Has anyone built the Dayton Audio 18" Ultimax Subwoofer with SPA1200DSP?

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jtwrace

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As the tittle asks has anyone purchased and built one?  If so, what's the quality of the cabinet like?  Are you happy with your purchase? 

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-with-spa1200dsp-amplifier-and-cabinet-package--300-7200

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=driver&id=58

 

borism

I've built the Dayton Audio 10" Sub. Parts Express gets the cabinet from the DIY Soundgroup. It is great quality, easy to assemble and has performed without any issues. See my build thread:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=144835.0
I can definitely recommend it. However, I have no direct experience with the larger cabinet.

jtwrace

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I've built the Dayton Audio 10" Sub. Parts Express gets the cabinet from the DIY Soundgroup. It is great quality, easy to assemble and has performed without any issues. See my build thread:
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=144835.0
I can definitely recommend it. However, I have no direct experience with the larger cabinet.
Good to hear.  Thanks!   :thumb:

poseidonsvoice

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As the tittle asks has anyone purchased and built one?  If so, what's the quality of the cabinet like?  Are you happy with your purchase? 

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-with-spa1200dsp-amplifier-and-cabinet-package--300-7200

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=driver&id=58

No. But it's certainly a very nice package for decent money and the measurements are irrefutable so why hesitate  :wink:

 :kiss:

Best,
Anand.

jtwrace

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No. But it's certainly a very nice package for decent money and the measurements are irrefutable so why hesitate  ;)

 :kiss:

Best,
Anand.
:lol:    Baaaaaad influence mister.   :nono: :lol:

KLH007

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My friend Dave just put together the U18 and PE KD box, he did not buy the plate amp. He said the box went together easily, I saw it last week and it had nice smooth joints. He's using a Mirror Image amp in stereo, each channel driving a voice coil. The U18 replaced 2 NHT powered subs having 2 12" in each cabinet, equal levels with real low extension as seen in REW measurements. The combo with the SPA1200DSP is a winner, Tom P had that setup and raved about the measured performance and how effective the DSP was in room correction.

jtwrace

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My friend Dave just put together the U18 and PE KD box, he did not buy the plate amp. He said the box went together easily, I saw it last week and it had nice smooth joints. He's using a Mirror Image amp in stereo, each channel driving a voice coil. The U18 replaced 2 NHT powered subs having 2 12" in each cabinet, equal levels with real low extension as seen in REW measurements. The combo with the SPA1200DSP is a winner, Tom P had that setup and raved about the measured performance and how effective the DSP was in room correction.
Thanks for the feedback.  Who's "Tom P"? 

KLH007

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Tom Perazella, writes for Speaker Builder, etc.

Phil A

I can only imagine it would be excellent.  I bought the Dayton Audio Titanic Mk iii sub for the basement in the old house and now use it in the main system for HT.  It's one of those things I follow a bit and one of these days may follow more closely.

jtwrace

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Tom Perazella, writes for Speaker Builder, etc.
Ah ok.  I'll have to look him up. 

jtwrace

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Tom Perazella, writes for Speaker Builder, etc.
Did he write anything about the kit this thread is about?  I found an article about the 12". 

Thanks. 

Mark Korda

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JT,
     I bought a Parts Express 12 inch enclosure for the original Titanic sub woofer. They have a Mark 3 or something like Phil has was describing but it's mostly the same thing.
    I bought my enclosure already built and it is Tiger Tank tough with a real nice cross brace. What I can't understand is how they can make an enclosure so well for the money they ask for it which is on the low side.
    2 years ago my Parts Express sub and enclosure had to spend a winter in a storage container in Portland Maine, unheated. When I found a new place I set it back up and it looked like right out of the box brand new.
   For years of being a lug, moving every thing from woodstoves to refrigerators this Parts Express cabinet is a bitch. When I have to move it and no ones around to help I have to use the form the worlds strongest men do to lift those big round boulders up,...the stones!
  Parts Express has been the best thing for me thru the years of this hobby. They bend over backwards for you. Mark Korda

poseidonsvoice

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JT,
     I bought a Parts Express 12 inch enclosure for the original Titanic sub woofer. They have a Mark 3 or something like Phil has was describing but it's mostly the same thing.
    I bought my enclosure already built and it is Tiger Tank tough with a real nice cross brace. What I can't understand is how they can make an enclosure so well for the money they ask for it which is on the low side.
    2 years ago my Parts Express sub and enclosure had to spend a winter in a storage container in Portland Maine, unheated. When I found a new place I set it back up and it looked like right out of the box brand new.
   For years of being a lug, moving every thing from woodstoves to refrigerators this Parts Express cabinet is a bitch. When I have to move it and no ones around to help I have to use the form the worlds strongest men do to lift those big round boulders up,...the stones!
  Parts Express has been the best thing for me thru the years of this hobby. They bend over backwards for you. Mark Korda

Now that's an endorsement :thumb: I'm a fan of this little Ohio company as well. They are good and answer technical questions quite well.

Best,
Anand.

Wayner

I'm a fan of PE as well, however, I think an 18" subwoofer will piss all over itself, due to size and mass. Everyone wants bass, but not slow bass, that just muddies up the muck IMO, and while it might make a big "boom", I worry that that is exactly what it will be, a great big one note wonder.

I recently picked up an REL that has only an 8" woofer, but it actually plays notes and doesn't slur the notes (that is why the notes are distinctive).

Wayner

Carl V

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Actually a good 18" can do quite well.
I've ran Aurasound 18" drivers for well
over 10+ years. Alignment,Room, set-up
Unless we are talking poorly engineered drivers
or drivers designed to meet a low price/performance
target.

JoshK

I had 4 of these kits, currently have 2.  I moved before I could set them up so the two I have are in storage at the moment.  I can speak to the cabinets being very well done (CNC) and easy to put together.  They line up precisely and I didn't have to use much if any filler to hide the joints. 

I disagree adamantly with Wayner on the 18" sub not working well.  The fast/slow bass thing is a popular audiophile folklore holdover from back in the day when room acoustics, TS parameters and driver specs weren't as well understood.  Those days are gone. What it really boils down to is passband, breakup, inductance and most of all your room!  At these frequencies it is predictable and modelable.   If you are running high inductance drivers, or drivers with severe breakup do to a stiff cone up above 80hz or even lower with a shallow crossover (anything less than LR4) then those old claims come into fruition. 

jtwrace

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I had 4 of these kits, currently have 2.  I moved before I could set them up so the two I have are in storage at the moment.  I can speak to the cabinets being very well done (CNC) and easy to put together.  They line up precisely and I didn't have to use much if any filler to hide the joints. 
Cool, thanks!   :thumb:

Quote
I disagree adamantly with Wayner on the 18" sub not working well.  The fast/slow bass thing is a popular audiophile folklore holdover from back in the day when room acoustics, TS parameters and driver specs weren't as well understood.  Those days are gone. What it really boils down to is passband, breakup, inductance and most of all your room!  At these frequencies it is predictable and modelable.   If you are running high inductance drivers, or drivers with severe breakup do to a stiff cone up above 80hz or even lower with a shallow crossover (anything less than LR4) then those old claims come into fruition.
Yep!

Rusty Jefferson

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Did he write anything about the kit this thread is about?  I found an article about the 12". 

Thanks.

Here's a link to the just published article by Tom.  You'll need to purchase the issue if you want to read it, but it's worth it.  It's an exceptional subwoofer, especially considering the cost. The article includes measurements.  The kit he evaluated is the one seen bring built in the video on the parts express page. Hope this helps. If you'd like to talk with him directly about it, pm me and I'll put you in touch with him.

http://www.audioxpress.com/article/get-hands-on-and-up-to-date-with-audioxpress-february-2017-now-available

jk@home

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As the tittle asks has anyone purchased and built one?  If so, what's the quality of the cabinet like?  Are you happy with your purchase? 

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-with-spa1200dsp-amplifier-and-cabinet-package--300-7200

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=driver&id=58

Yes and YES! But not the plate amp. Just recently finished a pair. Bought the boxes directly from Diy Sound Group, who supplies PE. Excellent product. The drivers from PE, but using two bridged Crown XLS1500s for amps (along with a MiniDSP balanced). Finish is multiple coats of Duratex.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/sealed-subwoofer-flatpacks.html

There is a line of thinking that one can put these together with just glue and tape, but I recommend using clamps. Forces more glue out and results in tighter seams. I've actually started building a third kit, but the 15" version, as a nearfield sub for the same room (HT). Same excellent quality box construction.







For more pics, check out my post on AVS:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2534489-down-firing-um-18-22-ultimax-18-driver.html

 

poseidonsvoice

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I disagree adamantly with Wayner on the 18" sub not working well.  The fast/slow bass thing is a popular audiophile folklore holdover from back in the day when room acoustics, TS parameters and driver specs weren't as well understood.  Those days are gone. What it really boils down to is passband, breakup, inductance and most of all your room!  At these frequencies it is predictable and modelable.   If you are running high inductance drivers, or drivers with severe breakup do to a stiff cone up above 80hz or even lower with a shallow crossover (anything less than LR4) then those old claims come into fruition.


Josh,
A very astute man, once told me (parts of this are relevant here):

Quote
The fact is that people do not have reliable perceptual capabilities when it comes to sound quality. Perception is cognitive and the brain tends to be a dominant factor – the brain tells you what you hear more so than your ears. This is a big problem for someone who has made his or her living by being a “Golden Ear.” It is far easier to simply ignore this area of research than to have to deal with its “answers” being different from your “answers.” Again, this situation is analogous to religion and its relationship to the Theory of Evolution. Many people will completely discount any and all scientific facts if they contradict a closely held personal belief. It is just too scary to have to consider the extent of uncertainty that could creep into one’s belief system as a result of accepting even a small portion of such data. It’s best to just ignore it.

I have long given up on the close minded with regards to measurements especially here on AC. It's best to leave them as ignorant. But if you want your eyes opened, read and peruse the facts on www.data-bass.com

As to the OP's query, I'm sure it will make a dynamite sub when properly setup.

Best,
Anand.