[charmerci]

I'll also have to say don't do the road bike. Also, if the bike you have has those wide knobbies, replace them with slicks if it's strictly for road riding or tires with reverse treads if you're doing those packed dirt bike trails.

Those wide knobbies take a lot of energy to ride compared to slicks.

Oh yeah, I wouldn't worry about having front suspension - you can make it pretty stiff with the adjustments and it will take some of the shock off of your hands - though for absolute proper riding technique you're not supposed to put your weight on them when riding.

[undertow]

forgot to mention tires myself... Actually the 8.6 I talked about has a type of "Hybrid" tire on it and is fairly slick, but not totally. It has less resistance than Mountain bike tires, which you definitely don't want. Again I would not get a 26" rim either the 700 c size is much nicer, and faster in my opinion.

[jschwenker]

So like it or not, here's the ride that typifies the 3 different bikes I've put about 3500 miles per year in on - for more than a quarter of a century.  No doubt some folks that scoff at riding such a rig ride a lot more than I do!  (for most commutes I'd go without the trailer of recyclables - that does improve efficiency measurably - nyuk, nyuk)

If your life is set up to where you need to get where you're going FAST, then maybe you need to go for more efficiency than comfort.  If you'd like to be comfortable enough to feel like doing it ALL the time then you might need to think about rides that may get you there 10 or 20 pct slower.

Good luck!
John

[Folsom]

*Shocks are stupid, you'll be pushing them up and down the entire time and it'll be like adding another 2-3 miles to your ride, but 2-3 miles of annoying the entire way - I often think of commuting or having to ride a very long distance on a bike with big squishy shocks as some sorta low level penance of hell.

*Straight up and down is a great way to compact your spine so that you have back problems. A good saddle, correct frame size, and proper handle bar distance will leave you very comfortable. Recumbent are good options if your commute is entirely flat, but not at that price range.

*Comfort will have a lot to do with the material of the bicycle. Either you need a good carbon front fork or a steel frame and fork that's made well.

*Puncture resistant tires are ok if you don't mind an awful, somewhat dangerous ride at high speeds. Mr. Tuffy is more effective in my experience; in the way that I've found high end "tough" tires to simply just cost a lot.

*Even if you commute in your work clothes consider that saddles often eat pants, but a change of clothes can be nice. If you're very andric and don't sweat you won't care as much. Some people prefer clipless pedals because they ride really is better, but I can tell you they aren't all made equally. There's only two worth considering, and everything else is recommended by people that haven't used theirs hard enough to know better.

*Gears are not very important, in fact you might be more than fine with a single speed. I do fixed for many reasons. (including my wheels not wearing out from braking, which is a constant replace item for bicycle couriers that ride non-fixed) Frankly low gears usually just means you go up a hill slower than you need to, thinking it'll somehow be easier. People gear down until they can walk up a hill faster, all the time. 

*This is the best lock you will want to have, everything else is annoy and useless for real protection. SERIOUSLY, anything bigger tends to be annoying and theft friendly, anything cheaper/different design doesn't do much. The only better protection is their New York stuff that weighs too much for anywhere but New York. If you're in the opposite of bike theft type community use whatever you want.

*Spending more now means spending less later. Hand built wheels can last a VERY long time. Steel frames can last a lifetime if treated well with proper prep.

*Large heavily padded saddles will BRING THE PAIN OF HADES UPON YOUR ARSE, don't do it.

*Different hand positions can be very nice, I agree with JEaton, and will comment that you can get time trial bars that do the same thing without the low position (you won't use it much) that also have a wide flat spot for the middle position.

*Honeslty, I couldn't tell you how to get a brand new bike for $1000 that'll handle that much of a commute for years on end. Used? Yes, yes that would work because you could provide a quality drive train, and the right other pieces. For example you can have a headset last 5+ years or a month. They don't sell the good ones on cheap bikes.

*How tall are you, how much do you weight? How far apart are your sit bones? (it's awkward, but if you lay on your back and try to put your feet over your shoulder, reach through your legs, you can actually measure them. This is the first step to not finding out you have the WRONG saddle. I have recommendations for good ones in all shapes and sizes.

*What weather are you in? That will have a lot to do with recommendations.

*I'm available to help you out, but please answer the questions first so we aren't all shooting in the dark. Hell, I'd even consider building wheels for you. For extra I'd tie and solder them!

[Doublej]

John - How difficult is it to stop with the trailer?


Why are puncture resistant tires a dangerous ride at high speeds? What is a high speed?

[charmerci]

Let us know when your head starts spinning, vv.

Seems like it'll be sooner than later!   

[Folsom]

John - How difficult is it to stop with the trailer?


Why are puncture resistant tires a dangerous ride at high speeds? What is a high speed?

I've found that they have very poor grip because they aren't supple enough (aka tough). They don't roll well when at angle for the same reason. High speed would be 20mph+ I suppose. It depends, 15mph could be real fast in a tight corner.

Stopping with a trailer is slower. I pulled one with an entire farmers market setup for Empanadas for awhile. It's very manageable however since you never get going too fast. Trailers severely impact quality of the ride because they jostle back and forth a lot. However it's impressive what you can pull, like hundreds of pounds no big deal unless there's a big hill.

[jschwenker]

Stopping with the trailer is definitely something that needs some good forethought, and some extra watchfulness as to where road emergencies might arise.  Other than saying that it is manageable enough.

I've got no experience with tires necessarily sold on mainly their "puncture resistance" and have not heard much about any high speed restrictions.  I use the Mr. Tuffy brand of tire liners mentioned above.  Sorry if it additionally offends some but I generally figure if I'm going much over 20-25 mph it's time to stop pedaling and enjoy the glide.  Even down extended steep hills (w/o trailer!) I try to brake to avoid going much over about 30, given that on most bikes one is starting to seriously "override" the braking capability - compared to any other road users vehicles.  Being unable to stop from higher speeds as fast as they thought they could, has led many bikers to the ER.

Cheers,  John

[Folsom]

For us riders over 200lbs (even when not fat) things are different. That's one reason I asked for weight.

[this_is_vv]

Ty again for all the replies. Humbled with all input .It was hard to quote i will post most of questions asked here....though head is starting to spin in good way. I am going to bike shop tomorrow to talk to some people around

•   So far i am leaning towards hybrid bike.
•   Comfort is important. I do want to use this bike atleast 2-3 days a week to commute or more and dont want ti give up early that it is not Comfortable.
•   Also puncture less tire kinda needed i know days when i have meeting and i need to be in office and i rather not give having a punctured tire as reason.

@Salis
I am 5ft 9. I am 205 pounds (hopefully this can reduce my weight ) . No idea about my sit bones apologize will look around and try to get some measurement.

weather is mostly sunny and if it is cold it is just once a while . I have an option to change cloth in my work so i am all set there. I am sweaty guy.

I am curious how to build wheel and ty again...and i assure you , you are not hitting in dark . Just need guidance for this side


V

[Folsom]

*I wouldn't do a hybrid, you'll spend more time on the bike, and time trumps all. Even the most expensive beautiful and intelligently crafted custom for you bicycle will leave you "saddle sore" at some point. Upright is such a BAD idea. You want weight on the hands, not a lot, but some. The pressure from pressing down on the pedals will also remove some pressure from the saddle. There's a reason you don't sit upright perfectly on a stool when you want to relax... that being said there are some hybridish bikes that are ok, most are not, and the good ones don't really advertise as hybrid. They tend to call themselves commuter bicycles or something.

*The best comfort is found within the best fit saddle. The better the fit, the less padding it will have. I ride a Selle Italia Flite Max. I've broken anything else that fit correctly for my wide sit bones. Brooks did not work for me, but may for you (it's just leather, nothing else). I think the Selle Italia Flite Max is the most superior saddle for anyone without narrow sit bones (most people that like bikes? that or they don't know they're on the wrong saddle). It won't break, the padding is actually minimal, and the prostate relief area is done well. It literally has oversized re-shaped rails. I've broken some EXPENSIVE rails before.

*If you're worried about going to work and not being late bring an extra tube and a cartridge inflator along with THESE SPECIFIC TIRE LEVERS TWO OF THEM. I promise all other tire levers are stupid, especially metal ones. These are the only thing tough enough to do any tire there is out there without snapping or bending. I couldn't tell you why metal ones are such a joke but either they bend or pop the tube.... Also run Mr. Tuffy and a tough tire if you're worried. Pinch flats are a bigger enemy most of the time.

*Go with 700C, they roll much better, and depending on frame you can go with rather large tires all the way up to MTB size.

*I don't know how to compare hilliness of terrain, for recommendations.

[this_is_vv]

*I wouldn't do a hybrid, you'll spend more time on the bike, and time trumps all. Even the most expensive beautiful and intelligently crafted custom for you bicycle will leave you "saddle sore" at some point. Upright is such a BAD idea. You want weight on the hands, not a lot, but some. The pressure from pressing down on the pedals will also remove some pressure from the saddle. There's a reason you don't sit upright perfectly on a stool when you want to relax... that being said there are some hybridish bikes that are ok, most are not, and the good ones don't really advertise as hybrid. They tend to call themselves commuter bicycles or something.

*The best comfort is found within the best fit saddle. The better the fit, the less padding it will have. I ride a Selle Italia Flite Max. I've broken anything else that fit correctly for my wide sit bones. Brooks did not work for me, but may for you (it's just leather, nothing else). I think the Selle Italia Flite Max is the most superior saddle for anyone without narrow sit bones (most people that like bikes? that or they don't know they're on the wrong saddle). It won't break, the padding is actually minimal, and the prostate relief area is done well. It literally has oversized re-shaped rails. I've broken some EXPENSIVE rails before.

*If you're worried about going to work and not being late bring an extra tube and a cartridge inflator along with THESE SPECIFIC TIRE LEVERS TWO OF THEM. I promise all other tire levers are stupid, especially metal ones. These are the only thing tough enough to do any tire there is out there without snapping or bending. I couldn't tell you why metal ones are such a joke but either they bend or pop the tube.... Also run Mr. Tuffy and a tough tire if you're worried. Pinch flats are a bigger enemy most of the time.

*Go with 700C, they roll much better, and depending on frame you can go with rather large tires all the way up to MTB size.

*I don't know how to compare hilliness of terrain, for recommendations.

anything specific you recommend?

V

[Doublej]

This http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=16563846 or this http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/cafe_noir.htm but the second one is above your price range by a bit.

[undertow]

You may be surprised how sore and long a 9 mile commute will be thru the streets one direction regardless of average speed which will likely be about 10 to 12 miles per hour... Could take 45 to 50 minuets on a good day.

[jschwenker]

So to pull it back to audio and keep our masters happy, my turntable
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=82514.msg1306519#msg1306519
came home carefully bungied on top of the baskets in the picture above.  The 47 inch TV (different discussion circle, yes) did require the trailer... 

Yers,  John

[JEaton]

Here are a couple of web sites to get you started. The last one is another forum where you can expect to get some very good advice. Just describe your situation: your fitness level, your biking experience, the distance you'll be commuting and the terrain and surfaces that you'll be encountering on your daily route.

http://www.commutebybike.com/

http://www.bikecommuters.com/

http://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/

[LadyDog]

Told you there would be quite a few arm chair quarterbacks.  Me being part of them.

First of all, take your time.  It will be tough walking into a shop and not walking out with something.  Slow down, test ride, figure out fit dimensions, etc.  Take your time.

There are some questions you'll need to ask yourself.

If not riding in the rain, do you really need/want disc brakes.

If riding just street, do you really need/want suspension.

If riding straight street, do you really need/want something other than a road bike.

Even the vain questions, do you need it to say Trek, Specialized, or Giant.  Does it make it a better bike than say Jamis or Felt, when the they're made in the exact same factory.

The blanket statements that all road bikes are this, and that all hybrid bikes are that, may or may not be your point of view.  Again everyone is their own movie critic.

Trek is no better than Specialized.  Specialized is no better than Giant.  Giant is no better than.........etc.  Each brand may have a better spec'd/priced bike within a certain range, but again better is somewhat relative.  I'd take a lesser equipped bike that fits better, than one that has better parts and/or more bling.

Steel is different than aluminum.  Not necessarily better.  Better for some, and vice versa.  A possible benefit to aluminum would be if you plan on riding in the wet.  Wheels and tire pressure have more to do with bike comfort(along with fit), than whether the frame is steel or aluminum.  Or automatically choosing the widest tire that fits. 

Road bars do have some benefit, as you have three hand positions to rotate from.

Saddles are very personal.  Somewhat trial and error.  Some people need wide saddles, some need narrow.  Some people like cutouts, others do not.  As Salis mentioned, measure your sit bones for a starting point.

Unfortunately the list goes on and on.

[this_is_vv]

First day today i went out to two shops....first shope let me test ride in parking lot

not sure what mdoel was it ...it was cheap muntain bike and somehow it drove nice...for 250$ i liekd it a lot...

then went to another shop...and test drove this for 2 miles


http://www.rei.com/product/832566/novara-big-buzz-bike-2014/?

too much shocks  coming to body....uncomfrtable...

so now i know....i need

some shock absorber ..little bigger tire....disk brakes are nice...

V

[Folsom]

I'd try 38mm tires on the big buzz before shocks. The feedback from the road is something you reduce with road choices.

The stock tires are probably stiff.

But I prefer steel. Not all steel is equal (Pake, Surly, SE, and other cheapo won't flex right). The Novaro you road has no flex, I would not expect a good ride.

Fat tires, room for fenders, mounts for whatever.

http://www.adrenalinebikes.com/store.cfm?do=DetailProduct&productid=160896&gclid=CLPsqZ79qsACFQxp7AodP0cAfA

The All City Nature Boy fits your price and is one of the more impressive affordable bicycles made today.

http://allcitycycles.com/bikes/

[Folsom]

I highly suggest you try renting a MTB and road bike, and riding several miles. You'll probably utterly change what you define as comfort if you do the same ride, and consider the time it takes you.

The more you think of it as a chair, the more you'll pick out something tolerable for mere moments of comfort that can turn into really serious pain later.