[Danny Richie]

Mike, just pull the wire through the hole and strip the tip of it. Then use some alligator clips to temporarily connect it to your speaker cables. Sure it won't sound quite as good, but it will play. 

[Danny Richie]

I'm a bit puzzled by the passive compensation filter part of this project, appreciate if someone could set me straight.
My goal is to simply have reasonably good audio on my computer desk when I'm using the Mac -- and, of course, to have fun building one of Danny's speaker designs.
The source will be the Mac, for amplification I'll use an inexpensive Dayton DTA-120 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800 or comparable Class-T unit.
Clearly, I've no high end interests with these modest requirements and a commensurable modest budget.

For this usage and configuration, is a filter necessary, and if so, what kind do I need?

The compensation filter compensates for baffle step loss. It doesn't matter what you use it with. See complete kit pic:



Now, if you want to roll the lows off so you can increase headroom and drive them harder and louder then that's a different thing. This can be done in a number of ways.

[Danny Richie]

Al, I have been thinking about these:



And I have compared these to the old 871's.



These new drivers sound much better.    I was stunned by just how good they sound.

[S Clark]

Oops. Wrong thread.

[Jonathon Janusz]

Danny, just for those who will likely ask, did putting a platinum cap in there in place of the sonicap (or a bypass on the cap in in the kit) improve things enough to justify adding a few dollars to the project?  I would think that with a single driver speaker with the minimal parts count here that the type/quality of the few parts that are used would make an even bigger difference than with maybe some of the more elaborate designs? 

I know this kit is aimed at being a bang-for-the-buck kind of deal, but I figured it wouldn't take long for somebody around here to ask.

[Danny Richie]

Danny, just for those who will likely ask, did putting a platinum cap in there in place of the sonicap (or a bypass on the cap in in the kit) improve things enough to justify adding a few dollars to the project?  I would think that with a single driver speaker with the minimal parts count here that the type/quality of the few parts that are used would make an even bigger difference than with maybe some of the more elaborate designs? 

I know this kit is aimed at being a bang-for-the-buck kind of deal, but I figured it wouldn't take long for somebody around here to ask.

I have not tried by-passing the single Sonicap with a Platinum. It can certainly be done for the guy that wants to extract the last ounce of resolution and detail out of them. A couple of .022 Platinum's would be a good choice and are $36 a piece.

[Danny Richie]

Here is a good quality but low cost way of adding a high pass filter to these things.

You can add a small value Gen.2 Sonicap in line with your amplifier input or pre-amp output. Here are some values and costs. These are all 600VDC caps. The high value rating is not necessary but it is what's available in these small values.

0.01µF    $4.15
0.015µF  $5.28
0.022µF  $5.28
0.033µF  $5.28
0.056µF  $5.28
0.068µF  $5.28
0.075µF  $5.28
0.1µF      $6.11

You'll need to know the input impedance of your amp to get the right value needed. Get me that information and I'll calculate the value for you.

You can mount these internally in an amp or pre-amp or make an inline plug and play type addition using a male and female RCA plug. Good quality connectors are highly recommended.

[dBe]

I'm a bit puzzled by the passive compensation filter part of this project, appreciate if someone could set me straight.
My goal is to simply have reasonably good audio on my computer desk when I'm using the Mac -- and, of course, to have fun building one of Danny's speaker designs.
The source will be the Mac, for amplification I'll use an inexpensive Dayton DTA-120 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800 or comparable Class-T unit.
Clearly, I've no high end interests with these modest requirements and a commensurable modest budget.

For this usage and configuration, is a filter necessary, and if so, what kind do I need?

Oops.. Pudgy, fudge fingers. 

[dBe]

That is the amp I use for my desktop system in my office.  Not bad...

Dave

[dBe]

Mike, not to waste veneer, if you are going to build a pair for yourself anyway, why not mock them up without veneer for her to demo, then finish as appropriate afterward, or would she be hoping to take them with her after the demo?

RAW, those lifestyle speakers look very cool, but I was distracted by the sweet looking amps!  Dodds, I presume?  Any closer pics and/or details?

DAVE!!!!!!    I have to send you an email later.

Danny,  I read the webpage for the new drivers quickly, and it stated these are good in OB as midwoofers.  Do the highs roll off to much in OB to run full range in that configuration or is it something else?

. . . and, yep, paging JP to the courtesy phone.  Seeing some of his past projects, these look like his kind of cool. 

Hit me.

Dave

[jparkhur]

Yes. I would build some slabs with holes in them.  Like the monoliths.    Danny would have to point us in a good direction.    Bdaniels could cnc the crap out of these too

[RAW]

Al, I have been thinking about these:



And I have compared these to the old 871's.



These new drivers sound much better.    I was stunned by just how good they sound.

I can see a system like this above with the new driver

[cody69]

I'm a bit puzzled by the passive compensation filter part of this project, appreciate if someone could set me straight.
My goal is to simply have reasonably good audio on my computer desk when I'm using the Mac -- and, of course, to have fun building one of Danny's speaker designs.
The source will be the Mac, for amplification I'll use an inexpensive Dayton DTA-120 https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-digital-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800 or comparable Class-T unit.
Clearly, I've no high end interests with these modest requirements and a commensurable modest budget.

For this usage and configuration, is a filter necessary, and if so, what kind do I need?

The compensation filter compensates for baffle step loss. It doesn't matter what you use it with. See complete kit pic:

This helps clear it up -- I was confusing the purpose of the compensation filter with the in-line RCA filter being discussed in the other thread.

[mlundy57]

Mike, just pull the wire through the hole and strip the tip of it. Then use some alligator clips to temporarily connect it to your speaker cables. Sure it won't sound quite as good, but it will play.

Danny,

Thanks,

Mike

[S Clark]

One of mine is playing as I type.  Threw a box together, put in some padding, built a quick network, and it's now playing a Brahms sonata.  The box is held together with duct tape and rubber bands, the port is the wrong length, but it still plays a very beautiful violin- kills the little Polks that usually sit by my computer as far as tone. Tomorrow is the day for glue up and soldering.   
Scott

[Folsom]

One of mine is playing as I type.  Threw a box together, put in some padding, built a quick network, and it's now playing a Brahms sonata.  The box is held together with duct tape and rubber bands, the port is the wrong length, but it still plays a very beautiful violin- kills the little Polks that usually sit by my speakers as far as tone. Tomorrow is the day for glue up and soldering.   
Scott

 

Sounds like me, the patients thing never set in real hard.

[mlundy57]

My first set of boxes have the NoRez installed (I had some left over) are glued up, trimmed and sanded, just waiting for the kits to arrive.  I am taking y'alls advice and not finishing these until after my step daughter listens to them.

Mike

[Danny Richie]

I shipped out a lot of these in the last few days. I am sure many of you will be seeing them soon.

[jparkhur]

Danny,

Could you provide these dimensions if possible.  Need to cut some wood.... Or at lease the numbers that matter to cut holes and sub sets.

[baniels]

I don't have all of those measurements on hand, but this should get you in the right direction. This is what I used for the flatpacks. With a depth of 0.12" for the recess. You can ignore the notch and just drill out some spots for the terminals once you identify where they need to go.