The OFFICIAL Super-7 thread

OzarkTom · « **Reply #340 on:** 12 Apr 2018, 08:22 pm »

I bought Dueland Alexander caps one time, they finally sounded great, but first 500 hours, pure fatigue.

Tyson · « **Reply #341 on:** 16 Apr 2018, 08:38 pm »

Quote from: Tyson on 11 Apr 2018, 01:32 am

Jupiter 10uf and 15uf copper/paper/wax caps came in today. Just got them soldered in. Listening to my first few tracks right now. DAYUM! These are a huge, huge, huge step up over the ClarityCap MRs (bypassed with .22 Jupiters) that I was using before.

It's like switching from speaker wire made out of aluminum to speaker wire made out of very good copper. Which, in a way, is exactly what I did. At this point, as far as I can tell, there's not any aluminum foil in any cap anywhere in the signal path. Except maybe in my Auralic Vega, but I'm fine with that, for now - hahaha!

Anyway, a bit more info on the sound change - DETAILS! They just jump out at you. I feel like I've never heard this level of detail before, on any system. It's at the same level as what I normally hear from top-level headphones. And everything sounds much BIGGER! More life size. Hell, maybe even larger than life (which I love). Downsides? They clearly need some burn in, as they are a bit rough/gritty sounding with zero burn in. But even the grittiness isn't irritating, rather it just presents everything with a "Tom Waits" sort of vibe.

I'll report back as things develop.

After about 5 hours these turned nasty - shallow, etched, flat and spitty sounding. I’m at about 30 hours now and still pretty rough. Sigh. How long is full burn in?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #342 on:** 16 Apr 2018, 09:02 pm »

Quote from: Tyson on 16 Apr 2018, 08:38 pm

After about 5 hours these turned nasty - shallow, etched, flat and spitty sounding. I’m at about 30 hours now and still pretty rough. Sigh. How long is full burn in?

Sadly those caps should take a long time to burn in. I am sure they recommend 400 to 500 hours.

Tyson · « **Reply #343 on:** 16 Apr 2018, 09:04 pm »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 16 Apr 2018, 09:02 pm

Sadly those caps should take a long time to burn in. I am sure they recommend 400 to 500 hours.

Kinda makes me want to pull out my solid state amp to use during the burn in. Save some of the tubes life.

mlundy57 · « **Reply #344 on:** 16 Apr 2018, 09:07 pm »

Quote from: Tyson on 16 Apr 2018, 09:04 pm

Kinda makes me want to pull out my solid state amp to use during the burn in. Save some of the tubes life.

That's what I do when burning something in. Hook up a SS amp and leave them playing almost 24/7. I turn them down real low at night then louder during the day when everybody is gone. That will get you there in about 3 weeks.

mikeeastman · « **Reply #345 on:** 16 Apr 2018, 09:47 pm »

I found they didn't start coming onto their own until at least 300 hrs and very close 400 hrs they were pretty close to 95%.

SoCalWJS · « **Reply #346 on:** 1 May 2018, 03:53 pm »

Quote from: Captainhemo on 6 Apr 2018, 04:39 pm

Yeah, was supposed to get an updated baffle yesterday, hoping it will arrive today so I can get it off to danny.

jay

Figured I'd throw out the usual query and see if there have been any changes/updates to the possibility of the Super-7's as a kit/flat pack.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #347 on:** 1 May 2018, 05:11 pm »

Quote from: SoCalWJS on 1 May 2018, 03:53 pm

Figured I'd throw out the usual query and see if there have been any changes/updates to the possibility of the Super-7's as a kit/flat pack.

I just received a new baffle to measure and test with. It looks real nice and rear mounts all of the drivers. Jay could probably post a few pics of it.

So it is in the works.

SoCalWJS · « **Reply #348 on:** 2 May 2018, 12:05 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 1 May 2018, 05:11 pm

I just received a new baffle to measure and test with. It looks real nice and rear mounts all of the drivers. Jay could probably post a few pics of it.

So it is in the works.

Great to hear! Looking forward to this one

Captainhemo · « **Reply #349 on:** 2 May 2018, 01:15 am »

Reworked the Neo3 waveguide a bit with these and put all the Neo 10's in waveguides as well. Should hopefully smoothen out he Neo3 even more and extend the low end of the Neo10's by a bit
All drivers are flush mounted in recess's on rear side of baffle, inner driver pockets are cut so drivers sit up tight to the rear face of the waveguides. Driver mounting screw holes are all pre-drilled for easy assembly.

A couple of the drawing/rendering as well

the drawings look a bit skewed, it's just the perspective
jay

orientalexpress · « **Reply #350 on:** 2 May 2018, 01:37 am »

Sweet

ebag4 · « **Reply #351 on:** 2 May 2018, 01:41 am »

You rock Jay! Very nice. You mentioned earlier it is about 30” tall, did this change? Would you share the width as well? I guess Danny will determine the wing dimensions during tests and measurements.

Thanks,
Ed

Jonathon Janusz · « **Reply #352 on:** 2 May 2018, 01:56 am »

...and all y'all thought you had it bad trying to veneer one little tweeter waveguide...

Glad to see progress made! Also, interesting to consider that this would give Danny an opportunity to maybe tweak the design with an asymmetrical wing pattern. If the baffle width lines up with the "standard" width of the H-frame servo woofers, this build could end up about as easy to put together for folks as a Super-V, with the preformed upper baffle and all.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #353 on:** 2 May 2018, 02:09 am »

Quote from: ebag4 on 2 May 2018, 01:41 am

You rock Jay! Very nice. You mentioned earlier it is about 30” tall, did this change? Would you share the width as well? I guess Danny will determine the wing dimensions during tests and measurements.

Thanks,
Ed

Thanks Ed. There is a basic shape idea for the wings already and I actually added .5" to each side of the baffles so they can fit into dado's in the wings. The inner dimension between the wings will be 13", same as the inner dimension of the subs.
I've actually been working on a way to have these bolt onto the upper module of our modular sub towers instead of the normal top panel. the top section wigns would also be 1.25" Medex to match the subs the baffle would be inset into the wide wings the same as the top/bottom module panels so a grill could be straight up from sub bottom to top of top section.
IIRC, the baffle is just under 29", I'll open the file up this eve to be sure (watching the games right now)

jay

Edit: yes Ed, they are 713 mm ( just over 28 " ) right now. there may need to be an adjustment still depending on how we implemnet the wings.

SoCalWJS · « **Reply #354 on:** 2 May 2018, 02:38 pm »

Quote from: Jonathon Janusz on 2 May 2018, 01:56 am

...and all y'all thought you had it bad trying to veneer one little tweeter waveguide...

Glad to see progress made! Also, interesting to consider that this would give Danny an opportunity to maybe tweak the design with an asymmetrical wing pattern. If the baffle width lines up with the "standard" width of the H-frame servo woofers, this build could end up about as easy to put together for folks as a Super-V, with the preformed upper baffle and all.

I can't imagine that task. I'd guess some form of Automotive-quality paint or spray on coating would be the norm on something this complex.

I have no clue on veneer on something this complicated. Is it possible to use a flat black spray on the waveguides, then veneer completely around them? I imagine they would be problematic at the edges right next to the waveguides.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #355 on:** 2 May 2018, 06:42 pm »

Or just paint the baffle black and put a grill over the drivers.

gab · « **Reply #356 on:** 2 May 2018, 06:49 pm »

Danny - will you be planning a kit with just the baffles, drivers, and crossover components WITHOUT the bass drivers and servo amps?

gab

gregfisk · « **Reply #357 on:** 2 May 2018, 07:20 pm »

Well, I just measured my top panel of my Super Vs which are longer than the stock panel and they are 25" x13". Do you think there is any way I could get all the drivers in that space? I know I could figure out a way to cover the current driver hole and make the face solid so I could start over but not sure everything will fit?

Greg

Captainhemo · « **Reply #358 on:** 2 May 2018, 08:51 pm »

Quote from: gregfisk on 2 May 2018, 07:20 pm

Well, I just measured my top panel of my Super Vs which are longer than the stock panel and they are 25" x13". Do you think there is any way I could get all the drivers in that space? I know I could figure out a way to cover the current driver hole and make the face solid so I could start over but not sure everything will fit?

Greg

Hey greg
there is enough room on these that if you were to cut a slice off below the bottom Neo 10 and the "crown off the top, you could get to 25"|
I don't know how your SV baffles are fastened in place but you'd have to get them out of there.
the other thing is, danny has not done final measurements onthese, stome changes may still occur.

jay

Jonathon Janusz · « **Reply #359 on:** 3 May 2018, 12:34 am »

Quote from: SoCalWJS on 2 May 2018, 02:38 pm

I can't imagine that task. I'd guess some form of Automotive-quality paint or spray on coating would be the norm on something this complex.

I have no clue on veneer on something this complicated. Is it possible to use a flat black spray on the waveguides, then veneer completely around them? I imagine they would be problematic at the edges right next to the waveguides.

I kid, I kid!

Seriously, though, although duratex and grills would make a perfectly fine and simple solution, I would put money down that someone among the very talented woodworkers that hang around here will figure it out and make it happen. For craftspeople well advanced into their art, this is the sort of challenge that makes the process fun and exciting, if for no other reason than to see if it can be done.

Putting the cart back behind the horse, I just think it is really cool that this project is moving along and more people will hopefully soon be able to enjoy these speakers. This is a speaker design that was here and gone far too soon!