[Evoke]

There is so much written about surge protectors and power conditioners. RVs and boats also have low voltage protection which is actually the most dangerous to electronic components. Also, there is great concern about pure sine wave power for generators, inverters and such...


That said - it's important to start with good power to begin with. When I am involved in studio design, we go to great lengths to isolate power to a control room. Usually a dedicated source. Separate from lines with transformers and motors. Dedicated grounds. The proper amount of average to serve all the equipment - not at idle but peaks.


You can buy all the gear you want - but the best rooms usually start out with a clean power source. If you start with that, 90% of the battle is won.

[OzarkTom]

All of the better sounding amps that I have ever used, sounds better plugged into the wall. Power conditioners seems to constrict soundstage and dynamics on amplifiers.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

Surgex, Zerosurge and the Brick Wall are pretty much the same technology and units.  The Tripp Lite is a good unit and cheap.  These are just added protection from things like a lightening strike although it is no guaranty that electronics still won't get damaged.  But they do come with a monetary protection guaranty.

[SoundSound]

Thank you very much! All, all of you! 

Could somebody please estimate the max power consumption of Pass Labs XA30.5? I understand its power consumption at idle is approximately 200 watts. 

[Evoke]

Thank you very much! All, all of you! 

Could somebody please estimate the max power consumption of Pass Labs XA30.5? I understand its power consumption at idle is approximately 200 watts. 

According to the online manual in the download section: "With the exception of the largest of the X and XA series, there is no difficulty running two amplifiers on a single 15-amp circuit. Given the high current draw, we generally do not recommend active line conditioners, although they are unlikely to damage the [/size]amplifier."

[SoundSound]

As @OzarkTom noted "Power conditioners seems to constrict soundstage and dynamics on amplifiers" and @Evoke found that "... Given the high current draw, we generally do not recommend active line conditioners..." 

This is a pretty serious argument to follow @RDavidson's advice "Plug the amp straight into the wall"! 

I am not sure if SurgeX products mentioned by @I.Greyhound Fan are "active line conditioners" or work on some other principle, and do not "constrict soundstage and dynamics" of amplifiers... 

@Evoke, is it possible to provide an estimate like this: While working in class A, power consumption of XA30.5 does not exceed XXX watts?  Probably not, silly me... 

[kingdeezie]

As @OzarkTom noted "Power conditioners seems to constrict soundstage and dynamics on amplifiers" and @Evoke found that "... Given the high current draw, we generally do not recommend active line conditioners..." 

This is a pretty serious argument to follow @RDavidson's advice "Plug the amp straight into the wall"! 

I am not sure if SurgeX products mentioned by @I.Greyhound Fan are "active line conditioners" or work on some other principle, and do not "constrict soundstage and dynamics" of amplifiers... 

@Evoke, is it possible to provide an estimate like this: While working in class A, power consumption of XA30.5 does not exceed XXX watts?  Probably not, silly me... 

I would be careful assuming anything is 100 percent applicable, until you have tried it for yourself. I, for many years, plugged my amplifier straight into the wall for fear of doing harm to the sound because it was what I read was appropriate. 

One day, for kicks, I plugged my amplifier into my SR Powercell 10SE, and the sound was most certainly better. Now, I have never measured, but I am pretty sure, given that I live in an older townhome, that my power is pretty poor. Everything sounds better through the conditioner here. So, it could very well be possible that, given better power, an amp would be better straight to the wall. However, you can only play the hands you are dealt. 

Right now I have a Pass XA30.8 plugged into the same SR PC10SE, and I am very happy with the sound. If you have a good conditioner, I would try it for yourself, and see if you enjoy it more.   

[RDavidson]

Agree. That's the BEST advice. Try for yourself and see. All of us have different ears, systems, rooms, etc. I think the OP is mostly concerned with protection ; Protection that won't harm the sound. This can be tricky, but I think the key here is to at least start with proven technology (like SurgeX). Get a simple unit that serves your power requirements and doesn't limit current. Call Pass and find out what the maximum power draw is and get a surge protector that fits the rating plus extra.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

My advice, get a surge suppressor.  A little extra protection is well worth it when dealing with thousands of dollars worth of audio gear.  You never think that a lightening strike will happen to you, but it has happened twice to me and I was glad to have suppressors.  I did lose some cheap electronic gear that was not protected on the second strike.  I have listened to my Pass amp with and without a SS and there was no difference in sound.  I can't speak for a power conditioner though.

[kingdeezie]

Agree. That's the BEST advice. Try for yourself and see. All of us have different ears, systems, rooms, etc. I think the OP is mostly concerned with protection ; Protection that won't harm the sound. This can be tricky, but I think the key here is to at least start with proven technology (like SurgeX). Get a simple unit that serves your power requirements and doesn't limit current. Call Pass and find out what the maximum power draw is and get a surge protector that fits the rating plus extra.

I have a whole house protector on my panel. Hasn't failed me yet. Might be something the OP can look into. The installation likely costs more than the unit itself. The Bryston units are supposed to be good as well.

[SoundSound]

Thank you all very kindly for your most appreciated help and GREAT patience with yours truly! 

The beast has finally arrived, and am waiting for a hand with setting it up into my rack! 

Any final suggestions, please?

[JackD]

If you want to try plugging straight into the wall first but also have surge protection try one of these.

http://www.bluecircle.com/page95.html

Same principal as most surge protectors that don't use the tech that Surgex, Brick Wall use.  Plug it into any outlet on the same circuit as the amp and it will protect the whole circuit.  Several dealers on A'Gon and US Audiomart sell them.  They are about $29 a piece.  I have one plugged into an outlet on each of my three 20 amp circuits in the Audio Room.  As it turns out you can buy them for cheaper in packs of three. 

[Steve]

Thank you very much! All, all of you! 

Could somebody please estimate the max power consumption of Pass Labs XA30.5? I understand its power consumption at idle is approximately 200 watts. 

I see it is listed as Class A, SS. Therefore, by definition, the average current draw remains constant, 2 amps as long as the amp does not clip. If the amp goes into class AB1, then the peak current would be higher. But with class A, the current at max output power will remain the same as idle.

In fact, by definition, the maximum dissipation of the output devices occurs at idle. As the output power increases above zero, the dissipation of the output devices is reduced, approximately by the actual output power.

Hope this helps.
Steve

[RDavidson]

I see it is listed as Class A, SS. Therefore, by definition, the average current draw remains constant, 2 amps as long as the amp does not clip. If the amp goes into class AB1, then the peak current would be higher. But with class A, the current at max output power will remain the same as idle.

In fact, by definition, the maximum dissipation of the output devices occurs at idle. As the output power increases above zero, the dissipation of the output devices is reduced, approximately by the actual output power.

Hope this helps.
Steve

Steve,

that's correct for a pure class A amp.

The tricky part is that Pass amps flip to class A/B when pushed. In this case they can actually put out MUCH more power than their class A rating. I wish Pass published the A/B output spec along side the A output spec. Per Stereophile :

"Superficially, the XA30.5 appears to be a 30Wpc class-A design. But this is not the maximum output power. The specifications list the amplifier's maximum output voltage as ±35V, which, assuming this is the RMS voltage, is equivalent to 153W into 8 ohms. The XA30.5 thus transitions into class-B for the top 6dB of its dynamic-range capability."

Per their tests:
"Fig.4 shows how the THD+noise percentage in the amplifier's output varies with output power into 8, 4, and 2 ohms. While the XA30.5 may give 30Wpc into 8 ohms in class-A (14.8dBW), the distortion at this power level is low, at 0.015%. The amplifier doesn't actually clip (defined as the THD reaching 1%) until a much higher power level: 130Wpc into 8 ohms (21.14dBW). Even higher powers were available into lower impedances before clipping: 195Wpc into 4 ohms with both channels driven (19.9dBW), and 332W into 2 ohms with one channel driven (19.2dBW)."

I still wouldn't recommend plugging the amp into a power filter, but if you get a surge protector I think getting one that is rated for 600 watts (just for the amp) should be just fine. You can get away with less, but a surge protector with at least 600 watt capability is pretty modest / normal these days anyway. If you plan to plug other components into the surge protector, you can probably look in their manuals to get their power draw.

[SoundSound]

Thank you all very kindly, as always!

Can I employ the CP1500PFCLCD (please see at https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/cp1500pfclcd/) as a surge suppressor, please? 

All Battery & Surge Protected Outlets I am using with my computer setup, and I thought I can use the other 5 surge-only outlets as a surge suppressor for my Hi-Fi system.

These 5 surge-only outlets, as far as I understand, simply work as a pass-through, so whatever the incoming utility line voltage and frequency is, that’s what I will get at those outlets. Just like a simple surge-strip, not a power filter, i.e., not a current-limiting device.

As a test (was it a stupid one?) I connected my 850W toaster to one of the surge-only outlets, while all computer equipment connected to Battery & Surge Protected Outlets was in use, and everything appeared working just fine

Does this mean I can connect my Hi-Fi system to these 5 surge-only outlets, and be happy I have it protected from power surges?

[RDavidson]

I don't see a reason you wouldn't be able to. Go for it. Actually, your toaster test seems reasonable to me. They draw quite a bit of power, as do vacuum cleaners and blenders.

[OzarkTom]

If your house gets a direct hit by lightening, no surge protector made will stop that into saving your equipment. I always unplug mine.

[mav52]

Agree. That's the BEST advice. Try for yourself and see. All of us have different ears, systems, rooms, etc. I think the OP is mostly concerned with protection ; Protection that won't harm the sound. This can be tricky, but I think the key here is to at least start with proven technology (like SurgeX). Get a simple unit that serves your power requirements and doesn't limit current. Call Pass and find out what the maximum power draw is and get a surge protector that fits the rating plus extra.

I own a XA30.5.  According to Kent English at Pass  :   

Stand=by is less than 0.5W.   Approx 2000hr for 1 kW/hr draw

 Idle, meaning till you exceed class a rating of 30W delivered to speaker is 200w.  So every 5 hrs of running is 1kW/hr

[RDavidson]

If your house gets a direct hit by lightening, no surge protector made will stop that into saving your equipment. I always unplug mine.

My point earlier. And if your house takes a direct hit, I kind of doubt that your audio gear will be at the top of your list of concerns.....maybe 2nd or 3rd on the list.

[I.Greyhound Fan]

My house is grounded but it got struck by lightening and it blew out some electronics that were not on a surge suppressor.  My surge suppressors did trip and saved my other gear that were on the same circuit.  But my neighbors house was struck and he was in his living room and a bolt shot across his living room and it took out every electrical appliance in his house.