[mlundy57]

New project. A pair of X-CS Encore cabinets which will be used as main speakers. These are being built out of Baltic Birch, all edges rounded over and finished with DuraTex.

First step is completed, all the parts are cut out.




The next task will be machining the driver openings and the braces.

Mike

[Folsom]

Are these for you?

[mlundy57]

Jeremy,

No they are for a client. I have them built, machined, filled and sanded. I just need to cut the recess in the tweeter opening for the terminal connections then I'll be ready to start applying the DuraTex. That will be this evening. I'll post pictures this weekend.

Mike

[cody69]

Mike

given the cabs will be coated with Duratex, what was the determining factor that drove for the usage of BB vs MDF?

[mlundy57]

Mike

given the cabs will be coated with Duratex, what was the determining factor that drove for the usage of BB vs MDF?

It is what the client wanted.

Even if that had not been the case, I'm not a fan of just finishing the Baltic Birch plywood. There are always some imperfections in the veneer that have been patched; it inevitably gets dings, dents, scratches, etc both before I get it then while working with it; then the brad nails I use to keep things lined up while the glue dries need to be set. This all results in the need for wood filler which never matches the surrounding grain pattern.

For the first set of speakers I built (X-LS & X-CS Encores), I used Baltic Birch which I stained Red Mahogany.  While some people like the look of the Baltic Birch, including the striped ends, I'm not one of them.

Mike

Mike

[jparkhur]

I really like Russian BB and Dura Tech, but... Stain these please....  tell him you can not cover them in black goooooo

BB stained

BB Stained

Side is Dura Tech

[Wayne1]

Stain these please....  tell him you can not cover them in black goooooo

But I LIKE black goo 

As Mike explained, I specified that the cabinets he is building for me were to be made from BB and covered in DuraTex.

The BB is for it's particular resonant abilities. MDF is very dead but BB does vibrate a small amount. Some people, including myself, feel this resonance gives music played through BB cabinets more "liveliness" It is entirely subjective.

The Black Goo, as jparkhur calls it, was selected because untreated wood rapidly dries out up here on the high plains of Colorado. I have owned many wood veneered and solid wood speakers and all ended up needing lots of maintenance or they would crack or peel. For this set of cabinets, I wanted the pair to be very easy to take care of.

It does happen to be my money that is paying for the cabinets and it will be in my house. So it is only my aesthetic judgement that counts.   

[jparkhur]

All those are fair statements..   I hope you like them...

[Danny Richie]

The BB is for it's particular resonant abilities. MDF is very dead but BB does vibrate a small amount. Some people, including myself, feel this resonance gives music played through BB cabinets more "liveliness" It is entirely subjective.

I designed a product to solve that problem. Lining the cabinets with No Rez with take away those resonances and give you a more accurate presentation.

[Captainhemo]

The BB is for it's particular resonant abilities. MDF is very dead but BB does vibrate a small amount. Some people, including myself, feel this resonance gives music played through BB cabinets more "liveliness" It is entirely subjective.

I designed a product to solve that problem. Lining the cabinets with No Rez with take away those resonances and give you a more accurate presentation.

If I'm reading his post right, I think wayne1  is  wanting the resonance from the BB

jay

[Wayne1]

The cabinets that Mike is building for me are made from BB AND will have No Rez installed.

[mlundy57]

The cabinets that Mike is building for me are made from BB AND will have No Rez installed.

The NoRez is already installed. They are almost finished. I have been having a little difficulty getting the desired finish for the DuraTex. Normally DuraTex is applied with enough texture that seams don't don't need any special prep to keep them from showing. However, I am rolling the texture much flatter than normal and this has been causing some issues with seams showing




I decided to treat it similar to paint and sand between coats. I used 320grit to sand off the high points and flatten out around the seams. This appears to be working. No pics yet though because I'm not done.

Mike

[Mr. Oczka]

I like light pattern look.  What type of roller are you using and is there any special technique you are using to get the light texture?

thanks,

tom.

[ebag4]

+1, I really like that texture as well.

Best,
Ed

[Danny Richie]

If you let it dry just a little and keep going over it with the roller very lightly then you can get a very lightly textured pattern.

I also recently did the same but instead of re-hitting it with the roller I patted down with a wadded up plastic bag. It looks almost like leather. 

[mlundy57]

If you let it dry just a little and keep going over it with the roller very lightly then you can get a very lightly textured pattern.

I also recently did the same but instead of re-hitting it with the roller I patted down with a wadded up plastic bag. It looks almost like leather.

That's about what I've been doing, lightly rolling over it about four times in different directions and when rolling over an edge, not stopping just over the edge but continuing down the adjacent side, pulling the roller away at different places. Then I smooth out that adjacent side.

Once the DuraTex has dried I move on to the next side. I lightly sand the side I'm getting ready to coat with 320 grit to make sure I don't have any high spots or ridges, then roll on the DuraTex with the sponge roller that comes with the kit. Once the side is coated I repeat the rolling down process.

Let dry then repeat on another side.

The texture is muted but still rough to the touch, not smooth like leather.

[mlundy57]

I finally got a finish that looks good with a low texture










Now to let them cure for a few days. By the end of this week they'll be ready to head to Wayne's house

Mike

[cody69]

The look great Mike... the textured finish came out really nice.

BTW, looks like holes in the back for 2 pair of tube connectors -- what's the plans there?

[ebag4]

The look great Mike... the textured finish came out really nice

Agreed, those came out fantastic Mike.

Best,
Ed

[Wayne1]

The look great Mike... the textured finish came out really nice.

BTW, looks like holes in the back for 2 pair of tube connectors -- what's the plans there?

I also agree that they look great. Thanks Mike!

The woofers and tweeter will have separate wiring going out to the two pair of tube connectors.

There will be separate boards holding the crossover components for each section.

I have had outboard crossovers in a couple of my earlier speakers and did prefer the way they sounded over having the components internal.

This will also allow me to try out different caps, coils and resistors very easily to see if I prefer the sound of one over another.

If I ever decide to try active bi-amping, the dual speaker connections will make that very easy.

The crossovers will start out with all Sonicaps, Alpha foil coils and Mills resistors.

I do have a fair amount of various brands of small value caps I can try out for bypass.