[mlundy57]

Peter,

What is the dark stuff on the corners?

Mike

[mlundy57]

Been out of town, got some more licks in today.

Here's a couple of teasers

It looks like you camphored the edges after the veneer was applied. Is that correct?

Mike 

[Peter J]

Right you are Mike.

 I glued in 3/8 x 3/8 strips of Wenge in first photo, then veneered box in what I think is rosewood (long story), and then chamfered vertical edges and top. The black and white photo shows them with a first seal coat of shellac. From here, I'll use grain filler, several coats of high build catalyzed sealer and finish up with pre-cat lacquer. Should be a really nice finish.

[BK_856er]

Peter J that edge treatment is super classy.  Can't wait to see the finished product.

BK

[mlundy57]

Right you are Mike.

 I glued in 3/8 x 3/8 strips of Wenge in first photo, then veneered box in what I think is rosewood (long story), and then chamfered vertical edges and top. The black and white photo shows them with a first seal coat of shellac. From here, I'll use grain filler, several coats of high build catalyzed sealer and finish up with pre-cat lacquer. Should be a really nice finish.

Peter,

If you were going to chamfer the edges, what was the purpose of the Wenge strips? Didn't the champfer cut through the strips?

Mike

[Captainhemo]

Peter,

If you were going to chamfer the edges, what was the purpose of the Wenge strips? Didn't the champfer cut through the strips?

Mike

I was wondering the exact same thing.... maybe a guede for putting onthe  "main" veneer" so it would line up  perfectly with  a 3/8" chamfer with out having to  cut through the  veneer and risk chipping ?

-jay

[Peter J]

When I chamfer the edges it exposes the wenge. Makes sort of a frame for the rosewood. Sharp bit, climb cutting and masking tape keeps veneer from chipping.

Unfortunately, I just screwed these up in a big way. I used a water based grain filler for the first time. Should've experimented on something besides the finished product. Finish coats show all kinds of blotching and uneven color, I'll have to tone the cabs heavily with dye to blend it all which will mostly obliterate the grain.

Live and learn... should've stuck with what I know. Guess that gives me an excuse to build another pair of perhaps five for a mini home theater...

[Captainhemo]

Pretty cool Peter 
I saw something similar done to some baes using a strip of hardwood on the ouotside edge/ face and then  veneer on top. 

Sorry to hear  you've run into some problems with the water based grain filler.

-jay

[mh720wake]

A bunch of 1st time building/newbie questions?   
    I would love for these to be my first GR build but need advise on changing the box design for custom 45deg computer desk , where i sit maybe only 16" from this spec box design.

   1. Could I make the box shallower and add height ?
   2. Could the port be moved to the front ,to allow back of box to be tight against the wall?
   3. Would it also benefit by raising the driver closer to ear height ("say 16") and maybe angle a bid , for one reason only , to play at low "DB"  levels
       for late night listing  "when all in the house are sleeping?
   4. what would be the safest way to run these on a larger amp (too many around here to use) and leave them at FULLRange/no sub  without damaging them?
       i am guessing Ill be using a 60w integrated amp if i can work this out.

   Thanks as I'm just now getting back to this hobby.


   

[Peter J]

A bunch of 1st time building/newbie questions?   
    I would love for these to be my first GR build but need advise on changing the box design for custom 45deg computer desk , where i sit maybe only 16" from this spec box design.

   1. Could I make the box shallower and add height ?
   2. Could the port be moved to the front ,to allow back of box to be tight against the wall?
   3. Would it also benefit by raising the driver closer to ear height ("say 16") and maybe angle a bid , for one reason only , to play at low "DB"  levels
       for late night listing  "when all in the house are sleeping?
   4. what would be the safest way to run these on a larger amp (too many around here to use) and leave them at FULLRange/no sub  without damaging them?
       i am guessing Ill be using a 60w integrated amp if i can work this out.

   Thanks as I'm just now getting back to this hobby.


   

I'll take at stab at some of this.
     1. I think so, within reason. If I understand (questionable), more depth than width is desirable. If there's a ratio, I'm not aware of it. Danny can shed light here, I imagine.
      2. Don't think so, Danny prototyped it on front and didn't like results. Perhaps side?
      3.Ear height is good, don't know that it will affect "hear-ability" elsewhere in the house. I use headphones for this scenario.
      4. Judicious use of volume control. I would think overdriving them would be fairly obvious at the listening distance.  You might want to reconsider sub, well integrated it makes a big difference in believability.

This build might prove useful, as I explored some possibilities;

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=103789.0

[Peter J]

As mentioned above, I goofed up. Once I saw that I was way off track from what I was shooting for, I necessarily went a different direction. I guess it's a lesson I needed to relearn...
Not awful, but not what they could be.

[Danny Richie]

   1. Could I make the box shallower and add height ?

Box depth is important. As is goes away so does some of its transparency. It will sound more boxed.

   2. Could the port be moved to the front ,to allow back of box to be tight against the wall?

Moving the port to the front adversely effects the response and muddies up the lower region. You can used sealed boxes though.

   3. Would it also benefit by raising the driver closer to ear height ("say 16") and maybe angle a bid , for one reason only , to play at low "DB"  levels
       for late night listing  "when all in the house are sleeping?

You can make stands for them or add additional box height with a false bottom.

   4. what would be the safest way to run these on a larger amp (too many around here to use) and leave them at FULLRange/no sub  without damaging them?

If you aren't filtering the lows off in some way then control them with your volume knob. You'll have more than enough power for them to quickly reach their X-Max. So just don't over drive them.

[Captainhemo]

As mentioned above, I goofed up. Once I saw that I was way off track from what I was shooting for, I necessarily went a different direction. I guess it's a lesson I needed to relearn...
Not awful, but not what they could be.

Very nice Peter.  I think they look  great 


-jay

[randytsuch]

Very nice Peter.  I think they look  great 


-jay

Ditto.
And I'm sure they look even better in person, hard to capture a nice finish in pictures.
I'm hoping my efforts won't be embarrassed in comparison 

Randy

[mh720wake]

  WOW ,  thanks for the quick reply Danny .
     I guess I should just build a stock pair , before I try and butcher up a 2nd pair by changing the box design .
 
   How about material for Box , would it be OK to us an actual  HARDWOOD  (maybe walnut)  instead of a MDF/laminate as these are so small?
  So how do I go about ordering a LGK 1.0 KIT , as I do not see  them on your site . I just the driver?

   

 

[Danny Richie]

  WOW ,  thanks for the quick reply Danny .
     I guess I should just build a stock pair , before I try and butcher up a 2nd pair by changing the box design .
 
   How about material for Box , would it be OK to us an actual  HARDWOOD  (maybe walnut)  instead of a MDF/laminate as these are so small?
  So how do I go about ordering a LGK 1.0 KIT , as I do not see  them on your site . I just the driver?

Hardwood is much more resonant. So you might get a little unwanted buzz with it.  It's better to use MDF then just skin it with a thin layer of hardwood.

You can call to order: 940-592-3400

[Peter J]

Ditto.
And I'm sure they look even better in person, hard to capture a nice finish in pictures.
I'm hoping my efforts won't be embarrassed in comparison 

Randy

Randy, camera flash is typically hard to deal with, I try to use natural light where possible, so they're pretty close to what they actually look like.
 
Your efforts will be just fine, I'm sure, no embarrassments whatever the outcome. For better or worse, I have boat loads of ideas about speaker box design, a few if which I actually build! I post photos in hopes that someone might take away a little inspiration. In turn I get to see their ideas come to fruition. Thus, I can fuel my crazy fire some more! 

[mresseguie]

Two things:

Peter,

Considering you said you had made a mistake with the veneer, your speakers look extremely nice. Mine, if I ever finish them, will get a coat of primer and one or two coats of whatever leftover paint is in the garage. They could end up lavender, white, cake batter  , or an olive drab-like color. It all depends on what is available. At best, mine will look plain.

My second thing is (to any and all experienced hands):

Okay. I've got the coil, cap, and inductor snugly attached to a piece of board with zip ties and silicone glue. I know they will be attached (screwed to) the back walls behind the drivers, but...

Correct me if I am wrong in my assumption:

I attach the red wire from the amp to one side of the filter and the white wire to the other side. Another red wire will lead from the filter/amp wire connection to one of the driver connections; ditto with a white wire. Does it matter if I attach the red wire to either driver connection?  I mean is there a right way and a catastrophic way? So long as there is a circuit does it matter which direction the electrons are flowing?

[I just attached speaker wires to the filter and the included red and white wires to a driver. Success! I got music.  I got music even if I switched polarity, but I want to think only one connection was correct and reversing polarity may damage the driver??? (Yes/No?)] 

I hope I haven't confused you horribly just now. Thanks for the hand holding.

[baniels]

Michael,

Maybe I am misreading you and this is what you did. I understood the connection as follows (leaving the terminals/Electra Tubes out of the equation for simplicity):

Amp Positive ---> 1 side of filter nework
Other side of the filter network --> Driver Positive terminal
Amp Negative -----> Driver Negative terminal

In other words, the negative side of the amp and negative side of driver will never touch the filter network.

I attach the red wire from the amp to one side of the filter and the white wire to the other side. Another red wire will lead from the filter/amp wire connection to one of the driver connections; ditto with a white wire. Does it matter if I attach the red wire to either driver connection?  I mean is there a right way and a catastrophic way? So long as there is a circuit does it matter which direction the electrons are flowing?

[I just attached speaker wires to the filter and the included red and white wires to a driver. Success! I got music.  I got music even if I switched polarity, but I want to think only one connection was correct and reversing polarity may damage the driver??? (Yes/No?)] 

[jparkhur]

Mlundy on the page back posted this:

Just like baniels says: 



Then white to white (negative to negative on driver)