The quality level of bass reproduction... exceeds any other...at any price.

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gregfisk

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Greg, Iam in northwestern Sydney. Look me up if your in town. If you go to Melbourne look up Paul Spencer for a demo.
Cheers

Thanks A2,

Melbourne is where I went last time, will definitely go back there again.

SoCalWJS

Some movie sound tracks really jack up the output down low and can bottom out, or over drive a lot of good subs.

And a lot of our music lover like to use the 14Hz extension filter and low damping for music. And this is not a problem.

However, when playing some of those movies it is a good idea to turn on the rumble filter and change the extension filter to 20 or 28Hz. Increasing the damping to medium or high will help as well.
Is there a good resource out there to explain what each of the switches and knobs do on this servo amp?

I know various settings have been discussed, and there has even been a nice diagram made so that you can record (and compare) your settings, but I don't recall seeing anything with full explanations or graphs showing the ranges of changes you can make with these.

Starting to play around after getting my speakers back together and taking measurements. It's pretty good, but not where I want it. Measures pretty flat at 1/48th octave, but I (and my wife) prefer a bit more of a "house curve" in our listening.  :oops:

Tyson

Is there a good resource out there to explain what each of the switches and knobs do on this servo amp?

I know various settings have been discussed, and there has even been a nice diagram made so that you can record (and compare) your settings, but I don't recall seeing anything with full explanations or graphs showing the ranges of changes you can make with these.

Starting to play around after getting my speakers back together and taking measurements. It's pretty good, but not where I want it. Measures pretty flat at 1/48th octave, but I (and my wife) prefer a bit more of a "house curve" in our listening.  :oops:

I too prefer a house curve.  I also set it to high damping, so even though it's a bit louder than flat, its still very, very tight, fast and musical, and not overblown at all.  I turn on the rumble filter as well as set the extension filter to 28hz.  Oh, the other thing - when you are setting the EQ, never, ever boost a null, only ever reduce a peak.  The other thing with setting the EQ is to measure each speaker individually - they will have slightly different places that need to be EQ'd. 

A printable diagram for recording settings would be cool, though.

Danny Richie

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There is some additional amp info here: http://gr-research.com/a370peq.aspx

Tyson

Ah, THROWBACK just sent me his diagram that he created and asked me to post it.  Here it is, feel free to use it:


SoCalWJS

There is some additional amp info here: http://gr-research.com/a370peq.aspx
PERFECT! Exactly what I was looking for! (Thought I'd seen it years ago, but forgot where it was)

Thank you Danny!

SoCalWJS

Ah, THROWBACK just sent me his diagram that he created and asked me to post it.  Here it is, feel free to use it:


Yup. Have that one saved on the hard drive. Need to print it out when I stat making serious adjustments (i.e., next time I'm home alone and can run test test tones for an extended period of time w/o driving Anne nuts)

SteveKi

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There was another place that had the recommended initial settings for the A370PEQ OB H-frame when used in a stereo music setup. Anyone have a link for that?

I had my OB Dual H-frames over a friends house to demo and he had them dialed in with his system better than I've ever managed to do with mine.
Steve


gregfisk

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There was another place that had the recommended initial settings for the A370PEQ OB H-frame when used in a stereo music setup. Anyone have a link for that?

I had my OB Dual H-frames over a friends house to demo and he had them dialed in with his system better than I've ever managed to do with mine.
Steve

I think Jay posted a picture of the 370 amp dialed in for the Super Vs. Not sure how helpful this would be for other applications but maybe it's a start.

THROWBACK

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"I think Jay posted a picture of the 370 amp dialed in for the Super Vs. Not sure how helpful this would be for other applications but maybe it's a start."


Maybe a good starting place for the Super V's (Tyson?) but I would be darned surprised if that's all it took even if you had those. I have a pretty symmetrical room and I placed my speakers fairly precisely within it.  But my settings were different for each speaker and it took a number of hours to get them dialed in. Once there, however: oh boy!

SoCalWJS

"I think Jay posted a picture of the 370 amp dialed in for the Super Vs. Not sure how helpful this would be for other applications but maybe it's a start."


Maybe a good starting place for the Super V's (Tyson?) but I would be darned surprised if that's all it took even if you had those. I have a pretty symmetrical room and I placed my speakers fairly precisely within it.  But my settings were different for each speaker and it took a number of hours to get them dialed in. Once there, however: oh boy!
So, how did you dial them in? I'm going to see what I can achieve via "flattest frequency response" as a starting point, but figure I'll start playing around from there.

Looks like I get the house to myself for at least a couple of hours on Friday, so I'll try reading up on the various settings and possibilities til then.

mlundy57

So, how did you dial them in? I'm going to see what I can achieve via "flattest frequency response" as a starting point, but figure I'll start playing around from there.

Looks like I get the house to myself for at least a couple of hours on Friday, so I'll try reading up on the various settings and possibilities til then.

I'm not Chuck but I used a combination of starting by placing them 3ft from the wall then with one side at a time playing, moving the speaker back and forth into the room until I got the best base I could within the amount of room I had to work with. Then I did the other side. Next I moved them farther apart, again within the confines of the space I could maneuver in till they sounded best. Then adjusted toe in to center a vocal image.

After that I connected the computer and used REW, running 15Hz-300Hz frequency sweeps, to adjust the crossover points, again one side at a time. Since I was using the Otica MTMs on top of the H-frames I shot one of the MTMs (sub off) first and determined where its 6dB down point was. Then I turned the MTM off and shot the sub and adjusted the crossover until its was 6dB down at the same place the MTM was. Then I turned on both the sub and MTM and ran REW to see how well they blended. Then tweaked the crossover until I got the smoothest response. Then I turned that channel off and did the other channel.

Next I went back to one channel, both MTM and sub, and ran REW frequency sweeps from 15Hz - 20kHz looking for peaks, adjusting PEQ parameters until I got the smoothest response. Then I did the other side.

Now it is fiddle time with the extension, damping, and filter, etc. switches, rerunning REW after changes to see if I needed to readjust the PEQ settings.

Then sit back and listen. Then walk away for awhile. Then listen again and see if you still like it. If so done. If not, fiddle some more until you do like it.

I'm sure there are other ways that would work also.

Mike


Rocket_Ronny

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Just wondering what the recommended GR Sub hook up is to an amplifier? Is it to just run the positive leads of the amp to the servo amp inputs, or should one add a negative connection on one channel as well?

Rocket Ronny

mlundy57

Just wondering what the recommended GR Sub hook up is to an amplifier? Is it to just run the positive leads of the amp to the servo amp inputs, or should one add a negative connection on one channel as well?

Rocket Ronny

Are you asking about connecting the Rythmik plate amp to a preamp or power amp or are you asking about connecting the Rythmik servo plat amp to the drivers?

THROWBACK

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Ref Mike Lundy #72

Mike did not mention the phase control, but that turned out to be very important. Even though I did my best to physically align the woofer cones of the subs and the mains, it wasn't enough. I still had to fiddle with the phase control for each speaker and then together to get the flattest response. And the setting was different for each speaker. 

It's hard to do by yourself. My friend has a rather sophisticated calibrated mic and audio analyzer. We used the Stereophile Test Disc #1 to send pink noise through the amp and speakers to the analyzer. Wash, rinse, repeat; wash, rinse, repeat.

When it's right, it's right. But it sure takes a while.

SoCalWJS

Ref Mike Lundy #72

Mike did not mention the phase control, but that turned out to be very important. Even though I did my best to physically align the woofer cones of the subs and the mains, it wasn't enough. I still had to fiddle with the phase control for each speaker and then together to get the flattest response. And the setting was different for each speaker. 

It's hard to do by yourself. My friend has a rather sophisticated calibrated mic and audio analyzer. We used the Stereophile Test Disc #1 to send pink noise through the amp and speakers to the analyzer. Wash, rinse, repeat; wash, rinse, repeat.

When it's right, it's right. But it sure takes a while.
I've always had trouble adjusting Phase. What do people use other than "play a piece with good bass, then adjust til it sounds best". Absolute phase is easy for me. Zero to One Eighty, not so much. I've seen some interesting suggestions online:

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/setting-subwoofer-phase-easy-way

but am wide open to other suggestions.

Tyson

I've always had trouble adjusting Phase. What do people use other than "play a piece with good bass, then adjust til it sounds best". Absolute phase is easy for me. Zero to One Eighty, not so much. I've seen some interesting suggestions online:

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/setting-subwoofer-phase-easy-way

but am wide open to other suggestions.

Generally speaking, the most important place to have the sub and speaker in-phase is at the crossover point.  Here's a cool trick.  Try to make the phase as bad as possible.  You can see when phase is bad because you'll get a very bad/deep null at the crossover point.  Once you make it as bad as you possibly can, just reverse the phase 180 degrees.  Now you have perfect phase at the crossover point. 

gregfisk

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Just wondering what the recommended GR Sub hook up is to an amplifier? Is it to just run the positive leads of the amp to the servo amp inputs, or should one add a negative connection on one channel as well?

Rocket Ronny

Rocket,

If you are asking about from preamp to servo amp I just use the plus + rca out from the pre to the plus + rca in on the servo amp.

Rocket_Ronny

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My question is not about running from the preamp to the servo amps, but from the the poweramp to the servo amps. So in this case one would run the possitive leads from the amp to the servo amp inputs, but is it recommended to also run a negative.

Rocket Ronny