[Phil A]

I guess as long as you turn on one amp manually you can get the rest to power on?

[Phil A]

I guess it also depends on your electrical circuits too.  I had a problem with a 6BSST when turned on that would trip about half the time a dedicated 15 amp circuit (arc fault breaker didn't like it).  It had no problem when I ran an extension cord into an outlet on a 20 amp circuit.  So I decided to get rid of it as I have an integrated AV system with a Torus 20 amp power conditioner on its own circuit.  I have one big amp plugged in there that I manually turn on and I got a little Wyred4Sound monoblock for the center channel and the rest of the channels are powered via the receiver.

[Rod_S]

I guess as long as you turn on one amp manually you can get the rest to power on?

Yeah I may have to resort to that. For example have the power trigger turn on the center channel 7, then keep my two 28's as they are with just a bit more delay between them. Then after those are on I could set one of the surround 7's to manual power on and have the other surround triggered from that one.

This is all speculation at this point just going by the behaviour of the 28's that I would have an issue. Perhaps there is something in the 28 circuitry that causes this behaviour that doesn't exist in the other amps and there would actually be no issues at all. The 28's are the only ones after all that have the breaker. Before I had my 28's I had the 6 plus two 4's and powering them on was never an issue. I'm not sure if the 28's start up circuitry draws in much more power than the others.

I guess another option would be, providing the 7's don't present an issue if they all came on at the same time via triggers between them all is that I could add an even longer delay for the 1st 28 (and adjust the 2nd accordingly), long enough to ensure the 7's would all be on and settled in.

[Wim J]

Thanks, I see mention of APC units there as well as the Furman. These would technically do the job but I would prefer to keep my gear plugged inot my big Furman's to ensure there is a lots of juice available for the amps when needed. Technically all I really need is a unit that can accept just the 12v trigger cables and apply delays. I suspect no such unit exists.

I use a Siemens Logo! to control all trigger inputs and outputs. You can program a lot of functionality in this mini PLC. It is easy to program.
It has 8 inputs and 4 outputs. Extra modules can be added to get more in/outs.

[Rod_S]

Heck yeah, now that's the type of unit I was wondering actually existed.

Thanks very much 

I may very well get one of these in the future.

[Phil A]

Great find - I knew one had to exist.

[BrystonFan]

 
Holy Relay!

[BrystPlug]

The gauge of the wire doesn't matter as long as it's small enough (22-18 gauge I believe).

If you're feeling lazy or in a hurry, you can buy a mono 3.5mm cable with at least one male end. Cut one side off and strip the wire. That'll give you one side with a 3.5mm plug and the other as bare wire.

Don't forget to set the 12 volt switch in the back from "local" to "external".

That's probably what I will do ahah   

But wow, really hard to find mono cable those days :\

I took a look on the small module I have behind the 28b and well, there's no + nor -, only  4 inserts...   Is there an Input and Output for daisy chain?

Thanks all for feedback!!

[BrystPlug]

I just ordered 2  3ft 1/8 mono male to male....   I'll be stripping 1 side, but how do I know which wire to connect to the X insert on the trigger module?

Thank you

[Bill310]

I just ordered 2  3ft 1/8 mono male to male

Where did you order it from please?

[BrystPlug]

Ebay

[Grit]

Yes, the connector block on the back is for daisy-chaining.

Many devices will allow the polarity to switch, meaning it doesn't matter which wire you put where. I don't know off-hand how Bryston is, but if you check the manual, it should state.

If you want to be precise (as I prefer), the source component should specify if the tip or the sleeve is positive or negative. Then, match that to Bryston's specification.

Usually, the sleeve is the ground and the tip is the signal or positive. A simple electrical meter can tell you which is which when you strip the wire. Odds are the tip wire will be independently insulated where the ground/sleeve will be bare.

- Garrett

[James Tanner]

HI Folks,

Polarity on the wire does not matter with Bryston triggers.

james

[Bill310]

Ebay

Thanks  any chance of sharing the link?

[BrystonFan]

Just use any bulk wire you have lying around, or all that cheap cable that comes with the various components/cable boxes/etc. it's only for trigger!

[Bill310]

Ebay

Thanks for the link 


Here's the item number  111620401875

item number works for both Canada and US Ebay, other as well I suspect.


http://www.ebay.ca/itm/111620401875?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D111620401875%26_rdc%3D1

[Phil A]

There are lots of cheap sources for those cables - e.g. - http://www.mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=5537

[Phil A]

Here's another - http://www.cnaweb.com/6-ft-3-5mm-mono-patch-cable.aspx