[AKLegal]

Would not just finding the appropriate height for the tweeter and just extending the baffle and wings down to the floor to make a floorstander work?  Of course that would be for those who only want the mmtmm section and not the all out line array. Then you could just make a separate H frame for 2 12 inch servos or 3  8 inch servos. 

How hard is it to make the waveguides?  It looks like you could just use a chamfer bit with a long enough cutting edge.

How long is the longer wing?

[jparkhur]

I guess you could buy a full baffle set up and work your way in to filling it as your funds got bigger.  You could always cover the empty holes with a nice veneer, then remove it when you expand your drivers.  That would be economical and practical.

P

[gab]

Here is a thought for a very low cost version to handle 250 Hz and down. Stand mount the MMTMM. Next to it, some version of this (maybe a little shorter?):


This is John Busch's (Manzanita Audio) $4000 Ultra Plus! loudspeaker. I heard the single woofer version (Manzanita CV) at LSAF this month and the bass was very good from these inexpensive drivers. These are the GRS15PF-8 woofers from Parts Express. 4 of them would cost you $100. http://www.parts-express.com/grs-15pf-8-15-paper-cone-foam-surround-woofer--292-415

Sensitivity with the MMTMM won't be there but an inexpensive plate amp would do the trick. Then your favorite tube amp on top.

Maybe not everyone's cup of tea (especially the wife) but excellent bang for the buck. Keep it inexpensive Danny!

gab

[Beardy]

The option for non-servoed subs below the MMTMM `module' is a good one; Some people will prefer it on cost and some on the basis that they want a `traditional' speaker with a `normal' cross over.

However, it since getting 6 channels of identical amps is relatively cheap these days, can you make an option available an analog line level cross over for people who might want to go active?

[corndog71]

The throat or wave guide was extremely difficult to do even with the help of master wood workers.  Many trial and errors.  A CNC machine most likely could not do it without some hands on work in the end.  Even with jigs and help, there is some fine tuning that has to be done to get the end result.  My guess is that the 90 percent DIY  (or more) would cut it wrong and end up with a sub par result.

P

I guess you could buy a full baffle set up and work your way in to filling it as your funds got bigger.  You could always cover the empty holes with a nice veneer, then remove it when you expand your drivers.  That would be economical and practical.

P

I was all over this last night but now it sounds like it might be better off as a finished speaker than a kit. 

[jparkhur]

Danny:  Already knew the baffle would have to be part of the kit. It is too tough for the average guy to make.  (from page 2)


The baffle would be in the kit. 

P

[nickd]

Sounds like two kits are needed.

1 Monitor size like the one JP sent to Danny in the pictures.
2 full line source with subs offered as an option.

The wave guide could be provided with the tweeter as a glue in piece or "face plate". it could be made from MDF, plastic, Aluminum or whatever works. The DIY folks could then make their own baffles, glue in the tweeter plate / wave guide and get creative.
 

[corndog71]

Danny:  Already knew the baffle would have to be part of the kit. It is too tough for the average guy to make.  (from page 2)

The baffle would be in the kit. 

P

Right.  I did read that. 

Will there be a range of colors? 

I'm digging this design.  Doesn't look too expensive.  Efficient enough I could possibly drive it with a flea-watt amp.  (There's one I've been drooling over for a couple of years) 

I already have one servo sub amp.  Just need one more and a quad of 8's.  Plus the sub cabinets... Shoot, this is adding up quick! 

[jparkhur]

Sounds like two kits are needed.

1 Monitor size like the one JP sent to Danny in the pictures.
2 full line source with subs offered as an option.

The wave guide could be provided with the tweeter as a glue in piece or "face plate". it could be made from MDF, plastic, Aluminum or whatever works. The DIY folks could then make their own baffles, glue in the tweeter plate / wave guide and get creative.
 

Thinking out loud so it may not make sense.... I am concerned about rigidity in the baffle.  If someone could set me straight I would be ok.   How about the ol kenex version.  What about single tweeter baffles,  and single woofer modules then you glue them together, but the wings would be solid to set rigidity in speaker?   The kit could include, small shipping, woofers, tweeter and 5x5 squares of what you need.  ????

?  If you don't glue them right, you may have to plane them?  Sand them flat

?  Will need some clamps.

? No need for wood working skills

?????

JP

[jparkhur]

If you notice the picture that Danny posted, those are all individual pieces from the ones that I had success on, glued and planed... 


JP

[AKLegal]

The wave guide could be provided with the tweeter as a glue in piece or "face plate". it could be made from MDF, plastic, Aluminum or whatever works. The DIY folks could then make their own baffles, glue in the tweeter plate / wave guide and get creative.

This would be good as i would opt to build the "monitor" version to be a floorstander to avoid building a separate stand.  Plus, as with all DIY, there is the potential for screwups and I would hate to mess up one of these hard to make baffles during the process of building the speakers.  It would be better to get everything right and then just drop in the tweeter and waveguide into your own DIY baffle.

If you notice the picture that Danny posted, those are all individual pieces from the ones that I had success on, glued and planed... 


JP

I was wondering why the baffle was two different colors. 

[Hank]

Danny, I was thinking two 8" servo subs in a base that the line array would sit on.  If these things sound as good as you say, then they deserve subs that will match their sound quality, rather than the $75 drivers.  But, why three per speaker?  Did you model two and reject because of low output?  Maybe ONE 8" servo sub in a sealed enclosure?

[Captainhemo]

The throat or wave guide was extremely difficult to do even with the help of master wood workers.  Many trial and errors.  A CNC machine most likely could not do it without some hands on work in the end.  Even with jigs and help, there is some fine tuning that has to be done to get the end result.  My guess is that the 90 percent DIY  (or more) would cut it wrong and end up with a sub par result.

These are looking like a great  speaker guys. From everything posted, there are obviously lots of options  for  bass  both sealed and open baffle. 
Biggest issue I see is this wave guide and  the cost associated with  producing a baffle  with it.  Being so diffuicult to  machine, it sounds like it will be slow going   and time consuming I think coming up with somethng that can be included inthe kit ( like  someone else mentined an insert or faceplate) would be important.

Are you guys going to be doing a prototype of the  full LS  version soon ? Anxious to  read about  results  and see pics of  that vesion

-jay

[Danny Richie]

A CNC'ed flat pack will be no big deal and not cost very much either. So no worries there.

[persisting1]

The wing did not pass the WAF test 

I have some hard work ahead of me 

[ebag4]

Thinking this through I am seeing the issue you are having with merging the baffle with a bass solution.  It appears the long side is at an angle (100 degrees?), that in itself makes it difficult to locate on top of a square box, it may have to be built similar to what you did on the initial OB7 (frame with speaker cloth over it for the non solid side) only this time the overall shape would be a "V" from the top view.  I don't recall seeing it yet, what is the actual depth of the long side?  Are both the long side and the short side at an angle?  What is the angle?

Thanks,
Ed

[Tyson]

If someone made the waveguide available for the Neo3, I would definitely buy it.  I've got a pair of Neo3's I'm using on my next speaker build and I'd love to have a waveguide for them.

[AKLegal]

I am interested in these provided the various design issues are worked out.  I have a pair of  H-frame dual 8 inch servo subs that right now sit under some V-2 drivers that I can re-purpose.  But I also have a Super V kit that just started to build but I have not bought 12 inch servos from Danny yet.  So I'm definitely on the fence.

[Danny Richie]

Thinking this through I am seeing the issue you are having with merging the baffle with a bass solution.  It appears the long side is at an angle (100 degrees?), that in itself makes it difficult to locate on top of a square box, it may have to be built similar to what you did on the initial OB7 (frame with speaker cloth over it for the non solid side) only this time the overall shape would be a "V" from the top view.  I don't recall seeing it yet, what is the actual depth of the long side?  Are both the long side and the short side at an angle?  What is the angle?

Thanks,
Ed

The side wing with front baffle is just 12.25" long. So about the depth of an average mini-monitor. The short wing is just 2" deep counting the front baffle. Both are at a 100 degree angle from the front baffle.

[corndog71]

I just had a thought:  What about 3D printing the baffles?  Might be more expensive.  Might not be. 

Just thinking outside the MDF box.