I have no problem with you posting pics of your crossover here. This is an informative thread and things like this adds further information.
One thing that will degrade the sound is the insertion of the little terminals to accept slip on connectors. There is no reason to break the pathway and insert a piece of Tin or Aluminum. Just getting those out of the path will be a notable improvement.
Squeezing the cap will effect the value. Even holding it in your hand can do that as well. The heat and pressure from your hand can sway the value one way or another. I can watch that on my measuring system pretty easily. Don't fret too much though. It will likely have only moved its value 1/2 of a % or less. I'd be surprised if it shifted 1%. It is already +/-5% tolerance so there is no telling where it really is to begin with.
Another thing to keep in mind is the quality of the iron core slug and its effect. It looks pretty small so that would be a concern to me. I wouldn't use any iron core inductor on anything covering any mid-range areas. 200Hz or less is fine though. Then again the rest of the parts are not exactly top notch either. So it just depends on the speaker and what it will be used for. These my be used in a public address speaker for all I know and in that case the quality of the parts are fine.
If you are willing to spend Clarity Cap money on the tweeter circuit then you might also consider some Sonicaps. It is a better quality cap and I send them out in matched pairs at no additional cost.
Your board layout looks fine, BTW.
Thanks for your reply and taking a look. Not a PA speaker.
I talked to them about upgrading the steel laminate core Inductor to an air-core, and they said to match the DCR would require something like a 12 gauge air-core. Then again, the difference between 0.3 ohms and 0.6 ohms is probably less than I think. It's in-line with a $60 woofer.
The inductors are decent, they are hand-wound with "five nines" copper, so probably better than the 96% copper Jantzen air cores that are so popular. I upgraded to lynk resistors as well over sandcast.
The little metal clips I am actually going to use as solder points- going to solder the leads to one point and the stranded wire to the other. I am not going to use quick disconnects on the board, but I do use to connect to driver tabs, since I'm wary of soldering to my drivers.