[zoom25]

Yeah that's the plan. Will call an electrician for this and some other stuff.

[dznutz]

^ Good upgrade. Surprised you didn't do it sooner. Hubbell outlets are very good and economical. Just to be safe, make sure a qualified electrician installs these in your house.

Why?  it takes 5 minutes per outlet to swap, just make sure you flip the correct breaker

[CanadianMaestro]

Why?  it takes 5 minutes per outlet to swap, just make sure you flip the correct breaker

Why NOT? What's the argument against having a certified electrician install and inspect?

May be more than meets the eye, esp in older homes with rotting wiring etc.

[CanadianMaestro]

This is what can happen to an outlet when there's an unknown mismatch between demand, supply, and wire material/engineering: (yes, an audio upgrade gone wrong)

http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?16083-Fire-Alarm!

[zoom25]

Tiny update that I also posted on Head-fi:

In the month that I've had it, I did notice that its sound changed in the first 2-3 days. It was initially dark sounding. After the first week, the sound has been stable. I've found that the Jitterbug in different applications and gear will make different sonic changes or little changes. For example, I used the Jitterbug in three places:

1) At the iMac's USB output when feeding to my DAC's (Dangerous Source) USB input.

2) Connected to Bryston BDP-1's USB input being fed by a Western Digital 2TB portable hard drive (5400 rpm)..it's 2 years old

3) Connected to Bryston BDP-1's USB input being fed by a 128 GB PNY Turbo flash drive.

The BDP-1 outputs to my DAC via AES to AES.


I will post more detailed notes at some point about the 3 configurations. I've currently left the Jitterbug stay in configuration #1 for a week and a half. My library is also around a 1TB so I have put the least effort in the flash drive testing. However, initially, I did feel as if the Jitterbug made a bigger difference with the flash drive and that glare, despite sounding more transparent and tighter over the WD hard drive.

I took notes during the first 2 weeks. I'll do another batch of notes when I compare them next and see how the previous notes hold up.

[Krutsch]

Tiny update that I also posted on Head-fi:

In the month that I've had it, I did notice that its sound changed in the first 2-3 days. It was initially dark sounding. After the first week, the sound has been stable. I've found that the Jitterbug in different applications and gear will make different sonic changes or little changes. For example, I used the Jitterbug in three places:

1) At the iMac's USB output when feeding to my DAC's (Dangerous Source) USB input.

2) Connected to Bryston BDP-1's USB input being fed by a Western Digital 2TB portable hard drive (5400 rpm)..it's 2 years old

3) Connected to Bryston BDP-1's USB input being fed by a 128 GB PNY Turbo flash drive.

The BDP-1 outputs to my DAC via AES to AES.


I will post more detailed notes at some point about the 3 configurations. I've currently left the Jitterbug stay in configuration #1 for a week and a half. My library is also around a 1TB so I have put the least effort in the flash drive testing. However, initially, I did feel as if the Jitterbug made a bigger difference with the flash drive and that glare, despite sounding more transparent and tighter over the WD hard drive.

I took notes during the first 2 weeks. I'll do another batch of notes when I compare them next and see how the previous notes hold up.

I will look forward to seeing your notes. I assume all of this testing is being performed "sighted"?

I am really curious if you've tested with the JitterBug in an unused port - not necessarily one of the ports being used by the flash drive. I ask because AudioQuest makes the case that the JitterBug can "clean up" noise from the USB bus, even plugged into an unused port. I am skeptical that much noise is generated by a flash drive, although it does draw *some* power, so maybe there is a benefit.

[kclark0395]

Why NOT? What's the argument against having a certified electrician install and inspect?

May be more than meets the eye, esp in older homes with rotting wiring etc.

At a minimum you must know a) size of your breaker (amperage), b) size of your wiring (if pre-existing probably sufficient for what the breaker will allow through), c) amp rating of your outlet, which must not in any case be lower than the breaker. The breaker is what limits the current, everything downstream must have at least the same rating.

[zoom25]

I will look forward to seeing your notes. I assume all of this testing is being performed "sighted"?

I am really curious if you've tested with the JitterBug in an unused port - not necessarily one of the ports being used by the flash drive. I ask because AudioQuest makes the case that the JitterBug can "clean up" noise from the USB bus, even plugged into an unused port. I am skeptical that much noise is generated by a flash drive, although it does draw *some* power, so maybe there is a benefit.

Yeah this has been all sighted. It's quite hard to setup blind tests with the Jitterbug, especially when used with the BDP-1. On the computer, you have to make sure that the USB port is the same one each time you plug and unplug. Nothing else plugged in to other ports. All unnecessary apps closed. Wifi off. Audirvana running full System Optimization.

On the BDP-1, if you unplug and plug back in, the music and directory stops working and with a huge library it take time to reset it. The work around I found was to actually stop MPD and start Roon Ready. During that time you can unplug and plug drives back in and then restart MPD and the directory will still be there. It's the fastest method I've found so far.

All of these things isn't something a family member can easily help me out with. With cables and toggling buttons for comparing inputs, that's a lot easier than dealing with Macs and BDP-1 and MPD and Manic Moose.

I have gone and back and forth on the flash drive vs hard drive thing way before I knew of the Jitterbug and other noise stuff. It was always a toss up because of the trade-offs that I've noticed all along. So I don't think it's some bias I developed in anticipation of the Jitterbug and other knowledge.

The two Jitterbugs is also interesting, and I might give that a go if/when I get another piece. Most likely, I'll be using one with iMac and another with drives. Two is the limit on a bus drive. I'm not sure of BDP-1's USB schematics and how many and where I can put at a time.

Although, regarding the location of the flash and hard drives on BDP-1, I didn't find any differences in sound quality if a flash drive is plugged in the back or front. I plug the WD Drive in the rear bottom location. The flash drives typically go at the front. Another place where I didn't find a difference is if both flash drives and hard drives are plugged in at the same time or only one at a time. No difference if say the hard drive is plugged in the bottom rear permanently, and then I move the flash drive to either the 2 front ports or the rear top. So bottom line for me was no difference in sound with respect to location.

If I had to make a guess on which configurations would be the easiest and which would be the toughest to pick up in a blind test, I would say that configuration #1 with the iMac would be the easiest. The hardest would be the 2 TB WD portable hard drive. Flash drive in the middle.

[zoom25]

I have a question.

Today I changed three stock outlets that I use for audio with the Hubbell 5262 CRYO. I actually bought 4 and have one in reserve.

In this upstairs room, the breaker for this room is on a split circuit that powers 6 outlets that are close to each other. I know the order of the circuit and the actual 3 that I use for audio are the last three in order. It looks like this in proper order with the devices listed for each outlet:

1) Sony dock (on 24/7): https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/01/electronics/detail-page-2/B002OB4BK8-1.jpg

2) Costco Fan that very frequently gets used (only in summer) https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/9e/c6/97/9ec6975cc98498e7b1d6bb5b621dc264.jpg

3) Nothing plugged in because it's behind a bed.

4) Audio gear (Amp + Linear power supply for DAC)

5) Audio gear

6) Audio gear


In terms of power usage, the first 3 outlets use next to nothing, however they still have stock outlets. Will it make a difference in sound if I also upgrade them (first three) to the Hubbell? Are the first three limiting in any way?

Sound Impressions so far:

This is a cryo-treated outlet, but I didn't opt for the burn-in extra. So far I do think that there is less "glare/edge" which is noticeable in treble. It's a similar experience to getting better cables when they are new. Similarly, while I can tell that there is less glare, I also feel as if the sound is somewhat "restricted" and not fully opened up where the sound is dynamic from top to bottom. Almost like a veil that's holding it back. Despite that, I can tell it sounds 'musical/groovy' or less 'disjointed' and a bit warmer in the mids.

Future and Suggestions?

I find my interconnects (Grimm TPR), speaker cables (Amphion), digital cables (Grimm TPR), transport (BDP-1), amps (Amphion), speakers (Amphion), DA w/LPS (DM Source) are at a decent level. I might upgrade the DA in the next year or two, but it's by no means low end or even mid-fi. Everything is at a point where further improvements is pushing the envelope from 90%+ towards 100%...whatever that may be.

The only thing that I can think of as 'low-end' are the power cables. I have been using the stock included power cables with all my gear. I have no idea where to start and if there are cables that are more suited for analog vs. digital gear or shielded vs. unshielded. Any suggestions are welcome. I try my best to find stuff that performs quite well for its price and can be backed by science but also earn the love from their users...very much like the Grimm TPR.

Aside from power cables, I might later on look towards something Bryston BIT 15/20. Also, room treatment is a whole another thing. Anything I missed? 

[Tympani]

I have found the DH Labs SilverSonic power cables excellent for both digital and analog components, providing substantial improvement over the stock computer-grade OEM cables. I use them in my second system (Cambridge Audio) but also tried them on my BDA-3 and BDP-2. Fuller, more resonant bass, wonderful soundstage, great "boogie" and pace. At $250 they won't break the bank. DH labs consistently offers great value. break them in for a minimum 3-4 days.

I use upper-end HiDiamond cables for my main gear (power, IC, speaker, AES). The DH labs come quite close at a fraction of the cost.

http://www.silversonic.com/docs/products/PowerPlus.html

Once you upgrade the Power Cables, a fuse upgrade will be very audible.

[zoom25]

I have found the DH Labs SilverSonic power cables excellent for both digital and analog components, providing substantial improvement over the stock computer-grade OEM cables. I use them in my second system (Cambridge Audio) but also tried them on my BDA-3 and BDP-2. Fuller, more resonant bass, wonderful soundstage, great "boogie" and pace. At $250 they won't break the bank. DH labs consistently offers great value. break them in for a minimum 3-4 days.

I use upper-end HiDiamond cables for my main gear (power, IC, speaker, AES). The DH labs come quite close at a fraction of the cost.

http://www.silversonic.com/docs/products/PowerPlus.html

Once you upgrade the Power Cables, a fuse upgrade will be very audible.

I checked out their cables and prices. I need at least 3 cables, probably 4-5 when I add more components. That's like $1500 CAD in cables. 
I did pay $500 for my speaker cables but that was because I knew for a fact that the cable was picked out specifically by the manufacturer and used inside the gear as well for synergy. So I am not against it in the long run.

I did notice that they sell all their cables in bulk for much cheaper. The Power Plus is at $8 per foot and more digestible. I might consider DIY options if the results will be similar. Any thoughts? Have you done DIY with their cables?

I have read about this fuse thing a couple of times, still not sure which ones are recommended? I'll probably be doing the PCs first as you suggested.

[zoom25]

Update on the outlet:

It's sounding better than yesterday. It might be simply letting the gear warm up again, as I leave them on 24/7. There is definitely less glare than before in the treble, which is much appreciated on the HD 800 in comparison to Amphions. There's a bit more to it than that, but I'll keep that to myself for now and see how things progress over time. Well worth the price.

[werd]

This will help answer your question about the USB drives. According to the manual the back two are more powerful.

[werd]

This is what can happen to an outlet when there's an unknown mismatch between demand, supply, and wire material/engineering: (yes, an audio upgrade gone wrong)

http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?16083-Fire-Alarm!

I dont know about that. To me, it looks like a short with an improperly fastened wire came lose. Missing one wire that was not cut. Can't see the ground so i cant tell if it was a hot.

[zoom25]

This will help answer your question about the USB drives. According to the manual the back two are more powerful.

Yeah I came across that awhile back when I read the manual. I didn't further investigate it, but in my experience with the unit, I couldn't find any difference between any of the ports.

[zoom25]

1 Week update on the Hubbell outlet:

I've had all my gear running ON 24/7 this entire time (as usual).

I'm still enjoying the lack of glare. The mid range is finally starting to open up, although I don't think the bass is fully there yet 100%. More dynamics and punch since day one. The lack of treble glare is still the best attribute though. Slowly, the air up top is returning.

To put it in context, I couldn't touch the stock HD 800 for more than a few minutes at max. I was physically cringing with treble outbursts where I would have to take them off and just walk out of the room. Even with Sonarworks at 70-100%, I was getting fatigued and not enjoying it. Now, I'm using stock without problems. If that doesn't get the message across...

[zoom25]

1.5 month Update:

Hubbell outlets are still performing very solidly. No fatigue.

I finally got around to trying the Jitterbug away from the computer and into the USB input of the BDP-1. As before, I'm still using the WD portable hard drives.

I've already gotten used to how Jitterbug sounds with USB output on computer (iMac). At first the experience felt off, but quickly got used to it and appreciated the change. It was a similar experience this time with using it on BDP-1. Felt a bit weird initially when I connected it to the WD drive. I noticed that I kept wanting to turn up the volume, which in itself could be an indication for lack of noise. Maybe.

After an hour, I finally got used to it and I have to say that is quite engaging and draws you in more with a less shouty sound. It's also slightly more smoother sounding across the band.

I think it's time to get the 2nd Jitterbug.

[zoom25]

I'm noticing less grain as well. Although, there wasn't much to complain about previously.

However, the added depth in soundstage and the rendering of ambience is something else. At first, you may think it is less detailed because there is less there, but when you get used to it, it's actually more easy to follow. Less is more.

I highly advise for people wanting to try this to make sure to give a decent amount of time listening to get used to it.

[CanadianMaestro]

Interesting. The BDP-1 generates very little jitter (< 20ps from the specs). And since it has no analog output, zero THD by defn.

So then what is Jitterbug doing to improve the performance? Is it really reducing jitter from the pocket drive into the BDP?
 

[zoom25]

When you're connecting the Jitterbug to say the iMac's USB output going to DA's USB input, maybe you can make a case for jitter and noise.

In the case for hard drive connecting to BDP-1's USB input, I don't even think jitter comes into play? It could be purely noise instead? Like why flash drives sound different than hard drives.

I don't fully get it either. I just listen. A lot. Then come to my conclusion. Wish I had the gear to measure it, knew how to work it properly, and most importantly knew what and how to look for the right things for myself.