[Adam13]

I'm currently using speaker wire built for me by Stan Warren. Since I can not locate Mr. Warren to build more for me, I was wondering if there were any other outstanding wires that work well with the RM40?

[Charles Calkins]

I just got a pair of GRresearch Trinity Braid's about a week ago. I am totally impressed!!! Lot's of bang for the buck.

                    Cheers
                    Charlie

[zybar]

I'm currently using speaker wire built for me by Stan Warren. Since I can not locate Mr. Warren to build more for me, I was wondering if there were any other outstanding wires that work well with the RM40?

I have had good results with the following:

RSA Poiema!!
TG Audio HSR
Sonoran Desert Plateau
Argent Audio Pursang

George

[Tyson]

Bolder Cables Nitro, with bybee'd jumpers sound very good in my RM40 setup.

[Marbles]

I have used both the Ridge Street Audio (RSA) Poiema!! with jumpers, and the Bolder Nitro with Bybee Jumpers.

Both are VERY good.

The Poiema!! is a bit more expensive, but I like it a bit better.

You really can't go wrong with either.

If I recall, the Stan Warren is a THHN recipe in a quad geometry from Lowes or Home Depot.  You could probably make it yourself VERY inexpensively.

If you do a search here or on Harmonicdiscord.com, I bet you could find lots of discussion on it.

[ekovalsky]

I used double runs of Acoustic Zen Satori on the RM-40's.  It is pretty cheap used and is great bang for the buck.  Very nicely finished also.

[Wayne1]

FWIW, Brian Cheney of VMPS Audio will be using BOLDER Cable Nitro speaker cable and Summit balanced interconnects with Bybees Inside to demo his wares at CES in January.

This will be the third CES Brian has used products built by The BOLDER Cable Company in his demo system. He has managed to win two Best of CES awards in that time.  

[woodsyi]

I am using PS Audio Extreme Plus on the woofers and subwoofers and RS Audio Silver on the ribbons.  I like the sound.  I am in the process of installing Bybee filters on the drivers rather than use cables with Bybees inside.  When you triamp you can't spend a K on each pair of speaker cables.

[Wayne1]

The Bybees will be built into the balanced interconnect for the CES system.

There will be no Bybees in the speaker cables. I'm sorry I did not make that clear in my first post.

BTW, I just placed an order for a good customer to have a pair of BCSE 626Rs built in the new Maple cabinets. They will have all BOLDER Cable wired internally AND have Bybees installed on each driver.

I guess you could call them  2(BC)SE 626Rs

[woodsyi]

Wayne,

What Bybees did you order?  I am guessing  a small silver slipstream for each ribbons and a large one for the woofer.  Am I right or does even one panel of ribbon require a large filter?  I just covered the solder points with heat shrink tape.  Should I do more?

[Wayne1]

The tweeter will use the Silver Slipstream. The mids and woofers will use the Large Purifier.

The Silver Slipstream has a limit of 4.3 amps. I did not wish to possibly limit the dynamics with such a wide range driver. I have sent off the Bybees and wire to Brian today.


Polyolefin heat shrink tubing should work fine to cover the joints.

[Turk]

I have been rotating the following speaker cables for quite awhile on my RM40s and Alpha LS speakers: Bolder Nitro Bybee biwire, Cardas Golden Cross biwire, Soundstrings biwire, and Goertz Python (round) biwire.

The Alphas perform best with the Cardas and the Bolder.  The RM40s clearly seem to like the Bolder the best. The Bolder is about half the price of the Cardas.  Hope this helps.

[brj]

At the risk of side-tracking this thread a bit...

Instead of putting a Bybee on the terminal of each individual driver, would it be significantly less effective to put one Bybee on each element of the crossover?

For example, on one of the 3 way speakers (RM1/RM2/RM30/RM40/etc), could you put one Bybee on the FST, one for all of the mid-range panels, and one for the combined woofers?

Bybees are something people seem to sprinkle throughout the audio chain.   Amps, IC's, speakers, etc.... I'm just wondering where you get the most bang for the buck.

Thanks!

[Wayne1]

brj,

Bybees can be used just about anywhere.

On the multi-driver systems, you can place the Bybees after the crossover and before the drivers.

Jack Bybee suggests using one Bybee in the common negative line right where it enters the cabinet.

That still adds up to at least $425.00 per cabinet in Bybees.

[woodsyi]

Brj,

That is what I am doing.  I am not putting a Bybee on each panel or woofer.  I am putting a Bybee on the positive lead just after the crossover before they are split into each individual drivers.  Having taken one set of RM40 apart (I sent the drivers and crossovers to Brian for a cabinet upgrade) I know this can be done.  This way, I only need 2 small silver slipstreams and 4 large Bybees for the pair of RM40's.  The cost is about the same as a cable with Bybees built in.  Down side is that filters stay with the speakers, but I plan to keep my RM40 for a long time.

[Wayne1]

This is the guideline from Jack Bybee for using his products in speakers:

Loudspeakers

To modify dynamic loudspeakers, the best possible results are obtained by connecting a purifier at both the positive and negative terminals of each driver.

 A less costly -- and less effective, although still worthwhile -- modification is to place a large purifier at the positive and negative inputs to the crossover network, so that all drivers get the benefit.

If access to the crossover is difficult, the large purifiers may be placed between the end of the speaker cable and the positive and negative input terminals. (Be careful to avoid a short between the positive and negative input terminals.)

Note: For all of the above examples, very good improvements can be realized even if the purifiers for the negative side are omitted.

 A good compromise is to put purifiers at each transducer's positive terminal and use a single purifier at the negative crossover input or speaker terminal.

[woodsyi]

Wayne,

There is no way I am putting 14 Bybees on each cabinet.  I am putting just 1 on the POSITIVE lead of each crossover.  I am going naked on the nagative side!  

[rkapadia@ROOP]

Adam,

I'd encourage you to demo Steve Nugent's Empirical Audio Clarity cables.  I don't know if you have a local retailer, but we have a demo pair available for in-home audition that may be purchased for a significant discount if you enjoy the quality of sound.  Please feel free to contact me if interested.  I'd also strongly recommend Zu Cable WAX as well, depending on your anciliary electronics.  I am a retailer for the above two manufacturers, for the sake of full disclosure.

I've also heard very positive feedback from clients using Wayne's Bolder cables; they're also worth consideration.  I have no affiliation with Bolder.

Thanks,

[MGDeWulf]

I've been using the following described wires on the RM40 for several years now.  This wire can be purchased at Lowe's or Home depot.  It has been talked about before on AC.  I have used most of the cables that you mention, and to me none perform as well as these.  Of course, this is my own opinion, but for around $50 total you can prove me wrong - Watch directionality, and break them in by running for a week or two, taking them out for a few days, then put them back in.  It works.

Marty
I hope this comes out right,  If everything is blank below this, it didn't.

"The cable I chose and which performs so well comes in a variety of jacket colors -  I used red and white.  On the outside of the jacket is the following: "E51583 (UL) AWG6 CU TYPE MTW OR THWN-2 OR THHN GASOLINE AND OIL  RESISTANT II OR AWM 600 VOLTS VW1".  It's a 19 strand cable, with the internal wires having at least two different gauges (maybe more).
   "Construction.  For each speaker side you'll need two sections of the above cable.  I used the red jacketed cable for the positive and the white for the return.  With the red (pos), I ran the cable in the direction of the writing on the outside (reads from the amp to the speaker).  On the white return (neg), I ran the lettering in the opposite direction (reads from the speaker to the amp).  Then I put a very gentle twist on the cables of about 9 twists for the eight foot pair that I built.  Repeat for the other speaker.  Spades?  Because the cable is 6 awg, they are pretty thick.  I didn't have spades on hand with eyelets large enough to accommodate the diameter of the cable, so I trimmed it down a bit while spreading the eyelet open a little.  When it all came together, I soldered it up and forgot about it.  Don't sweat the kind of spades to use - it isn't going to make a huge difference anyway.  After all this, you may find out that the cables sound better reversed - no problem, try anything you desire.  Break-in takes a while.  But, don't get crazy worrying about it.  Let everything play out and you'll ultimately be happy.  It has been observed that direction of the wire varies depending on location it is purchased - try it both ways just to be sure.
   "This is an especially effective solution for systems using high power amplifiers into 4 Ohm loudspeakers.  Don't think, however, that this cable will only work with one amp and one speaker - it will work with everything.  Try it, the best speaker cables you may ever need may cost you about fifty bucks."