TPA3110 and TPS3116 amps

rhing · « **Reply #40 on:** 22 Dec 2013, 05:38 pm »

Following the Cheap and Cheerful spirit, I use the Walmart ("White Lightning Moonshine") Wood Patio Cable. 2 x 16AWG for "+" and 1 x 16AWG for "-." My cables are 10 ft. per side.

Believe or not, these cables beat out Kimber Kable 8TC, and cost far less. I will try a few more tests today, if I can break free from the NFL Red Zone. Too many good games to watch.

MLS · « **Reply #41 on:** 22 Dec 2013, 07:13 pm »

I am using 14ga Monoprice speaker cable, a 12 volt 5 amp brick power supply, and a monster cable 3 mm to RCA interconnect I had lying around.

Thomas0322 · « **Reply #42 on:** 22 Dec 2013, 07:54 pm »

I can appreciate hooking up the TPA3110 to the ARC preamp to really asses what the little amp can do. When it comes to a combination of amp and preamp that might be out there playing music in a system that is cost effective, then I'd think about a preamp that is not that far off in price from the amplifier. Looking around on eBay, I see some preamps that are in the $50 range. I have no idea about the build or audio quality of these units. Here's some links. Does anyone have information about any of them? Perhaps a suggestion for a decent (or maybe even good) preamp in this price range....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6N3-6Z4-tube-valve-preamp-amplifier-preamplifier-CLASS-A-transformer-110V-220V-U/291042799167?_trksid=p2047675.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D13%26meid%3D3584147163348854625%26pid%3D100012%26prg%3D1014%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D291041259493%26

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120597413290?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261341656674?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Another way to go would be to build around a stepped attenuator.

raysracing · « **Reply #43 on:** 23 Dec 2013, 09:18 pm »

Okay, now if my 3116 would just show up! I think I should add an LED so I know when the power is on too. I've lost two SLA's by accidentally leaving them on.

lacro · « **Reply #44 on:** 24 Dec 2013, 12:02 am »

Quote from: raysracing on 23 Dec 2013, 09:18 pm

Okay, now if my 3116 would just show up! I think I should add an LED so I know when the power is on too. I've lost two SLA's by accidentally leaving them on.

It looks like you are using the same type of rocker switch I am, but the one I have has an LED "on" light. Mine is blue, but other colors are available. Got it at PE.

Mr. Oczka · « **Reply #45 on:** 24 Dec 2013, 04:16 am »

Those cases look like they were made for the amp! Where did you guys get them? I'd like to pick one or two up for myself. Were the holes for the connectors already cut? I'm going to guess "no".

raysracing · « **Reply #46 on:** 24 Dec 2013, 05:44 am »

Quote from: Mr. Oczka on 24 Dec 2013, 04:16 am

Those cases look like they were made for the amp! Where did you guys get them? I'd like to pick one or two up for myself. Were the holes for the connectors already cut? I'm going to guess "no".

This is a radio shack special "Project Box." $7.99 I think. I bought a step drill as the rocker switch required a 3/4" hole. I couldn't wait to start so I got what I could locally.

Ray

Mr. Oczka · « **Reply #47 on:** 24 Dec 2013, 11:53 am »

Thank you for the info! I think I will be visiting Radio Shack this morning for a last minute present for myself.

rhing · « **Reply #48 on:** 24 Dec 2013, 07:44 pm »

I was able to reduce and almost eliminate the noise problem with my Sure TPA3110 amp. I inserted 33kohm resistors between the signal inputs and signal grounds. My preference would have been to try 47kohm resistors or place a 50k log pot between the RCA inputs and board inputs. Nonetheless, this amp sounds awesome connected to my ARC LS7 line stage preamp and Klipsch Forte II speakers. With the hiss and high frequency glare gone, I can really hear what this amp is capable of delivering. This amp has really good tonality and a large soundstage. It's amazing that I am getting this level of volume from a low powered Class D amp without clipping or any soundstage collapse. I need to do more listening to really assess this amp.

wushuliu · « **Reply #49 on:** 24 Dec 2013, 07:56 pm »

Quote from: rhing on 24 Dec 2013, 07:44 pm

I was able to reduce and almost eliminate the noise problem with my Sure TPA3110 amp. I inserted 33kohm resistors between the signal inputs and signal grounds. My preference would have been to try 47kohm resistors or place a 50k log pot between the RCA inputs and board inputs. Nonetheless, this amp sounds awesome connected to my ARC LS7 line stage preamp and Klipsch Forte II speakers. With the hiss and high frequency glare gone, I can really hear what this amp is capable of delivering. This amp has really good tonality and a large soundstage. It's amazing that I am getting this level of volume from a low powered Class D amp without clipping or any soundstage collapse. I need to do more listening to really assess this amp.

raysracing · « **Reply #50 on:** 24 Dec 2013, 08:06 pm »

I bought the unit with tone controls. I will sell it off for one without. I guess I go in the camp of no tone controls and they don't have a center detent. It will drive me nuts. If I keep it I need to add a delay on power on to avoid the pop. Hit me up if you want it.

shadowlight · « **Reply #51 on:** 25 Dec 2013, 01:34 am »

Question for folks who have or used Sure 3110 board. On the board on the right side of the power connector there is a gnd/vcc connection is that another power connection? I was wondering if we can use 12V battery on that. If yes, assuming that the negative connection from battery needs to go to gnd input while positive needs to go to vcc end.

thx

EDIT: Happy Holidays to everyone

mboxler · « **Reply #52 on:** 25 Dec 2013, 04:30 am »

Quote from: shadowlight on 25 Dec 2013, 01:34 am

Question for folks who have or used Sure 3110 board. On the board on the right side of the power connector there is a gnd/vcc connection is that another power connection? I was wondering if we can use 12V battery on that. If yes, assuming that the negative connection from battery needs to go to gnd input while positive needs to go to vcc end.

thx

EDIT: Happy Holidays to everyone

Don't have one, but I'd say yes to both. Here's a link to a page to download the manual for the amp, if that will help.

http://www.sure-electronics.net/download/index.php?name=AA-AB32231&type=0

Mike

rhing · « **Reply #53 on:** 25 Dec 2013, 05:52 am »

Quote from: shadowlight on 25 Dec 2013, 01:34 am

Question for folks who have or used Sure 3110 board. On the board on the right side of the power connector there is a gnd/vcc connection is that another power connection? I was wondering if we can use 12V battery on that. If yes, assuming that the negative connection from battery needs to go to gnd input while positive needs to go to vcc end.

thx

EDIT: Happy Holidays to everyone

Happy Holidays to all.

You are correct. The optional power terminal block is for those who want to use a DC power connection other than the 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC power connector.

lacro · « **Reply #54 on:** 25 Dec 2013, 03:41 pm »

Quote from: rhing on 25 Dec 2013, 05:52 am

Happy Holidays to all.

You are correct. The optional power terminal block is for those who want to use a DC power connection other than the 2.1mm x 5.5mm DC power connector.

Actually that's the terminals I am using with my brick PS. Should I not be doing so?

I am really enjoying this little amp

I pulled it from service yesterday so I could do more work on the case I built it into. I replaced it with my Parts Express DTA-100A. What a disappointment!! The "Little ass Kicker" sounds so much better even with with 1/10th the power.

rhing · « **Reply #55 on:** 25 Dec 2013, 05:23 pm »

Merry Christmas. You can use either power connection, but not both at the same time.

For my amp, I am going to install a pair of Panasonic FR 680uF / 25V low ESR electrolytic caps on the power supply rails to enhance dynamic and bass response. These two caps couple the amp to the power supply and provide additional filtering and instantaneous, on-demand current. I am also considering replacing the 1uF SMD coupling caps with either 2.2uF or 3.3uF ceramic SMD coupling caps. A friend gave me a really nice Metcal soldering station with the heated tweezer tips for soldering and desoldering those tiny SMD components without frying them.

I may also use some Belden 88641 plenum cable for connecting the RCA inputs with the board inputs to minimize RFI. The Belden cable is foil-shielded, Teflon-insulated OFC that Jim McShane sells by the foot. I used it in rebuilding a Dynaco SCA-35 integrated amp where I needed it for the phono stage.

shadowlight · « **Reply #56 on:** 25 Dec 2013, 07:57 pm »

rhing,

pictures of the modification please

rhing · « **Reply #57 on:** 25 Dec 2013, 08:27 pm »

Quote from: shadowlight on 25 Dec 2013, 07:57 pm

rhing,

pictures of the modification please

Merry Christmas shadowlight!

In the photo below, I used 33kohm resistors, because that's all I had in my stash. Since they are not the optimal value of 47kohms, I only wrapped the leads to hold them in place temporarily, but the best place to solder them into place would be on the circuit board between thru-holes labeled:

CH1 - GND
CH2 - GND

I'm getting some Vishay-Dale 47kohm RN60 metal film resistors along with Panasonic FR 680uF / 25V low ESR electrolytic caps for the power supply rails (Panasonic PN EEU-FR1E681L). These parts are available through Digikey and Mouser.

On my makeshift chassis, I will fabricate a front plate using Aluminum angle stock to mount the RCA connectors up front and closer to the PCB inputs to keep the signal wires as short as possible to minimize noise.

shadowlight · « **Reply #58 on:** 26 Dec 2013, 12:35 am »

Merry Christmas Rhing.

Thank you for the pictures.

S Clark · « **Reply #59 on:** 26 Dec 2013, 12:46 am »

OK, I'll be the slow kid on the back row... what do these resistors do exactly? What is the function of having a high resistance short across the signal path?

Scott