TPA3110 and TPS3116 amps

Poultrygeist · « **Reply #1220 on:** 31 Oct 2014, 08:43 am »

Since you mentioned the Yung plate amp I thought that's what you were using.

lacro · « **Reply #1221 on:** 1 Nov 2014, 05:34 pm »

I would like to make a passive input selector to use with my YJ 3-tube preamp/ TPA amps, or with my TPA power amps alone.
I know there are commercial units already available, but I want to build my own.
These two boards look like they would work good, and be easy to wire up:

http://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/select4.html

http://glass-ware.stores.yahoo.net/inseswandpcb.html

I have a few questions:
The first one looks like it ties all the grounds together, and switches just the + The second one keeps the grounds separate? Which type is most desirable for my use. One more question: Should this be wired with shielded cable between the board and RCA's ?

Thanks!
Lacro

dboy · « **Reply #1222 on:** 1 Nov 2014, 11:15 pm »

I have always wired up amps the first way with gnds connected. I tend to try to keep signal path (and return) short so I connect the gnds at the RCA's rather than at the switch and go straight to the board. Also I figure the first way avoids any unnecessary contact noise/resistance. But shielding or twisting might be a good idea as I think someone said the tpa kicks out some rfi. And keeping the gnds seperate might also be desirable . I'm interested in what others think about this.

dboy · « **Reply #1223 on:** 1 Nov 2014, 11:19 pm »

Ooops double post.

lacro · « **Reply #1224 on:** 3 Nov 2014, 04:53 pm »

Quote from: dboy on 1 Nov 2014, 11:15 pm

I have always wired up amps the first way with gnds connected. I tend to try to keep signal path (and return) short so I connect the gnds at the RCA's rather than at the switch and go straight to the board. Also I figure the first way avoids any unnecessary contact noise/resistance. But shielding or twisting might be a good idea as I think someone said the tpa kicks out some rfi. And keeping the gnds seperate might also be desirable . I'm interested in what others think about this.

Thanks dboy, Must be no-one else has an opinion??

Folsom · « **Reply #1225 on:** 5 Nov 2014, 08:01 pm »

They're both fine.

A shielded cable would only work if it's coaxial, or both ends of the shield are connected to something. Otherwise you're better off with a twisted pair. As far as noise... at this short run I'd just choose something of quality.

Markvdv · « **Reply #1226 on:** 6 Nov 2014, 09:32 am »

Maybe with FMtuner and Television decoder connected too, hum/noise and other ''unexplainable"^ things could more easily occur if gnd isn't switched.

^With multiple room systems you can sometimes get funny things (earth fields?) like automatic audiosystem switch on or off when physically entering the bathroom for example, a little filter on either TV or radio antenna could fix.

Folsom · « **Reply #1227 on:** 18 Nov 2014, 05:02 am »

My 3116 has been bumped by my version of the TDA7297. Even with Muse ES input caps (custom config) vs. Blackgate N's..... The TDA7297 sound like something in another league.

I could tell in 3 seconds.

dboy · « **Reply #1228 on:** 20 Nov 2014, 11:43 pm »

Quote from: Salis Audio on 18 Nov 2014, 05:02 am

My 3116 has been bumped by my version of the TDA7297. Even with Muse ES input caps (custom config) vs. Blackgate N's..... The TDA7297 sound like something in another league.

I could tell in 3 seconds.

Would you be willing to post more info about your TDA7297 amp and maybe some photos? Is it a cheap board from ebay (or similar) or is it something you have put together yourself?

I know the thread is about TPA3110 & 3116, but since you made the comparison I do not think anyone would object to a little more info.

magnet · « **Reply #1229 on:** 21 Nov 2014, 08:38 am »

Quote from: dboy on 20 Nov 2014, 11:43 pm

.... I know the thread is about TPA3110 & 3116, but since you made the comparison I do not think anyone would object to a little more info.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=121423.0

dboy · « **Reply #1230 on:** 21 Nov 2014, 02:40 pm »

Thanks Magnet, I searched that thread out after posting but Salis' last post there was in February so I am guessing he has improved on what is there. Especially since that thread seems to have died just when this one was becoming really active (suggesting TPA3116 et al. were more interesting at that time).

Those TDA7297 amps sure do have a low component count to get them up and running.

Edit: Oh OK discussion of TDA7297 moved to 'Build Guide' thread:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=122152.0

Folsom · « **Reply #1231 on:** 21 Nov 2014, 04:48 pm »

The one I'm using now is custom PCB, different parts.

Thomas0322 · « **Reply #1232 on:** 4 Dec 2014, 08:15 pm »

I've wired up the original red board with the volume control and the blue board that comes without a volume control. I set up a blue board with an Oppo 105 and Mark Audio 7.3s in a T-Line. I used the volume control on the Oppo. In my first pass, I used the input wiring harness that was supplied with the amp. I was a bit disappointed. I then changed out the input wiring harness for some silver wire soldered directly to the pins. The same make of RCA plugs terminated both the harness and the silver wire. The silver wire, to my ear, sounds much better.

I use a 4 9s silver wire that I found on eBay. It has a Teflon dielectric. It makes a good interconnect. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-Silver-9999-Stranded-Litz-Wire-29AWG-Teflon-Audio-Cable-Tonearm-Rewire-DIY-/111053284574?pt=US_Record_Player_Turntable_Parts&hash=item19db4aa4de

KR500 · « **Reply #1233 on:** 11 Dec 2014, 09:30 pm »

Has anyone used the smaller of the 2 Sure amp cases that they sell on that auction place or at Parts Express ?
I'm going to order the Sure TPA 3110 board and want to put mount it in a metal box and since that one by Sure is pre-drilled I'm interested in it .
But.... it seems to be a closed aluminum tube with bolt on front and back and I'm wondering how that is going to work during assembly if you're trying to keep the leads as short as possible ?
I can drill... so if I can find a suitable smallish box that has a remove-able top that is plan B
Just wonder if anyone has wrestled with the Sure box though?
The Sure bay store shows a picture of a PCB board that slides in the grooves of the case, so for a amp board you populate yourself, it probably is the right choice.

lacro · « **Reply #1234 on:** 12 Dec 2014, 06:54 pm »

Quote from: KR500 on 11 Dec 2014, 09:30 pm

Has anyone used the smaller of the 2 Sure amp cases that they sell on that auction place or at Parts Express ?
I'm going to order the Sure TPA 3110 board and want to put mount it in a metal box and since that one by Sure is pre-drilled I'm interested in it .
But.... it seems to be a closed aluminum tube with bolt on front and back and I'm wondering how that is going to work during assembly if you're trying to keep the leads as short as possible ?
I can drill... so if I can find a suitable smallish box that has a remove-able top that is plan B
Just wonder if anyone has wrestled with the Sure box though
The Sure bay store shows a picture of a PCB board that slides in the grooves of the case so for a amp board you populate yourself it probably is the right choice.

If your referring to the NEW 3110 2X15W Sure board, -NO- it won't fit the smaller Sure box PE is selling. However, it will fit the 3110 2x8 W board easily. There is some re-working of the box required for input power jack, and on/off switch.

This box on E-bay will fit the NEW Sure 3110 2x15W amp board:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/B0905-Full-Aluminum-Enclosure-mini-amplifier-case-Preamp-box-PSU-chassis-/221611997159?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33991ab7e7

Here's the Sure box from PE with a YJ Blue/Black board that I listening to right now:

matt_garman · « **Reply #1235 on:** 12 Dec 2014, 09:24 pm »

I have the larger pre-drilled Sure chassis. It's nice, but you are correct, it is just a tube, which makes board mounting somewhat inconvenient. Every chassis/box I've purchased since is a split-design. So much easier to work with.

Quote from: lacro on 12 Dec 2014, 06:54 pm

This box on E-bay will fit the NEW Sure 3110 2x15W amp board:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/B0905-Full-Aluminum-Enclosure-mini-amplifier-case-Preamp-box-PSU-chassis-/221611997159?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33991ab7e7

This is a nice case, and in fact I just completed a build with it using the new Sure 3110 board. Take a look at post #5969 from December 1 on the huge DIYAudio tpa3116 thread. I posted a couple pictures. Personally, I think that box is the perfect size for the new Sure 3110 board (same size as the Sure 3116 by the way): small enough to be, well, small, but big enough to be easy to work with.

Note also that lacro's link above is but one seller of this "B-0905" chassis. On ebay, I see only silver-faced ones, but I emailed the seller in advance to arrange for a black face.

KR500 · « **Reply #1236 on:** 13 Dec 2014, 01:23 am »

Thanks Matt and Lacro , you guys rock
This will be my first amp diy..... so insider tips you provide are helpful
I didn't know Sure has a new 3110 board !
I was just going to order it from PE so thanks for noting this info, Maybe they aren't carrying it yet, I'll check the Sure store at that auction place
Is the new one for 4 ohm speakers ?
A redesign?

KR500 · « **Reply #1237 on:** 13 Dec 2014, 01:54 pm »

Just ordered the linked case and plan on ordering the new Sure 3110 15 watt X 2 board.
I'll reference the links for the potentiometer referenced earlier here and also an LED.
I planned on buying the banana speaker binding posts from PE but wanted to see which ones you guys would recommend ?
The rear plate is somewhat limited in space and I want to make sure I have enough distance between connections so there is no opportunity for a short. So maybe still quality ones but less profile maybe?
RCA jacks are all about the same size and I think I have a pair from PE in the parts bin already . I know I don't want to use the cheap connectors or pot. That's what the Lepai was.

lacro · « **Reply #1238 on:** 13 Dec 2014, 03:37 pm »

Quote from: KR500 on 13 Dec 2014, 01:54 pm

Just ordered the linked case and plan on ordering the new Sure 3110 15 watt X 2 board.
I'll reference the links for the potentiometer referenced earlier here and also an LED.
I planned on buying the banana speaker binding posts from PE but wanted to see which ones you guys would recommend ?
The rear plate is somewhat limited in space and I want to make sure I have enough distance between connections so there is no opportunity for a short. So maybe still quality ones but less profile maybe?
RCA jacks are all about the same size and I think I have a pair from PE in the parts bin already . I know I don't want to use the cheap connectors or pot. That's what the Lepai was.

If you want small ones, I have had good experience with these binding posts, but I got them from a different seller. I even bought them a second time. They are pretty good quality, and very small which makes them ideal for small boxes. They are drilled straight through, allowing banana plugs to seat full depth.

I ordered my Sure amp board direct from Sure's web site, got it in less than 2 weeks. PE doesn't carry the new Sure TPA 3110/3116 boards.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XD-3-10X-Copper-Binding-Post-Banana-Plug-for-Speaker-Amplifier-Terminal-4mm-Jack-/111236937105?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e63cf591

KR500 · « **Reply #1239 on:** 13 Dec 2014, 06:05 pm »

Thanks for posting and the link , 'preciate it ,
I looked for those same jacks , and think I found them but from a seller with 100% positive feedback
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141174639086
The linked seller from the previous post is moving closer to 200 negative feedback ratings this year