[Danny Richie]

Not sure I'm getting the picture. Do you mean two vertical front firing drivers and one side firing?

They are on the sides of the V.

[mlundy57]

They are on the sides of the V.

So all three drivers are side firing, two are firing out toward the side walls and one is firing in towards the center of the speakers (the two inside firing drivers are firing towards each other)?

[Danny Richie]

Yes. But keep in mind that these are playing in an omni radiation pattern in those low ranges. So there really isn't a firing direction, just a facing direction.

[mlundy57]

Yes. But keep in mind that these are playing in an omni radiation pattern in those low ranges. So there really isn't a firing direction, just a facing direction.

Thanks.

How would you compare the expected performance of these vs two 12" drivers in you OB sub W frame with 1" or 1 1/2" thick framing with the Wedgies?

[Captainhemo]

Yes. But keep in mind that these are playing in an omni radiation pattern in those low ranges. So there really isn't a firing direction, just a facing direction.

Danny,  would having these cross  fairly high (clase to 200Hz) to match the Wedgies not  somewhat   reduce the omni directional aspect of the side firing drivers ?

Mike, if yo do go with the 12's,  go 1.5" .  I am surprised at how much force these drivers put  on even an OB frame,  they still really load the cabinet

-jay

[mlundy57]

Danny,  would having these cross  fairly high (clase to 200Hz) to match the Wedgies not  somewhat   reduce the omni directional aspect of the side firing drivers ?

Mike, if yo do go with the 12's,  go 1.5" .  I am surprised at how much force these drivers put  on even an OB frame,  they still really load the cabinet

-jay

Good to know, thanks Jay.  I'm leaning towards the 12's if beefing up the frame will overcome the W frame's shortcomings. While on the surface it looks like three 8's would be the same as two 12's, if I have done the math correctly, two 12's have ~ 50% more surface area than three 8's which I would think would result in improved performance.

Mike

[Captainhemo]

I wonder how hard it would be to  lay out/cut dado's for a W frame ....   If youlaid it out with a  jig and used a router it might  not be too  difficult...
I'd think the dado's would help .
Also,  double up the top & bottom panels like I did

My math comes out the same, rughly 226 "2 vs  150"2.  I thought about going with  8's as well  but  after talking with Danny  and looking at the cost difference,  decided I might as well go with the 12's.  I believe Danny  now has the FR 08's  in stock now so you could use those 

-jay

[jparkhur]

Unless you have a design plan or need for narrow. Two 12s better than three 8 s hands down.   

[Danny Richie]

No doubt about it. The 12's will play lower and hit hard in those lower ranges.

[mlundy57]

No doubt about it. The 12's will play lower and hit hard in those lower ranges.

Will beefing up the W frame overcome the issues you mentioned earlier with this design?

[Danny Richie]

Will beefing up the W frame overcome the issues you mentioned earlier with this design?

Yep.

[mlundy57]

That's it then. I'll be building my Wedgie bass sections with two 12's in a beefed up W frame. That way I'll be able to get the best bass and still end up with the Wedgie tweeter centered at 39" (ear height in my recliner).

I'll start in on these as soon as I finish the MTM and CS Encores I'm building as Christmas presents. The CS Encores are all veneered, inlaid and ready for finishing. I'm starting to apply the veneer on the MTM Encores today.

I can't wait. As great as the Wedgies are, using a single 8" non-servo driver in a ported box (-3dB @ 28Hz) for 200Hz and down leaves a lot to be desired. The Wedgies are pleading with me to give them the bass they deserve. I can't hold out much longer. The whining is really getting on my nerves   

Mike

[bdp24]

Will beefing up the W frame overcome the issues you mentioned earlier with this design?

Double the side panels and connect the left and right sides with a brace (I used birch ply) running between them. As good as an H-frame.

[Danny Richie]

Double the side panels and connect the left and right sides with a brace (I used birch ply) running between them. As good as an H-frame.

That is true.

[mlundy57]

Should the baffles be  1-1/2" thick also or just the sides, top and bottom?

[PDR]

If your going 1-1/2" wide on the sides, maybe consider sand filled.
It was the best decision I made when building my Super V.
Gives a great place to conceal the wires as well.

[mlundy57]

If your going 1-1/2" wide on the sides, maybe consider sand filled.
It was the best decision I made when building my Super V.
Gives a great place to conceal the wires as well.

That looks really good but boy does it look like a lot of work and heavy!  I want something sound but something I can move both now and in the future.

I wondered how you got the curves on your speakers, now I know.

Mike

[bdp24]

Mike, there is a thread here on AudioCircle GR detailing Lundy's entire build of the "Jukebox" Super-V's. Genius!

[mlundy57]

Mike, there is a thread here on AudioCircle GR detailing Lundy's entire build of the "Jukebox" Super-V's. Genius!

Thanks.

PDR's name is Lundy too?

MIke

[PDR]

 , nope......Perry