[opnly bafld]

I have long given up on the close minded with regards to measurements especially here on AC.
It's best to leave them as ignorant.

That's too funny. 
Which side of the argument are YOU on again? 

[jk@home]

The OP didn't state whether this was for music or HT (or both). Dayton makes the HF, HO, and Ultimax drivers for subs. The first being the one mostly recommended for Hi-Fi, the second one designed for smaller enclosures (car audio), and the Ultimax for the most excursion (HT). There appears to be no 18" HF driver, so he could go with the HO in a 3 cu.ft. box, or the Ultimax in a 4 cu.ft.

I built mine for the boom.

[JohnR]

one

There's your main problem.



With the kit, I'd worry that the amp will vibrate to pieces unless you wall it off. Have you considered using a normal pro amp?

[mcgsxr]

I cannot think of a better place to implement a Crown XLS 1500 amp.

Built in Xover, TONS of power, simple to use and efficient to operate.

I agonized over selling mine when I sold off my Maggies, but eventually did. 

I run an outboard plate amp for my sub.  I don't like the amp in the enclosure if I can avoid it.  In the future if the plate amp dies, it is easy to replace with a pro amp in my media closet.

[poseidonsvoice]

I cannot think of a better place to implement a Crown XLS 1500 amp.

Built in Xover, TONS of power, simple to use and efficient to operate.

I agonized over selling mine when I sold off my Maggies, but eventually did. 

I run an outboard plate amp for my sub.  I don't like the amp in the enclosure if I can avoid it.  In the future if the plate amp dies, it is easy to replace with a pro amp in my media closet.

There's your main problem.



With the kit, I'd worry that the amp will vibrate to pieces unless you wall it off. Have you considered using a normal pro amp?

Excellent points, although I think the OP was looking for simplicity instead of another 'box.' Walling off the plate amp is an option as well but ultimately a separate dsp/amp combo in a separate enclosure is best. Plate amp failure is real and can be a bit of a drag if you don't have a replacement (that fits in the hole you just created) or PE stops making the SPA1200/2400 DSP.

Another point is that you don't necessarily have to go for multisub (although I applaud JohnR for encouraging the OP  ), you can most definitely use this near field, with the DSP control and have a grand experience. Just need to wave the mic, use REW, and re-read those relevant articles from Hifizine .

Best,
Anand.

[andy_c]

Also check out this DIY Subwoofer FAQ, which has lots of tips, tricks and best practices for building and finishing subs.  One of these tips, which I thought was kind of cool, is to loop nylon cable ties through a couple of driver mounting holes to raise and lower the driver onto its mounting surface.  With drivers that are recessed into the baffle as they are with these boxes, it can be tricky to lift the driver back out once you've lowered it into its recessed mounting position.

Another thread worth checking out over there is the fasteners thread.

I'd recommend using an external pro amp like Crown XLS and Speakon speaker connectors (the ones with the large circular flange that seal properly).  You can get just the driver and box bundle from Parts Express too.  The polyfill is available from Wal-Mart for a lot cheaper than PE sells it for.

[jtwrace]

Thanks for all the feedback.