Freerider's LS6 build

freerider · « **Reply #20 on:** 5 Oct 2011, 04:57 pm »

Question: Do the plastic ports need to be glued together with PVC glue, or just pushed together, and left alone.

Of course the port will need to be glued to the cabinet.

Hugh · « **Reply #21 on:** 5 Oct 2011, 05:26 pm »

Pushed together.

Quote from: freerider on 5 Oct 2011, 04:57 pm

Question: Do the plastic ports need to be glued together with PVC glue, or just pushed together, and left alone.

Of course the port will need to be glued to the cabinet.

S Clark · « **Reply #22 on:** 5 Oct 2011, 05:47 pm »

If they fit loosely, use a bit of glue. Unless they are a snug fit, they will eventually work loose. I had to glue a couple of mine. As far as gluing to the cabinet, mine didn't need glue. The holes were cut a bit small on my cabinet, and I had to sand the port by about 1/64" in order to pound them into place.

Scott

Danny Richie · « **Reply #23 on:** 6 Oct 2011, 02:12 am »

I coat the inside edge of the ports with clear Silicon.

freerider · « **Reply #24 on:** 6 Oct 2011, 05:19 am »

Quote from: Danny on 6 Oct 2011, 02:12 am

I coat the inside edge of the ports with clear Silicon.

Inside edge meaning the part that mates with the cabinet?

I was also wondering what the guidance is for NoRez application. I can't find the thread where it was discussed before.

In particular, I'm wondering about all the hard to reach areas, such as the bottom of the cabinet, the back side of the tweeter box, the circular area around the ports, and the side of the tweeter box next to the woofers.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #25 on:** 6 Oct 2011, 01:18 pm »

Yes, I just just add a little Silicone on the edges of the ports when installing the outer flares to the cabinet. Basically they are glued in with Silicone. And just glue in the outer flare only. Do that before installing the rest of the port.

No need for No Rez on the tweeter box, and don't worry about cutting a perfect circle around the ports. If you just cover the back wall from the port to the far wall behind the tweeters then that will be good. None is needed in the floor of the box either. Remember you are trying to take away any panels ability to resonant with No Rez.

Also, on the side that the woofer is on you will need to stay back a good inch and a half off of the front baffle so you are not forcing the woofers to play through the foam.

After all of the No Rez has been installed, then use ABS plastic cement to glue in the port tubes.

Then add a loose fill of fiberglass insulation or poly fill from the back of the box up to the front of the ports. Also cover all of the area behind the tweeter box with loose fill.

After all of the insulation is in then glue in the front port flare.

Quote from: freerider on 6 Oct 2011, 05:19 am

Inside edge meaning the part that mates with the cabinet?

I was also wondering what the guidance is for No Rez application. I can't find the thread where it was discussed before.

In particular, I'm wondering about all the hard to reach areas, such as the bottom of the cabinet, the back side of the tweeter box, the circular area around the ports, and the side of the tweeter box next to the woofers.

freerider · « **Reply #26 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 06:29 am »

Thanks Danny!

Does anyone happen to know what size or brand of binding post AV123 used on these LS6 cabinets? The pre-drilled holes are too big for my binding posts, and too small for the ones that came in the kit.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #27 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 01:10 pm »

I have been sending LS series kits out with the Electra Tube connectors. Nothing works better.

jparkhur · « **Reply #28 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 01:18 pm »

buy the tube connectors from danny, they are so much easier to solder and place, rather than having to tighten down a bolt way on the inside. Also, there is a 1 mm space between the wire end and the connector, can't beat that. JP

freerider · « **Reply #29 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 05:42 pm »

Quote from: jparkhur on 7 Oct 2011, 01:18 pm

buy the tube connectors from danny, they are so much easier to solder and place, rather than having to tighten down a bolt way on the inside. Also, there is a 1 mm space between the wire end and the connector, can't beat that. JP

I don't consider soldering or ease of install to be a factor. The panel comes off the cabinet, so there is no issue with bolts, nuts or soldering any type of connector.

If I try to drill out these holes to fit the tube connectors, I'm afraid of massacring the veneer. I'd rather have a typical binding connector, than a damaged veneer.

jparkhur · « **Reply #30 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 07:28 pm »

The tube connectors will fit right in those holes. YOu will not have to do any drilling as I see it.

They pop right in...

freerider · « **Reply #31 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 07:41 pm »

Quote from: jparkhur on 7 Oct 2011, 07:28 pm

The tube connectors will fit right in those holes. YOu will not have to do any drilling as I see it.

They pop right in...

I can take another picture tonight, but they are 1/8" or more too small in diameter. Conversely, they are about the same distance too big for the other binding connector I have.

That's why I figured they were made from something AV123 used.
These look like something I saw in other AV123 pictures:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-630

Danny Richie · « **Reply #32 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 08:19 pm »

I have installed tube connectors in several of those LS-6 and LS-9 rear panels. Just go up a little at a time on the drill bit size and it is no problem.

Even if the veneer does get a slight ding in the edge, the tube connector covers right over it with the flange.

And there is no sense is taking a world class speaker and using cheesy Brass binding posts from PE when you could use a pure Copper tube that will not degrade the signal.

freerider · « **Reply #33 on:** 7 Oct 2011, 08:32 pm »

Ok, thanks! Going up a bit at a time is a great idea.

freerider · « **Reply #34 on:** 8 Oct 2011, 10:51 pm »

I kinda messed up on the NoRez application, and put it too close to the woofers. The black line is 1.5" from the front baffle.

I did this before I read the 1" to 1.5" advice; it is glued on.

I need to know if my proposed fix is ok, or if I should just cut back a full rectangular piece.

The easiest fix, is to use a hole cutting bit on my drill and do this:

Danny Richie · « **Reply #35 on:** 9 Oct 2011, 02:26 am »

Your fix will be okay.

freerider · « **Reply #36 on:** 9 Oct 2011, 02:49 am »

Thanks again Danny. I've got two more questions, and I should be done asking for a while.

Would it be better to leave an 1.5" of space before the NoRez, or cut out around the woofer like I did in my "fix"? I ask because my 2nd cabinet is still empty, so I could go either way.

Also, I know you mentioned NoRez does not go on the base, but I need clarification on whether that means I should layer the walls of the bottom of the cabinet or not. Right now, I've stopped at the 8th woofer, but I could easily keep going. I've got plenty of NoRez.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #37 on:** 9 Oct 2011, 08:07 pm »

Your fix worked fine. Make both boxes the same.

I am guilty of a little overkill sometimes myself and will cut the front edge of the No Rez with the table saw blade at a 45 degree angle to keep the foam back from the woofers while still allowing maximum coverage of the dampening layer.

You need to layer all of the walls in the lower section too. The Base (meaning the floor of the cabinet) does not need covering.

freerider · « **Reply #38 on:** 10 Oct 2011, 03:26 am »

Thanks for the help!

Here's some random pics of the build so far.

Wow, that's a lot of parts!

This is why the NoRez will never come off. (I smoothed out the bead with a putty knife before installing.)

That ABS Cement caused me some grief. It sets up fast, and doesn't let go! Had to make sure the ports were perfectly straight, cause there's no second chance. This is also the clear caulk that I used for the rear ports seated into the cabinet.

NoRez, ports and polyfill installed. Ready to start soldering. (Tweeter box has polyfill as well. This picture was before I drilled two small holes for the tweeter wires.

freerider · « **Reply #39 on:** 10 Oct 2011, 03:28 am »

Can anyone tell me if this is a good configuration for the crossover and bass management?

I can make both boards fit with no problem, by pushing them into the NoRez slightly. Screwing them down won't be easy, but I think it would be worth it, to have the bass management in such a convenient location.