The best sounding subs need a solid box...

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Danny Richie

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #60 on: 21 Jan 2009, 02:36 pm »
Quote
Good idea?

I can't see that it would hurt.

Cacophonix

Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #61 on: 21 Jan 2009, 03:50 pm »

How about a variation of the sand box idea, a sort of in-between the sand and non-sand versions.

One of my "diy project to be" is building one of Bob Brines TL single driver speakers (LT-2000). He sells the plans, which I have purchased. In it, and on his web site, he states that he uses Hardi-Backer board to line the inner enclosure, before attaching the damping insulation.

Obviously one would have to adjust the internal volume measurements to account for the extra lining.

Good idea?



I'd built ft1600mkii using the plans bought from bob brines. The resulting cabinet was extremely inert. I'm sure that if you build the servo sub using this technique will work out just great!

jk@home

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #62 on: 22 Jan 2009, 12:40 pm »

How about a variation of the sand box idea, a sort of in-between the sand and non-sand versions.

One of my "diy project to be" is building one of Bob Brines TL single driver speakers (LT-2000). He sells the plans, which I have purchased. In it, and on his web site, he states that he uses Hardi-Backer board to line the inner enclosure, before attaching the damping insulation.

Obviously one would have to adjust the internal volume measurements to account for the extra lining.

Good idea?



I'd built ft1600mkii using the plans bought from bob brines. The resulting cabinet was extremely inert. I'm sure that if you build the servo sub using this technique will work out just great!

Good news. How did you cut the Hardi board stuff? I imagine it was a mess to do so. Been there/done that.

I just picked up a Husky wet saw from Home Depot for a 800 sq. ft. paver job I'm trying to get done (with no help from the weather :) ) I could probably cut rough pieces with a circular saw w/masonry blade, then use the wet saw for final precision cuts.

Cacophonix

Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #63 on: 22 Jan 2009, 05:42 pm »
I didn't go with precision cuts for i don't have the tools needed. I used a knife to make marking on the hardibacker, and then used a hammer to break it. Worked okay :)

rajacat

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #64 on: 22 Jan 2009, 07:21 pm »
Just cut the Hardibacker with a circular saw. Use a clamped board for a guide. Since, I presume, you won't be making numerous cuts, the saw bearings won't be damaged by the dust.

-Roy

Savjac

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #65 on: 5 May 2009, 10:03 pm »
Well reading this and speaking to Danny convinced me to do this exact sub.
Its going into a smallish audio only room so it appears we should be good to go very soon.

Jack

IronForge

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #66 on: 6 May 2009, 03:04 am »
I did not do the outer layer on mine, but otherwise the construction is similar.  I'm about 250lbs and was able to jump up and down on it with no flex.



This is the GR-Research SW-12 subwoofer with the PR.  I had to cut a small notch for the plate amp to fit in all the way.

jlafrenz

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #67 on: 7 May 2011, 01:57 pm »
The amp has a gasket on it that will seal it. I did however, put a small enclosure around mine to further seal it. I will have the flat wall of the amp enclosure covered with No Rez as well.

Do you happen to have a picture of this? 

Danny Richie

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #68 on: 7 May 2011, 02:29 pm »
Quote
Do you happen to have a picture of this? 

I do not.

jlafrenz

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #69 on: 7 May 2011, 02:57 pm »
I do not.

Would it work to inset the amp slightly into only the outer layer of MDF and the use some rope caulk as a seal?

mikeeastman

Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #70 on: 7 May 2011, 03:24 pm »
I'm going to build two subs, one of Danny's servo subs and another . I plan to line inside of boxes with a 3/8"-1/2" layer of a sound deadening material, used to deaden car body panels (called eDead made by Elemental design) mixed with lead shot with No-Rez over that, Here is pics of test samples I did. Sides will be 1 1/4" MDF the back will be  1 1/4" and 3/4" MDF and the front baffle will be 1 1/4" MDf sandwiched between 2 -3/4" MDF pieces with some kind of deadening layers, maybe eDead and vinyl floor tile on both sides and edges of the 1 1/4" MDF. my question is will it be a problem applying the No-Rez over this layer as it is not that smooth. Here is pics of test samples I did.




Danny Richie

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #71 on: 7 May 2011, 04:45 pm »
Would it work to inset the amp slightly into only the outer layer of MDF and the use some rope caulk as a seal?

It has a good gasket on it already and seals fine.

vinylvalet

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #72 on: 29 Jan 2018, 05:36 pm »
Danny,
I was planning on building the Rythmik Audio DS1200 CI subs. Recently I found this thread. In what ways would your Servo Sub kit 2 with the sandbox cabinet be superior? Looks to me to be a better sub and a better value. Thanks.

Danny Richie

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #73 on: 29 Jan 2018, 05:59 pm »
Danny,
I was planning on building the Rythmik Audio DS1200 CI subs. Recently I found this thread. In what ways would your Servo Sub kit 2 with the sandbox cabinet be superior? Looks to me to be a better sub and a better value. Thanks.

Those woofers put quite a bit of force on the cabinet walls. The more solid and less resonant you can make them then the better they will sound.

rollo

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Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #74 on: 29 Jan 2018, 08:33 pm »
I'm going to build two subs, one of Danny's servo subs and another . I plan to line inside of boxes with a 3/8"-1/2" layer of a sound deadening material, used to deaden car body panels (called eDead made by Elemental design) mixed with lead shot with No-Rez over that, Here is pics of test samples I did. Sides will be 1 1/4" MDF the back will be  1 1/4" and 3/4" MDF and the front baffle will be 1 1/4" MDf sandwiched between 2 -3/4" MDF pieces with some kind of deadening layers, maybe eDead and vinyl floor tile on both sides and edges of the 1 1/4" MDF. my question is will it be a problem applying the No-Rez over this layer as it is not that smooth. Here is pics of test samples I did.





  Mike no need for such construction it is overkill. Just use Danny's plans with no-rez and be a happy camper.


charles

mikeeastman

Re: The best sounding subs need a solid box...
« Reply #75 on: 29 Jan 2018, 09:18 pm »
 Charles, I actually didn't do that exact design and didn't use it with one of Danny's subs. The box I built for my seal GR sub used the sand box design but with lead shot instead of sand, one very dead box.