AudioCircle

Audio/Video Gear and Systems => Planar Circle => Topic started by: Minn Mark on 7 Jan 2011, 03:30 pm

Title: Mye Stands
Post by: Minn Mark on 7 Jan 2011, 03:30 pm
I'm a 3.6 owner and did a prelimiary search in this Circle for a similar topic. I'm considering Mye stands. What's the overarching opinion in the Forum:

1) a great and necessary accessory?
2) an OK improvement but costly?
3) Don't bother, spend improvement dollars elsewhere? 

Appreciate any feedback.

PS- I'm currently using 12 AWG cable (parts Exresss)  bi-wired to a Van Alstine Insight 440H amp.

Thanks,

Mark
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: AVnerdguy on 7 Jan 2011, 03:44 pm
I have 1.7s and the Mye stands. IMO a definite yes. I noticed a better (tighter) bottom end but the best reason is the physical stability for mounting. Grant is a great person to work with as well. Excellent product (I think he could charge more and nobody would blink) and outstanding customer service. Well worth the investment.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: gtb75 on 9 Jan 2011, 05:18 am
Very highly recommended...  I've got a set on my 3.6's - made a huge difference across the board.  Lots of good feedback here:  http://www.myesound.com/Testimonials.html

The good news is the 3.7's use the same frame as the 3.6's (per Wendell at Magnepan), so I won't need to buy new stands if I decide to upgrade  :green:
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: TheChairGuy on 9 Jan 2011, 02:37 pm
Mark,

I was the first guy to get the Mye top-and-bottom sections for the MMG when I owned them.....that purchase was much more beneficial to improving the Maggies than a pricier outboard crossovers and removal of stock fuse and binding posts were.

Bracing them floppy panels seems to be the highest order of improvement for Maggies.  As you run up the range, not the baffle thickness and heaviness increases on each model...so it seems something Magnepan figured out long ago.

John
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: andyr on 10 Jan 2011, 03:14 am

I'm a 3.6 owner and did a prelimiary search in this Circle for a similar topic. I'm considering Mye stands. What's the overarching opinion in the Forum:

1) a great and necessary accessory?
2) an OK improvement but costly?
3) Don't bother, spend improvement dollars elsewhere? 

Appreciate any feedback.

PS- I'm currently using 12 AWG cable (parts Exresss)  bi-wired to a Van Alstine Insight 440H amp.

Thanks,

Mark


IMO, Mye stands are the single best upgrade you can make to your Maggies.  Being in Oz, I nearly ordered some 10 years ago for my IIIas, when Grant was just starting off, but the cost of shipping meant I could have some custom-built braced metal stands made up here for a bit less.  :D  (Different and uglier ... but more effective!  :lol: )

And of course, assembling them is pretty simple (given Grant's instructions) so you don't have to be a "DIY maven" to cope!  :)

Regards,

Andy

PS: Whilst Mye stands will improve your 3.6s, there are several other things you can do to give you even better sound, if you have taste for it.  But these are nowhere near as simple to implement! :(
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: trout2 on 13 Jan 2011, 04:42 pm
Major improvement in the 3.6R's bass slam. Reduces smearing as well.  Using rubber wheel casters (Home Depot) instead of spikes so that the speakers are easy to move around. Very solid product/service/ really worth the money.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: Minn Mark on 13 Jan 2011, 06:33 pm
Thanks to all for the great feedback.

I have always used the 3.6 with the tweeters on the inside. Currently I have them about 8 ft apart, toe-in so the triangle formed by sight lines would cross in front of my listening position (a recliner) by about a foot or two(about 10-12 ft away; so sound from the mid-bass panels should reach me before the tweeters). They are about 40 inches from back wall and 2.5 ft from side walls. The wall behind me has a stairwell going up, and is about 6-7 ft behind my head. No special room treatments. Imaging is precise but very tight 'sweet spot', and the bass can sometimes be a bit 'tubby'-- a little thick sounding in the mid-bass, to my ears.

Any comments about tweeters on the outside or the geometry of my set-up? Always looking for good advice.

Thanks,

Mark
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: SteveFord on 14 Jan 2011, 01:36 am
There's a thread on ribbon placement here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=87504.0

I've found that the further you can get the speakers away from the walls the better.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: trout2 on 14 Jan 2011, 03:46 pm
Get your room measured for bass nodes etc.. You may have a boost in the 60-80 hz range (at your listening chair) if your bass is sounding tubby...My findings are that treating the room is one of the best ways to get better audio.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: SteveFord on 12 Mar 2011, 11:54 pm
I finally built my own stands for my 3.6s today and it was worth the effort as the bass is much more pronounced and the sound itself is more focused without that monster panel moving around.
The improvement is NOT subtle.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: Elizabeth on 13 Mar 2011, 02:07 am
The Mye stands are supposed to be the big improvement for bass in a Maggie.
Over on Audio Asylum, the planar forum plenty of folks and  comments on them. The other thing that seems to be hot is re-placing the panels into a real wood frame.
I have 3.6s i bought a year ago, and the only thing i have thought i might do is the Mye stands.
I also have my Maggies with tweets in. 40" from back wall and only about 20" from sides. so they are wide apart. turned in form triangle at seated position. I'm happy with them like this.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: krikor on 13 Mar 2011, 09:39 pm
I finally built my own stands for my 3.6s today and it was worth the effort as the bass is much more pronounced and the sound itself is more focused without that monster panel moving around.
The improvement is NOT subtle.

What type of stand did you build? I've seen several different approaches on audio asylum and mug website. Been contemplating this for a long time, but just haven't gone through withnit yet.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: SteveFord on 13 Mar 2011, 10:17 pm
I just went with two 2x2s attached to the top and down to a 3'x2' base so it forms a triangle.
It's ugly as sin so I might try the Mye stealth approach next.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: Elizabeth on 14 Mar 2011, 04:13 am
A cheap and 'dirty' Mye stand would be to weld a "V" steel along under the current 't' shaped stands. with a hinge welded at back end. "V" shaped angled up to same spot with other part of hinge welded to bottom of brace part. Cut top of brace at correct angle, weld on flat bit with hole to screw in the frame.
So for cost of about 12 ft of angle iron, and a few welds, a pair of hinges, and some paint, you got a Mye stand on the cheap.
The "V" under the current foot could be extended back a few extra inches if desired.
 :banana piano:
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: pelliott321 on 14 Mar 2011, 04:16 pm

(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=44191)
when I rebuilt my IIIa's I looked for the simplest and most stable solution.  I have tiptoes at the bottom corners of the frame and a lead shopt filled pipe supporting the top.  Not much more than a tripod and rock steady
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=44192)
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: SteveFord on 16 Mar 2011, 09:38 am
Where did you source the connectors for the top and bottom of the pole?  That looks to be 1" black pipe?
I think I'll do something similar but will go with two rods in possibly an X configuration.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: andyr on 16 Mar 2011, 10:01 am

Where did you source the connectors for the top and bottom of the pole?  That looks to be 1" black pipe?
I think I'll do something similar but will go with two rods in possibly an X configuration.


Steve, I suggest 2 rods is not necessary if you do what Peter did ... which is to replace the stock MDF frame with a hardwood frame.  :)

And just adding a diagonal brace (or two) to the back of the stock MDF frame is a waste of time, IMO.  :o

Regards,

Andy
Title: Support pole
Post by: pelliott321 on 16 Mar 2011, 02:31 pm
I used 1 inch alum electrical conduit, plugged one end with 3-4 inch hardwood (red oak) dowel.  I had to sand the dowel down a bit then hammered it in.  Turned the pole around filled with lead shot, packed it tight by ramming it.  Poured in WEST epoxy resin until it would not take any more.  After the resin hardened I tapped (threaded) the (bottom) end and inserted a tiptoe.  The other (top) end I drilled through the pipe and wood dowel to accept a bolt and nut to fasten it to a bracket I made out aluminum channel attached to the top center of the panel.  I covered the pole with black heat shrink tubing, heated it for a tight fit.   The pole is very dead.
I added three zinc donuts (used on prop shafts on motor boats) as weights at the bottom of the pole for added stability. 
The above sounds like a lot of work but it really wasn't. Much simpler than building a metal or wood frame to hold the panel up.  I believe I got great coupling to the floor.  I may add a couple of zinc plates to the bottom of the panel for more mass.  The panels really do not vibrate much at all unless I really turn it up. 
I may do one other mod that AndyR suggested and that is to cut a slot (1/8 inch, width of a saw blade between the ribbon and the mid panel.  This would run from about 6 inches from the top to 6 inches from the bottom.  This would help decouple the ribbon some.  Still trying to decide if this would be worth the trouble.               
Title: Re: Support pole
Post by: andyr on 16 Mar 2011, 07:24 pm

I may do one other mod that AndyR suggested and that is to cut a slot (1/8 inch, width of a saw blade between the ribbon and the mid panel.  This would run from about 6 inches from the top to 6 inches from the bottom.  This would help decouple the ribbon some.  Still trying to decide if this would be worth the trouble.


Mate, now that I have the ribbon and mid in a separate frame to the bass frame (with my Frankenpans), I'm more convinced than before that this is a good thing.  :D  So it would be better to build a separate frame for your ribbons - like benie, or hoshi (on Planar Asylum) has done - but, given this will be a major PITA for you, given you've already built hardwood frames, that sawcut will be a good idea ... although make it 2" from the top to 2" from the bottom.  :)

Regards,

Andy
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: pelliott321 on 20 Mar 2011, 02:52 pm
Thanks Andy
Yea..... New frames will probably happen, espcially now that I have a second set of panels and ribbons. Its getting warmer here in Maryland and my unheated woodshop will be comming on line soon.
I saw your new xover spreadsheet on MUG.  Amazing work, thanks for that.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: berni on 7 Apr 2011, 07:12 pm
How good or necessary are Mye stands for MG 20.1? Do they improve the lower section a lot?
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: SteveFord on 7 Apr 2011, 11:49 pm
Those 20.1s still have those same silly little feet, do they not? 
That's a hell of a big, heavy panel with some really small supports.
I've tried to interest Magnepan in addressing this issue but that's not going to change anytime soon.
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: andyr on 8 Apr 2011, 01:47 am

How good or necessary are Mye stands for MG 20.1? Do they improve the lower section a lot?


IMO Mye stands improve any Maggie ... and the bigger the bass panels they have, the more improvement is achieved.  :)

Regards,

Andy
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: berni on 8 Apr 2011, 04:58 pm
I own the 20.1 for some 2 months now, very suprised about the great sound and wide stage, but I think there is lot of music  still hidden in them. I was thinking what a small rigid tube(different profiles can be chosen) would do, if screwed to the back side, all the lenght of the panel. This would also give a lot of rigidity , maybe even more then the Mye stands which support only one point in the middle of the panel.
Sorry for my bad english. I'm from Slovenia.
Bernard
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: andyr on 8 Apr 2011, 10:59 pm
I own the 20.1 for some 2 months now, very suprised about the great sound and wide stage, but I think there is lot of music  still hidden in them. I was thinking what a small rigid tube (different profile can be chosen) would do, if screwed to the back side, all the lenght of the panel. This would also give a lot of rigidity , maybe even more then the Mye stands which support only one point in the middle of the panel.
Sorry for my bad english. I'm from Slovenia.
Bernard

Hey Bernard,

You lucky man, owning some 20.1s.  :)  Your thinking is correct - supporting the (floppy) MDF frame with just a single strut in the middle is not ideal; adding a square tube each side, behind the panel, is a better thing to do.  So yes, you need to stiffen the MDF frame but you also need to stop the panels swaying back and forth.

Have a look in the gallery here:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=user;id=323

... to see the stands which I developed for my IIIas.  The pic on the left is my original stands - as you can see, the steel "arms" bolt to the back of the frames in 3 places, each side.  The pic on the right shows what I subsequently had made up ... the front part of each A-frame strut screws to the back of the frame.

BTW, your written English is fine!   :)

Good luck,

Andy
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: berni on 9 Apr 2011, 07:27 am
Hey Andy,
great work!
Only I was thinking to use some aluminium profile which doesn't adds so mouch weight, can be almost invisible from the side . You really  dont want to do a mash on the backside, this can and will interact with the sound.
I was thinking to use one that is wider but not so high, aluminium profiles can get pretty more stiff then regular stell tubes.You also have the possibility of connecting them with system bolts, no welding required., that means they can be pretty coll.
here some examples of profiles, did not really made up my mind which to use
http://www.minitec.si/izdelki.php

these was also done by me , a hifi rack made with adjustable tables on aluminium bars(but I don't use it any more)

http://www.audio-kontakt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1135

Thanks Andy!

With regards
Bernard
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: berni on 22 Apr 2011, 04:47 pm
I was listening to some music with more low fq power and recognized some movement of the frame . When I pressed my ear to the frame I could clearly hear which part of the frame moved with the music mostly.
I think that givinmg more rigidity to the frame, without adding mass will lead to more precise middle and low end , also increasing the low end power.
I am really thinking about doing it out of milled aluminum to get the most rigidity and little mass.
A sort like on the picture but not the same form.
I also have a question! Can I unscrew all the screws in the line of the handle without worry that the 20.1 will fall apart. Then I will use the same screws to tighten the milled aluminium strut.
(http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=45888)
Title: Re: Mye Stands
Post by: berni on 14 May 2011, 01:59 pm
All measurements are done, the sketches made, aluminum ordered. I think in a week they will be ready, black anodized and assembled. Will send photos of the process.