[amblin]

I wonder what bryston used while testing their speakers in the sound chamber.. If it's good enough for serious tests, should be good in real life as well...

I use inter-locked hard wood floor (~1.1g/cm^3 and 3/4 inch thick)  over around 2 inches of cemented masonite HDF. The floor was part of the decoration but the masonite board was my idea so it's one solid piece instead of being similar to an empty sound box if traditionally suspended.

Now I just hope the pipes and wires under it can last forever 

[dgarratt]

Here is the response I got from B&W when I posed the question to their support team:

We would expect the spikes to improve the overall performance of the speakers as the spikes reduce the surface area contact that the speaker sits on the floor.
 
This reduction means its coupling to the floor is very small, you should experience a tighter bass performance, reduced transfer of energy to the floor, tightening midrange focus and cleaning up the higher frequencies.
 
Overall, the presentation of the 802 Diamonds will be tidier, revealing the true capabilities of the speakers, there should be a more pronounced difference between light and airy tracks to those that are fuller and heavier.
 
It's certainly our experience and highly recommended.

It now seems obvious from all of the posts on this thread as well as the above response that spikes or isolation/de-coupling is absolutely better than nothing!

[So There]

Here's a question for James and the rest of the gents on the forum:

We recently had a significant earthquake here in Napa, and I lost about 10K worth of Paradigm Reference Signature S8 and S4 speakers, amongst about $40K of other furnishings. I'd mounted the thin S8 towers on Soundocity outriggers, with long spikes coupling them through the carpet to our concrete floor. The rear channel S4s were mounted on the Paradigm stands for those particular speakers, which I'd filled with shot to lower the center of gravity; again, spikes coupled the stands to the floor. All four speakers are quite heavy, the S8s weighing, I believe, about 100 pounds (nothing when the force of a quake wants to move them). The speakers moved wildly and fell over, causing irreparable damage to themselves, one subwoofer, and furniture.

So . . .

With an opportunity (when funds permit) to upgrade to Mr. T's Model Ts and Middle Ts, I'm very concerned about protecting the speakers from future quakes. Would it be feasible to couple the speakers to the floor using outriggers and bolts (or other apt fasteners) tied to expansion anchors drilled into the concrete floor? As you might expect, I'm willing to trade some diminution in sound quality for safety.

I welcome your thoughts,

Rich
__________________
Shaky Napa Valley

The means — Bryston SP3 | Bryston 6B-SST(C) - L/C/R; 4B-SST(C) - surrounds; 4B-SST(C) - rears | Bryston BDP-2 Digital Player; BDA-2 D/A Converter; Oppo BDP-105 | Paradigm Reference Signature S8 fronts; C5 center; ADP surrounds; S4 rears; two Velodyne DD15 subs | APC S20 | Pioneer Elite PRO-1130

[James Tanner]

Hi Rich

Here are the XL versions of the Outriggers for the Model T's in my setup at home.




james

[amblin]

So there :

A friend of mine use a thick rubber elastic belt fitted around the top of his speaker suspended by 2 'invisible' steel cables bolted to the ceiling. The setup survived multiple quakes. 

His point is not to 'anchor' the speakers to the floor, but to provide a form of suspension so it won't fall over in case of an earthquake.

[werd]

Hi Rich

Here are the XL versions of the Outriggers for the Model T's in my setup at home.




james

You should see if you can provide him with wider outriggers. A wider reach to resist toppling.

[James Tanner]

These would take a truck to tip them over (believe me I have tried) but I think the idea above of not allowing them to topple if the floor moves is a much better idea.

james

[werd]

These would take a truck to tip them over (believe me I have tried) but I think the idea above of not allowing them to topple if the floor moves is a much better idea.

james

For small tremors maybe. But trying to defeat an earth quake by bolting down the speakers seems unlikely.  You would think the cabinet would come apart.

Ok here is where you get to say how well built your cabinets are 

[FireGuy]

You should see if you can provide him with wider outriggers. A wider reach to resist toppling.

[FireGuy]

Those are really nice speakers.  Kudos to Axiom and Bryton for their collaboration.

[werd]

Here's a question for James and the rest of the gents on the forum:

We recently had a significant earthquake here in Napa, and I lost about 10K worth of Paradigm Reference Signature S8 and S4 speakers, amongst about $40K of other furnishings. I'd mounted the thin S8 towers on Soundocity outriggers, with long spikes coupling them through the carpet to our concrete floor. The rear channel S4s were mounted on the Paradigm stands for those particular speakers, which I'd filled with shot to lower the center of gravity; again, spikes coupled the stands to the floor. All four speakers are quite heavy, the S8s weighing, I believe, about 100 pounds (nothing when the force of a quake wants to move them). The speakers moved wildly and fell over, causing irreparable damage to themselves, one subwoofer, and furniture.

So . . .

With an opportunity (when funds permit) to upgrade to Mr. T's Model Ts and Middle Ts, I'm very concerned about protecting the speakers from future quakes. Would it be feasible to couple the speakers to the floor using outriggers and bolts (or other apt fasteners) tied to expansion anchors drilled into the concrete floor? As you might expect, I'm willing to trade some diminution in sound quality for safety.

I welcome your thoughts,

Rich
__________________
Shaky Napa Valley

The means — Bryston SP3 | Bryston 6B-SST(C) - L/C/R; 4B-SST(C) - surrounds; 4B-SST(C) - rears | Bryston BDP-2 Digital Player; BDA-2 D/A Converter; Oppo BDP-105 | Paradigm Reference Signature S8 fronts; C5 center; ADP surrounds; S4 rears; two Velodyne DD15 subs | APC S20 | Pioneer Elite PRO-1130

This is what i would consider.  Think of a guitar stand, how the claws rest around the neck to hold the guitar on the stand. Same thing but a stand that encompasses the speaker and doesn't allow it to topple. The stand never makes contact with the speaker unless  there's severe movement.

It might look like this chair hammock but with guitar stand claws around the speaker. 

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Brown-Wicker-Outdoor-Swinging-Chair/8784494/product.html?refccid=T65RWHKDE7VKMYCD2WW3ZNRZUU&searchidx=3

[werd]

Hi Rich

Here are the XL versions of the Outriggers for the Model T's in my setup at home.




james

Hey James is that blood on the floor at your speakers? What did you drop the speaker on your toe?
 

[James Tanner]

Hey James is that blood on the floor at your speakers? What did you drop the speaker on your toe?
 

LOL - no werd its the red stickers I use when I move the speakers in and out for evaluation and want to make sure I am using the exact same location.

james

[95Dyna]

LOL - no werd its the red stickers I use when I move the speakers in and out for evaluation and want to make sure I am using the exact same location.

james

James,

Is that the rosewood finish in the foreground?

[James Tanner]

James,

Is that the rosewood finish in the foreground?

Hi

No it is the Boston Cherry Finish - looks a lot like Rosewood though.

james

[Raimo]

I found this old thread.
There is a Swedish loudspeaker damping feet that really makes a difference in getting the kabinet dead still.
I have used them for 10-15 years and they are great.
Here is the home page;
http://www.sonicdesign.se/default.htm

[JLM]

Its reliant on what the floor is and your speakers. Spikes are desirable for concrete, basements and any flloor that is rigid and basically won't shift under weight. If i had a suspended floor i would not use spikes but speakers platforms as you had done. If i couldn't get them to work i would buy new speakers. Knowing that those speakers are not suited for suspended floors.

The whole idea about spiking is to reduce the energy into the floor. Not to fix room acoustics but to relieve the speaker cabinet sound signature from the soundstage. Iows you hear less cabinet.

What you've done (and i applaud your fortitude) is you found the best way to seat your speakers. Even if it meant pouring concrete.

+1

Most of this is moot if you keep the volume turned down.  Using subwoofers (with lots of weights added in a fashion that bonds them to each sub) should take the issue off the main speakers. 

[thumblessly]

Here's a question for James and the rest of the gents on the forum:

We recently had a significant earthquake here in Napa, and I lost about 10K worth of Paradigm Reference Signature S8 and S4 speakers, amongst about $40K of other furnishings. I'd mounted the thin S8 towers on Soundocity outriggers, with long spikes coupling them through the carpet to our concrete floor. The rear channel S4s were mounted on the Paradigm stands for those particular speakers, which I'd filled with shot to lower the center of gravity; again, spikes coupled the stands to the floor. All four speakers are quite heavy, the S8s weighing, I believe, about 100 pounds (nothing when the force of a quake wants to move them). The speakers moved wildly and fell over, causing irreparable damage to themselves, one subwoofer, and furniture.

So . . .

With an opportunity (when funds permit) to upgrade to Mr. T's Model Ts and Middle Ts, I'm very concerned about protecting the speakers from future quakes. Would it be feasible to couple the speakers to the floor using outriggers and bolts (or other apt fasteners) tied to expansion anchors drilled into the concrete floor? As you might expect, I'm willing to trade some diminution in sound quality for safety.

I welcome your thoughts,

Rich
__________________
Shaky Napa Valley

The means — Bryston SP3 | Bryston 6B-SST(C) - L/C/R; 4B-SST(C) - surrounds; 4B-SST(C) - rears | Bryston BDP-2 Digital Player; BDA-2 D/A Converter; Oppo BDP-105 | Paradigm Reference Signature S8 fronts; C5 center; ADP surrounds; S4 rears; two Velodyne DD15 subs | APC S20 | Pioneer Elite PRO-1130

Doubtful this will help you in any way, but just to share my experience...

I was here in Japan for 3/11 and my area of Tokyo had hits in the 6.0-7.0 range, as well as all the countless aftershocks. Those went on daily for weeks. Even now, years later, we still have quakes every month that while aren't nearly as bad, are still noticeable and sometimes make you get up and walk into the next room just to make sure all is well.

When I was first setting up my main listening room before 3/11, I had KEF Q300 bookshelf speakers sitting on Custom Design stands. The stands where multi-columned and I filled all with acoustic sand which literally quadrupled their weight, and really deadened them, but also made them anchors. They were spiked bottomed stands, but I had the spikes seated to feet, as well.

The one addition to this were gel-like, adhesive squares which I places on the four corners on each speaker were they met the speaker stands. They allow items to move during an earthquake but provide enough hold to prevent from tipping. The ones sold here in Japan come in different shapes and forms and can really do what they're made to do.

In my case, I was not at home when the 3/11 quake came. By time I made it home 2 days later, I was prepared to find the speakers toppled and destroyed, as well as the rest of my interior. But they held. Stands on spikes and feet didn't move. And the speakers were still centered perfectly on top of the stands.

[DaveC113]

I found this old thread.
There is a Swedish loudspeaker damping feet that really makes a difference in getting the kabinet dead still.
I have used them for 10-15 years and they are great.
Here is the home page;
http://www.sonicdesign.se/default.htm

Very good information in there! 

[Big Red Machine]

Based on my little experiment here I am convinced that isolating the speakers, much like subwoofers, is a better sounding solution than "spiking" them.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=149309.new#new

So now when funds allow I will be after something like this:
http://www.isoacoustics.com/products/gaia-series/gaia-i/

unless I can figure out a way to make my own with some shallow metal cups facing down over pads like the above.

FYI, I am in the basement with the speakers solidly over concrete. Wooden structures or joists, etc. may not be compatible with iso pads.