[baniels]

There are other complications that would remain even if I was doing the profile cuts with the correctly-angled bit.

A table saw, with the blade and fence set up once for a whole sheet's worth of baffles or parts will be more efficient than anything I think.

There is a company in Houston that grinds carbide endmills for our shop.  They can do angles.  Would this work?

[jcotner]

Oh okay. Maybe I need to get Ben a new table saw.....

Well I know of a Unisaw that can probably be had for a low price.
North side of Chicago.
A friend of mine and the wife's who got it with some other machines
and has absolutely no need for it.

[baniels]

I'll probably be looking for more mobility and a smaller footprint - also those are over $3K new. I'm not sure I have room on my breaker for another 220 (one for the dust collector), but maybe.

The Ridgid R4512 looks like a popular option. Older reviews talk of a problem with the blade angle changing with the height adjustment, but it seems that has been corrected.

That said, I'm only beginning to think about this.

Well I know of a Unisaw that can probably be had for a low price.
North side of Chicago.
A friend of mine and the wife's who got it with some other machines
and has absolutely no need for it.

[mlundy57]

Guys,

In the meantime, here's a video of the waveguide being machined. http://youtu.be/BwR9w5GY9bc

I appreciate all the input above. A table saw is what I need, and this is a good chamber of motivation for that end. The Incra fence on my router table is great, but it doesn't absorb the shortcomings of this approach. Too many variables between material thickness, split-fence offsets, etc.

Danny and I are discussing some options on how this can roll out... The guys who just want baffle will be the easiest to serve. These are the dimensions I'm working with right now [see below], but with a table saw this could go down to a simple 100 degrees if there's a difference in performance and I'm not limited by the available chamfer bits.

If I were to sell baffles with a 90 degree edge, how much oversize would you want on the width?

Ben

I'd want an extra inch or so on each side

Mike

[ebag4]

Guys,

In the meantime, here's a video of the waveguide being machined. http://youtu.be/BwR9w5GY9bc

I appreciate all the input above. A table saw is what I need, and this is a good chamber of motivation for that end. The Incra fence on my router table is great, but it doesn't absorb the shortcomings of this approach. Too many variables between material thickness, split-fence offsets, etc.

Danny and I are discussing some options on how this can roll out... The guys who just want baffle will be the easiest to serve. These are the dimensions I'm working with right now [see below], but with a table saw this could go down to a simple 100 degrees if there's a difference in performance and I'm not limited by the available chamfer bits.

If I were to sell baffles with a 90 degree edge, how much oversize would you want on the width?

I have never tried to put a roundover on anything other than a 90 degree angle, how would that work out? 

Seems to me since the baffle is only 3/4" thick and we are adding a roundover we would be better off with you cutting the baffle to size (90 degree angles) and rounding over on the CNC.  There will be a little bit of the side left at 90 degrees but not much, especially if you rounded over with a 1/2" bit, like this:


This is a 4.75" wide baffle with 1/2" roundovers, sides at 100 degrees.


Best,
Ed

[Keithh]

I use a dado and rabbet type joint on angles with roundovers quite often.
Easy to do and clamps fine with just masking tape.
Leave the baffle edge square, put the roundover on.
Tilt the angle of the dado blade to the needed angle.
Through trial and error on a scrap piece, adjust the depth of cut just deep enough into the radius so that the joint has a nice seamless transition from radius to straight.
Then cut the inner deeper dado.
Return the saw blade angle to 90 degrees and cut the dado on the wings to fit.
The result will look just like you ran a roundover on a 90 degree edge.
And I doubt anyone with even minimal woodworking skills would have trouble assembling with just tape.

[mlundy57]

I would agree with Ed.

Seems like that would be easier all around. Then you wouldn't have to have to have more than one baffle design.

Mike

[ebag4]

I use a dado and rabbet type joint on angles with roundovers quite often.
Easy to do and clamps fine with just masking tape.
Leave the baffle edge square, put the roundover on.
Tilt the angle of the dado blade to the needed angle.
Through trial and error on a scrap piece, adjust the depth of cut just deep enough into the radius so that the joint has a nice seamless transition from radius to straight.
Then cut the inner deeper dado.
Return the saw blade angle to 90 degrees and cut the dado on the wings to fit.
The result will look just like you ran a roundover on a 90 degree edge.
And I doubt anyone with even minimal woodworking skills would have trouble assembling with just tape.

Keith, thanks for the clear explanation, I can see that working.

Danny/Ben, are we making any progress?  Do we have any idea when this might be available for purchase?

Thanks,
Ed

[baniels]

Yes, making progress. Table saw assembled and setup over the last few evenings.

[ebag4]

Nice looking saw Ben.  Were the 100 degree angles on the side pieces all that were left to be completed?

[mlundy57]

Yes, making progress. Table saw assembled and setup over the last few evenings.

Nice saw. I have the contractor version that collapses and rolls around. I don't have room to set my saws up in the garage. I have to roll everything out into the driveway to do much cutting.

[baniels]

Some good progress this weekend. I'm about to cut the 1/2" parts for the opposite side. I should have these out to Danny tomorrow.



The brace will obviously not go here, but this shows how it fits.




The short wings and brace will have some roundovers on them.

[ebag4]

Nice job, looking good Ben 

[baniels]

Thanks, Ed.

I must say, having a table saw in my shop fills a deep and aged void in my soul. This model is quite nice for the money. For under $600 with tax, it's hard to beat. The stamped wings are a little funky, but I'll probably replace them with some laminated MDF or BB, and add a second router table point to the right of the blade. I use the flush trim bit on a daily basis, and often various roundovers and the occasional rabbet bit. It equates to a lot of change-outs. It will be nice to have a dedicated spot for flush trim only.

All the angled cuts in this design are the same (100°), so I only have to get it right once and lock it in.

This push shoe was the hero of the day. I was scratching my head about how to survive the thin miter rip of the short wings. I knew using the supplied stick was asking for trouble.  I copied someone else's design for this...

[mlundy57]

Ben,

Looking good.

Mike

[ebag4]

Ben, do the baffle sides get a round over?

[baniels]

Ed,

They can to an extent. I have a 1/2" radius roundover that will go most of the way, but it stops a little short, due to the bearing riding on a non-90° edge. It transitions nicely on the front face of the baffle, but stops a little abruptly on the beveled edge. I'm sure one could smooth this out with a touch of sanding.

Ben, do the baffle sides get a round over?

[ebag4]

It transitions nicely on the front face of the baffle, but stops a little abruptly on the beveled edge. I'm sure one could smooth this out with a touch of sanding.

Agreed, thanks.

[mlundy57]

Trying to figure out how I'm going to veneer these 

Mike

[ebag4]

Trying to figure out how I'm going to veneer these 

Mike

That wave guide is going to make veneering very tough.  I don't know if you could use a softener to get the veneer compliant enough to make that work or not.  Even if you did, the grain patterns would be incredibly tough to get to match.  Maybe a veneering pro will offer up some ideas.