AudioCircle
Other Stuff => Archived Manufacturer Circles => Aspen Amplifiers => Topic started by: AKSA on 27 Mar 2004, 03:13 am
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Folks,
In response to the request for the AKSA Gallery, John and I have reached a solution.
Since Audio Circle sponsors a gallery, and since I have a testimonial/gallery page at the AKSAonline website, he suggested, and I agreed, that we use the AC Gallery supplied. It will be filled with gear from other people's projects, not just Aspen, but hey, that's great for variety!
I propose that each time someone posts something to the gallery, they notify other AKSAphiles in this thread, and inform the page number on which the pictures can be found.
Presently we have JohnR, Aliseo, Rocket, Jens, Echidna, Dayneger, TonyM, Blizzard, PaulB, Martin, and RegisB. All are identified as AKSAs, enjoy!!
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/modules.php?op=modload&name=gallery&file=index
Cheers,
Hugh
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Maybe if folks wanted to post a link to their AKSA galleries, and include the thumbnail, that might be the most accessible way for others to get to the AKSA projects. For example:
Double White -- my pair of AKSA 55Ns
(http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/albuo50/double.thumb.jpg)
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;user=3
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You can find my AKSA 100N pictures and chassis building ideas
Here (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=13) . along with some progress of my GK-1R (non remote in the picture)
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All the Aspen Amplifier products to be found in the gallery, newest first, oldest last, some with a lot of detail, some with the barest minimum, but all a worthy place in this library of ideas and techniques used in construction. Take a look ;-)
Hugh's (AKSA's) own amp:
AKSA 100N+ (chassis with integrated heatsinks also for sale through Aspen Amps) (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=393)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3760) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3761) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3762)
User built Aspen Products - Newest entry first:
PSP's AKSA and GK1 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=490)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4623) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4624)
Honda95's AKSA 100 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=469)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4469) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4470) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2215) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4473)
Jules' Wooden AKSA 55 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=465)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4400) (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/albur20/Im000892.thumb.jpg) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4399) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4398)
Lost81's AKSA TLP and 4xAKSA 100n monoblocks (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=50)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2029) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=416) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4372) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=418) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=419)
Noel T's AKSonics and AKSA55 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=456)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4303) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4305) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4306) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4307)
Seano's toys (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=285)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2783) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2784) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2785)
SamL's AKSA 100 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=108)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=1702)
Rom's Clear GK-1 and ASKA 55n+ (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=442)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4172) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4173) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4179) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4183)
Pea's AKSA 100N+ monoblocks (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=438)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4119) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4118)
Lonewolf's AKSA (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=434)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4085) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4086) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2766)
Ron's AKSA Kit (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=422)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3994) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3995) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3996) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3997) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3998)
Brownee's AKSA 55 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=395)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3766) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3771) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3769) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3767)
Zackslc's AKSA 55 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=386)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3682) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3684) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3681)
Kyrill's AKSA 55 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=279)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=233)
ghamel's AKSA 100 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=258)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2501) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2502) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2506) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2507)
Ian's GK-1mp (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=293)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2887) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2888) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=960)
CMScott's Aspen Collection (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=326)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3125) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3128) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3130) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3134)
Fos's GK-1 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=277)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2726) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2728) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2729)
Jen's GK-1 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=270)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2667) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2668)
Martin's AKsonics and TLP (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=263)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2545) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2546) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2549)
Dayneger's GK-1 Concepts (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=172)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=1372) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=1373)
PaulB's AKSA Amps (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=33)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=287) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=286) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=285)
Aliseo's AKSA 100N (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=153)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=1174) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=1176)
TonyB's AKSA and Aksonics (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=136)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=1083)
Blizzard's GK-1m (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=3008)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/album26/PIC_6184.thumb.jpg) (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/album26/PIC_6186.thumb.jpg)
RegisB's GK-1 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=98)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=800) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=801)
Martin's wooden boxes (AKSA 100 and TLP) (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=67)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=533) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=530) (http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=528)
Oz_Audio's GK-1 and AKSA 55 (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/modules.php?set_albumName=album84&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/album84/GK1_Internal1.thumb.jpg) (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/album84/55_Internal1.thumb.jpg) (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/album84/Phono_Pre_55_GK1a.thumb.jpg)
JohnR's AKSA 55 construction journey (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;user=3)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2218) (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/albuo50/resistors.thumb.jpg) (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/albuo50/bench.thumb.jpg) (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/albuo50/inside2.thumb.jpg) (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/albuo50/double.thumb.jpg)
As far as I can tell, that's about it in the gallery at the moment! - apart from mine which you can see below...
Looking forward to more inspiration ;-) keep posting your pics!
now Hugh, can you get Propstuff and a few of the old guys from HD to post some of their pics here?
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Hi Glen,
BRILLIANT!! How'd ya do it?? Many thanks!!
I will speak to Nicholas (Propstuff). He needs a good talking to...... :lol:
Cheers,
Hugh
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I've added some images but I still haven't sorted my AKSA photos yet. Hopefully this weekend. Will these do in the meantime?
(http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/galleryimage.php/albuo66/THEPIG_F.jpg)
The gallery is athttp://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=285
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Hi people,
Here's my AKSA 55 pics site:
http://community.webshots.com/user/motesart
Hats off to Hugh Dean :)
moises a.k.a dogears
philippines
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Hello everyone.
I have just added some wiring pictures of my 55W-N en de GK1-M on my webpage:
http://users.pandora.be/bertmahieu/index.htm
hope you'll like them.
Bert
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Bert,
Beautifully made and presented; congratulations!
Thank you for showing it all to us; a wonderful collection.
Do you have any comments about the GK1 and its effect on the sonics?
Cheers,
Hugh
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g'day all,
have just updated a couple photos, of my gk1r.....the aluminium knob needs to be remachined and anodised as i dropped it when removing it from the lathe and it now has a couple dents and scratches....aluminium is so soft before anodising. :?
as for the sound it has added body to my sound! 8)
to access use the link in echidnas post.
speakers now..............
oorroo
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Finally got around to taking some basic digital pics of my AKSA stuff...
Thanks for everyone's advice and suggestions in this journey!
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=326
Chris
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With encouragement from Hugh I have finally borrowed a digital camera and posted these photos of my gk-1.
It has a 5mm brass top from which I was going to suspend the analogue pcb with blind tapped screws ...the blind tapping was ok but the wiring and hinging proved 'awkward' involving longer flexible looms...which also goes against the 'shortest signal path' idea... The knobs and the switch cap I turned from brass rod...the case is 1.2mm steel sheet clad in tasmanian blackwood and oiled...the tranny caps give a pleasing retro look but are not strictly needed for the case depth I used...they do however increase the distance between the metal top and the mains wiring!
There are clearances to consider in the gk-1m as I built it with the extender bars passing under the upturned analogue board ... a little slimmer is possible and then the tranny caps would be essential...
The sound is sublime....the gk-1 not only gives me much greater volume control at low levels than was possible with my non-preamped aksa 100w system but it also adds soul.......the 'icing on the cake' is the wonderfully musicality of the phono section.....
Thanks Hugh
Cheers,
Ian
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/modules.php?op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
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Ian, there is no pictures in your gallery at the moment!
it all sounds good though ;-)
a little like my own GK-1 design that is still awaiting the facia to be deemed complete... *sigh*
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sorry about the dud link....try this..
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=293
Cheers
Ian
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sorry about the dud link....try this..
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=293
Cheers
Ian
WOW !! Great job on your GK-1....super !!!!!!! :thumb:
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updated the index post ....
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My turn! Here's my take on a 100N.
http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=2501
To save 4 weeks of wait time for my transformers (and to preserve my window of construction while the wife was out of town!) I went with Hammond toroidals instead of the Plitrons that I originally intended. This combination is blessed by Hugh as sweet sounding and only slightly lower power output (but more current in fact), but I didn't catch the fact that the Hammonds are ever so slightly larger in diameter.
To make everything fit (and everything JUST fits!) I had to carve out a wee bit of the heatsink mounting ledge for each channel. Great way to spend an afternoon.
For a power indicator i settled on a 'light bar' approach using a a 120VAC (no inverter) green electroluminescent strip. This shines through a 3/8" x 11" notch in the aluminum front panel. Machining this (using a plunge router ever so carefully!) is another highly recommended way to spend an afternoon :) No margin for error.. My nerves are shot!
Next up, a GK-1R!
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=258
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ghamel's AKSA 100 added to the index post on page 1.
Almost getting to the stage of having to put a *56k users beware!* warning on the thread title!
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Hi Greg, Glen,
Thanks to both of you for posting the pics, and taking such an interest in organizing the collection!
Ian, one of the nicest GK1s I've seen. Beautiful work, very classy, with a bespoke look no one could resist.....
Greg, beautiful work, very nicely done, really like the use of Umbrakos to hold down the sink and power supply pcbs.
Masterful mounting of the two large toroids; very compact and neat.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Well, I added my (now obsolete configuration) AKSA 55 picture for its configuration.
Nice are the extreme short leads for input and output as the pcb's are less than half an inch from the backpanels.
Now I am building wooden enclosures shielded by silverpaint and silver-leaves and separate wooden enclosures for the power, where the trafo's are.
pictures will come in due time ( http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=279 )
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=233)
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updated first page with Kyrill's AKSA.
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Thank you muchly, Glen,
Much appreciated. Kyrill will be pleased too!!
Cheers,
Hugh
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(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3680)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3681)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3682)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3683)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=3684)
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hi Zachsic
your configuration is identical to mine: ) Now you can use the heatsink as a shield against the toroids when grounded.
Kyrill
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I finally added my AKSA photos. I haven't taken any shots of the inside yet... but they'll be there eventually.
Here's my Gallery images. (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=361)
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Does the ON/OFF switch on the front come with the kit? If it doesn't, what does it have to be rated for? It seems like a nice heavy duty switch....I also need one for my tube preamp that i am building so I wouldn't mind knowing what the specs are on this one.
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I'm using a 3-position switch made by Arco. I can swap neutral for hot with this switch. I bought it from Hugh. I know it's availabe in the U.S... just can't remember where.
The power switch is not included in the kit, though.
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Does the ON/OFF switch on the front come with the kit? If it doesn't, what does it have to be rated for? It seems like a nice heavy duty switch....I also need one for my tube preamp that i am building so I wouldn't mind knowing what the specs are on this one.
Hi Josh,
This (http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=402771&e_categoryid=143&e_pcodeid=69104) might work.
I ordered these for my AKSA 100 N monoblocks.
(No, I haven't installed these switches yet.
Advanced apologies for bad spelling (if any)--I've got a couple bottles of chianti in my system right now :thankyou:
-Lost81
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Benny,
Paul is right; I have on/off/on switches suitable for this very application. They cost $AUD8, about $US5.60, but please don't ask me to post a picture here, too much braindamage on a Sunday!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Folks,
I've just added three good photos of an AKSA 100W N+ to the gallery, on page 28 here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=393
This is the same case as the audition amplifier presently winging its way around the US. Very strong, nicely powder coated, front panel is 5mm thick aluminium, mushroom head Allen studs to secure the top panel, all laser cut holes/slots, LEDs are both High Efficiency blues.
It's possible to trace every wire in the first photo; this should be helpful for anyone assembling a 100W AKSA. Note the epoxy holding wires in place on the toroids and the power supply pcb.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Wow! :o
Very nice and clean lines, Hugh!
Wish I had this model to follow when I was building mine :mrgreen:
-Lost81
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Simple and beautiful
The sticker is a ehh.. a matter of taste :|
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Hi Hugh,
Do you sell the finished front place like the one which is shown in the picture?
That is one of the best finished aksa's i have seen.
regards
rocket
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Very very nice. On looks alone you should sell buckets. Very much worth the effort put into the CAD and CNC part of the project.
Like very much the logo. Very classy. Major improvement on the old decal. Can I get a copy for my impending case upgrade? PLEASE!!!
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Sean,
Thank you for your comments. Off to the metal work man to have another 25 of these boxes made. I like 'em too, very strong, quite elegant.
The logo was created by a retired Director of Art and Graphic design at BHP. I think it is terrific too. Jeff Rompala, who hails from Boise Idaho and is U4EA on this forum, burned the logo onto a number of small pieces of timber at a friend's laser installation. Through my good friend DSK (Darren) here in Melbourne we have ordered a number laser-etched onto stainless steel, and this should be suitable for metal glueing onto any front panel.
Rod, yes, I have a few front panels; all are power sanded aluminium, powder coated satin black. I have just enough for about 10 boxes; they are sold together.
Slowly, inch by inch, Aspen is becoming more professional and consumer oriented. Production costs are always the issue, but to some extent this is circumvented by cunning design.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Hi Hugh,
I will see if i can pony up and buy one of these in a couple of weeks.
I was thinking of putting the aksa into my old n.e.w. chassis but the chassis you sells with power coating will look pretty good imo.
Can i buy the power switch from you? Will you have any logos left over?
regards
rod
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Excellent Photos!
Very professional.
Martin
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all updated again on the first page 8)
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Thank you Glen,
You shame me.........!!
Hugh
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Hugh,
Very very nice professional looking amplifier.
This is the future for Aksa, I would hope.
Great logo!!!
Steve
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Hi all
Thought I would post some pics of my very first Aksa 55. :D
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=395
Thanks
Brownee
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Brownee,
Beautifully made! You have done a wonderful job, and I congratulate you for great attention to detail and quality workmanship.
Are you pleased with the sound?
Cheers,
Hugh
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Hi Hugh, thanks for the comments.
I am new to the HiFi scene so I don’t have a great deal of experience in what to expect. I must say though that I am very impressed by what I am hearing even on some cheapo speakers. (bookshelf Jaycar’s). What impresses me the most is the imaging that I am hearing. Vocals /music seems to hang mid air and doesn’t seem to come from the speakers. I am 80% through building my Aksonics so should be able to get a better idea of what the amp can do when there up and running. Any news on the Aksentre? I am also very interested in the sub you have in development.
Thanks
Lyndon
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Hi all
Thought I would post some pics of my very first Aksa 55. :D
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=395
Thanks
Brownee
Brownee, That's a great looking AKSA !! Could you tell me what binding posts you have installed on the amp...thanks !! :)
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Hi lonewolfny42
Speaker binding posts? They are from “Jaycar Electronics”. They are gold plated and have a clear plastic case. Here is the link.
http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP0436&CATID=&keywords=speaker&SPECIAL=&form=KEYWORD&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=
They are great to use but are a bit expensive.
See Ya
Lyndon
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They resemble the WBT Mid-line Series of Binding Posts, at 25% of the price :o
I wonder if they use the same material for the clear plastic as WBT though (Lexan™).
Not that it matters sonically :lol:
-Lost81
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Thanks !! Reminds me of the binding posts on my Von Schweikert speakers.... easy to work with. :)
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Beware the binding posts. I used Jaycar binding posts on my AKSA 55 and my speakers.
I got rid of them, soldering my speaker leads directly to the AKSA power boards and the speaker lugs. A great improvement.
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Well done Brownee.
You have eyes to find God in the details.
Germans say "Der Teufel" but they mainly main the trouble to get there.
: )
Kyrill
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? I got no idea what you are saying there Kyrill!
anyway, updated the first post again ;-)
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? I got no idea what you are saying there Kyrill!
anyway, updated the first post again ;-)
Hi Glen
"God is in the details" is the finishing touch. This way quality transcends functionality.
Read "Zen and the art of Motorcycle maintenance. from Pirsig
Quality in designing is not in the details but in the simplicity of the design,
Quality in the structural expression of the design is in those details.
German and Swiss manufacturing have this "love" for details. But this love to incorporate minute details is cumbersome and asks for focus and attention. It is hard. So the Germans call the it the opposite of God: Der Teufel (The Devil) steckt im detail
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Kyrill,
Thanks for your description, very clear. I believe the English translates this German very well, we say 'The Devil is in the Detail'.
Same thing exactly, though lacking the German dramatic sense, and used almost colloquially in English.
I do agree with this sentiment. You see it in the design of most European and a few Japanese automobiles, particularly in the passenger compartment. In US autos, you see it in the bold but simple design of the mechanical comcponents; it is clear that there has been very careful thought about function, then scrupulous attention to fabricating it at lowest cost - witness in particular the GM and Chrysler engines. But my favourite designers are the Italians; they somehow contrive to put soul into their consumer goods. Consider a cappucino machine; from Italy these things are works of art. Italian motorcycles, though at times unreliable (mostly electrical problems), are wonderful to ride, very 'sympatico' with the human spirit. The Japanese bikes are mechanical perfection, beautifully finished, incredibly reliable and handle and brake unbelievably well, but somehow they don't communicate with the rider like the Italian bikes. This is highly abstractive commentary, easily dismissed as bull****, but if you love bikes, cars, industrial art, there is something to it.
I've noticed that good industrial design starts to take on the characteristics of the originating culture. This is never more obvious than with German automobiles, which are extraordinarily refined, tough, and powerful, and, well, functional. (Although I need to be careful here as BMW now employs an American from Ohio to head up their body design team). One could say something similar of Scandinavian cars too, which are not the same, but certainly they clearly reflect the culture.
Cheers,
Hugh
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One has to be so diplomatic here with critiques of international design :) . Bold designs seem to come out of a nations self assurance (which might explain why there hasn't been a notable automotive design out of England since the C type Jaguar ... so much for the diplomatic approach).
This debate has raised an important point about amp design. Cars, planes, domestic appliances and many other items have their shape defined by their function to a certain extent. Complimenting this, it is also true in that it is possible to imply something about the function of any of these items by giving them a particular shape. By contrast there is no shape that says ampilifier and no reason why an amp shouldn't be made in any shape from a ball to a box. The choice of material is similarly open.
I'm working on some box designs myself at the moment and my own feeling is that since the function of an amp is to produce music, the design should attempt to show this rather than just looking like a technical solution to the containment of a collection of electronic parts. I'm not saying an amp should be in the shape of a G cleff or some sort of horn but I do think wood has a place and also that there is scope beyond the classic flat box design.
What do others think :?:
Jules
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design wise there is just so many potentials out there!
my own choice of materials has changed a lot over the past few years, with a prefernce for "mixed media" verses a former love of just aluminium...
finally I'm getting somewhere on my GK-1 chassis, which will be closely followed by some alterations to my AKSA 100 chassis to make the two complimentary. The end product will hopefully be like nothing on the market, yet still identifiable!
my personal skills are nothing compared to some of the AKSA builders of yore: www.propstuff.com.au for example!
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One of the greatest handbrakes of innovative amplifier case design particularily in kits like the AKSA is the heatsink.
Without that rather ugly lump of alloy, our amps will have the lifespan of a box of matches. But the only heatsinks out there available to the DIY/small volume market have all the aesthetic appeal of a house brick. Solid, purposeful, has potential but hardly exciting.
The trick (and this is where people like propstuff come in) is to find an aesthetic way of keeping an amp cool AND integrate that aesthetic into the case design. To my mind this is a largely undiscussed and undiscovered aspect of DIY audio. There are a huge number of people out there innovating and augmenting audio circuit designs but naff all really investing themselves into the appearance of their amps.
Dare I say that this is because visual design is really hard to do and then it's harder still to turn that vision into reality. Hell I find it easy to visualise a decent cup of coffee from the local bakery but they always seem to find a way to dissappoint me. And something similar often happens in my workshop.
I suggest that those of us that can't really contribute to the circuitry debate (apart from the odd loopy comment or perhaps reality check) invest themselves further into the rather esoteric territory of heatsinks. Cause these are one mousetrap that really needs some work.
A quick look about took me to Rod Elliot who has obviously thought about heatsinks for a bit. Good place to start http://sound.westhost.com/heatsinks.htm
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Yes ... agree with that Sean. In particular the heat sink is probably the one item that does say amplifier. Black Gates might be totally brilliant but they have all the visual appeal of a badly designed torch battery. Fins have always been used as something of a design statement on motorbikes and I reckon they have potential. I'm also slightly uneasy about having them enclosed in a case, particularly in Australian conditions. I accept that it's probably quite ok but it just seems wrong to reduce their efficency in any way. I haven't had time to read the Rod Elliot stuff but it looks interesting.
On the positive side for DIY builders it is now possible to reasonably cheaply express ideas in metal via CAD and laser cutting.
More later
Jules
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Well ...
I like the heatsinks Hugh supplies very much.
I like the heatsinks around the motor combustion compartment of a motorcycle. But they must be black I like the heatsinks around an amplifier
They suggest to me action and power. In a sense their simplicity is beautiful
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Oh I like Hugh's heatsinks well enough. And I'm fully aware of the paradigm of heatsinks & amplifiers. It is just that for all the innovation of circuit design, topology and components over the last umpteen years those bloody heatsinks haven't altered a jot. And therefore neither has the visual appearance of the average amp. It is still usually a slab sided box. The only design innovation has been in the frilly bits that hang off them.
I'm not sure what the answer is but if I poke about with a pointed stick then something might come up. :D I'm not advocating building Bose clones but a likttle innovation by us DIYers can really go places.
Make no mistake though. There are still many boxy amps whose design I quite like. For example, I wouldn't object to a couple of MacIntosh amps in the loungeroom simply for the look of things (and of course the knowledge that I was wealthy enough to actually afford the things - not bloody likely :mrgreen: ).
So here's the rub. Why are amp heatsinks shaped the way they are? Cause they've always been is not a satisfactory answer to my mind
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It's about time my Aksa gear was introduced to the world, so here's another gallery entry:
My Aksa Kit (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=422)
If I can keep the GK-1 switched off for long enough, I'll get some pics of the internal layout.
Cheers!
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Ron thats absolutely gorgeous..
What did you use for the power buttons? They look like touch sensors.. Ditto for the input selectors - are they commercial switches or homegrown?
I've been considering doing something similar with lighted indicators/selectors, to avoid the need for labels on the panel. Can you provide any sources or guidance for the less capable?
Thanks!
It's about time my Aksa gear was introduced to the world, so here's another gallery entry:
My Aksa Kit (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=422)
If I can keep the GK-1 switched off for long enough, I'll get some pics of the internal layout.
Cheers!
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i agree
Very professional and sleek
also the inside
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Thanks guys, you're too kind. :oops:
The Power buttons are stainless steel momentary-contact "Vandal-proof" switches from RS. I use them to remotely switch 16A impulse relays, so I can keep the mains path as short as possible.
The selector switches are also from RS, these are momentary types with three-colour LED illumination, which allows the green "background" light, and the yellow "selected" light to be implemented. There's a square area behind the circular button for putting the label. I baulked at the price of these, but decided they were just too good to miss. There are 2 versions, a clear and an opaque, I mistakenly got the opaque ones and then had to polish them clear!
BTW, these won't work with the Hugh-supplied pushbutton PCB. I slightly modified Hugh's design to incorporate them while I was making a version with in-line switches.
RS catalog numbers and pricing (GBP):
Power switches: 240-1231 - £10.86 ea
Impulse Relay: (240V) 244-0040 - £17.37 ea
Selector switches: 301-2781 £5.94 ea
All Plus VAT, of course!
Cheers!
Ron.
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Ron,
This is absolutely gorgeous, exquisitely built and presented! I congratulate you, both for your impeccable design, but your sterling assembly skills. I'm deeply impressed; this stuff is better built, I suspect, than I do myself, and I bet I've built more AKSAs than you!! :lol:
I'm getting close to the Retail GK1, which I shall call the GK1 Swift. It has been design by a three man team and uses Tasmanian Myrtle to marvellous effect. I will post pictures on the website when it's ready for sale. It's been a very long gestation, but it's close now, finally, and I'm just delighted with the results.
Look out Ron, it might rival your own AKSA perfection!! Once again, my sincere congratulations; your work is art. 8)
Cheers,
Hugh
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Okay, when it comes to this sort of stuff I am just one big peanut.. Can some one explain this for me off the spec sheet for the switch.. :oops:
Contact rating 10A 250VAC
5A 28VDC
That is one gorgeous set of Aksas there Ron. The only mods I would do to anything electronic are the unplanned sort :lol:
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Okay, when it comes to this sort of stuff I am just one big peanut.. Can some one explain this for me off the spec sheet for the switch.. :oops:
Contact rating 10A 250VAC
5A 28VDC
That is one gorgeous set of Aksas there Ron. The only mods I would do to anything electronic are the unplanned sort :lol:
Hi soitstarts (nice nick by the way :D ),
It means that your switch is rated for up to 10 Amperes at up to 250V on an AC circuit. The switch is also rated up to 5 Amperes for switching up to 28V on a DC circuit.
For the purpose of switching the AKSAs, it is the Ampere (A) ratings of the AC type of circuit that you are concerned with.
A better switch would be one rated for inductive loads, or, failing at that, 15A, 16A, or 20A for AC. Switches that are speced for inductive loads usually have a HP (horsepower) rating next to their power ratings. These switches are more resistant to the wear and tear that results from switching on and off the toroidal transformers...
Hope this helps :mrgreen:
-Lost81
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Thanks for that, Dang.
The bit that messed me around was the higher rating for a 240v load. I didn't realise that AC or DC would have such a big bearing on the the amp rating.
I actually had switch a lot like this one but wrecked it when I was trying to mod its stroke so that it would operate a switch from a computer tower, Now I'm not so sure the switch is to use. I am doing all I can to avoid using a toggle. My wife doesnt like the 'those' switches. I nearly put the push button on the front as a dummy and toggle'd the back.
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Thanks for that, Dang.
... I am doing all I can to avoid using a toggle. My wife doesnt like the 'those' switches. I nearly put the push button on the front as a dummy and toggle'd the back.
No problem, dude...
If you really, really want the push button switch, and have space in your chassis for a relay, you can have a tiny 12VDC push button in front, and have it activate a beefy 16A relay that switches on the AC mains. That will introduce additional complexity in wiring and components though; you will need a separate transformer, and power supply for the 12V relay, but such power supplies are plentiful online as well as in electronic supply stores.
The plus side of this approach is that you only need to drill a small hole (1/8" ) for the push-button relay switch, instead of having to cut a large slot for the toggle-switch.
Actually, come to think of it, it is an idea that I might implement for my monoblocks. The machinist hasn't CNC-ed the face-plates for the fat toggle switches yet. It will save me a chunk of change (CNC-ing 3/8" thick aluminium faceplates isn't cheap :mrgreen: ).
As of right now, I am temporarily using 16A 125VAC black DPDT toggle switches from Parts Express (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=060-310), with the unused side blanked off with fully-insulated unconnected spade connectors. The permanent switch is the Carlington Technologies' DPDT switch (http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&D=*691TIGM516SBLNBL*&terms=691-TIGM516SBLNBL&Ntt=*691TIGM516SBLNBL*&Dk=1&Ns=MfgrPartNumber%7c%7cSField&N=0&crc=true), a superior switch from mouser.com (10A @250VAC / 15A@125VAC / 3/4HP 125-250VAC).
-Lost81
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Thanks for the explanation lost81, knowledgable as always.
Soitstarts,
sounds like you own a british car!
I didn't use these switches to power the AKSA, just to switch the 16A relays that power the AKSA. So the 10A rating wasn't a problem as it's only switching the relay coil which draws < 1A for a second or so.
The relays I used have 240V coils, so a transformer isn't needed with these.
The idea came from this list (where would we be without it!), and allows you to use front panel switches that look good, but wouldn't be up to the job of powering the amp.
I hope you manage to find some switches that are acceptable to "'er indoors".
Cheers,
Ron.
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Soitstarts,
sounds like you own a british car!
:rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao: :rotflmao:
-Lost81
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Okay, now you've just got me thinking :wink: ....More questions. BTW, I have a 'leckie mate who is gonna check over my HV side before I can hurt myself. But, if I used a relay, and say, in the future, (Don't tell the missus) built a GK1, could I bridge off the relay to a male plug to power the GK1 from the same switch. Like when your monitor turns on with your case. I may look at that if its possible, I would use this.
http://www.altronics.com.au/cat.asp?cat=14&grp=168&id=P8330
Is it possible? the current draw of the GK1 wouldnt be too high to add to the draw from the amp, would it?
thanks for this, guys.
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Yes you can do it this way, but what is the big deal on having a switch for each component.
I have a switch on each component.
I turned them all on, then left them all on.
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Hey, call me cheap, but 90 bucks is 90 bucks.. :oops:
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Call me old-school and paranoid, but I don't feel comfortable turning on the pre-amplifier and amplifier at the same time. Ideally, I prefer to turn on the pre-amplifier, go brew some coffee or open a bottle of wine, and then when I come back, turn on the amplifier, take a shower, towel off, cook a meal, wait until the Kerry / Bush recount is over, and then pop a CD in there for a serious listen. :jester:
Another thing you might want to consider is that (if I have not misread your post) by having your pre-amplifier power ride on the powercord of the amplifier, it might be affected to some degree by the varying levels of power demanded by the amplifier during performance. Now whether this is audible at all is another matter.
:duel:
Good luck!
-Lost81
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You put it that way..... Ahhhh, hang it. Whats 90 bucks, coupla hours overtime'll do it. :lol:
Thanks for the advice guys.
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Ifall this dedicated super approaches to power switches and so is not only for convenience and looks, but also (primarily) for supporting the system to be
as transparent as possible (among other things) may i assume that you (Benny, Soitstarts.)have prohibited as much as possible the digital components from using the same main current/ groundt as the analogue parts of the system?
quote from Stereophile, but The Absolute Sound has rave reviews of the Pac Idos. I have one too and the difference is another veil of grunge removed
"Around that time digital was recognized as a very different beast that must be separated from analog devices both physically and electrically, so in 1991 came Larry Smith’s PAC-IDOS to show us that digital even needs a separate ground. (Proper grounding constitutes a topic unto itself.)
A few days after the arrival of the speakers, I received a Conrad-Johnson EV20 preamp for review; for most of the listening sessions, I used the EV20, duly compensating for its polarity-inverting line stage. In addition to the VTL Deluxe 225s, amps used included a pair of Bryston 7Bs and an Aragon 4004 Mk.II. The power amps were plugged directly into a dedicated AC line; the rest of the analog electronics were fed from a Mk.Il Tice Power Block, in turn plugged into a PAC IDOS (one of the analog outlets), with the digital transport and D/A converter plugged into the IDOS's digital outlets. The IDOS got its power from a second dedicated AC line.
http://home.earthlink.net/~idos/IDOS.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~idos/
Other wise it is like giving your porsche brand new golden plated relays, but the all the other spade connectors and lugs are contaminated with grunge , oil and metaloxydation, making poor contacts
For the Idos alone I forced a 3 meter (10 feet) copper tube of half an inch diamter into the garden next to my music room as a seperate earth, as the 3 meter is deep enough to reach ground-water. I need seperate earth to ground the chassis of my wooden enclosures
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ok all updated on the first page index post again...
perhaps we should be keeping the discussion of gallery entries in a seperate thread? what do you think Hugh? there is actually an option for spliting the thread into two for moderators like yourself... (for example).
*sigh* on the home front, my GK-1 chassis completion has taken a back seat at the moment (I've got those blardy same switches as Ron sitting in a box waiting for nearly 6 months now!).
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Hi all
Thought I would post some pics of my very first Aksa 55. :D
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=395
Thanks
Brownee
Hi Brownee,
Very nice looking amp. You did very well. Mine is not as nice. Will post my aksa100 once I sold my old amp.
From the look of your photo, the heatsink is one piece, not cut in half. Where did you get the heatsink? I am thinking of doing the same for my next project.
TIA,
Sam
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Hi Sam, Thanks for your comments.
Actually the heat sink is the one supplied in the kit cut in half. The cut is hidden by the case.
Happy Building
Brownee
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Here's the link to my new AKSA 100N+ amp gallery. Scroll down till you get to, 'New AKSA 100 Nirvana Plus Amps'.
Enjoy,
Bruce
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/modules.php?op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=albums.php&set_albumListPage=31
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nice work
Looks sturdy
: )
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nice work
Looks sturdy
: )
Hey kyrill,
Thanks for the note. Yes, the cases are pretty sturdy and very handsome even if I say so myself :roll: I really like the mahogany/pommele sapele combination, very nice to look at. The deep, hand rubbed oil finish invites people to touch them.
These were my third attemp at building a case for the AKSA's. I tried some fancy joinery on the first two sets of cases that didn't turn out so well. So I ended up doing a pretty boring butt joint that isn't all that interesting but got the job done. :rock:
I'm going to spend a little time listening to music and breaking these babies in before I start work on my GK-1R preamp.
Take care -
Bruce
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Pea and Lonewolf's entries added into the first page...
Hugh I think you better put in a "lots-of-pics" warning on the thread for dial-up users!
:lol:
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Many thanks, Glen,
I appreciate this valuable input; I really don't know how to do half this stuff.....
Cheers,
Hugh
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Hi all,
My very transparent GK1.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=442
Cheers
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VERY nice work Rom....
love the details!
I hope mine can live up to your design!
updated the index thread again... you guys are keeping me on my toes at the moment! ;-)
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My very transparent GK1.
That is by far the most amazing piece of work I have yet seen on any AKSA kit. Great design and a very singular finish. Stunning job. Congratulations.
The only quibble I have is with the volume knob (I reckon a full metal knob would sit better) and regretably that AKSA sticker (Hugh is well aware of my lack of love for that decal).
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great GK-1 Rom ...
Good balance to the appearance of the amp as a whole unit. Placement of the tubes looks good and in proportion (what are the overall dimensions of the box?). The feet are a creative touch and the wood used in both the knob and sides gives a light feel to the unit in combination with the clear (perspex/lexan?) shape.
congratulations
jules
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My very transparent GK1.
That is by far the most amazing piece of work I have yet seen on any AKSA kit. Great design and a very singular finish. Stunning job. Congratulations.
The only quibble I have is with the volume knob (I reckon a full metal knob would sit better) and regretably that AKSA sticker (Hugh is well aware of my lack of love for that decal).
Agreed on all counts Seano... say we are still waiting for you to update your gallery with something more than a trashed Landrover! :lol:
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The only quibble I have is with the volume knob (I reckon a full metal knob would sit better)...
Personally, I believe a matching all-wood knob would look better than an all-metal one. It would tie-in visually with the nice wood side panels. Plus, it could eliminate the potential problem of walking across a wool floor rug or carpet then sending a nasty static tsssstt through the system when you touch the metal volume knob. :roll:
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Agreed on all counts Seano... say we are still waiting for you to update your gallery with something more than a trashed Landrover! :lol:
You know.......some people would say that you should only advertise what you are good at........
I'm still trying to actually finish the amp. I'm in the final stages of construction after more than two and a half years. I've recently acquired one of Hugh's bespoke cases and then changed the fascia, the guts are at this moment in the shed getting the Nirvana Plus bits welded in and so over this weekend I hope to have the amp finally finished.
So photos should be available next week!!! If I remember to steal the office digital camera....
And that's when another box of bits that Hugh takes great delight in calling a GK-1M should also arrive on the doorstep. Yah-bloody-hooo :lol:
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Pea and Lonewolf's entries added into the first page...
Hugh I think you better put in a "lots-of-pics" warning on the thread for dial-up users!
:lol:
Thank you EchiDna for adding my AKSA pic's (really Carl's photo's...since he's building it for me 8) ). Looks like I'm in good company !!! :D
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My new additon to the clear collection, still to be completed 55W Nirvana Plus.
Million Thanks to Hugh !!!!!
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=442[/img]
enjoy!.
Thanks for all the kind words Jules, EchiDna,DSK Seano and all AKSAphile. The design for GK1 was more of implemetation of the design given by Dayneger but if I were to redo it again I will place the PS at the center to make more symetrical and have the RCA socket on top close to the main board. size of the GK1 was 35x35x11.5 mm.
Cheers,
Rom
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Hi Rom
If I look well you must have had the "kit" a long time before you decide to finish it?
Very clean neat approach. The see thru characteristic will demand a clean hook up wire approach : )
What is yr idea about shielding power amps? I am curious
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Hi Kyrill,
I do have an idea that will serve for more purpose than just a shield, I'm still working on it, I'm looking at it to see if it will look good. I will post more picture later.
Right now I need to make it more rigid.
I do have more than one kit , basically I have most of the AKSA kit, from the old 55W , TLP, 55WNirvana,GK1 and the new 55W Nirvana Plus.
Cheers
Rom
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Guys,
Rom is an artist. In real life he is a satellite coms technician, and his workshop turns me bright green with envy.... His AKSAs are amongst the best we have seen here, and his skills and technical understanding are superb. Rom is in fact an Aspen beta tester, we go back more than three years, and he gives me highly valued feedback on new designs. I greatly appreciate and revere his input, and commend him to you all as an extremely helpful, kind man.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Rom,
thanks for the dimensions ... very compact. I've looked at your case a few times since you first posted it. It's the first time I've seen the AKSA tubes set up in a way that doesn't make them look too small. I think that's probably because the case compliments them. I imagine that must be even more pronounced when it's switched on and the valve glow transfers through the case. I'm working on a wood case [for a 55] myself at the moment and the knob is very similar in proportion with a variation on the "wedge" shaped pointer.
Jules
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Hello all
Finally finished the amp AND got some photos together (so now you can check out something other than a wrecked Land Rover).
The gallery is here http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=285
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Congratulations Seano very nice work - now that that hum is gone it must sound all the sweeter.... I particularly like the way you put a sign of things to come on the last photo - that GK1 is just begging to be built!
One question, is that some sort of line filter up near the main switch? Is it something else you have done to overcome your supply issues or is it something that comes standard?
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One question, is that some sort of line filter up near the main switch? Is it something else you have done to overcome your supply issues or is it something that comes standard?
No it is not standard. It does overcome some supply issues. But it ain't no line filter......
Anyone who frequents a John R. Turk outlet (an electrical wholesaler in Oz) might see it for what it is.
It's nothing more flash than a 240V distribution block. It was the lowest stress (and mess) way I could think of for getting the active and neutral leads from the switch to the two toroids. This was a cheap, neat and tidy way of doing the deed. It was carried over from the previous version of the amp and makes fit-up way easier.
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Sean,
must be good to have the amp up and running again. Great to see some wood on the case although screen images really don't do grain any sort of justice. How did you find the organoil to use? I'm nearly finished a Huon Pine Aksa 55N+ case (about 75% wood) and I'm considering what to coat it with. I was considering shellac for a while but the design could make it hard to apply in less accesible corners.
What sort of case are you planning for the GK-1M? Will this be the moment for the billet construction redgum number?
I have no idea why the landrover pics have been checked out over 80 times each but they might be able to rest in peace now with your case taking the attention.
Jules
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It's great to have the amp running again. In truth it wasn't down for that long (2 weeks?) but I was never happy with the look and layout of the original version. In truth it sounded way better than it looked. Now I think it looks as good as it sounds. I keep glancing over at it every time I walk past and smiling in satisfaction.
The GK-1M case will be a modified Altronics 2U rack case that I ordered yesterday. They are on special at the moment for $70. The board layout of the GK-1 doesn't really favour the billet construction and, given the look of the amp, I figured a rack case was the place to start. I'll again ditch the aluminium fascia and go with jarrah and I've got some 40mm copper boiler pipe for the tube shields. I may also make a jarrah inlay for the area around the tubes too. We'll see when I get the case and can have an optic.
Organoil is a great product. Actually a great range of product. We use a variety of their product on our furniture which we either restore or build from recycled timber. I like the hard burnishing oil (a mixture of tung oil and citrus oil) cause it is clear and doesn't appreciably darken the timber like their interior oil. It is also possible to get quite a shine up with it. All you have to do is sand down (using an orbital sander) to 800 or 1200 grit then apply the oil and wait 20 minutes. If all is absorbed then repeat and keep going until the surface is saturated. Then using your last piece of used paper and sand the surface again, wiping the paper down to remove the debris as you go. With a close grained piece of timber you end up with a surface you can see your reflection in. Wait 24 hours then buff with lambswool or soft cloth then apply Organoil's furniture polish....you get a very good result that looks and smells fantastic. www.organoil.com.au
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Hi AKSAphiles and all,
I have added a few more pic of my almost finish but a fully working AKSA 55W N plus.
Enjoy!
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=442
Seano,
Nice job on your kit.
Cheers
Rom
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Greetings Everybody,
My Aksa constructions so far.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=456
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Hi Rom, Noel,
Many thanks for your beautiful AKSAs; the photos are marvellous, and show the superb workmanship. Thank you, and all others here, for posting them to the gallery.
My congratulations!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Greetings Everybody,
My Aksa constructions so far.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=456
Hi Noel,
Very nice work. Where did you get the case & heat sink? I am thinking about the same thing for my next project.
TIA,
Sam
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all updated in the index post... sheesh, we better start warning the dialuppers...is there still any of them around? :lol:
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Hey fellow AKSAphiles,
Just installed the Chris VenHaus V-Caps for the 2 AKSA 100W Monoblocks serving Treble / Midrange duty. They are breaking-in right now. It's been 2 hours so far, but the midrange is (as Hugh stated) unbelieveably sweet.
According to Chris, 75% of the burn in occurs after the 100 hour mark, but right off the bat the V-Caps are already incredible in the midrange and highs.
You can find pictures of them in the nested album in my gallery:
Lost81's Gallery (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=50)
(And no, I haven't gotten round to installing the Nirvana Plus Upgrade Kit yet... :wink: )
Cheers,
-Lost81
-
Hi Lost81,
Very nice work! I particularly like the brushed fascia on the equipment. Did you get an engineering workshop to produce that sort of finish or source the materials yourself?
PS: I think you need a flexy rack for all that lovely equipment. Here's a pic of mine. ( The sound improves in depth and resolution if the CD player is on it ).http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/~rodneynoble/cabinet/images/15_finished_no_equip_a.jpg
Cheers
Rod
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Very nice work! I particularly like the brushed fascia on the equipment. Did you get an engineering workshop to produce that sort of finish or source the materials yourself?
Hi Rob,
Thank you!
I presume you are talking about the chassis for the TLP Nirvana and ART DIO. These were done almost 2 years ago. The brushed fascia come stock. Here's information pertaining to the chassis. (They are the same chassis a number of manufacturers on this forum are using for their own products). Let me know if you need the company's contact information.
The face plates for my AKSAs are still at the machine shop, awaiting some CNC-ing, as well as brushing and anodizing.
PS: I think you need a flexy rack for all that lovely equipment. Here's a pic of mine. ( The sound improves in depth and resolution if the CD player is on it ).http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/~rodneynoble/cabinet/images/15_finished_no_equip_a.jpg
Yes, I have been thinking about that.
Home Depot sells finished MDF panels (veneered).
Some individual was letting go a black salamander rack for $75 last week, but it was a verticle stack configuration (which will ruin my soundstage).
I will probably need a rack that is wider than it is tall.
How did you find the construction experience of your flexy-rack?
:beer:
Cheers,
-Lost81
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Benny,
Brilliant, neat work - well executed! If you had any more turbos and superchargers on your AKSA 100N, you wouldn't be able to fit all the pipes and drive belts!! A very tight installation indeed - do you find that the teflon caps completely understate the bass, but do something almost astral to the mids and highs? I found it made the amp literally like a 2A3 SET with testicular augmentation.... :lol:
Cheers,
Hugh
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Thank you, Hugh! :P
If you had any more turbos and superchargers on your AKSA 100N, you wouldn't be able to fit all the pipes and drive belts!! A very tight installation indeed
Haha! Sounds like my car! I fitted 2 before-throttle fuel injectors to guarantee a rich-mixture at high-boost. Now installing them and trying to get them to work without burning my car to the ground was fun :mrgreen: (They rarely come into operation though. Everytime I step on the gas pedal, dollar signs start floating before my eyes :rules: )
...do you find that the teflon caps completely understate the bass, but do something almost astral to the mids and highs?
I must admit I haven't got the chance to connect them to a full-range speaker, so I can't tell. They have been connected to an iPod and 2 satellite speakers (woofers--in separate enclosures--are in public storage), breaking in at low volume for the last 20 hours. If any bass is lost, it could be due to the substitution of the stock electrolytic bypass capacitors for the Elna Cerafines as well.
Since I have installed the Elna Cerafines outboard, there is space (drilling required as the lead spacing is 15mm) to install a Simens 1uF 100V stacked film, "naked" capacitor (http://home.comcast.net/~atzen811/Siemens_1uF_100V_Capacitors.JPG) someone highly recommended to me, which are supposedly very low impedence. Have you ever experimented with them?
Update:[/u]
After some research, I discovered that these are the Siemens MKT Metalized Polypropylene resistors liked by many. Their dissipation factor, tan ? @ 20 degrees Celsius (68 F) is an impressive 0.008 @ 1kHz, and 0.015 @ 10kHz, for the capacitance value of 1uF. Service life is 200,000 hours @ 40 degrees Celsius (104 F) within stated voltage range. I may go ahead and install these sometime in future :D
I noticed that the stock configuration of 100uF electrolytic and 100nF / 150nF film cap deviates from the general "rough and ready" rule of bypassing 1/100th of the value of the larger capacitor. I wonder if a 1uF cap will result in any improvement here.
I found it made the amp literally like a 2A3 SET with testicular augmentation.... :lol:
As you predicted, the midrange and highs (particularly the midrange) are incredible. It is very, very sweet. Very, very palpable. When the trumpets come on, you can almost get a cavity listening to it, elephantitis in the scrotum notwithstanding (props to andyr for lifting his line)... :jester:
And it just keeps improving with every passing hour :o
:dance:
Cheers,
-Lost81
-
It's about time my Aksa gear was introduced to the world, so here's another gallery entry:
My Aksa Kit (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=422)
If I can keep the GK-1 switched off for long enough, I'll get some pics of the internal layout.
Cheers!
Hi Ron,
How do you manage to get the clear alu heat sink cabinet? I search the Monacor site and all they have is black. The parts number I found is RC-112/SW. Also, how much is it? The site did not say anything about price.
I am thinking of building an intergrated amp using aksa55.
Cheers,
Sam
-
Sam,
I eventually got these cases from Germany, at: http://www.musicians-gear.com
RC-112/SW is the case I used, with an extra brushed ally front, RCP-2.
The Monacor website should have the ally fronts listed.
I was tempted to order an extra front panel, in case I made a complete pig's ear of the brushed ally one, but that's just a reflection on my metalworking skills. :roll:
Warning: The built-in Heatsinks on this case do not have the 'shelves' like on the Hugh-supplied Heatsinks, so you'll either have to:
1. Modify the AKSA heatsinks to fit (they are the correct size but with slightly larger fins, they will need rebates machining in them and tapping for mounting screws).
2. Make up the shelves from ally, fixing and thermally bonding to the Monacor heatsinks.
3. Mount the power transistors on the Monacor heatsinks and chop the AKSA boards (like I did).
I've just taken some more pics, so I'll be updating the Gallery in the next few days.
Cheers,
Ron.
-
Here is a pair of Hugh's cases that I bought for my (ongoing) active system. They make a nice couple don't you think? :)
(http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/~rodneynoble/gainclone/images/hughs_cases)
-
Here is a pair of Hugh's cases that I bought for my (ongoing) active system. They make a nice couple don't you think? :)
Very nice!
They do look like they are built like tanks :o
-Lost81
-
Warning: The built-in Heatsinks on this case do not have the 'shelves' like on the Hugh-supplied Heatsinks, so you'll either have to:
1. Modify the AKSA heatsinks to fit (they are the correct size but with slightly larger fins, they will need rebates machining in them and tapping for mounting screws).
2. Make up the shelves from ally, fixing and thermally bonding to the Monacor heatsinks.
3. Mount the power transistors on the Monacor heatsinks and chop the AKSA boards (like I did).
...
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the warning. I am aware about this. At the moment I am on option 2 & 3. Will check the web site again to see if I can find any aluminium finish. Need to match my current aksa. :)
Cheers,
Sam
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Here is a pair of Hugh's cases that I bought for my (ongoing) active system. They make a nice couple don't you think? :)
They are built pretty well but I'm not sure that they'd cope with being driven over as Hugh suggests. The base is not fixed to the front or rear panels so the weight of a vehicle on it would probably bow the case like a banana. I suppose that's just splitting hairs :P
Mind you I did find that the base plate does bow slightly under the weight of the two toroids. I ended up fixing the base plate to the fascia. Much better.
And I'm still not thrilled by the stock fascias but that's definitely a personal opinion. Which is probably why I sent mine back to Hugh and used a piece of Jarrah.
Overall, one of these jobbies is way easier to handle than a rack case for an AKSA. For those of us close to the action, Hugh's case is well worth the expense.
-
Hi all,
I've just posted a few pics of my wood hybrid Aksa 55N+ in the gallery ["Jules Aksa 55N+", sorry don't know how to make a link here though I've managed to elbow on to page one for the moment]. Some of the details are:-
* Case is Huon pine. This is a rare and beautiful Tasmanian timber, slow growing with a very fine grain structure. I thought twice before using it and I hope the product is worthy of the wood. The sides are 23mm and the top is 27mm.
* The floor is 1.8mm non-magnetic stainless steel. I designed this with a CAD program and had several laser cut. The price is not all that high and in fact the total cost of the case [excluding the zillions of hours work] was less than $150 ... I think. The front and back are both folded up to form a strong U profile and the heatsink is attached with 5 screws so that it is part of the structure rather than an add-on.
* The step in the floor solves all manner of layout problems:- the wiring is very clean. The floor is absurdly strong and the outside of the case is totally clean.
* The ventillation is very carefully thought out with lots of escape slots on the top and sides while the inlet slots [underneath] are specifically located so as to draw air past the toroids and pcbs.
* speaker posts are Cardas and all screws and fasteners used are stainless [including the star post item which has been replaced with a 3/16 ss round head screw and dome nut]
Many thanks to Hugh for his willingness to answer all questions and also to all the other members of this forum who responded to my naive queries.
:thankyou:
Jules
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Jules.....looks great !!! :beer:
Link.... http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=465[/list:u]
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Jules,
Congratulations!
Very very nice , I like the design , excellent workmanship.
Cheers
Rom
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hi Jules
I see the zillions of hours you have spend on it. Congratulations to your very original design. I think your photoos do not give it justice. Meeting the amp in the flesh, will be a much more "intense"experience.
I see you added extra resistors to the power supply.
IS it like this?:
(http://www.hawkaudio.nl/articlepic/Fig3.jpg)
or do you use them as "bleeders"?
-
Those look like bleeder resistors...
Definitely on the DC side of the PS...
:beer:
-Lost81
-
Nice work Jules... make that VERY nice work!
I can smell that beautiful Huon pine as you were routing it from here ;-)
how I wish I had my tools with me here in Singapore *sigh*
regarding the 10amp push button switch.... well you can do it with available parts, you just need a switch that meets your intended "look" and a relay. I think it was RonR who did this already??? perhaps a short tutorial is in order...
EDIT: typo...
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Jules,
This is a work of seminal elegance...... beautifully conceived, exquisitely made, it wins the AKSA award for excellence for 2004. :kiss:
What say others? Agree?? Jules' work is just incredible - thanks for sharing. :beer:
Is it fully run in and delivering as good as it looks?
Cheers,
Hugh
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Kyrill;
I'm not Jules but I believe that the bleeder resistor are connected to the V+ of the DC supply to ground and the other one from the V- to ground.
basically the resistor are in pararell connection to the capacitors on the PS.
Cheers
rom
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Hi Rom
According to Hawk audio which got a very favourable review on TNT audio
"In most electronic equipment a rectifier transforms AC to DC. So far so good. A silicon rectifier is a semi-conductor, only letting current go through it when the output voltage is more than 0,5 Volt below the input. At that very moment it switches "ON". Inside a semiconductor there is a capacitance as well. This capacitor, together with the inductance of the wiring, causes a very sharp peak voltage to occur. This peak is too fast to be dampened by the connected (electrolytic) capacitors.
The solution is simple: put a resistor between the transformer and the rectifier. In a transistor power amp the value of that resistor may be 0,1 Ohm - 5 Watt. With tube power amps it could be around 1 Ohm and in preamps (transistor and tubes) some 10 Ohms. The result is a more relaxed amplification. It seems as if the sound comes easier out of your loudspeakers and the stereo image is mostly improved. A few dimes will do the job."
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Hi kyrill,
Good idea on that one , I will try them as soon I'm back from my Home leave.
Anyway, lets keep the topic on the galery subject.
Rom
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Hi Rom
The solution is simple: put a resistor between the transformer and the rectifier. In a transistor power amp the value of that resistor may be 0,1 Ohm - 5 Watt. With tube power amps it could be around 1 Ohm and in preamps (transistor and tubes) some 10 Ohms. The result is a more relaxed amplification. It seems as if the sound comes easier out of your loudspeakers and the stereo image is mostly improved. A few dimes will do the job."
This mod sounds worth trying, has anyone tried it and heard the difference?
PS: That case is just stunning. I especially like the rca input and binding post position and the careful consideration of cooling vents, lovely work!
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thanks so much for all the glowing compliments :D I am most proud of my proposed "Aksa amp of the year award" from Hugh and hope I can survive the remaining couple of weeks without being knocked out.
I so much wish that I could lay claim to a clever electronic [or even topological!] idea but I have to confess that my system is totally standard and the clever "bleeder resistors" are either a small block of wood which acts as a wire separator/insulator [I like this idea somewhat] or merely the led feeds.
I'll reply to various individual posts via pms so as to keep the thread on topic.
I gave this amp a deliberate retro [art deco] look partly because it very strongly connects with a period when tubes ruled. In conjunction I have a nearly complete image in my head for a GK-1 with a complimentary but quite different box which would reflect the same sort of theme but get away from the "exposed tube" look, which I like but which I don't think is well suited to the two small tubes on the GK-1 [although I think Rom succeeded with his design]. Also in my brain is a funky look version of both of these and a related design for an Aksa 100 but I'm not at all sure when I might get the time to do any of them at the moment.
I'm a great fan of the tech look in all sorts of items and at one stage I owned a stove with a chimney made from a stack of finned aeroplane barrels in a room totally lined with egg cartons but I think there is a point where design has to become more "living room friendly" if I can put it that way. An expensive amp/set is goes beyond being a hobby and becomes a joint purchase out of a family budget. This means that it has to have wider appeal than it's tech specs and also has to work for both sexes as well as people who wouldn't care if they were looking at a high level amp or totem pole.
Jules
-
I just posted mine on the gallery...
-
I am not that young anymore but do you have a link?
You are not yet on the first thumbnail page
-
Here you go:
Gallery entry for 95Honda (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=469)
SOLID job! How does it sound?
BTW, I've added some pics of the completed 55N+ to my gallery:
here (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=422)
Cheers,
Ron
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Unbelievable
What a love and attention for the AKSA's beauties. Both of you
God again is reflected in the details. The last couple of entrees are awesome.
According to Zen and the Art of Motorcycle maintenance , they must sound a little better too
But Honda will benefit extra from the extreme thick panels because of their mass.
When you will build once an GK-1 Honda, keep the the mass aspect in honour : :P
Intuïtevely I learn that the GK-1 may even be better than the AKSA's
Hugh see what they do to your babies. They must be from Royal blood, is that possible, a blue bloodline from Down Under???
-
Mike, 95Honda, hails from the USAF and presently lives in Washington State. He works in a technical coms facility, and not only has the technology at his fingertips but is an accomplished metal worker. I think this case is seminal too; beautifully made with Aluminium just as Jules has made his case largely with timber.
When I saw Mike's 'rig' I realized he was just like most of us - a hard-bitten audiophile with the nervosa infection at Stage 4 - did you see the subs in his AUTOMOBILE!! MEIN GOTT!! On a front drive vehicle, I'm sure the subs drive the rear wheels!!
Congratulations, Mike, and thank you very much for posting to the gallery.
Cheers,
Hugh
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All updated again on the first page...
It's also refreshing to see that it aint only in Australia that taxpayers money is hard at work building personal projects ;-)
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RonR/Honda,
Nice work, these really put all my effort to shame.
Congratulations to you both.
It seems to me that the AKSA's are getting better and better on the look department. Hugh must be very proud and of course the owner as well.
When I was designing mine I was really torn between the Industrial looks
and the designers look. I ended up with what ever material I could find and make the most of it.
Cheers
rom
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RonR/Honda,
Gorgeous work! I love the industrial look! :o
Thanks for tirelessly adding new pics to the main page, Echina!
:xmas:
-Lost81
-
Honda
WOW! Over the top would be an understatement - and I mean that in the best possible way. Great job. This makes a Krell look lightweight.
And, it looks from the printing on the aluminium top plate that at least some of the material originated just 60km up the road from me.
Cheers
Mike
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Thank you for the great feedback! And thanks Hugh for all the help along the way... The amplifier sounds magnificent in my system. I wish I could post better pictures, they just don't do the amplifier justice at all. I like going with the all buisness look with all the audio equipment I build. Also, being in the military and getting shipped all over the world, it doesn't hurt to build things like brick s*it house so they won't get damaged easy. I finally have an amplifier that keeps my mains running along with my subwoofer system!
If you take your time, you can build just about anything...... :wink:
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Hi all,
Okay, sorry about going off topic here but theres a couple of things.
First, I am in the process of building my first project (Aksa 100N) and this forum has been a great help and inspiration, the level of quality here is awsome. The problem for the likes of first timers like me is that it can be a bit intimidating because everytime you look in here there is another piece of art that, ultimatly, I will be comparing to my finished product :o
Thats not to say I think mine will be comparable to the works here, but it is just my nature.. There are plenty of examples of pure art here that really should be an inspiration to all.
The plus side of all this is that my amp will never be completed. once I have it running and have the time, skills and resources I will have a new amp with minimal outlay :) After spending lots on the electronics, money for the case at this time sits way behind my families needs, being chrissy and all.
Now a quick question. What exactly is anodising? Is it a chemicle process or mechanical process? Do you require a certain grade/thickness of metal? can you do it yourself? the reason I ask is that for my case I have laminated 3 pieces of ally and was going to sand it then coat it in clear coat but I am not sure if the coat will stick without etching. Have always assumed that anodising was a specialised process but I need to be sure before ruling it out..
Thanks for your time and its back to the bench (dining table) for me..
Martin.
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What exactly is anodising...
Hi Martin,
I will take a crack at this. Anodizing is an electro-chemical process by which the natural oxide layer on aluminium is thickened. There are 3 levels of anodizing: regular, large and super-sized... NOT! (heh... that's my tummy talking there :lol ) Ok, there are 3 levels of anodizing in terms of how tough and resistant-to-wear the final results are: regular, hard anodized (my machinist estimates that it is near 60 on the Rockwell scale), and Mil-Spec (E.g. SureFire's Type III Hard Anodized).
As the anodized layer is porous, it allows for the item to be dyed in the color of choice thereafter. If the item is not dyed, it retains its natural finish.
I am not sure if you can anodize aluminium DIY--cost-effectively, at least.
If you are going to send off your face plates for anodizing, be sure to let them know that your purpose is ornamental. Sometimes there might be mounting marks on the item as a result of the process.
There is another process called alodine, which supposedly gives another electrical property to the item alodined (shields it from something... which I can't remember).
Make sure you do everything you need to do to the item before sending it to be anodized. That includes drilling, sanding, and brushing.
Hope that helps!
:beer:
Cheers,
-Lost81
-
Thanks for the info Lost.
I have put some photos on webshots as a sort of newbies perspective. My brother and others have asked whats involved and so on so I thought this would be the best way to show them. There is nothing here that most of you haven't seen but any newbies may want to take a look. I know I would have liked to se something like this as I was doing my research into the project.
Its getting closer to destiny time :o . Soon I will know if I have an Aksa amp or an Aksa smoke machine... :lol:
http://community.webshots.com/album/232108074ElNPmd
Cheers,
Martin
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Martin,
Thank you for your excellent photos - I have to say that your amplifier is extremely well made; the lovely soldering job on the heatsinks, the good component dress, the accuracy of the links, the generous soldering on the power supply board - it's all there in spades - my congratulations.
I very much doubt there'll be any problems on firing it up!
Cheers,
Hugh
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I've finally posted some pictures of my GK-1R and AKSA 55N+ (see the gallery, page 36).
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/modules.php?op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=albums.php&set_albumListPage=36
The GK-1R and AKSA amp are both in in 2U Par-Metal cases. For the GK-1R, I suspended the analog board on two aluminum "L" brackets with a little blue EAR material and some rubber grommets used as isolation (this allows a 2U case and keeps the leads to the attenuator short). I shielded the transformers and the digital power supply in the initial build... I have no idea whether or not they are necessary or even help. I just wanted to go the whole nine yards with this build.
Peter
-
updated the idex page again... surely there are other AKSA's being built that aint in the gallery at the moment? only one update since november 2004... Hugh I hope you aren't going too hungry! :o
-
Happy to oblige...
Here is a picture of my attempt to whack up a case for the GK1-R... note: top is not fully screwed down yet.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4995)
I consider this a prototype... I will be remaking the case after I have finished everything else I am working on.
First part of a GK1-R + 8 x AKSA 55N+ + Linkwitz ORION
-
:o
not bad for a prototype!
:o
can't wait to see the finished product (not to mention the rest of the system!)
-
Marcus Aurelius,
Are you by chance a skilled artisan in wood, resident of Rome, 2005 AD?
Cheers,
Hugh
-
Thanks EchiDna,
Aiming for completion of all elements by the end of April. The final pre-amp case won't be substantially different... there is just some of the joinery that I'm not happy with... I may also change my choice of wood to Tasmanian Myrtle and Black-hearted Sasafras... this is what I intend to make the Orion cabinets out of. I'm still unsure how to finish the LED and IR remote holes.
Hugh,
Rome ??? Geelong?? Who could spot the difference? I'm sure any contemorary "Grand Tour" could substitute one for the other!
My father-in-law, an odd Scottsman (perhaps the most tautological expression one can write!), refers to me as Aurelius; I don't really have imperial delusions of grandure.
Cheers
Mark C.
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Hi Gang:
Completed assembling the AKSA 100-N, built a case, and am very satisified with the results.
Details can be seen on:
http://www.wmeckle.com
Click on the image of the AKSA 100-N for more info.
[/img]
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Hooray. I finally have the old girl back. I have done my second case and have had enough of drilling, tapping, cutting down bolts and sanding for a couple of weeks at least. The wife is happy that I'm finally happy with it. Mind you, I have some more ideas..... Next couple of months, maybe. :lol:
I have a few photos on webshots if you want a look.
http://community.webshots.com/album/313498907KDURpF
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4559)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=4560)
TTFN
Martin
-
Hooray. I finally have the old girl back. I have done my second case and have had enough of drilling, tapping, cutting down bolts and sanding for a couple of weeks at least. The wife is happy that I'm finally happy with it. Mind you, I have some more ideas..... Next couple of months, maybe. :lol:
I have a few photos on webshots if you want a look.
Great job, am looking closely at your pictures as I am considering building
one and 1/2 AKSA 100s (three channel) like you did. And am looking at the layout to fit all in a reasonable size case. What is the height of your case ?
I see fitting 3 transformers in the alloted space as the bigest problem.
Again nice job !
-
Thanks Bill,
My case (usable cavity) is 145mm High, 435mm wide and 300mm deep. Thats plenty for the stacked tranfos. I have had some correspondence about the way they are stacked so I have a new design floating in my noggin. I get an audible hum at 1db with my ear at the speaker.
When I get sick of this case I will be doing a Two storey jobby. Im going to have all my power supply stuff in the bottom, chuck a shielding plate over the top of those and then have my 3 channels on separate heatsinks with the 3rd one running across the back. Kind of like this l_l which will keep all signal wires short. The case will only need to be about an extra 20mm higher, I think.. :?
This design will be about as good as I can get as I will be DESIGNING it instead of making things up as I go along..
Wish I knew about these before I made my case..
http://www.gumboot.com/cgi-bin/ezshop/shop/2052?prodcode=33
Good luck, Bill. If you want to keep things neat, can I suggest you get a terminal strip/board happening? I know I will be using one next time. And keeping the bottom open is unreal for testing. :wink:
Now to start sorting the new case...
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Thanks Bill,
If you want to keep things neat, can I suggest you get a terminal strip/board happening? I know I will be using one next time. And keeping the bottom open is unreal for testing.
Hi soitstarts:
I used a terminal strip for the resistor & cap on the power switch, but would like to lay out the parts so it wouldn't be necessary to use any strips, instead figure wiring dress as part of the design process.
I also need to make the "test points" more compact, maybe "needles" rising above the boards for easy access from the top ?
Again nice job !
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Hi Gang:
Just completed my three channel AKSA 100-N Plus amp and have about 50 hours on it and it is sounding better all the time.
If anyone would like to see the pictures and case details check:
http://www.wmeckle.com/AKSA3/AKSA3.htm
http://
If I knew how to add pictures to the gallery....................? ?
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Hi Bill,
built like a tank!!!, I'm impress, really nice work.
cheers
rom
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Hi Bill
Built like a tank, yes.
But I think "built like a brick s#*t house" sounds better.
Don't drop that thing on your foot.
Great job.
-
Guys,
A round of applause for Bill. :notworthy: :beer: I think his efforts are extraordinary, beautiful workmanship, measured, logical design, and brilliant layout......
Bill, you are a credit to all of us!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Guys,
A round of applause for Bill. :notworthy: :beer: I think his efforts are extraordinary, beautiful workmanship, measured, logical design, and brilliant layout......
Bill, you are a credit to all of us!
Cheers,
Hugh
Thanks Hugh, the pictures of your AKSA inspired me to build something like it, so I stole lots of ideas from you.
Thanks again. See ya.
-
I have just added some photos of one of my Aksa's to the gallery on Pg. 47.
-
Let me try again and see if this works.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=647
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Hi all!
My name is Zoran, and I am from Croatia. I am an audiophile with 15 years of DIY expirience, and with around 10 DIY amplifier projects finished. Two months ago I assembled an AKSA 55N, you can see pictures here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=668
There were no problems during assembly and setup process. Sonic results are exceptional!!! This is overall best sounding amplifier that I have ever built, or heard.
Some of amplifiers that i built in the past are: Crescendo Millennium Edition (Elektor 4/2001), Pass Aleph3 (from service manuals at Pass Labs), Leach Amp, some chi(m)p amps (old TDA and newer LM series), and few more from various magazines that were available in Croatia in pre-internet times. I found AKSA to be more sonically satisfactory than any of those listed above. Sounds like it was made to please my ears rather than somebody's oscilloscope or spectrum analyzer.
Here are two pictures of my AKSA, you may notice that I added something on the primary side of transformers. That is a PCB that holds fuse, mains filter, solder pins for transformers and mains, relay for remote powering and totally unnecessary soft start circuit, set to around 0,5 sec delay.
Heatsinks are overkill for this amplifier, of course, this is what I had at hand and these are remains of times when I thought that only A-class amplifier could yield acceptable results.
This is an exceptional amplifier, very impresive! I don't really see (hear) any need for improvement, but a "plus" upgrade that I plan to order in future may prove me wrong.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=393)
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=793)
Regards,
Zoran, Croatia
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Thanks Steven, works a treat!
Zoran, welcome to our forum, and thank you sincerely for pictures of your superbly built AKSA!
With your experience, and that of so many others here, we have an incredibly valuable discussion group about AKSAs which is very helpful to new builders and those considering their first purchase.
I appreciate your comments about the design. Just for a change, I decided to design an amp from a musical instrument standpoint rather than an engineering standpoint. It was more difficult, but it seemed to turn out!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Hi,
I've been AWOL for a long time. Moving house, getting married, buying house, new kitchen, decorating...
Finally I have a nice place to put my Aksa and a source to do it some kind of justice - a Squeezebox3.
I'm keeping things simple and using the built in volume control of the SB3 so I lowered the gain of the Aksa (following Hugh's instructions in another post).
The gallery is at:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=739
I consider the case (an APW model) to be OK but nothing like some of the beautifully finished work I have seen here.
Regards,
Simeon
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not mad about the top cover but the rest of it looks nice and clean. looks like a very roomy box to be putting an AKSA in!! :)
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not mad about the top cover but the rest of it looks nice and clean. looks like a very roomy box to be putting an AKSA in!! :)
Yes, the box is painted steel. It's Ok but looks a bit industrial. I hope to use these people http://www.schaeffer-ag.de/ for a really nice box one day.
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Hi Simeon,
Very nice job, full stereo mono layout!!
I nice touch I've found with steel is to bake an enamel coat over the top of the powder coating. This adds huge depth and lovely refinement to a steel top.....
Cheers,
Hugh
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Hi all,
Well I finally got around to uploading an image. :oops: It doesn't look much, but its been going non-stop since May 2002.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=6959)
My newer built amps may look a bit better, but none sound as good. :D I cringe a bit looking at the wiring, but at the time I didn't know any better. I might rewire it when I upgrade to a Lifeforce.
For the historians out there, this is a standard AKSA 55 v1.6.
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Hello All,
My name is Oren Sokoler and I am from Israel, after 2 long years of effort it was finished ... my 5 channels AKSA 55. This is my first high-end DIY project and it sounds GREAT !!! Bass is very accurate and the sound stage is amazing - everything where it should be. This is a perfect match for my Marantz CD63 and newly purchased Triangles. It was mainly designed for HT but currently it is used only for stereo. :)
It includes 3 torodials ( Front, Back and Center) and a cool blue :scratch: led that drives me nuts on my long hours of listening ( I need to replace the resistor ... )
Wiring is not finished yet - so don't go crazy when you see the inner pictures :D
Pics are here : http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=846
Many Many thanks to Hugh for his support when I needed it ... this was a fun and a very enlightening experience.
Cheers
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Another AKSA 100N+ to add to the collection.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=864
Mike - Fishmalt
Anchorage, Alaska
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Fishmalt,
Very nice effort. That is one nice case. Where did it come from?
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Thanks for the feedback.
I designed the case and took the plans to a local metal shop to build for me. It's stainless steel. I hope to build a matching preamp kit sometime down the road. I took a similar approach with my speakers. I designed what I wanted and hired an artist/furniture maker to build the cabinents. I don't own the proper tools (or possess the skill) to build the case or speaker cabinents to the style and quality that I want so hiring someone to build my design is still alot of fun (just not DIY from start to finish).
Mike-(Fishmalt)
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Fishmalt,
That is a very impressive case. I am (very) slowly building cases for my Aksa 55N+s and GK-1 preamp. I am using standard cases, but adding special touches to make it look unique.
It is always impressive to see the variety of different designs that people come up with. Good luck with the pre-amp.
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Hi,
Just made a quick update to my gallery to include some pics of the upgrade from 55N+ to LifeForce.
Gallery: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=422
Cheers,
Ron.
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Ron
I'd completely forgotten how much I love your setup, where did the cases come from? when I go to lifeforce I want the same...
Nick.
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Hi Ron,
I agree with Nick, this is superb work, beautiful quality. Congratulations.
How do you find the sound, would you like to comment on the LF upgrade compared to the AKSA?
Cheers,
Hugh
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Hi, Folks.
I've added my recently completed 100 N+ to the AC Gallery (I think). If I did it correctly, you should be able to see four photographs here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;user=39648.
Cheers,
Martyn
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Hi, Folks.
I've added my recently completed 100 N+ to the AC Gallery (I think). If I did it correctly, you should be able to see four photographs here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;user=39648.
Cheers,
Martyn
That's nice and neat. Did you make the case yourself? The phono connectors look unusual.
Sim
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The case is made from 2mm pre-anodised aluminum with a front panel from 10 x 100 aluminum bar stock. A machine shop made the front panel and a sheet metal shop bent up the four other pieces as blanks. I saved some money by cutting all the holes in the sheet metal myself. The phonos are Neutrik and have a very solid feel to them.
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beautiful job martyn- inside and out :thumb:
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Hi,
Finally got around to taking photos of the Aksonics today.
They can be found in my gallery Here (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=422)
Made from 18mm Plywood with Teak Veneer covering and finished in Danish Oil.
Non-standard Cardas binding posts were used to match the ones on my LifeForce Power Amp.
Cheers,
Ron
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I added a few pics of my recently completed Lifeforce 55. Many thanks to Hugh for his help, and a wonderful sounding amplifier !
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=994
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Hi Ken,
Picture book stuff, really well done! Very professional appearance on the box, and nice symmetrical layout with the split heatsink. Thanks for posting.....
Happy listening!
Cheers,
Hugh
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I have a good friend with a high end metalworking company. I plan on putting together a few channels of Lifeforce 100's... if anyone has a case design that is highly regarded... if you send me a template I could probably have a couple of units made up relatively cheaply ...if enough forum members were interested, we could do a production run :D
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Where is he located?
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Hello all, I just posted some images of my recently completed AKSA Lifeforce 100, set up as a pair of monoblocks.
Many thanks to Hugh, who as usual, was very helpful consulting on critical layout decisions and various problems that inevitably crop up!
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;user=4323
Tim
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My compliments clean functional and beautiful
:)
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Tim,
Beautiful, stylish work - a joy to behold!!
Thank you for posting these outstanding examples,
Cheers,
Hugh
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Are those Kharma looking speakers real or diy editions? Either way, with the LF100 = Great music.
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Hello all, I just posted some images of my recently completed AKSA Lifeforce 100, set up as a pair of monoblocks.
Many thanks to Hugh, who as usual, was very helpful consulting on critical layout decisions and various problems that inevitably crop up!
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;user=4323
Tim
Tim - Beautiful work! Can you tell us what the source was for cases? Tom
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Are those Kharma looking speakers real or diy editions? Either way, with the LF100 = Great music.
They are real Ceramique 2.1's. Woodworking is not my strong suit!
Tim - Beautiful work! Can you tell us what the source was for cases? Tom
Thank you! The body panels are "Uni-Pac" from LMB Heeger, http://www.lmbheeger.com/products.asp?catid=30. I worked up the aluminum front and rear panels to match and had them milled by Front Panel Express. If I did it again and I could find an alternative to Front Panel Express, I would - simply to avoid their customer service. The online design and project submission are, however, very convenient.
Tim
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I've been enjoying my LF100 for a few months. I'm stepping up from a fairly modest Marantz amp so the LF has been a revalation to me. I brought it down to a very high end audio store the other to audition a pair of 802Ds. I was concerned that it may not have enough power to drive these. Not at all, the guys in the store were well impressed what with they hard. It left me longing after the 802Ds, although I may hold off for a while before buying.
Here is a link to a few images of my amp:
http://photoshare.shaw.ca/messages/viewthumb/2644218401-1186285688-77624/parm/page/1/15/
That's a DACT attenuator in there.
Norman
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I've also put the images up on AC - didn't realise my ISP required logon to the image site
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1184
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Just joined the Audio Circle forums here in the last few days, Id like to say hello to all of the Aspen owners and appreciaters of great sound quality! :). I thought I would take the opportunity to put some pictures of the Soraya amplifier that I had built prior to the retail product and "nicely furnished" version that is out and available for consumption. The first Canadian version :D. Nothing too special on the outside, its a shiny black box but its innards are unreal as those who have heard Hughs retail amp can attest to :drool:.. Here is the link below.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;user=44290
Heres to the best success for Aspen :roll:
Colin B
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welcome Colin
Is the rest of your setup "up" to the challenge? :wink:
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Hi Kyrill,
Let me answer that one........
Without commenting on Colin's other components, speakers, source, I can say this with some emphasis.
The sound contributed by the amp is much more than most realise. Common thinking says that the speakers make the most difference. This is just not true.
You will hear the benefits of a Soraya (or a Lifeforce) with ordinary speakers. I've heard very expensive speakers with lousy amplification, and the result is also ordinary. But even with inexpensive speakers you can hear a Soraya/Lifeforce from 100 metres - the effect is not subtle - because the incoming signal quality is incredibly important.
So, even with cheap speakers and an ordinary CD/DVD player you will hear a Soraya/Lifeforce. I noticed this very clearly at RMAF; people would walk into our room, hear the sound, and comment on how wonderful they were. They never realised that with an ordinary amp all the magic was gone; it really is true that the amp is 60-70% of the sound quality.
Colin,
Thanks for putting your lovely amp on display in the gallery! Much appreciated, and thank you again for your wonderful collaboration!
Cheers,
Hugh
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:D
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Thanks Colin!!
Great to see you hear, you are very welcome!
I see Lyn has just posted his impressions of the Soraya in a dedicated thread, would you like to add to it?
Cheers,
Hugh
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Thanks Hugh,
After getting it completed and the PITA laquering job I thought it was about time to post some pics of the first one built as I have to say I am damn proud to own such a fine sounding piece of Audio gear aa.
Kyrill, Thank you for the warm but tongue in cheek welcome, it is much appreciated, haha. I have to admit the rest of my system didnt cost alot the source is a Rotel RCD-02 with the analog output section post DAC being entirely rebuilt with a beefed up output that can drive difficult loads a little bit better than stock and with lower distortion. Many redundant signal path caps were removed in the process and presently only contains one cap(PP Film) in the signal path that could do any damage to the music, this one is between the highish dcoffset DAC out and the I/V, Buffer input :icon_lol:. The preamp is a homebrewed passive, based on the Shunt ideas floating around the internet but not in a stepped form, it used a 100k Alps blue and a 10k series resistor 1/2 watt metal film and sounded so good my active SS preamp now resides collecting dust i a dark corner, its for the better that way as simplicity has its benefits when the other variables can be dealt with, cables. SPeakers are PSB Image 2B with a crossover overhaul and better parts used(capacitors), 2 way 6.5 driver and ported they qualify as monetarily cheap speakers but sound very very neutral. Surprisingly enough their response is very flat from 60hz to 20khz which can be found in an old soundstage test on them that is still online, it may be their best trait :). They have be very carefully setup using the Cardas guide based on room dimensions and this is a huge difference as even 6 inches closer to the rear wall can drastically affect the low end but as it stands imaging is superb and low end in clean and grunty without being overweight and in need of a diet. Im still waiting for Hugh to complete those V-Sonics so I can buy a pair of real speakers :drool:. But in the end the amp has made a huge difference, so resolving that you can clearly hear changes further up the chain even if very subtle.
Thanks
Colin
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Here are my Lifeforce 55 monoblocks:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1331 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1331)
Enclosures from autocostruire.it (note the matching preamp aa), no-name RCA sockets and speaker binding posts. Neutrik XLR sockets (balanced or not, I'm a big fan of those XLR's). Mundorf supreme silver/gold in teflon wiring.
Heatsinks mounted on the outside of the rear panel. No screws needed to fasten it as it's made to fit perfectly into a cutout in the rear panel. This turned out to be a great solution. The amp barely gets warm after playing loud for longer periods.
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looks nicely build and the pcb has all the room it needs :D
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Hi Jurgen,
This is VERY elegant. I like it a lot.
Thanks for posting, and for your review, much appreciated!
Cheers,
Hugh
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OK guys, for your interest, here are some pics (in my AudioCircle Gallery page) of the various stages in my new amp build. This involved putting AKSA LF 100, 55 & 25 modules, plus active 3-way XO, in one box (with 4 power supplies in all! :D ). It was a 5-month exercise in all to build both channels! :(
See here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=487&pos=10
That's pic #1 ... follow through to pic #9 (sorry, I can't seem to get them in numeric order!).
Many thanks to marcus, who inspired me to build this "vertical" arrangement (weeell, he probably stole the idea from Halcro! :lol: )
Now sitting back and enjoying the significant improvement in sound over the previous N+s. :D
Regards,
Andy
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Andy,
It's brilliant - but did you mean to say that these are all Lifeforce modules?
Thanks for posting!
Cheers,
Hugh
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Andy,
It's brilliant - but did you mean to say that these are all Lifeforce modules?
Thanks for posting!
Cheers,
Hugh
Aah, sorry, mised that out! Made the change! :D
Andy
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Hello all Aksaphiles,
For anyone interested I have cobbled together a few new photos, mild nudity only of course of some of the creation over the last year wiring a few bits together from Hughs brilliant ideas. There are a couple of sneak Aztec photos of the 100w prototype too ;)...
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;user=44290
Colin
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:scratch: I thought the Aztec was to be 200w/ch? I can see from the 4 output devices per channel in your pics that it is indeed 100w. Is a 200w still on the cards?
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Darren,
In a word, yes.....
However, the sub-prime crisis and subsequent downturn in US retail spend decided me not to go ahead with development of 200W monoblocs, as the metal work will be a huge investment to get right.
In the meantime, I have more than enough products, it is now a matter of marketing what I have and trying to get reasonable ROI before I go further with the 'Veyron'. I need to sell some Passats!! However, I can assure you the electronics is complete, and the product boards ready for stuffing when I'm set to move ahead. Bear in mind that one would only sell two or three Aztecs in a year, and it's purpose is essentially symbolic, the flagship of the range.
Cheers,
Hugh
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Bear in mind that one would only sell two or three Aztecs in a year, and it's purpose is essentially symbolic, the flagship of the range.
Cheers,
Hugh
Wot, no Maggie owners amongst your AKSA prospects? :D 200wpc into 8 ohms (or, more particularly, 400wpc into 4 ohms! :o ) is the minimum you can get away with, for the big Maggies. A Soraya or a 100wpc proto-Aztec might just do it for the smaller ones.
Regards,
Andy
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Hi DSK,
Hughs Aztec is a 200w design, and he has cleared up the details and mystery surrounding this design. The 100w prototype that I built in Canada was merely originally for testing purposes, having only 33-0-33v ac trannies on hand the 100w was a function of economy and to prove that the concept even worked at all...My apologies if you were misled, thats why i included "prototype" in the title, this is merely my homemade boards from Hughs designs for the amp, scaled down to 100w.
Colin
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Thanks Colin,
Much appreciate the clarifying comments, and of course cannot express my gratitude enough for building the original proof of concept.
The Bailey amp topology has three separate circuit blocks; input stage, voltage amp stage, and output stage. Progressively, and starting some years ago with the input stage, I have now redesigned all three stages, producing respectively the Lifeforce, the Soraya and the Aztec.
This development completes the analysis and implementation of all three stages of this topology, and takes the Bailey amplifier to stratospheric performance levels. All three amp familes represent steadily mounting complexity, however, but the reward has been steadily increasing resolution, imaging, engagement, and load tolerance.
I will continue to sell a complete range of these amps, suitably packaged and priced to reflect their performance and utility to committed audiophiles. But development will now move to non-switching Class AB, tube hybrids, and Class A amplifiers. I will not say much about any of this until I have something ready to sell, but I would expect sales of LF, Soraya and ultimately the Aztec to continue at least ten years more. These are seriously good amplifiers, and there's not much can touch them out there. I fully expect my technical lead here to slowly erode, but when this process is complete, there will be other designs to take their place. Try as I might, I cannot walk away from what has become the most absorbing, fascinating and challenging work of my life. :banghead:
My sincere thanks go out to all those who have supported me by buying my products, ensuring I could go on, living simply but developing amps all the while, and enjoying the work more than I can say. :thankyou: In particular, I would like to thank two people, Colin Brown, aka Vynuhl_Addict, for his tireless construction of my wacky ideas, never once losing faith; and Laurie Menogue, the brilliant designer of the VSonics, which are probably the best two ways I have ever heard. Laurie, these are a sensational speaker, absolutely stunning, and they complement my amps superbly - particularly the Soraya, which I'm delighted to say as of yesterday you now own!!
Sorry to sound a bit intense, but it's Saturday night and Halloween...... :lol:
Hugh
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Hi DSK,
Hughs Aztec is a 200w design, and he has cleared up the details and mystery surrounding this design. The 100w prototype that I built in Canada was merely originally for testing purposes, having only 33-0-33v ac trannies on hand the 100w was a function of economy and to prove that the concept even worked at all...My apologies if you were misled, thats why i included "prototype" in the title, this is merely my homemade boards from Hughs designs for the amp, scaled down to 100w.
Colin
Thanks Colin, no problem ... I thought it may have been something like that. I'd had the 200w Aztec in the back of my mind as a future upgrade from the 100w LifeForce for my 84dB speakers. However, a recent speaker change (93dB) means I'll be keeping an eye on what Hugh comes up with in the tube hybrid space instead... perhaps bi-amped with the LifeForce on bass duties (though that would seem a bit of a waste of a great amp :oops:)
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No Problem,
I felt it need be clarified, and thank you Hugh for the elaborate post, much better that you fill it in ultimately. It will be nice to see the Aztec available in the future, it really is a splendid design of a wacky idea or three, sonically utterly transparent, dynamic and smooth, leaves plenty of room for fun with tubes in the chain...But each represents superior value and I have found all of the designs utterly enjoyable to listen too, but when Hughs around there is no such thing as standing still, the guy is always trying to out do himself, crazy bastard, haha. Happy Halloween Hugh, just celebrated my 30th on the 31st of OCT, a halloween baby here...
Colin
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However, a recent speaker change (93dB) means ...
Hi Darren - so what are these new speakers? :thumb:
Regards,
Andy
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However, a recent speaker change (93dB) means ...
Hi Darren - so what are these new speakers? :thumb:
Regards,
Andy
Hi Andy, I don't want to take this thread off course. All will be revealed soon :D and you'll get to hear them for yourself. Still dialling them in.
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I finally got around to taking some pictures of the updated LF55s:
- PSUs to Hugh's new design tailored to fit around Toroidal Xformers
- Sonicap Platinums for Input and Charge Suck-out (underneath boards)
- Nichicon Fine Gold caps replaced with Nichicon KZ
- Input low-pass filter - Naked Vishay + Relcap RTE Polystyrene/Foil
- Feedback Cap changed from BG to Wima Film
Pics are in my Gallery Here: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1185 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1185)
Cheers,
Ron.
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I have just posted today some additional pics, newer than the ones last week as I have completed and tidied up the wiring, of the LF55 with the new psu. See here: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=2815
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Ron, Steve,
Brilliant work, very neat, nice wire dress, outstanding componentry, in the spirit of what I am trying to achieve with my designs, congratulations to you both!
Thanks for showing the results, appreciated,
Hugh
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Not a single link on the first page worked. So of course I didn't bother with the rest. Pity
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Not a single link on the first page worked. So of course I didn't bother with the rest. Pity
You can check the gallery on the Aspen website....HERE... (http://www.aksaonline.com/discussion/discussion_gallery.html)