[rak313]

I have started a build of a set of 2 speaker stands which will hold my rear surrounds (eventually a pair of N2Xs).  The goal is for these stands to look like furniture, but also contain a subwoofer that consists of Brian's new HX580 amp and dual 8" servo speakers. 

My inspiration came from this:
 


It seemed like the lower section would make a good subwoofer.  I needed to make it a bit bigger to get a reasonable cu. ft. for the sealed subwoofer.

All that is left to make is the top and the bottom molding. Next comes the glue.  The wood is cherry and 0.8" thick (glued up and planed down from 1" rough cut by a local mill).







I know Danny has warned of placing speakers on a sealed subwoofer. Here is my thinking on it:

1) the speakers are separated by about 20" from the sealed box - hopefully that will help reduce the vibrations that pass to the top.

2) I will use blue-tack (or equivalent) to hold the surround speaker to the top.  This bubble gum like material will firmly hold the speaker and prevent accidental knocking over, but more importantly, it separates the speaker from the top - and will help prevent coupling from the top to the surround speaker.

3) Finally, the speakers on the stands are surround speakers. For 2 channel - they aren't even on.  For movies - well it's just for surround.

 

[persisting1]

I don't see why placing your surrounds on a sub will be a bad idea. Looking good. Keep us updated 

[cody69]

Innovative design... I like it. Cherry is a nice wood to work with and will look great.
Keep us posted on progress and how the twin subs work out for you.

[charmerci]

I don't see why placing your surrounds on a sub will be a bad idea.

Outside of the fact that usually where the surrounds go, is rarely the best place for a sub to sound its best, none.

[persisting1]

Outside of the fact that usually where the surrounds go, is rarely the best place for a sub to sound its best, none.

The wood is cut. He's applied the veneer. Doesn't look like he's changing his mind. It's for HT duties. He will be fine.

[rak313]

The wood is cut. He's applied the veneer. Doesn't look like he's changing his mind. It's for HT duties. He will be fine.

It's not veneer - it solid cherry.

[SetterP]

Very nice woodwork!

Just thinking out loud here, but why don't you use these stands with your front two channels?  Might give you better phase alignment, be well used for two channel (especially with nice punchy 8" sealed design), and still be able to deliver the goods for HT duties.

Thinking along the line of the Blumenstein Audio Dungeness and Orca Centerset combo....

[rak313]

Very nice woodwork!

Just thinking out loud here, but why don't you use these stands with your front two channels?

...

My fronts are LS6s (with a center LS-C).  My original plan was 4 of the dual 8" servo subs, so 2 up front and 2 in the back.  I built a test sub like the prototype Brian showed - as a test - and it is quite nice.

Then we were watching  "Gravity" with lots of LFE, and my wife complained - it's too loud - and you want to put 4 of those things in here?  I tried to explain it was to even out the field - and they each would be at a lower volume.  She just rolled her eyes. 

If I do add 2 up front, they will be the same design Brian has shown, simple box of 10" x 20" x 14".

 

[charmerci]

Just thinking out loud here, but why don't you use these stands with your front two channels?  Might give you better phase alignment, be well used for two channel (especially with nice punchy 8" sealed design), and still be able to deliver the goods for HT duties.

Sub amps have phase adjustment switches/controls.

[Danny Richie]

Actually that stand will work great.

It is a little brick to begin with and the upper structure is supported by the outer frame of the structure. So transmitting any resonances to the upper section is greatly minimized.

What you want to avoid is a large sub with a lightly braced panel being the platform for another speaker. Think of the sub box as a drum. You can set something on the edges or frame without issue. But if you set something on the drum skin itself then it is going for a ride.

This one is an example of what not to do. It is a large flat surface against another large flat surface.

[brj]

While the OP's build looks well under way - and very nice to boot - other builders interested in sealed sub stands could consider mounting the two drivers in the cabinet exactly across from each other, such that their mechanical forces tend to cancel.  I have HX580 based sealed subs "stands" being built this way (slowly) with a ring of 8 oak dowels running from one baffle across to the other.  Of course, this will result in a shorter, wider subwoofer stand, so whether that works with your speakers and design aesthetic is a separate question.  Note that even with the canceled mechanical forces, you'll still want to brace the cabinets well to counteract the panel flex induced by the air pressure changes.

[SetterP]

Actually that stand will work great.

It is a little brick to begin with and the upper structure is supported by the outer frame of the structure. So transmitting any resonances to the upper section is greatly minimized.

What you want to avoid is a large sub with a lightly braced panel being the platform for another speaker. Think of the sub box as a drum. You can set something on the edges or frame without issue. But if you set something on the drum skin itself then it is going for a ride.

This one is an example of what not to do. It is a large flat surface against another large flat surface.

Good info Danny, Thanks!

[rak313]

Its been 10 months since I posted this thread.  I got side tracked, and just returned to this project last month.  This is my 1st speaker project where I am doing the woodworking. (I had a friend build my LS-C).

The 9 month layoff took its toll.  The wood was mitered at 45 deg.  Excessive handling resulted in some of the edges being slightly damaged.  Also, the hand fitted braces only fit well in one orientation (because I used biscuits to hold them in place), yet there were 2 nearly identical braces that could be oriented in lots of positions.  So when assembling and gluing up, I didn't get it right.  The result was gaps that wouldn't close with clamps.





These gaps along with the damaged edges led to me to route out a small 1/4" square on each corner, and fill with a strip of wood.

 



After sanding, they looked pretty good.




Now, after going to all of the trouble of using a 45 deg miter (which was hard), I realized that this was foolish.  For the 2nd stand, I will either just use a butt joint or a 1/2 lap joint.  Each board is made up from 3 pieces of 4" wood glued up by the wood mill.  A butt joint or lap joint will look similar, and so no need for the 45 deg.

Here is the stand prior to the top and bottom molding.



Here is one piece of the bottom molding after installation.



I now have everything glued on except for the top.

The next steps are glue on the top, sand, and finish, then install the no-res, install the 8" woofers and HX580 servo amp. Listen and enjoy!

 

[mresseguie]

I hadn't realized it's been 10 months already. Time flies, but I seem to notice my remaining time is shorter than the last time. It's not fair, I tell you!

Please post more pics as you progress.

Michael

[jeffh]

rak313,
That is a great solution you came up with to fix the corners.  I think it looks good with the added strip in the corner.

Looking good!

[rak313]

rak313,
That is a great solution you came up with to fix the corners.  I think it looks good with the added strip in the corner.

Looking good!

Thanks.  It with all of the effort I had already put into it, it was really hard to put a router to it without knowing if I could pull it off.  It is easy to wobble just a bit, and it's in the wood.

Here are 2 more pics with the molding on and the top ready for gluing. 

[rak313]

Here is a pic of the top being glued on. While waiting for it to dry, I wiped it down with a rag soaked in mineral spirits to get an idea of what it will look like once oiled. I will be using Bush oil. http://bushproducts.com/products/bush-oil

[jparkhur]

?  Do you want to paint the inner edge of the driver hole too?  Black to match the driver?  or you going to stain it too?

[rak313]

Good question.  I am not planning to stain anything.  In the year since I bought the wood, it has darkened alot. Look at the 1/4" square pieces I glued in the corners.  Before sanding, they more or less matched the color of the panels.  But after I sanded them to be flush (I purposely made them slightly larger - so they could be sanded smooth), they are back to fresh wood.  That is a big difference.  So at this point, I'm quite satisfied with the color - without staining.  And over time, it will only get darker.

However, as to the inside of the larger speaker holes -  I plan on just oiling them like the rest of the stand.  I also was thinking of a grill cloth, but I am not sure it I will do that.  I kind of like the looks of the raw speakers.  It depends of what my wife thinks.

 

[rak313]

1st coat bush oil applied