making snap judgements. Another words 5-10 playing sessions of several hours along with sessions of gear turned off.
Playing continuously is good, but the off time is good too IMO.

I maximize volume on my  mac everywhere, and  would use the IDA as volume control with the full strength signal.

[genjamon]

Hey guys and gals. I just got my IDA-8 from John/FedEx today and I have it hooked up and playing. I'm curious about a couple things from other IDA-8 owners.

1. How long does the NuPrime need to burn in? I think I'm hearing a little digital edge on it right now... but I also just put in some brand new 1M Clear Day Shotgun speaker cables at the same time, and being 100% silver and since I've had lots of Paul's cables before (including my entire main system) I know they need some time to settle down. So that could be compounding what I'm hearing a bit. I'll let it play continously until Monday+ to burn them in and the amp.

2. Plugged into my iMac via USB (I assume USB is the preferred digital connection on the desktop? I could use optical instead) this DAC doesn't fix the output volume of my Mac... do you guys max out your computer volume and then just use the volume on the IDA-8? I am using the Tidal desktop app currently to stream. It's volume is at max as well.

- Woody

I'd highly recommend something in between the iMac and the DAC to clean up the power and reclock that USB output.  Wyred Recovery is my preference over the Uptone Regen, but Regens are abundant used these days and can be had for around $100.  Well worth it, but they do respond very favorably to higher quality power than what their wallwarts supply.  But even with the cheapo wall warts powering them, these units will significantly clean up that USB signal and remove a good bit of digititus. 

Another option would be the new generation of XMOS USB to SPDIF converters - this one is externally powered so as to be able to provide it clean power from a non-computer source: http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/audio-kits/111-xmos-192khz-high-quality-usb-to-spdif-with-ultralow-noise-1uv-regulator-wmanual-power-switch.html

While the F-1 unit is powered by USB bus: http://www.ebay.com/itm/F-1-XMOS-USB-Digital-Interface-Module-XU208-U8-upgraded-version-/111961717820

F-1 will not sound as good if powered by your computer-based USB bus.  I have one, and it works great, but it's getting clean power through a HDPlex LPS powered microRendu.  In this configuration, the F-1 does things that the WfS Recovery can't in further improving the signal of the USB output of the microRendu.

[Ictwoody]

Hmmm... a reclocker is something I've been curious about, perhaps I'll give one a try. So you think that the USB input into the NuPrime is definitely the preferred input? Is the included power supply with the Wyred adequate? Or do you like an upgraded power supply there as well?

- Woody

[genjamon]

Power supply upgrade on the Recovery would definitely help, but I thought its stock supply was definitely good enough to hear solid improvement over the Regen with an LPS. 

I don't have the Nuprime, and can't comment which input is better.  I can only tell you the F-1 with new generation of XMOS USB input circuits is doing good things compared with the microRendu straight into my Lampi Big7's USB input.  I'm interpreting that result to indicate the new XMOS circuits are better than the USB input circuitry Lampi has in my 1year old DAC.  Could be worth trying as well, but a lot of folks are liking these units compared with even highly tweaked/refined USB signals.

I don't want to derail the thread with USB tweaks or anything, but in my experience getting noise out of the digital feed and careful reclocking are critical to getting rid of digititus and creating realism in digital reproduction. 

I also agree that time on the cables, and burning in the unit itself could help your initial complaints - in addition to the above.

[Ictwoody]

I also agree that time on the cables, and burning in the unit itself could help your initial complaints - in addition to the above.

No complaints. Just EARLY observation. I'm going to run this thing in for 100-150 hrs and then listen critically. There's a lot of variables at the moment so I won't be jumping to any conclusions.

Time will tell, but I think it's going to be good.

- Woody

[John Casler]

1. How long does the NuPrime need to burn in? I think I'm hearing a little digital edge on it right now... but I also just put in some brand new 1M Clear Day Shotgun speaker cables at the same time, and being 100% silver and since I've had lots of Paul's cables before (including my entire main system) I know they need some time to settle down. So that could be compounding what I'm hearing a bit. I'll let it play continously until Monday+ to burn them in and the amp.

I sent you a private email mentioning this, but will post here too.

Going to a new more detailed and transparent  component, and adding highly revealing Silver Cables at the same time, might be what you are hearing.

Silver cables have a more detailed transfer, and take a while to settle down or bloom.

Actually since the IDA-8 ends up being more tube-like, the eventual marriage when all is burned in, should be a good one. 

[audioguy213]

USB???
por que???

Optical out!


Get a Lifatec glass optical ASAP my man:

http://www.lifatec.com/toslink2.html


Stop the USB nonsense - what you need three extra cables, a reclocker, two wall wart power supplies - sounds like an easy way to fall down a rabbit hole to me.

[Ictwoody]

USB???
por que???

Optical out!


Get a Lifatec glass optical ASAP my man:

http://www.lifatec.com/toslink2.html


Stop the USB nonsense - what you need three extra cables, a reclocker, two wall wart power supplies - sounds like an easy way to fall down a rabbit hole to me.

From an input/decoding standpoint is there any reason to prefer one input over another on the IDA-8?

- Woody

[JackD]

Woody

If DSD is not a concern the optical is the simplist.

[Ictwoody]

Woody

If DSD is not a concern the optical is the simplist.

Here in my office I pretty much never play super high res files... in fact... most of the time I'm just streaming Tidal or listening to podcasts. So perhaps in my situation Optical might be the simplest way to get the 1's and 0's into the NuPrime.

- Woody

[genjamon]

USB???
por que???

Optical out!


Get a Lifatec glass optical ASAP my man:

http://www.lifatec.com/toslink2.html


Stop the USB nonsense - what you need three extra cables, a reclocker, two wall wart power supplies - sounds like an easy way to fall down a rabbit hole to me.

You'll get no debate from me that it's a rabbit hole.  But I'm pretty sure Toslink connections have their own liabilities.  And there are cheap and easy ways to do some basic isolation and/or reclocking in USB - you don't have to go deep into the rabbit hole if you're not as curious as Alice.  IME improving your digital supply can be as significant as a major component upgrade.  If the Nuprime is of sufficient quality, and from those of you on this thread it does seem like it is, then it will benefit greatly from attention to digital supply.