Check out this thread:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=108166.0The OP posted pictures of a damaged RM-30. But, these pictures show you pretty much everything that you need to see.
01) The bottom plate needs to be removed.
02) Once upside down, the 2 small passive radiators, end up, need to be removed.
03) Also, the 10" side woofer is unwired and removed, which allows you to install the square boards inside the cabinet, used to plug the passive radiator openings.
04) With the side woofer out, you can access the crossover (partially seen through the woofer hole, in the 1st picture).
05) Picture 3 shows the crossover. The largest bundle of capacitors (4 paralleled together), is the midrange bundle. Add your 10uf cap to the bundle, and solder it in. Just like the picture, but now you'll have 5 sets of leads soldered together on each side, plus the connecting wire on each side. Simple. When adding the extra cap, it'd be good to either hot melt glue it to the other caps, or at least, ty-wrap all the caps together, if possible.
06) Rewire the 6.5 woofers in parallel.
07) Install the new 10" passive radiator.
08) Reinstall the bottom plate.
09) Send me the now unused 10" woofers!
From Brian:
"RM30 M:
Remove the side firing 10" active woofer and detach the wiring. The two front active 6" and the active 10" are in series/parallel. Lay the speaker on its back and unscrew the active 6", laying them face down on the front baffle. The new configuration is a straight parallel wiring of the two front 6" Discard the jumper wire and connect the neg (black or unmarked) wire from the crossover to the top 6" neg. terminal lug, then make a connection from there to the neg. terminal lug on the bottom woofer. Similarly, connect the pos (red purple, or lettered strand) woofer wire from the crossover to the pos. (red dot) lug on the top woofer, and connect a wire from there to the pos. lug on the bottom woofer.
Locate the 10uF cap supplied with the upgrade kit and wire it in parallel with the midrange caps (large bundle w/red wire attached), and solder in place. You will have to remove the fiberglass damping material inside the cabinet to access the crossover, located on the bottom terminal board. Reinstall this material when finished."
Good luck!
Stimpy
Thanks to the help of John Casler, I have acquired the parts needed to upgrade my VMPS RM30 M’s to Series II. I have read every post I could find on the procedure. I am posting here to see if any of you have done the procedure before and have some advice to lend before I get started. Specifically, the step requiring the soldering of the 10uf cap in parallel with the other midrange caps is where I could use some advice. It has been mentioned in some posts that instructions/pictures were include in the past along with the parts for this procedure. Do any of you have a copy of these instructions that could be scanned (or posted) to aid me in this step?
Also, any specifics of the brand of cap to get? I believe my speakers (purchased used 6 months ago) have had no crossover upgrade thus far.
