[G E]

On the RM-30 model speakers there are dual binding posts with a strap to the second set of posts driving neopanels and tweets.

Analysis Oval is the jumper wire.

Is there any reason I should not attach my speaker cables to the lower posts (mid/tweet direct) and have the jumper drive the woofers?

[Bob Stark]

GE,

Try it both ways and see what you think.  I currently have my RM40s with the speaker cables running direct to the woofers and the jumpers going to the mid/trebles.

Good listening,
Bob

[Evoke]

On the RM-30 model speakers there are dual binding posts with a strap to the second set of posts driving neopanels and tweets.

Analysis Oval is the jumper wire.

Is there any reason I should not attach my speaker cables to the lower posts (mid/tweet direct) and have the jumper drive the woofers?

There can be a lot of opinions on this. Let's look at the physics first. The jumper connects both woofer and the top end of the speaker together allowing bi-wiring. The jumper a certain gauge of wire. IF... your speaker wires are of a larger gauge plug them into the woofer terminals. That will bypass the smaller gauge jumper and get more current to the woofer.


While the jumper is short - every little thing we do in our systems has a cumulative effect. On my designs, some of the positive effects include better damping and control over the cone. The bass has better extension and transient response.


Have fun!

[G E]

Last weekend I swapped the speaker cables attaching to the mid/hi posts and the jumpers running the woofers.

Upon first few listening sessions it sounded worse. Lost the rythymic drive and delicacy and became hard. It sounded no better Friday night.

But last night was a new ball game. My system never sounded as good as it did. All the air and delicacy was improved and a very solid low end. 3D imaging was the best ever. It made me giddy it was so good.

Now I have been fighting off a cold for weeks but I don't think this was ears clearing.


Was it the Jai Alai IPA from Cigar Store Brewery ((Tampa) ?

Probably not.

I know all the internal wiring is Anslysis Oval 9. So one wonders why the sound changes by eliminating a 6" scrap of wire from the muds/hi circuit.

It could be speaker cable break in. I bought them used but they were barely used in system (Morrow elite grand reference). I'll put them on my Hagerman cable cooker this week and next and hear what that does. The morrow cables characteristics change as they break in. 300-400 hours is typical break in time.

Looking forward to upgrading to the megawoofers. That should provide extra oomph.

[Evoke]

Glad to hear you experienced an improvement !!!  One thing you can do to improve the sound of the mega-woofer is to experiment with a mono-block amp or higher output amp. I test my speakers with 60, 100, 200 and 400 watts. The 60 watt is a joke. YUCK. With 100 the sound is good. But at 600 the dynamics and headroom go through the roof. 400 is just plain fun. Yes it will play louder - but it's also if another layer has been peeled off the onion. Mind you - all these objective observations are with the same drivers, crossovers, wires, connectors etc.


Glad you are having fun and unraveling more the equipment to reveal more of the music !!!  And, an IPA always helps. It's in all the technical publications - scientific fact, and all 

[G E]

Glad to hear you experienced an improvement !!!  One thing you can do to improve the sound of the mega-woofer is to experiment with a mono-block amp or higher output amp. I test my speakers with 60, 100, 200 and 400 watts. The 60 watt is a joke. YUCK. With 100 the sound is good. But at 600 the dynamics and headroom go through the roof. 400 is just plain fun. Yes it will play louder - but it's also if another layer has been peeled off the onion. Mind you - all these objective observations are with the same drivers, crossovers, wires, connectors etc.


Glad you are having fun and unraveling more the equipment to reveal more of the music !!!  And, an IPA always helps. It's in all the technical publications - scientific fact, and all 

Is this Mr. Casler by any chance?

I have been experimenting with Bryston 28bsst2 monoblocks the past few years. 1000 watts a side provides ample reserve. I used to have the 4bsst2 but sonically not a good match for the rest of my system. Once I managed to get the clipping indicator to light briefly. Not so with the 28's ha ha

Cable upgrades made a " bigly " difference. The high end Morrow stuff is very nice.

Now I just need to work up the courage to swap in a the mega woofers. I get nervous with pointy tools close to speaker cones. Oof!

[G E]

With the series 2 upgrade there are is no longer a need for passive radiator ports on the bottom

I remember one of the suggestions from several years ago was to make the RM 30's "hi-boys " by putting them on 6-8 inch pedestals.

i wonder what the effect would be to create a monolithic maple base that would replace the frame base and provide a net 6 inch height increase. It would add lots of mass and seal the ports at the same time.

Timber nation makes some nice amp stands and likely could make what I propose. Tempting to try it....

[Evoke]

Is this Mr. Casler by any chance?

I have been experimenting with Bryston 28bsst2 monoblocks the past few years. 1000 watts a side provides ample reserve. I used to have the 4bsst2 but sonically not a good match for the rest of my system. Once I managed to get the clipping indicator to light briefly. Not so with the 28's ha ha

Cable upgrades made a " bigly " difference. The high end Morrow stuff is very nice.

Now I just need to work up the courage to swap in a the mega woofers. I get nervous with pointy tools close to speaker cones. Oof!

Hi - No this is Mark with EVOKE ...


The Bryston 18 is a beast! It's funny to think you can use all that power. But when you consider impedance on a sub woofer rising and the dynamics - it's not all that power in the end. I send 400 watt amps into protection all the time with prototypes LOL


As for pointy tools - you are SO right. Here's what I do. Put your hand over the cone and surround. If the screwdriver slips you'll cut yourself - not the speaker. In the end skin grows back. It's what I do.