Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?

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jtwrace

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Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« on: 22 Jan 2015, 12:18 am »
Are these the parts and quantities required to build a Balanced Tortuga?  I would not want SE inputs or outputs.  Of course, enclosure, connectors, wire and remote are needed. 


 

tortugaranger

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Re: Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« Reply #1 on: 22 Jan 2015, 02:55 am »
In the same order.

Display Module - both master/slave - $98 (highly recommended - you only need 1 set of these, not 2)

USB Port & Cable - $30 (recommended - you'll need 2 of these, 1 for each board)

PS12.5 Power Supply - $99 (optional, you can use any 12 VDC supply source including a wall-wart etc. )

LDR3x.V2.1 (must have - 2 boards) - $398

LDR Modules (optional - V2.1 comes with essential 4) - $0

Encoder Module (highly recommended) - $23

IO3 Relay Board (highly recommended - 2 - need one for each board) - $118


Are these the parts and quantities required to build a Balanced Tortuga?  I would not want SE inputs or outputs.  Of course, enclosure, connectors, wire and remote are needed. 


 
« Last Edit: 25 Jan 2015, 05:35 pm by tortugaranger »

justubes

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Re: Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« Reply #2 on: 24 Jan 2015, 08:19 am »
Hi,

For the usb port and cable,

1)is it just for upgrading?

2) For balanced boards, can 1 cable for any firmware upgrades and do each board at a time  as i am no mount the usb socket in my preamp?

3)I have similar cable from a old desktop, can i use this?

4)When tentative shipping dates?

Thanks


tortugaranger

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Re: Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« Reply #3 on: 24 Jan 2015, 03:03 pm »
Quote
For the usb port and cable,

1)is it just for upgrading?

Yes, the sole purpose of the USB port and any optional cable is to upload firmware updates.

Quote
2) For balanced boards, can 1 cable for any firmware upgrades and do each board at a time  as i am no mount the usb socket in my preamp?

Yes, you only really need one if you're ok with manually switching over to each board. The main idea behind the cables (and dual cables for balanced) is to provided panel mounted usb port(s) for those who wish to fully enclose their boards and not have to open the enclosure for firmware updates.

Quote
3)I have similar cable from a old desktop, can i use this?

Yes, but. The USB header on the V2.1 board is a 5 pin header. The USB cable we provide has one end that fits that 5 pin header. You may have to modify/adapt any existing cable but yes, it's doable.

Quote
4)When tentative shipping dates?

We are shipping now as fast as we can.

justubes

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Re: Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« Reply #4 on: 24 Jan 2015, 03:38 pm »
Thanks, but how is the 5 wire connected? The 4 other wires are standard pin configuration.

tortugaranger

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Re: Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« Reply #5 on: 24 Jan 2015, 04:09 pm »
Thanks, but how is the 5 wire connected? The 4 other wires are standard pin configuration.

V2 board:  Looking at the board/header the left most pin is the 5th pin which is the ground. The 4th pin next to it is not connected on most boards but may be connected to the 5th pin via a solder bridge on some boards. A quick inspection will confirm.

V2.1 board: Both the 5th and 4th pins are ground.

justubes

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Re: Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« Reply #6 on: 24 Jan 2015, 05:06 pm »
Thanks, clear now.

Do the new quad chips allowing higher voltage supply improve sonic or causes change to the sonic. Its psu related so there ought to be some differences, negligible or should we experiment?

tortugaranger

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Re: Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« Reply #7 on: 24 Jan 2015, 07:38 pm »
Thanks, clear now.

Do the new quad chips allowing higher voltage supply improve sonic or causes change to the sonic. Its psu related so there ought to be some differences, negligible or should we experiment?

In my view I can't see how a higher voltage quad op amp in the auto-cal circuit can possibly change the sonics except possibly indirectly insofar as it might further improve the accuracy (i.e. channel balance precision) of the auto-cal. There's no doubt that the auto-cal cycle ran faster with these high end op amps which I attribute to their precision and high PSRR (low noise). But the closure error criteria in the firmware is the same with or without these better op amps so results shouldn't be different. One test I didn't try it how much tighter I could make the closure criteria but that's a down-the-road item to look into. For now I recommend the op amp upgrade only if your supply voltage is an issue. 

NachoTime

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Re: Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« Reply #8 on: 25 Jan 2015, 04:28 pm »
Hello Morten,

I asked the same question a few weeks back and you recommended 2x IO3 modules to handle the multiple inputs/outputs.  Wouldn't that apply here as well?

I'm also curious if you could weigh-in on the approximate length, gauge and type of hook-up wire needed.

Gracias!

In the same order.

Display Module - both master/slave - $98 (highly recommended - you only need 1 set of these, not 2)

USB Port & Cable - $30 (recommended - you'll need 2 of these, 1 for each board)

PS12.5 Power Supply - $99 (optional, you can use any 12 VDC supply source including a wall-wart etc. )

LDR3x.V2.1 (must have - 2 boards) - $398

LDR Modules (optional - V2.1 comes with essential 4) - $0

Encoder Module (highly recommended) - $23

IO3 Relay Board (highly recommended) - $59

tortugaranger

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Re: Parts To Build Balanced Tortuga?
« Reply #9 on: 25 Jan 2015, 05:34 pm »
Hello Morten,

I asked the same question a few weeks back and you recommended 2x IO3 modules to handle the multiple inputs/outputs.  Wouldn't that apply here as well?

I'm also curious if you could weigh-in on the approximate length, gauge and type of hook-up wire needed.

Gracias!

Ah, you are correct. An IO3 is needed for each board in a balanced configuration with multiple inputs. I will amend the earlier post accordingly. Thanks.

The best wire I know of is the Neotech UP-OCC (ultra pure ono continuous cast) with teflon insulation. I use 26 gauge solid of both the copper and silver for those who opt for it. Otherwise I use  a mil-spec quality silver coated copper stranded with teflon coating. Length needed will vary with your project of course but as with all things audio, the less distance between 2 connection points the better.