Anyone have good plans for a DIY audio rack?

schw06 · « **on:** 28 Dec 2008, 02:10 pm »

I am looking to build my own rack for components and looking for a quality DIY rack. It can be either tall or wide and I'd like to keep it under $400. Thanks!
Dave

Big Red Machine · « **Reply #1 on:** 28 Dec 2008, 02:23 pm »

Think outside the box:

schw06 · « **Reply #2 on:** 28 Dec 2008, 03:00 pm »

I like the concept of the flexi-rack. I have my audio room on a carpeted floor above concrete. What would be the best feet to put on a rack like that?
Dave

chadh · « **Reply #3 on:** 28 Dec 2008, 03:53 pm »

Check out the following link:

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?htech&1001889380&openflup&11&4#11

Ken Lyon of Neuance provided the recipe above as a cheap alternative based on the same principles as his high-end shelves. I use the "ikea-lyte" rack, but have compared it to nothing so cannot attest to its relative merits. However, it certainly is pretty cheap.

Here's an Audio Asylum discussion about rack: http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/tweaks/messages/119770.html

Chad

ctviggen · « **Reply #4 on:** 28 Dec 2008, 04:57 pm »

Quote from: Big Red Machine on 28 Dec 2008, 02:23 pm

Think outside the box:

Did you raise your HT3s for a reason?

markC · « **Reply #5 on:** 28 Dec 2008, 05:54 pm »

Quote from: Marbles on 28 Dec 2008, 03:05 pm

I'd just leave the rods as the feet, or if you like spikes, just grind the bottoms of the rod into points.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=12&pos=11

Thats exactly what I did. This is an old pic. I've since added a 2" thick maple laminated shelf on top.

ltr317 · « **Reply #6 on:** 28 Dec 2008, 06:28 pm »

I used 80/20 aluminum. Shelves are infinitely adjustable.

timind · « **Reply #7 on:** 28 Dec 2008, 06:35 pm »

The flexi rack is a good option if you don't need a lot of shelves. I built mine with Pennsylvania purple slate.

I was going for a rustic look.

It started as a 36 inch high rack with four shelves but as my system keeps getting less complex I reduced the size of the rack. It seems extremely rigid and the slate is a fairly inert stone.
After building this one I looked into granite for a more refined looking rack. The cost for three stones with holes drilled was prohibitive, don't remember exactly but my guess is $150 each. Good luck whichever way you go.

MaxCast · « **Reply #8 on:** 28 Dec 2008, 09:43 pm »

My goal is a flexi rack. I like the idea of adjustable shelves and no supports in the middle for a center channel. Not that I would every have a center but you never know. It will be 8' wide and 24-30" tall, low profile. Three shelves and plenty of room for monos, power conditioners, xo's, dvd's, dac's and a Samsung LED if I break down and add video. I'm figuring 2" maple for the top shelves and a 3" for the bottom. Total cost should be under a grand. And since I don't want to get shot by my wife, it will be this summer before it is created.

BobM · « **Reply #9 on:** 28 Dec 2008, 10:59 pm »

Here's what I built. IKEA butcher block table, cut to make the legs. MDF boxes filled with 50lbs of sand each. IKEA butcher block cutting boards for the shelves on top of the sand with some basic foam weather stripping around the edges so the sand isn't exposed. Some Spikes on the bottom and bolts from Home Dopey.

Enjoy,
Bob

schw06 · « **Reply #10 on:** 29 Dec 2008, 03:50 am »

I've decided to build a flexi-rack. Living in Atlanta, I'll get the brass rods and bolts from Mcamaster-Carr locally. For shelf material, is there a consensus on best...Maple, marble, granite, pine?????

MaxCast · « **Reply #11 on:** 29 Dec 2008, 01:16 pm »

I'd go with maple. Have you priced the brass rods, nuts and washers?

JLM · « **Reply #12 on:** 29 Dec 2008, 01:29 pm »

If you keep the spl's "reasonable" the rack will not affect the sound. Just buy something that fits the equipment and looks good. Footfalls and turntables on soft wooden floors is another matter, in that case mount the supporting shelf to a solid interior wall (hopefully one that doesn't have a door on it).

Since I'm a well seasoned old fart (and reasonable) I use a solid looking $30 Ikea nightstand, leaving the wheels off (but keep the posts for the wheels on). It's small, but holds my small monoblocks, pre-amp, and CDP without stacking. I bought two (to have a matching side table and a 2nd adjustable shelf.

The ultimate rack is no rack. Place all components directly on a concrete slab that rests directly on earth in a different room (or inside a bomb shelter) and use spikes. Avoid turntables and tubes (as highly susceptable to air borne vibrations). Dampen panels of the cases of each component.

If your floor is solid and massive (like concrete slab on grade) go with spikes and rigidity. If not, try various spongy pads/feet. Isolation and increased mass are always good. I see no acoustic value to having a rack that could flex horizontally. Most audiophiles choose maple, a hard wood, that can be stained/etc. See Mapleshade for their huge "flexi-racks".

woodsyi · « **Reply #13 on:** 29 Dec 2008, 01:39 pm »

Check this out. Dave (Joules) made his racks shown here. He told me that after seeing my Adona rack, he researched and got all the parts from various places and put them together. Nice job and I think it's much cheaper than what Adona charges even though he used some things that he already had.

Ruby Mae · « **Reply #14 on:** 4 Mar 2009, 07:32 pm »

Quote from: Marbles on 28 Dec 2008, 02:26 pm

Here is a good thread.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=32713.0

On page 2, tooblover has a link to an inexpensive butcher block internet sales place. Some threaded rod and these butcher blocks would make a great inexpensive rack.

Toobluvr actually built a really nice rack...check it out. It was a lot of work but he got a great result in the end.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;area=browse;album=1465

toobluvr · « **Reply #15 on:** 4 Mar 2009, 10:02 pm »

Very cool looking racks, woodsyi!!

The extruded aluminum posts look very much like the 80/20 stuff I used.
Great material to work with. Very strong and always square, straight and true.

It took me a while to find all the used butcher block tables, but I did the whole project for about $300.

rajacat · « **Reply #16 on:** 4 Mar 2009, 10:20 pm »

Nice, clean design.

What did you use for feet?

-Roy

toobluvr · « **Reply #17 on:** 4 Mar 2009, 10:26 pm »

Quote from: rajacat on 4 Mar 2009, 10:20 pm

Nice, clean design. What did you use for feet?

-Roy

The 80/20 posts have a center channel in them. I threaded it and just screwed in some heavy hex bolts for feet. This way I can screw them in and out to level things. I glued some heavy felt protector pads to the bolt heads to protect the wooden floors and make it easier to slide the rack across the floor, should I need to.

richidoo · « **Reply #18 on:** 4 Mar 2009, 11:59 pm »

What kinda saw to cut the 80/20 extrusions? They look great toobluver. Like a $1000+ commercial product!

Link to 80/20 for those interested.

toobluvr · « **Reply #19 on:** 5 Mar 2009, 12:25 am »

Quote from: richidoo on 4 Mar 2009, 11:59 pm

What kinda saw to cut the 80/20 extrusions? They look great toobluver. Like a $1000+ commercial product!
Link to 80/20 for those interested.

My brother cut them for me on his band saw. Obviously, precision is important.

If you know the lengths you want, 80/20 will cut them for you. They will also cut any threads that you need. Needless to say, their work will be very precise.