VMPS SuperTower/R Question

baco99 · « **Reply #40 on:** 30 Jun 2016, 11:25 am »

Yes, I think what happened was someone bought them, and then later on tried to upgrade them according to the marketing pamphlet.

Serial numbers are 9049 and 9050.

baco99 · « **Reply #41 on:** 30 Jun 2016, 01:28 pm »

Quote from: ZAKski288 on 30 Jun 2016, 03:25 am

Also the white damping material on the cabinet, I don't think is a factory job, because the drivers and crossovers would not have been there then the coating was applied.

Hello Ed, I think your right about the red and black wire on the switch, they need to be switched around, or better yet take the switch out. Zak

ZAK - If I take the switch out, I would need to add leads outside the cabinet for bi-amp operation. The switch was part of the original circuit, as was the fuse according to the diagram on the back of the speaker.

ST86 · « **Reply #42 on:** 30 Jun 2016, 02:04 pm »

You don't need external leads. You can replace the switch with two pairs of terminals mounted to the terminal cup, connected by jumpers for single amp operation. For biamping remove the jumpers and connect each amp to each pair of terminals. Internal wiring would have woofers and mids connected to one pair of terminals, domes, and other two tweeters connected to other pair of terminals.

Ed

baco99 · « **Reply #43 on:** 30 Jun 2016, 02:10 pm »

Quote from: ST86 on 30 Jun 2016, 02:04 pm

You don't need external leads. You can replace the switch with two pairs of terminals mounted to the terminal cup, connected by jumpers for single amp operation. For biamping remove the jumpers and connect each amp to each pair of terminals. Internal wiring would have woofers and mids connected to one pair of terminals, domes, and other two tweeters connected to other pair of terminals.

Ed

See image of the rear label which shows the switch for biamp/normal operation (which does work, actually), and the 2A protection fuse. I'd prefer to keep this original.

ST86 · « **Reply #44 on:** 30 Jun 2016, 02:24 pm »

Well, this is a first. I've never seen a original Supertower with a fuse.

baco99 · « **Reply #45 on:** 30 Jun 2016, 03:42 pm »

Quote from: ZAKski288 on 29 Jun 2016, 11:32 pm

baco99
"The midrange cap measured at 5.4 uf, not the prescribed 49 to 54.5 uf in the schematic."

My midrange caps measure 5.59uf and the tweeters caps measure 1.43uf .

My mid caps measure 5.53 and 5.54, respectively.
The tweeter caps measure 1.52 and 1.52.
The super tweeter Wondercaps are running .89 and .88

I plan to leave the original values that are here unless someone recommends otherwise

baco99 · « **Reply #46 on:** 30 Jun 2016, 05:54 pm »

Problem solved!

That 25 ohm resistor was the key to the whole puzzle. Wow! What a difference!

baco99 · « **Reply #47 on:** 30 Jun 2016, 07:34 pm »

One more note, I think I know why the previous owner wired one side the wrong way. The woofers have their poles on opposite sides. In other words, on one 15" woofer, the (+) terminal is on the right. One the other 15" woofer the (+) terminal is on the left. Same with the 12". I've seen this with EPI speakers before, but never in a sequence like this. The terminals are color coded, but the PO must have just assumed that the right and left terminals were the same, or never bothered to verify.

Waiting for some glue to dry and then we are off and running!