FELIX questions for my setup

JoshK · « **Reply #40 on:** 30 Mar 2009, 02:53 pm »

Quote from: mjosef on 27 Mar 2009, 09:00 pm

I don't use any fuse on any of my Felix, those built for my own use. Only if I build it for someone else.
With the RS box it is easy to drill a hole for a fuse-holder.

Yes you do, you always you a fuse, don't you?

mjosef · « **Reply #41 on:** 31 Mar 2009, 04:29 am »

Yeah, actually I do, got fuses on all my components...I sometimes even under-fuse (reduce the amp-rating) for added safety.

anthony a. · « **Reply #42 on:** 1 Apr 2009, 02:09 pm »

hey im ready to start soldering but its been a very long time since i took electronics class.

just want to make sure that the coils and caps are NOT polarized and can be placed in any orientation on the pcb (as long as it fits)

also, i remeber someone mentioning in another thread that the lettering of the caps should all face the same direction. is that really so or can i have them facing each other? sorry for the dumb questions, i just don't want to have to re-solder. thanks.

Occam · « **Reply #43 on:** 1 Apr 2009, 02:50 pm »

Anthony,

My recommendation to align all the caps consistently was based on personal experience from listening sessions with Tianguis (Larry) and myself, a few years ago. It was hardly a controlled experiment, and my recommendation should be taken as ancectdotal, at best. The effect seemed to be a more 'cohesive' presentation, but I wouldn't dispute the possibility of a purely placebo cause.

Then again, while it might not help, it shouldn't hurt.....

Regards,
Paul

JoshK · « **Reply #44 on:** 1 Apr 2009, 04:13 pm »

This is an interesting question, which I find strange but fascinating at the same time. I've read a tiny bit about this issue (from a pratical perspective, not theory) recently. Apparently, assuming we are using unbalanced domestic mains, orienting the outer shield of the cap to neutral can has some beneficial effects. It supposedly minimizes hum pickup by reducing some of the parasitic effects.

Now the problem is trying to determine which end is connected to the outer shield of the cap. Some caps like Auricap mark this for you by making the leads black and red (I think the black is the outer shield and red goes to "hot"). Best to confirm from someone in the know, which excludes me.

kyrill · « **Reply #45 on:** 1 Apr 2009, 05:33 pm »

black is shield

anthony a. · « **Reply #46 on:** 1 Apr 2009, 07:45 pm »

Quote from: JoshK on 1 Apr 2009, 04:13 pm

Now the problem is trying to determine which end is connected to the outer shield of the cap. Some caps like Auricap mark this for you by making the leads black and red (I think the black is the outer shield and red goes to "hot").

agreed, some mark + and - but these vishays have no such marks. so basically am i safe to connect the caps all one way, with the lettering on each cap facing to the right? and coils (both coilcraft and miller) also can be installed either way on the board?

kyrill · « **Reply #47 on:** 1 Apr 2009, 08:35 pm »

Anth

i really think it does not matter practically in the case of the Vishays

anthony a. · « **Reply #48 on:** 2 Apr 2009, 06:20 pm »

thanks kyrill. i took occams advice and wired them all the same way (guess it can't hurt right), and am now complete soldering the parts on the pcb's. only thing left to do now is wire up the iec's and off i go. i just wanted to make sure that i can wire the iec on either side of the pcb board (both sides have a live and neutral). am i correct that this circuit is non-directional and it will filter in and out in either direction?

and, what should i do in terms of the ground? this is for my amps plugged directly in the wall. i don't want to defeat the ground just to have the filter. can anyone chime in?

yammy1688 · « **Reply #49 on:** 2 Apr 2009, 07:03 pm »

You connect the ground wire directly to the ground terminals on the wall receptacles.

kyrill · « **Reply #50 on:** 2 Apr 2009, 07:06 pm »

Quote from: anthony a. on 2 Apr 2009, 06:20 pm

thanks kyrill. i took occams advice and wired them all the same way (guess it can't hurt right), and am now complete soldering the parts on the pcb's. only thing left to do now is wire up the iec's and off i go. i just wanted to make sure that i can wire the iec on either side of the pcb board (both sides have a live and neutral). am i correct that this circuit is non-directional and it will filter in and out in either direction? YES

and, what should i do in terms of the ground? this is for my amps plugged directly in the wall. i don't want to defeat the ground just to have the filter. can anyone chime in? ground wire is parallel to the the pcb, + yammies advice

anthony a. · « **Reply #51 on:** 2 Apr 2009, 07:16 pm »

okay, here is a picture of the completed board. im not using receptacles, so i assume i should just add a jumper wire from the female iec to male iec as shown here, correct?

TomW16 · « **Reply #52 on:** 2 Apr 2009, 07:53 pm »

I noticed in your picture that the white wire is in the H (hot) hole and the black wire is in the N (neutral) hole. Generally the black wire is hot and the white wire is neutral (at least in the US & Canada for 110V service; I can't comment on other countries). It won't make any difference to the Felix function as others have stated.

I like the pigtail approach to the board, which will aid in easy removal and service if necessary.

Tom

anthony a. · « **Reply #53 on:** 2 Apr 2009, 07:56 pm »

Quote from: TomW16 on 2 Apr 2009, 07:53 pm

I noticed in your picture that the white wire is in the H (hot) hole and the black wire is in the N (neutral) hole. Generally the black wire is hot and the white wire is neutral (at least in the US & Canada for 110V service; I can't comment on other countries). It won't make any difference to the Felix function as others have stated.

you are right tom. since i am using the 9.3a miller coil this is actually a "prototype" run of the amp felix and i will be changing wires and bigger coil in my comparisons. i chose black as the neutral and will replace the white with a red cable which will eventually be hot.

so assuming everything is wired correctly, how can i test this circuit without plugging it into the wall and find out somethings fried. is there any way using a multimeter (just want to make sure i didn't fry any of the caps when soldering). sorry for the noob question, it has been years since i took electronics class and my multimeter is full of dust. thanks.

anthony a. · « **Reply #54 on:** 4 Apr 2009, 10:04 pm »

anyone?

JoshK · « **Reply #55 on:** 4 Apr 2009, 10:05 pm »

The best way would be to use a variac and test it at a lowered voltage and then bring the voltage up once its been sanity check. Use your DMM to measure the voltages and note polarity.

poseidonsvoice · « **Reply #56 on:** 5 Apr 2009, 02:56 pm »

Quote from: JoshK on 4 Apr 2009, 10:05 pm

The best way would be to use a variac and test it at a lowered voltage and then bring the voltage up once its been sanity check. Use your DMM to measure the voltages and note polarity.

I agree wholeheartedly with Josh. A variac is an indispensible tool for the DIY'er. You can purchase them on Ebay or buy them fully built or build your own using variable transformers sold by Staco Energy Corp in Dayton Ohio. For the DIY version, you'll need to stick it in a case, AC socket, etc...mine is in a $5 Radioshack case and is great. Try to get one that can take at least a 5A load (on the primary side) which is useful for most projects.

Fully built ones and DIY versions are available through Staco here: http://www.stacoenergy.com/variable_transformers.htm
The DIY versions are labeled as 'Panel Mount' types. Mine is the '500' Series that you see listed.

On second thought, looking at the prices for the fully built Staco units I would DIY or just shop on E-bay! I was lucky and got my 500 Series unit for free! But at least this gives you an idea.

Best,
Anand.

anthony a. · « **Reply #57 on:** 7 Apr 2009, 01:34 pm »

thanks anand and josh for the tips. i am far from being an electronic diyer. i attempted this project because it seemed very straight forward and all it required was the ability to solder. unfortunately, i don't have a variac so it will be hard for me to test the felixes. lets say when i was soldering that i applied too much heat to a cap and fried it. what is the worst that can happen if i plug in the felix to one of my components with a damaged part in the chain? i mean since this is really only a filter, will the current just pass through it and not damage anything or can it fry my component such as a tube amp?

JoshK · « **Reply #58 on:** 7 Apr 2009, 01:46 pm »

Make sure you have fuses in your Felix. If you have fuses, then the way to test it without a Variac is to plug it in without any component attached and fuses that are a tiny bit smaller than normal. If the fuses don't blow, you can measure the voltage on the load side, it they are what you expect ~120vac, then plug it into the component (still with the small fuses). If the fuses still don't blow and everything seems good, you can replace the small fuses with normal sized fuses.

It is normal practice to put smaller fuses in when testing gear so it blows quickly if there is a fault condition. For example, if the normal fuse is 2 amp slow blow, make it 1.5 amp fast blow when testing. You might blow the fuse with switch on in rush of the component, so some judgement is needed to size it.

P.S. I just realized yours doesn't have fuses.

I wouldn't test this as is. Also, the ground is only partially covered. This is no problem if this were incased with strain reliefs. But as is, the wire could be moved by force and cause a short. This is somewhat dangerous in its current state.

whubbard · « **Reply #59 on:** 9 Apr 2009, 02:20 pm »

I have a bunch of Felixs without fuses.

One went BOOM! It was fun.

-West

p.s. I don't think a fuse would have necessarily helped, as I don't think it was caused by to much current, as nothing was plugged in. Never really figured out what happened.