[ebuzz]

Is it possible to mount a 2nd tonearm to a square-motor, WT Classic TT?  If so, how would one go about doing that?  Anyone tried it?
thanks!

[threadkiller]

Now THAT's a good question ... don't know , haven't ever seen it mentioned- doesn't mean it can't be done.
Are you wanting to add a mono cartridge for that new Beatles mono box?

[gagamut]

i think it's not good,because the WT bearing structure is different

[bdp24]

I don't see why not, there is room for one at the back left corner. And since the arm doesn't need a hole drilled to mount it, it could be done without any mods to the table.

[ebuzz]

Quote:  "Are you wanting to add a mono cartridge for that new Beatles mono box?"

That's exactly what I want to do.  I'm not too keen on swapping out cartridges if I want to hear mono.  Anyone have suggestions on how to actually go about doing it?  Would I have to get another WT arm, or would some other arm do?

[/mp]

how will you mount the arm on the table?

[ebuzz]

That's what I'm trying to figure out!  How to mount the arm to the table and which arm!

[sunnydaze]

I don't know your table specifically, but from the online pics it doesn't look like drilling out the plinth is easily accomplished.  May be impossible.

You can use any arm.  Figure out a way to mount it outside of the table.  The trick is in getting it sufficiently close to achieve correct mounting distance.  Depending on the table,  sometimes the plinth gets in the way.   A longer 10 or 12 inch arm may help in this regard, as it can be placed further from plinth.

Using some DIY, I mounted my second arm this way.  Home Depot materials:  threaded rod, nuts and washers, 1 x 3 maple board.  I just bolted it right onto my existing butcher block top shelf.  Not the most elegant visually, but it does the job.  I've seen guys do it with nicely machined free standing pods / supports made from metal.

Board is easy to drill out for various arms.  Height is easily adjusted.  Swing the board laterally to accommodate various mount distances.  For each arm I try, I simply drill out a new board for its mounting pattern.

Pics below will give the general idea.  Good luck.

[/mp]

Sunnydaze,

I am reminded of the time I came home one evening to find my turntable freshly dusted and the cantilever missing. You use a single threaded rod to connect your armboard. This is an axis around which the armboard can rotate. What prevents accidental jarring from doing knocking out your alignment?

[RDavidson]

I like your little turntable ghost, which likely serves 2 main functions and 1 minor added benefit.

1) Scares kids and visitors from touching the rig (and knocking the arm out of alignment)
2) Absorbs unwanted vibrations and unearthly energies
3) Added benefit : Covers the exposed bolt

 

[sunnydaze]

Sunnydaze,

I am reminded of the time I came home one evening to find my turntable freshly dusted and the cantilever missing. You use a single threaded rod to connect your armboard. This is an axis upon which the armboard can rotate. What prevents accidental jarring from doing knocking out your alignment?

Nut above the board, nut below it,  both tightened very hard squeezing the board.  Extremely difficult to move the board, even when trying.  Nuts must be loosened to do so.   An accidental brush won't do it.   A full body blow from staggering 300 lb drunk probably will.       

Besides, it's located where you'd need to be almost behind the rack to knock into it.

Of course, the mount distance will get outta whack if either the table or the DIY board moves.  For a quick eyeball check,  I have hung a fine nylon string from each, and at the end I attached a small round lead shot.  Actually, it's a fishing weight.  I let the weight hover just over the surface, onto which I apply a small white stick-on reinforcement label --  the things you use to repair / reinforce the holes on loose leaf paper.  This effectively creates a bullseye.  If the shot is not hovering over both centers, something has moved, and you just reposition things to obtain the bulleyes. Very easy to see with a quick glance.

(you could also mark the bullseye with a pen or sharpie.  But I like using the reinforcement labels as they leave no permanent marks and can easily be removed and / or repositioned as needed)

[ebuzz]

I don't know your table specifically, but from the online pics it doesn't look like drilling out the plinth is easily accomplished.  May be impossible.

Your DIY setup looks fairly straight forward, might be worth a try for me if drilling my plinth is, in fact, impossible.
That's the big question, however, someone must know if the Classic plinth can be drilled!

[sunnydaze]

Not just a matter of drilling it.   You also need good clearance for the arm pillar,  and outlet of arm cable.   Who knows what's  going on inside and under the plinth.   Would be like drilling the streets  without knowing where the gas and water lines are. 

[ebuzz]

Not just a matter of drilling it.   You also need good clearance for the arm pillar,  and outlet of arm cable.   Who knows what's  going on inside and under the plinth.   Would be like drilling the streets  without knowing where the gas and water lines are.

I certainly wouldn't want to ruin the entire table, but what could be inside that's of such consequence?  Someone must have either tried it or knows what's in the middle.  It's not like there are wires, or steel plates or fluid in there.
 

[/mp]

I certainly wouldn't want to ruin the entire table....It's not like there are wires, or steel plates or fluid in there.

concur +1

[sunnydaze]

Correct.  I guess I was thinking of my Townshend Rock 3, where there's lots going on inside the plinth.